Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com)
2. 06:34 AM - FW: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Steven Jackson)
3. 07:34 AM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (flyv35b)
4. 10:50 AM - Re: FW: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com)
5. 10:53 AM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com)
6. 06:11 PM - Starter Relays (Steven Jackson)
7. 06:17 PM - Re: Starter Relays (Aucountry@aol.com)
8. 07:04 PM - Re: Starter Relays (Steven Jackson)
9. 08:59 PM - Paint guns (Gil Alexander)
10. 10:41 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (flyv35b)
11. 10:44 PM - Re: Paint guns (Aucountry@aol.com)
12. 11:06 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/01/03 09:58:32 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> Last, is there any problems associated with taking out both the rudder
> spring anchor bolts and the 4 bolts just underneath the rudder spring
> anchors that hold the nose fork torque tube assembly?=A0 If I get those off,
> the whole firewall will be free of extruding parts, save the motor mount
> brackets, and I can paint away...
>
>
Steve, I'm impressed. Most restorations are hack jobs. It sounds like
you're taking the time to do it right. That's great. Remeber, VariPrime=20and
Imron. Let the variprime set up for about 2 hrs before spraying the color.
For Imron, spary one medium wet coat. Use a GOOD paint gun with good
atomization. Don't load up too much in any one spot. You're wearing powder free
gloves... right? After the first coat, wait about 10-20 minutes. At 10
minutes, touch a spot (I always make 4 or 5 spots at various places to test=20the
drying). If it's tacky and paint comes off on your glove, it's too wet or=20the
second coat. Wait some more and repeat. When you can touch the paint and it
still feels a tiny bit tacky but no pain comes off, spray one more medium wet
coat (you can usually go a little bit wetter with the second coat) . When
you are done with the second coat, resist the urge to use up the reat of the
paint. If you must spray another coat, wait unti l the paint is a little drier
than it was when you painted the second coat.
after it's painted, let it all sit for one day, remove the masking tape....
oh, use only yellow core 3M tape. Got to an auto body supply shop for it.=20
Don't use cheap masking tape. It isn't worth the agravation. Now, wait
about 3 more days befoe youstart to assemble it. The paint is dry, it's just
not
very hard. If you wait a week to 10 days before putting stuff back on,
it'll be pretty bullet-proof.
Good luck.
Gary
PS, I painted cars part time for 4 years while going to school. Late 70's=20-
early 80's. I'm a night person so I preppred and painted cars at a body
shop from 7-8pm to sometimes 8a in the morning. Imron was just starting to
prove itself as the paint to beat. Big learning curve since it didn't act=20like
enamels.
My paint gun of choice is a SataJet, made in Germany. Look them up on the
internet. I used a SataJet to paint my Citabria.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Gary wrote:
Steve, I'm impressed. Most restorations are hack jobs. It sounds like
you're taking the time to do it right. That's great.
I'm sort of in a unique situation down here in that my A&P is retired from
SkyWest. He's got a house across the taxi-way from my tie-down spot and he
just likes working on airplanes and doesn't charge me a dime for his
supervision. Not only that, but he owns an impeccably cared for Mooney M20C
and his thorough nature is starting to rub off on me. He's pretty much
energized me to get very detailed.
I've got a supplier for both the Variprime and the Imron (which was no small
task to find online) and I should be ordering the paint stuff this week.
Gary, I really liked your idea of powdercoating the airbox assembly. Who do
you use for powder coating?
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
Steve, as I mentioned before I was pretty sure the heater box would come off
with the one bolt inside the duct. I wouldn't take the bracket that holds
the nose fork assembly to the firewall as it is pretty easily masked and you
can paint it a different color than the firewall if you like.
I agree with Gary about the info on painting IMRON as I have painted quite a
bit of it. Spray a light tack coat first and then a full wet coat. This
will be the minimum to get good coverage. A third coat will flow out and
you will achieve even better gloss with it. I also use a Sata Jet gun.
Cost me about $400 but worth it if you spray a lot.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.)
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson"
<steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
>
> TG,
>
> I got the assembly off the firewall today. After I got the ducting off
the
> box on the interior of the firewall, it just took a really long, skinny
box
> wrench to get to that nut that holds the bolt on. I may have to glue it
> (the nut) in place to get the thing back on, but once the bolt was out,
the
> assembly came right off.
>
> One bright spot (perhaps) in all this was the nose fork. After I got the
> attaching bolts out, the fork came right out with a slight tug. The only
> question I have is whether or not there is supposed to be a bend in the
top
> of the fork, right where it begins to go into the torque tube assembly.
> Mine doesn't show any damage that we would anticipate with a bend like
that
> (no cracks or wrinkles) so my A&P and I figure its supposed to be like
that.
> Is that correct?
>
> Last, is there any problems associated with taking out both the rudder
> spring anchor bolts and the 4 bolts just underneath the rudder spring
> anchors that hold the nose fork torque tube assembly? If I get those off,
> the whole firewall will be free of extruding parts, save the motor mount
> brackets, and I can paint away...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steven Jackson
> N1434R
> L22
> Yucca Valley, CA
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/02/03 06:35:08 AM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> I've got a supplier for both the Variprime and the Imron (which was no
> small
> task to find online) and I should be ordering the paint stuff this week.
> Gary, I really liked your idea of powdercoating the airbox assembly.=A0 Who do
> you use for powder coating?
>
I take my parts to be powder coated to Valley Enamelling in Burbank. It's
just off the 5, off Breuna (I don't know how to spell it... spanish is not my
second language) Vista, go to Thornton, go down Thornton 3 streets until you
get to Olympia, turn right. It's on the left. There is a really good place
to get Cad Plating done across the street. Just down the street on
California, there is a good place to get anodizing and chem film plating done.
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/02/03 07:34:50 AM, flyv35b@juno.com writes:
> I also use a Sata Jet gun. Cost me about $400 but worth it if you spray
> a lot.
>
>
What do you think of the SataJet? I think it's an awesome gun. There is a
place I found online where you get them for a lot less than through the
shops. Plus, for us here in LALA land, I can order the regular gravity feed guns
and not the ones that cause orange peel.
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Message 6
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"Team Grumman" <teamgrumman-list@matronics.com>
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
TG/Gang,
Doing work on my firewall, and I've pulled everything off. What I'm missing
for replacement is the starter relay. Called Fletchair today and they say
they have the master relay in stock, but not the starter relay--and they
don't know about current manufacturers for the part. John Cook is checking
with their manufacturing department and I'll get a reply tomorrow morning
from them. I'd really hate to put my old nasty looking one back onto what
will eventually be a real kickin' firewall. It still works just fine, but
looks like crap and I like the peace of mind that comes with swapping out
the old with new. Any ideas if someone has swapped theirs out would be
appreciated.
Steven Jackson
'75 AA-1B (O-320B2B)
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Relays |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/02/03 06:12:10 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> Doing work on my firewall, and I've pulled everything off.=A0 What I'm
> missing
> for replacement is the starter relay.=A0 Called Fletchair today and they say
> they have the master relay in stock, but not the starter relay--and they
> don't know about current manufacturers for the part. John Cook is checking
> with their manufacturing department and I'll get a reply tomorrow morning
> from them.
>
Well, I won't say who did this, but the Piper starter relay is almost
identical. The PMA number on it is different. I don't recall the part number.
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Message 8
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
I'll keep that in my back pocket
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Aucountry@aol.com
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Starter Relays
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/02/03 06:12:10 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> Doing work on my firewall, and I've pulled everything off.=A0 What I'm
> missing
> for replacement is the starter relay.=A0 Called Fletchair today and they
say
> they have the master relay in stock, but not the starter relay--and they
> don't know about current manufacturers for the part. John Cook is checking
> with their manufacturing department and I'll get a reply tomorrow morning
> from them.
>
Well, I won't say who did this, but the Piper starter relay is almost
identical. The PMA number on it is different. I don't recall the part
number.
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Message 9
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Some of the Sata ones are in the $200 range....
http://www.spraygundepot.com/sata_files/satahvlp.html
Which model are you guys talking about??
And the "Banned in California" by the Peoiple's Republic regular models here...
http://www.spraygundepot.com/sata_files/sataconv.html
gil in Tucson
PS I bought a DeVilbiss from these guys - no problem and quick shipping -
they sometimes sell on e-bay at a buy it now price a few $$$ cheaper...
At 01:52 PM 9/2/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 09/02/03 07:34:50 AM, flyv35b@juno.com writes:
>
>
> > I also use a Sata Jet gun. Cost me about $400 but worth it if you spray
> > a lot.
> >
> >
>
>What do you think of the SataJet? I think it's an awesome gun. There is a
>place I found online where you get them for a lot less than through the
>shops. Plus, for us here in LALA land, I can order the regular gravity
>feed guns
>and not the ones that cause orange peel.
>
>
>Gary
>www.AuCountry.com
>
>Home of "Team Grumman"
>TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
>http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
How much are the regular guns? That is what I have.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: <Aucountry@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.)
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 09/02/03 07:34:50 AM, flyv35b@juno.com writes:
>
>
> > I also use a Sata Jet gun. Cost me about $400 but worth it if you
spray
> > a lot.
> >
> >
>
> What do you think of the SataJet? I think it's an awesome gun. There
is a
> place I found online where you get them for a lot less than through the
> shops. Plus, for us here in LALA land, I can order the regular gravity
feed guns
> and not the ones that cause orange peel.
>
>
> Gary
> www.AuCountry.com
>
> Home of "Team Grumman"
> TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
>
>
Message 11
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/02/03 09:00:36 PM, gilalex@earthlink.net writes:
> http://www.spraygundepot.com/sata_files/sataconv.html
>
I have an 1995 gun, it is the RP 1.3 equivalent
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/02/03 10:41:50 PM, flyv35b@juno.com writes:
> How much are the regular guns?=A0 That is what I have.
> Cliff
>
Price for all of the good guns are in the same range. Figure around $400 as
a good price.
Here is the SataJet 2000 NR
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SAT-61168.html
This is the one I want
http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/SATA/SATA%20SAT29579.htm
Gary
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