---------------------------------------------------------- TeamGrumman-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 09/02/03: 12 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:36 AM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com) 2. 06:34 AM - FW: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Steven Jackson) 3. 07:34 AM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (flyv35b) 4. 10:50 AM - Re: FW: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com) 5. 10:53 AM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com) 6. 06:11 PM - Starter Relays (Steven Jackson) 7. 06:17 PM - Re: Starter Relays (Aucountry@aol.com) 8. 07:04 PM - Re: Starter Relays (Steven Jackson) 9. 08:59 PM - Paint guns (Gil Alexander) 10. 10:41 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (flyv35b) 11. 10:44 PM - Re: Paint guns (Aucountry@aol.com) 12. 11:06 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) (Aucountry@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:36:31 AM PST US From: Aucountry@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com In a message dated 09/01/03 09:58:32 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net writes: > Last, is there any problems associated with taking out both the rudder > spring anchor bolts and the 4 bolts just underneath the rudder spring > anchors that hold the nose fork torque tube assembly?=A0 If I get those off, > the whole firewall will be free of extruding parts, save the motor mount > brackets, and I can paint away... > > Steve, I'm impressed. Most restorations are hack jobs. It sounds like you're taking the time to do it right. That's great. Remeber, VariPrime=20and Imron. Let the variprime set up for about 2 hrs before spraying the color. For Imron, spary one medium wet coat. Use a GOOD paint gun with good atomization. Don't load up too much in any one spot. You're wearing powder free gloves... right? After the first coat, wait about 10-20 minutes. At 10 minutes, touch a spot (I always make 4 or 5 spots at various places to test=20the drying). If it's tacky and paint comes off on your glove, it's too wet or=20the second coat. Wait some more and repeat. When you can touch the paint and it still feels a tiny bit tacky but no pain comes off, spray one more medium wet coat (you can usually go a little bit wetter with the second coat) . When you are done with the second coat, resist the urge to use up the reat of the paint. If you must spray another coat, wait unti l the paint is a little drier than it was when you painted the second coat. after it's painted, let it all sit for one day, remove the masking tape.... oh, use only yellow core 3M tape. Got to an auto body supply shop for it.=20 Don't use cheap masking tape. It isn't worth the agravation. Now, wait about 3 more days befoe youstart to assemble it. The paint is dry, it's just not very hard. If you wait a week to 10 days before putting stuff back on, it'll be pretty bullet-proof. Good luck. Gary PS, I painted cars part time for 4 years while going to school. Late 70's=20- early 80's. I'm a night person so I preppred and painted cars at a body shop from 7-8pm to sometimes 8a in the morning. Imron was just starting to prove itself as the paint to beat. Big learning curve since it didn't act=20like enamels. My paint gun of choice is a SataJet, made in Germany. Look them up on the internet. I used a SataJet to paint my Citabria. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:34:35 AM PST US From: "Steven Jackson" Subject: FW: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" Gary wrote: Steve, I'm impressed. Most restorations are hack jobs. It sounds like you're taking the time to do it right. That's great. I'm sort of in a unique situation down here in that my A&P is retired from SkyWest. He's got a house across the taxi-way from my tie-down spot and he just likes working on airplanes and doesn't charge me a dime for his supervision. Not only that, but he owns an impeccably cared for Mooney M20C and his thorough nature is starting to rub off on me. He's pretty much energized me to get very detailed. I've got a supplier for both the Variprime and the Imron (which was no small task to find online) and I should be ordering the paint stuff this week. Gary, I really liked your idea of powdercoating the airbox assembly. Who do you use for powder coating? Steven Jackson N1434R L22 Yucca Valley, CA ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:34:10 AM PST US From: "flyv35b" Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" Steve, as I mentioned before I was pretty sure the heater box would come off with the one bolt inside the duct. I wouldn't take the bracket that holds the nose fork assembly to the firewall as it is pretty easily masked and you can paint it a different color than the firewall if you like. I agree with Gary about the info on painting IMRON as I have painted quite a bit of it. Spray a light tack coat first and then a full wet coat. This will be the minimum to get good coverage. A third coat will flow out and you will achieve even better gloss with it. I also use a Sata Jet gun. Cost me about $400 but worth it if you spray a lot. Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Jackson" Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" > > TG, > > I got the assembly off the firewall today. After I got the ducting off the > box on the interior of the firewall, it just took a really long, skinny box > wrench to get to that nut that holds the bolt on. I may have to glue it > (the nut) in place to get the thing back on, but once the bolt was out, the > assembly came right off. > > One bright spot (perhaps) in all this was the nose fork. After I got the > attaching bolts out, the fork came right out with a slight tug. The only > question I have is whether or not there is supposed to be a bend in the top > of the fork, right where it begins to go into the torque tube assembly. > Mine doesn't show any damage that we would anticipate with a bend like that > (no cracks or wrinkles) so my A&P and I figure its supposed to be like that. > Is that correct? > > Last, is there any problems associated with taking out both the rudder > spring anchor bolts and the 4 bolts just underneath the rudder spring > anchors that hold the nose fork torque tube assembly? If I get those off, > the whole firewall will be free of extruding parts, save the motor mount > brackets, and I can paint away... > > Thanks, > > Steven Jackson > N1434R > L22 > Yucca Valley, CA > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:50:22 AM PST US From: Aucountry@aol.com Subject: Re: FW: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com In a message dated 09/02/03 06:35:08 AM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net writes: > I've got a supplier for both the Variprime and the Imron (which was no > small > task to find online) and I should be ordering the paint stuff this week. > Gary, I really liked your idea of powdercoating the airbox assembly.=A0 Who do > you use for powder coating? > I take my parts to be powder coated to Valley Enamelling in Burbank. It's just off the 5, off Breuna (I don't know how to spell it... spanish is not my second language) Vista, go to Thornton, go down Thornton 3 streets until you get to Olympia, turn right. It's on the left. There is a really good place to get Cad Plating done across the street. Just down the street on California, there is a good place to get anodizing and chem film plating done. Gary www.AuCountry.com Home of "Team Grumman" TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/subscribe ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:53:21 AM PST US From: Aucountry@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com In a message dated 09/02/03 07:34:50 AM, flyv35b@juno.com writes: > I also use a Sata Jet gun. Cost me about $400 but worth it if you spray > a lot. > > What do you think of the SataJet? I think it's an awesome gun. There is a place I found online where you get them for a lot less than through the shops. Plus, for us here in LALA land, I can order the regular gravity feed guns and not the ones that cause orange peel. Gary www.AuCountry.com Home of "Team Grumman" TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/subscribe ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:11:34 PM PST US From: "Steven Jackson" "Team Grumman" Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Starter Relays --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" TG/Gang, Doing work on my firewall, and I've pulled everything off. What I'm missing for replacement is the starter relay. Called Fletchair today and they say they have the master relay in stock, but not the starter relay--and they don't know about current manufacturers for the part. John Cook is checking with their manufacturing department and I'll get a reply tomorrow morning from them. I'd really hate to put my old nasty looking one back onto what will eventually be a real kickin' firewall. It still works just fine, but looks like crap and I like the peace of mind that comes with swapping out the old with new. Any ideas if someone has swapped theirs out would be appreciated. Steven Jackson '75 AA-1B (O-320B2B) N1434R L22 Yucca Valley, CA ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:17:37 PM PST US From: Aucountry@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Starter Relays --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com In a message dated 09/02/03 06:12:10 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net writes: > Doing work on my firewall, and I've pulled everything off.=A0 What I'm > missing > for replacement is the starter relay.=A0 Called Fletchair today and they say > they have the master relay in stock, but not the starter relay--and they > don't know about current manufacturers for the part. John Cook is checking > with their manufacturing department and I'll get a reply tomorrow morning > from them. > Well, I won't say who did this, but the Piper starter relay is almost identical. The PMA number on it is different. I don't recall the part number. Gary www.AuCountry.com Home of "Team Grumman" TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/subscribe ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:04:45 PM PST US From: "Steven Jackson" Subject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: Starter Relays --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" I'll keep that in my back pocket Steve -----Original Message----- From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Aucountry@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Starter Relays --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com In a message dated 09/02/03 06:12:10 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net writes: > Doing work on my firewall, and I've pulled everything off.=A0 What I'm > missing > for replacement is the starter relay.=A0 Called Fletchair today and they say > they have the master relay in stock, but not the starter relay--and they > don't know about current manufacturers for the part. John Cook is checking > with their manufacturing department and I'll get a reply tomorrow morning > from them. > Well, I won't say who did this, but the Piper starter relay is almost identical. The PMA number on it is different. I don't recall the part number. Gary www.AuCountry.com Home of "Team Grumman" TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/subscribe ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:59:37 PM PST US From: Gil Alexander Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Paint guns --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander Some of the Sata ones are in the $200 range.... http://www.spraygundepot.com/sata_files/satahvlp.html Which model are you guys talking about?? And the "Banned in California" by the Peoiple's Republic regular models here... http://www.spraygundepot.com/sata_files/sataconv.html gil in Tucson PS I bought a DeVilbiss from these guys - no problem and quick shipping - they sometimes sell on e-bay at a buy it now price a few $$$ cheaper... At 01:52 PM 9/2/2003 -0400, you wrote: >--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com > > >In a message dated 09/02/03 07:34:50 AM, flyv35b@juno.com writes: > > > > I also use a Sata Jet gun. Cost me about $400 but worth it if you spray > > a lot. > > > > > >What do you think of the SataJet? I think it's an awesome gun. There is a >place I found online where you get them for a lot less than through the >shops. Plus, for us here in LALA land, I can order the regular gravity >feed guns >and not the ones that cause orange peel. > > >Gary >www.AuCountry.com > >Home of "Team Grumman" >TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com >http://www.matronics.com/subscribe > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:41:27 PM PST US From: "flyv35b" Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" How much are the regular guns? That is what I have. Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com > > > In a message dated 09/02/03 07:34:50 AM, flyv35b@juno.com writes: > > > > I also use a Sata Jet gun. Cost me about $400 but worth it if you spray > > a lot. > > > > > > What do you think of the SataJet? I think it's an awesome gun. There is a > place I found online where you get them for a lot less than through the > shops. Plus, for us here in LALA land, I can order the regular gravity feed guns > and not the ones that cause orange peel. > > > Gary > www.AuCountry.com > > Home of "Team Grumman" > TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:20 PM PST US From: Aucountry@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Paint guns --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com In a message dated 09/02/03 09:00:36 PM, gilalex@earthlink.net writes: > http://www.spraygundepot.com/sata_files/sataconv.html > I have an 1995 gun, it is the RP 1.3 equivalent ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:06:38 PM PST US From: Aucountry@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cabin Heat Assembly (Cont.) --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com In a message dated 09/02/03 10:41:50 PM, flyv35b@juno.com writes: > How much are the regular guns?=A0 That is what I have. > Cliff > Price for all of the good guns are in the same range. Figure around $400 as a good price. Here is the SataJet 2000 NR http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SAT-61168.html This is the one I want http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/SATA/SATA%20SAT29579.htm Gary