Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:21 PM - just out of curiosity (Aucountry@aol.com)
2. 06:30 PM - LoPresti nose bowl (Aucountry@aol.com)
3. 08:42 PM - Tip of the Week - spark plug sockets (Gil Alexander)
4. 10:15 PM - Re: Tip of the Week - spark plug sockets (linn walters)
5. 10:38 PM - Re: Tip of the Week - spark plug sockets (Gil Alexander)
Message 1
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| Subject: | just out of curiosity |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
If anyone out there happens to have the carb air box off a Tiger, could you
do me a favor? Try to install the airbox 180 degrees out of ordinary. let
me know if it fits.
Thanks
Gary
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT COLOR"#000000" FACE"Comic San=
s MS" LANG"0" SIZE"2">If anyone out there happens to have the carb air=
box off a Tiger, could you do me a favor? Try to install the airbox=20=
180 degrees out of ordinary. let me know if it fits.<BR>
<BR>
Thanks<BR>
Gary</FONT><FONT COLOR"#000000" FACE"Comic Sans MS" LANG"0" SIZE=
"2"></FONT></HTML>
Message 2
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| Subject: | LoPresti nose bowl |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
As luck would have it, a lady called the other day and asked if I could look
at her plane because it was running way over 450 degrees (JPI 700) on climb
out on cyls #3 and #4. She has only owned the plane (a 76) for a short time.
When she showed up, lo-and-behold, it had a LoPresti nose bowl on it. She
told me that she had the LoPresti nose bowl installed to lower her CHT. After
flying it for 20 minutes, she flew it to Fox Field so I could look at it.
Now, I don't know who did the baffles, but, they are WAY bad. There are parts
missing.... well, let's just say, it's not so good. One thing I noticed on
the LoPresti nose bowl, it's going to be difficult to properly seal the engine
to the nose bowl in the corners by #1 and #2 cylinders.
Also, the metal baffles on this one look like they were beat into submission
with a hammer. I don't know what it is with mechanics/owners who install
baffles and bend the hell out of them to get then into place. All it does is
ruin the baffle.
Also, please, don't use a ratchet on plugs #3 and #4. Get one of the
adapters that let you use an 11/16 wrench on a socket. You can remove the plugs
in
less time and it doesn't f%@k-up the metal baffle.
Gary
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT COLOR"#000000" FACE"Comic San=
s MS" LANG"0" SIZE"2">As luck would have it, a lady called the other d=
ay and asked if I could look at her plane because it was running way over 45=
0 degrees (JPI 700) on climb out on cyls #3 and #4. She has only owne=
d the plane (a 76) for a short time. When she showed up, lo-and-behol=
d, it had a LoPresti nose bowl on it. She told me that she had the Lo=
Presti nose bowl installed to lower her CHT. After flying it for 20 m=
inutes, she flew it to Fox Field so I could look at it. Now, I don't=20=
know who did the baffles, but, they are WAY bad. There are parts miss=
ing.... well, let's just say, it's not so good. One thing I noticed o=
n the LoPresti nose bowl, it's going to be difficult to properly seal the en=
gine to the nose bowl in the corners by #1 and #2 cylinders. <BR>
<BR>
Also, the metal baffles on this one look like they were beat into submission=
with a hammer. I don't know what it is with mechanics/owners who ins=
tall baffles and bend the hell out of them to get then into place. Al=
l it does is ruin the baffle.<BR>
<BR>
Also, please, don't use a ratchet on plugs #3 and #4. Get one of the=20=
adapters that let you use an 11/16 wrench on a socket. You can remove=
the plugs in less time and it doesn't f%@k-up the metal baffle.<BR>
<BR>
Gary</FONT><FONT COLOR"#000000" FACE"Comic Sans MS" LANG"0" SIZE=
"2"></FONT></HTML>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Tip of the Week - spark plug sockets |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Guys,
Another option...
1. Buy Autolite (Unison) spark plugs - the preferred REM37BY.
2. Take a 7/8 deep socket and trim it's length to 2 3/4 inches (mine was
3 1/4 inches)
In concert with the shorter Autolite plugs, this cut down socket can
now be used with a regular handle and still fit down inside the baffles on
#3 and #4 cylinders.
No special tools needed, I just used cut-off wheel in my trusty
Dremel. just make sure your deep socket has it's flutes going down deep
into the socket so it will grip after you cut it down. My Craftsman deep
socket was OK, but a cheapo Chinese socket was not modifiable.
...hope this helps someone.....
gil in Tucson...
making a new #2 cylinder baffle that was screwed up by previous baffle work...
...and I'm still fouling the lower plugs - even with REM37BY's ...:^(
At 09:29 PM 10/8/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Also, please, don't use a ratchet on plugs #3 and #4. Get one of the
>adapters that let you use an 11/16 wrench on a socket. You can remove
>the plugs in
>less time and it doesn't f%@k-up the metal baffle.
>
>Gary
<html>
<font size=3>Guys,<br>
Another option...<br>
<br>
1. Buy Autolite (Unison) spark plugs - the preferred REM37BY.<br>
2. Take a 7/8 deep socket and trim it's length to 2 3/4
inches (mine was 3 1/4 inches)<br>
<br>
In concert with the shorter Autolite
plugs, this cut down socket can now be used with a regular handle and
still fit down inside the baffles on #3 and #4 cylinders.<br>
<br>
No special tools needed, I just used
cut-off wheel in my trusty Dremel. just make sure your deep socket
has it's flutes going down deep into the socket so it will grip after you
cut it down. My Craftsman deep socket was OK, but a cheapo Chinese
socket was not modifiable.<br>
<br>
...hope this helps
someone.....<br>
<br>
gil in Tucson... <br>
making a new #2 cylinder baffle that was screwed up by previous baffle
work...<br>
...and I'm still fouling the lower plugs - even with REM37BY's
...:^(<br>
<br>
<br>
At 09:29 PM 10/8/2003 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Also, please, don't use a ratchet
on plugs #3 and #4. Get one of the <br>
adapters that let you use an 11/16 wrench on a socket. You
can remove the plugs in <br>
less time and it doesn't f%@k-up the metal baffle.<br>
<br>
Gary<br>
</font></blockquote></html>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Tip of the Week - spark plug sockets |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Gil Alexander wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
>
>
>Guys,
> Another option...
>
>1. Buy Autolite (Unison) spark plugs - the preferred REM37BY.
>2. Take a 7/8 deep socket and trim it's length to 2 3/4 inches (mine was
>3 1/4 inches)
>
> In concert with the shorter Autolite plugs, this cut down socket can
>now be used with a regular handle and still fit down inside the baffles on
>#3 and #4 cylinders.
>
> No special tools needed, I just used cut-off wheel in my trusty
>Dremel. just make sure your deep socket has it's flutes going down deep
>into the socket so it will grip after you cut it down. My Craftsman deep
>socket was OK, but a cheapo Chinese socket was not modifiable.
>
> ...hope this helps someone.....
>
> gil in Tucson...
>making a new #2 cylinder baffle that was screwed up by previous baffle work...
>...and I'm still fouling the lower plugs - even with REM37BY's ...:^(
>
Fouling with what? REM37BY's won't help with oil ...... but will help
with lead fouling. But then so will agressive leaning. :-D .
Linn
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tip of the Week - spark plug sockets |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Linn ...Sorry .... I should have said - lead fouling.
The top plugs are REM40 (or maybe REM38, I need to check) and near perfect,
the new REM37BY bottom plugs are lead fouled in 30 hrs.
You are right, I think I need to lean more aggressively.... I only monitor
#4 for CHT/EGT, and I guess I listened to too many horror stories of
burning up exhaust valves. On the vacation trip we just took (25 hrs in 2
weeks) I leaned to peak rpm, and then pushed in 2 clicks.
Perhaps I should run at peak rpm??
Before I pulled the plugs, I had a dynamic prop balance check, I didn't
think the new plugs would foul that quickly.
Balance was within spec. at 0.12, and no weights were added.
...gil A
PS I have a PowerFlow exhaust installed. Engine is 1998 Lyc. O/H with 470 TTE
At 01:16 AM 10/9/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Gil Alexander wrote:
>
> >--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander
> <gilalex@earthlink.net>
> >
> >
> >Guys,
> > Another option...
> >
> >1. Buy Autolite (Unison) spark plugs - the preferred REM37BY.
> >2. Take a 7/8 deep socket and trim it's length to 2 3/4 inches (mine was
> >3 1/4 inches)
> >
> > In concert with the shorter Autolite plugs, this cut down socket can
> >now be used with a regular handle and still fit down inside the baffles on
> >#3 and #4 cylinders.
> >
> > No special tools needed, I just used cut-off wheel in my trusty
> >Dremel. just make sure your deep socket has it's flutes going down deep
> >into the socket so it will grip after you cut it down. My Craftsman deep
> >socket was OK, but a cheapo Chinese socket was not modifiable.
> >
> > ...hope this helps someone.....
> >
> > gil in Tucson...
> >making a new #2 cylinder baffle that was screwed up by previous baffle
> work...
> >...and I'm still fouling the lower plugs - even with REM37BY's ...:^(
> >
>Fouling with what? REM37BY's won't help with oil ...... but will help
>with lead fouling. But then so will agressive leaning. :-D .
>Linn
>
>
<html>
<font size=3>Linn ...Sorry .... I should have said - lead
fouling. <br>
<br>
The top plugs are REM40 (or maybe REM38, I need to check) and near
perfect, the new REM37BY bottom plugs are lead fouled in 30 hrs.<br>
<br>
You are right, I think I need to lean more aggressively.... I only
monitor #4 for CHT/EGT, and I guess I listened to too many horror stories
of burning up exhaust valves. On the vacation trip we just took (25
hrs in 2 weeks) I leaned to peak rpm, and then pushed in 2 clicks.<br>
Perhaps I should run at peak rpm??<br>
<br>
Before I pulled the plugs, I had a dynamic prop balance check, I didn't
think the new plugs would foul that quickly. <br>
Balance was within spec. at 0.12, and no weights were added.<br>
<br>
...gil A<br>
<br>
PS I have a PowerFlow exhaust installed. Engine is 1998 Lyc.
O/H with 470 TTE<br>
<br>
At 01:16 AM 10/9/2003 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>--> TeamGrumman-List message
posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com><br>
<br>
Gil Alexander wrote:<br>
<br>
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander
<gilalex@earthlink.net><br>
><br>
><br>
>Guys,<br>
> Another option...<br>
><br>
>1. Buy Autolite (Unison) spark plugs - the preferred
REM37BY.<br>
>2. Take a 7/8 deep socket and trim it's length to 2 3/4
inches (mine was <br>
>3 1/4 inches)<br>
><br>
> In concert with the shorter
Autolite plugs, this cut down socket can <br>
>now be used with a regular handle and still fit down inside the
baffles on <br>
>#3 and #4 cylinders.<br>
><br>
> No special tools needed, I just
used cut-off wheel in my trusty <br>
>Dremel. just make sure your deep socket has it's flutes going
down deep <br>
>into the socket so it will grip after you cut it down. My
Craftsman deep <br>
>socket was OK, but a cheapo Chinese socket was not modifiable.<br>
><br>
> ...hope this helps
someone.....<br>
><br>
> gil in
Tucson...<br>
>making a new #2 cylinder baffle that was screwed up by previous
baffle work...<br>
>...and I'm still fouling the lower plugs - even with REM37BY's
...:^(<br>
><br>
Fouling with what? REM37BY's won't help with oil ......
but will help <br>
with lead fouling. But then so will agressive leaning. :-D .<br>
Linn<br>
<br>
<br>
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