Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:01 AM - Re: Re: While on the thread of fuel tanks. (flyv35b)
2. 11:50 AM - Re: Re: While on the thread of fuel tanks. (Charles Adams)
3. 09:06 PM - Re: While on the thread of fuel tanks. (ThomasTholmes512@aol.com)
4. 10:27 PM - Two Part Epoxy Primer in a can? (Steven Jackson)
5. 10:28 PM - Cowling Update 6.9 (Aucountry@aol.com)
6. 10:28 PM - Prop shop in So Cal (Steven Jackson)
7. 10:55 PM - Re: Prop shop in So Cal (Aucountry@aol.com)
8. 10:59 PM - Re: Two Part Epoxy Primer in a can? (Aucountry@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: While on the thread of fuel tanks. |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
You probably are right. I just thought I remembered Gene saying that you
had to fill the aux tank through the standard fill neck and that they were
interconnected. How are the DMA tanks connected to each other? You cannot
fill one without the other, right? Blackmans have a electric pump in each
wingtip and you have to transfer fuel from the aux to the mains.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Adams" <cradams2@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Re: TeamGrumman-List: While on the thread of fuel tanks.
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Charles Adams
<cradams2@adelphia.net>
>
> Sorry Cliff,
>
> I have the DMA tanks and have installed them. There is a seperate cap for
each tank.
> In the Blackman install I don't recall seeing more than one cap per side
on his installations. I remarked that it was not Blackmans install because
it was done in Madera. Ken is the only one who does his install.
>
> Charlie
> >
> > From: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
> > Date: 2003/08/25 Mon PM 02:34:26 PDT
> > To: <teamgrumman-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Re: TeamGrumman-List: While on the thread of fuel tanks.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: While on the thread of fuel tanks. |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Charles Adams <cradams2@adelphia.net>
DMA tanks have a filler for each aux tank. So you have 4 caps, 4 necks etc. The
main tank and aux tank are plumbed together in a T fitting where the original
fitting enters the cabin area. You end up with 3 fuel drains per side.One main(as
before), aux low point and T-fitting. You can fill each tank as necessary.
I usually fill the aux tank first then the main because filling the main will
leach over to the aux until both a equal or the aux is full. A totalizer is
a good thing to have to keep track of usage.
Charlie Adams
>
> From: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
> Date: 2003/08/25 Mon PM 09:15:29 PDT
> To: <teamgrumman-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Re: TeamGrumman-List: While on the thread of fuel tanks.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: While on the thread of fuel tanks. |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: ThomasTholmes512@aol.com
Charlie,
I found the 337 paper work. You are correct, it is on a 337 from Sr. Lewis
in Cucamonga. One filler neck ganged to both tanks and T'd off the main tank
at the wing root. I'm thinking about a filler spout to add to the fuel nozzle
so that I can reach the aux tank filler neck individually.
Tom
Message 4
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| Subject: | Two Part Epoxy Primer in a can? |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
TG,
This may be a dumb question seeing how its called "two part" primer, but is
there such a thing as a two-part epoxy primer in a spray can. I went to the
Randolph Finishes website and checked Spruce and I can't find it at either.
My problem is this, with the engine off, I'm planning on redoing the
firewall, engine mount, etc. and am looking for recommendations for
finishes. There is not a paint shop at my field, nor is there anyone with
the gear to shoot paint, so I'm limited to doing this with what's available.
David Fletcher recommended the epoxy primer and enamel paint for the engine
mount, or Rustoleum and enamel in a spray can if the epoxy primer can't
work. Also, should I just go with Zinc Chromate for the fire wall or the
same epoxy primer? I have the aluminumized steel firewall in my plane. If
the stuff is available, I think I can do a pretty good job with spraying it
myself, but I need to figure out the best way to go on paint products. My
A&P said polyurethane paint is the most durable--just fishing for ideas.
Second, an update on the overhaul. During teardown, there were a couple of
relatively major parts deficiencies that were discovered. 1st, the
crankshaft oil seal was missing (which I'm told probably contributed to all
my oil leaks). 2nd, the oil cooler bypass spring and plunger was missing
from under the plug (I alluded to this last week in another email with vague
parts references). There were lesser errors in incorrect hardware use
connecting the case halves (lots of external teeth lock washers vice the
internal teeth called for). As for damage--it broke down like this: the
intake valve key was smashed flat (rivet style) on the end of the intake
valve of the #4 cylinder, with extensive spalling on both #4 cam followers
with resulting cam lobe damage. The cam is shot as a result. There was
minor fretting of the case halves, but no abnormal wear to any of the crank
bearings, although the front journal of the crank has some wear that is
minutely hour glass shaped. And, lastly, as stated before, all the cylinder
base nuts were severely under torqued, with two broken cyl base studs, held
down by internal hex base nuts not called for by the parts manual.
Although I have yet been able to locate the previous overhauler on this
engine, in the event that I do find him, is there any sort of punitive
action the FAA can take regarding this kind of fly-by-night engine building?
I know I can't recoup anything from this guy, but maybe the FAA can stop him
from doing this to another engine?
Thanks,
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cowling Update 6.9 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
The first phase of cowling development is complete. I am pretty happy with
all but one small area on the left inlet. The next step is to examine the
effect on drag different exit ramp configurations. Sadly, I have to give back
the Tiger being used for research. So, if you know of anyone who wants to
donate a Tiger for a few months ( a year??? ). I suppose I could use a Cheetah
as well. That would be a good bit of research.
I have many many pics of dye (oil) flow testing (this testing allows
visualization of the airflow paterns on the surface of the part being investigated)
on
both my cowling and a stock Tiger cowling. The differences are pretty
dramatic. I hope I can (soon) get these pictures all together and on the net
to
show everyone.
So, any Tiger Cheetah owners willing to donate their planes?????
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Message 6
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| Subject: | Prop shop in So Cal |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Gary,
Can you recommend a prop shop in the L.A. area for a prop overhaul?
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Prop shop in So Cal |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 08/26/03 10:34:06 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> Gary,
>
> Can you recommend a prop shop in the L.A. area for a prop overhaul?
>
> Steven Jackson
> N1434R
> L22
> Yucca Valley, CA
>
I get all my props overhauled or inspected at Johnson Propeller in
Bakersfield. Good guys. Ask for Cliff Jr and tell him I recommended them.
They are
at Minter Field.
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Two Part Epoxy Primer in a can? |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 08/26/03 10:31:42 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> This may be a dumb question seeing how its called "two part" primer, but is
> there such a thing as a two-part epoxy primer in a spray can.=A0 I went to the
> Randolph Finishes website and checked Spruce and I can't find it at either.
> My problem is this, with the engine off, I'm planning on redoing the
> firewall, engine mount, etc. and am looking for recommendations for
> finishes.=A0 There is not a paint shop at my field, nor is there anyone with
> the gear to shoot paint, so I'm limited to doing this with what's available.
> David Fletcher recommended the epoxy primer and enamel paint for the engine
> mount, or Rustoleum and enamel in a spray can if the epoxy primer can't
> work.=A0
>
Steve, did you not get the posting on recommendations for engine mount and
firewall restoration? Save yourslef the agrivation, time and cost and have the
engine mount bead blasted and powder coated. You'll be glad you did. It
will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $100 total. You can't do that
yourself for less. (and have it last to the next annual)
Use VariPrime as a pimer on your firewall. It's a two part self etching
primer. It's very forgiving. You can paint it yourself with a gun from Harbor
Freight. Same with the color coat.
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
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