Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:02 AM - Re: [Please Read] SPAM Filter Could Be Causing (linn walters)
2. 09:14 AM - Re: Grumman Carbon Fiber cowl (Aucountry@aol.com)
3. 05:49 PM - Prop Pitch (Steven Jackson)
4. 06:02 PM - Metal or Alumi Prep (Steven Jackson)
5. 06:06 PM - Re: Prop Pitch (Charles Adams)
6. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Prop Pitch (Charles Adams)
7. 06:31 PM - Re: Metal or Alumi Prep (Aucountry@aol.com)
8. 09:00 PM - Re: Metal or Alumi Prep (Steven Jackson)
9. 09:21 PM - Re: Metal or Alumi Prep (linn walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: [Please Read] SPAM Filter Could Be Causing |
Posting Problems For Some Members...?
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Matt, how do you prevent spiders from combing your web site and sucking
off your 'trouble report' email? I'd like to do the same for my web
site ..... when I get it up and running again.
Linn Walters
Matt Dralle wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>Matronics is now utilizing a SPAM filter appliance to filter out the
>excessive amounts of inappropriate email that bombards the Email List
>Forums each day. The filter is reporting that over 66% of the email
>messages sent to Matronics email destinations are of SPAM content and
>reviewing the logfiles, it would appear to be true. That is indeed great!
>
>While the Lists are enjoying the breath of fresh air afforded by the new
>appliance, I am suspecting that a few legitimate email List posts are being
>blocked as too, although I can't confirm this. It is difficult to churn
>through the logfiles looking though thousands of blocked email messages
>trying to determine if any legitimate List posts were blocked.
>
>If you suspect that your posts are accidently being blocked by the SPAM
>filter appliance, I have created a new Trouble Report web page that will
>allow you to report your problems directly to me without having to use
>email. If the SPAM filter is blocking your email address for some reason,
>then its likely that I wouldn't be able to receive your direct email
>regarding difficulty in posting. The web form bypasses the incoming email
>and directs your message directly to me.
>
>Please include as much information as possible regarding the problems you
>are having including any bounced email or email error messages that you may
>have received back in regard to your posts to the lists. The more
>information I have about the email you are sending and what the errors you
>are receiving, the better chance I'll have in hunting down the problem.
>
>The Trouble Report Website URL is:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report/
>
>I apologize for any inconvenience the SPAM filter may be causing you. I
>will work toward resolving your issues as quickly as possible.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics EMail List Administrator
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Grumman Carbon Fiber cowl |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/22/03 05:57:57 AM, Phil@ReliantAir.com writes:
>
> Please let me know what I need to do to get one!=A0 Hopefully, you have a=20list
> of interested buyers that I can get on!=A0 Looking forward to hearing from
> you.
>
> Phil Kelsey
> Reliant Air Charter
> 203-743-5100 ext 111
> <A HREF"mailto:Phil@ReliantAir.com"> Phil@ReliantAir.com
>
Hi Phil,
I am currently modifying the bottom of the cowling to eliminate the nose gear
boot. The inlet is being cleaned up a little too. There isn't an
'interested buyers' list yet. The biggest snag will be getting approval. =20
The FAA
is slower than evolution. Keep monitoring Team Grumman - list for updates.
I will be getting the blue Tiger back in November and I'll be able to continue
flight testing then.
Gary
www.AuCountry.com
Home of "Team Grumman"
TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Message 3
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
TG,
Can't remember off the top of my head, but 60" pitch is pretty low, right?
As in climb prop-land? As I get my prop overhauled, I'm thinking about a
repitch as well--there are times when I can turn more than 2700 rpm in
cruise (around 7-9000 range). Takeoff usually results in an initial 1200
fpm climb solo (at normal DA values) with full fuel at the old Vy speed.
How much would the performance values change per inch of pitch change?
Steven Jackson
AA-1B (O-320)
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 4
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| Subject: | Metal or Alumi Prep |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
When painting instructions talk about "use a wax and grease remover" to
clean the surface before painting, are they talking about metalprep or
alumiprep? If so, what's the best way to use this stuff. The instructions
on the bottle are a little vague, and I don't think I was using it right
this weekend while I was cleaning the nose strut. (Or are they both just
snake-oil?)
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 5
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Charles Adams <cradams2@adelphia.net>
if you have the 150hp 60-62 inches. If you have the 160hp 62-64 inches. Prop limits
are 58-64 inches
Charlie Adams
>
> From: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
> Date: 2003/09/22 Mon PM 05:49:53 PDT
> To: "Team Grumman" <teamgrumman-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Prop Pitch
>
>
Message 6
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Charles Adams <cradams2@adelphia.net>
Forgot to add. I have the 150hp and am pitched at 60 inches enough climb to get
over the hills from CMA but still turn close to 2700 rpm at altitude.
Charlie Adams
>
> From: Charles Adams <cradams2@adelphia.net>
> Date: 2003/09/22 Mon PM 06:06:02 PDT
> To: <teamgrumman-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Prop Pitch
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Metal or Alumi Prep |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 09/22/03 06:02:36 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> When painting instructions talk about "use a wax and grease remover" to
> clean the surface before painting, are they talking about metalprep or
> alumiprep?
>
Get some PPG DX330 wax and grease remover. Wipe with one fairly wet NEW
clean Painter's rag, and wipe off dry with another clean NEW painters rag. Do
not reuse rags when prepping for new paint. EVER.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Metal or Alumi Prep |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
These may be dumb questions, but (1) do you need a pressure regulator for a
good paint job and (2) what kind of temperatures should I be looking for for
best painting results, and (3) if I get the baffles powder coated, do I do
that before or after I trim the pieces to fit?
Thanks for the patience,
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Metal or Alumi Prep |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Steven Jackson wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
>
>These may be dumb questions,
>
There are no dumb questions. Dumb answers maybe!!!
> but (1) do you need a pressure regulator for a
>good paint job
>
Depends on your spray outfit and compressor, but mostly the answer is
yes. A good constant pressure will give you consistent spray
atomization and consistent coverage.
> and (2) what kind of temperatures should I be looking for for
>best painting results,
>
You use reducers for the temperature that you'll be spraying in. For
the higher temps, the reducer takes longer to boil off, and for colder
temps they boil off faster so that the end result is that the reducers
will boil off at the same rate.
> and (3) if I get the baffles powder coated, do I do
>that before or after I trim the pieces to fit?
>
Do it after it all fits and all the holes are drilled. Drill the holes
a little oversize so that you don't have to clean the powder coat out to
put the scres in. If you're going to pop rivet the baffle seals on, put
those holes in also. The powder coat will attach itself to every
exposed part of the piece and will flow nicely around the edges. The
baked powder coat is a little brittle and any cutting or drilling may
cause it to chip off.
Linn
>
>Thanks for the patience,
>
>Steven Jackson
>N1434R
>L22
>Yucca Valley, CA
>
>
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