Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:24 AM - Re: Simultaneous GG/TG Email Listing (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
2. 08:35 AM - Re: Simultaneous GG/TG Email Listing (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
3. 09:14 AM - Re: Main Strut Wraps (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
4. 09:29 AM - Bitchin' (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
5. 09:46 AM - Re: Bitchin' (flyv35b)
6. 09:51 AM - Re: Bitchin' (Bruce Smith)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Simultaneous GG/TG Email Listing |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 12/19/03 06:12:52 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
writes:
> Don't know if I'm the last one to figure this out or not, but if you send
> an
> email to the Grumman Gang, and Bcc Team Grumman (so that the GG doesn't see
> whom else you sent the message to) you can send the same email to both
> lists.=A0 I've got MS Outlook so I can Bcc.=A0 I don't know if you can do=20it
> with yahoo, aol, etc...
>
Thanks, I think I tried something like that a while ago and it wouldn't work.
Maybe i did it wrong.
Gary
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Simultaneous GG/TG Email Listing |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 12/19/03 9:12:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
steven.jackson14@adelphia.net writes:
> Don't know if I'm the last one to figure this out or not, but if you send an
> email to the Grumman Gang, and Bcc Team Grumman (so that the GG doesn't see
> whom else you sent the message to) you can send the same email to both
> lists. I've got MS Outlook so I can Bcc. I don't know if you can do it
> with yahoo, aol, etc...
>
> Steven Jackson
> N1434R
> L22
> Yucca Valley, CA
>
Can't do that with AOL...no BCC
At least not on version 5.0 ...and NO I don't want to upgrade... I don't get
popus with 5.0, and there is no SPYing going on with 5.0.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Main Strut Wraps |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
This is how i do it.
Clean up the foam gear leg faring halves with PPG DX 300 and a 3M scrubbie.
I use the green ones. Fold up cotton rag, put your scrubbie on the rag,
pour the DX 300 on the scrubbie, (it'll go through the scrubbie to the rag. Use
a lot of 330.
Scrub it/Clean it until you no longer see any of the white mold release
residue. Let it set until it's dry so you can tell where you missed. It's more
work than you think. After it is thoroughly clean, get a NEW, unwashed,
cotton rag, soak it is DX300, and liberally (you conservatives can just say to
yourself, use a lot) on the rag and wipe down the foam halves. Using another
clean, unwashed, cotton rag, dry off the surface. Let it set for at least an
hour.
Get some of the 'Original' Weldwood, DAP, contact cement. Stir the contents
thoroughly. At least 10-15 minutes.
When you pick up the contact cement, get some of the little white (the pink
ones work too), round, foam, roller pads. Don't get the roller. The foam
roller pads are about 1 inch in diameter and 4 inches long.
When the surfaces are free of the release powder and the contact cement is
thoroughly stirred, dip the end if the foam roller pad into the contact cement
and put a nice thin to mediaum film of cement on the leading edge mating
surface only.
When the cement is dry to the touch, not even tacky, AND it is GLOSSY, pick
up one half and carefully lay it on top of the other half, starting at one end.
Carefully lay the top half down joining the leading edge so it makes a nice
seam. Get a book (an Aircraft Spruce catolog is the perfect size) and put
it between the halves. This keeps any load on the seam from pulling the seam
apart until it is completely set. Do the same with the other set.
Let is set for 24 hours.
After stipping off the old gear leg fairing, use some De-Solv-It (from the
Orange Sol company in Gilbert, Arizona. You can get some at Ace Hardware and
sometimes at K-Mart, Wal-Mart, and Albertsons.) and spray it on the glue. You
can use a single edge razor blade in a paint scraper to get some of the
stubborn stuff. Only scrape from the top down. The fiberglas fibers are more
exposed in the bottom to top direction and it's possible to pick up a fiber.
Go gently. use the De-Solv-It and a green scrubbie and you can get 90% of it
off.
Wipe off the cean gear leg with a new clean unwashed cotton rag soaked in
DX330. Then dry with another unwashed, clean cotton rag. Let this set for at
least 30 minutes. Tape a piece of 3/8 inch rubber hose about 2 inches long
to the bottom leading edge of the gear leg just above the hardware for the
wheel.
Do ONE gear at a time. Don't rush the process.
Now, mark off on the gear leg where you want the fairing to be. DO NOT
TOUCH THE SURFACE TO BE GLUED. I usually just wrap a piece of masking tape
around the area where I don't want the fairing to be.
Using the same faom roller, dip in the cement (don't forget to stir
thoroughly for at least 5-10 minutes) and put a thin to medium coat on the inside
surface of the foam gear leg fairing. Don't worry about the corners. Be sure
to
put glue on the trailing edge too. Do both sides.
Put a like amount of cement on the fiberglas gear leg. Do both the upper
and lower surface. Don't worry about the leading or trailing edges.
When the contact cement is dry to the touch, pick up the foam fairing, (don't
let the halves touch or you'll never get them apart.) Scoot under the wing,
line up the fairing with the top tape stripe. Your objective is to line up
the top (horizontally), the forward edge of the leading edge (of the fiberglas
gear leg) with the foam gear leg fairing forward edge and the piece of rubber
hose. The fiberglas gear leg tapers and a piece of 3/8 rubber hose seems
about right.
With the upper halve in place, get on your back under the gear leg and
carefully fold the bottom half in place. THEN, line up the trailing edge.
Most of the time, this process works without a hitch. Other times....
Gary
Message 4
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
I got in trouble 40 years ago for saying Bitchin to my friend when I was in
the 7th grade. I had to go to the office. My how times have changed.
I finished the installation of the MT prop and fired up the plane. I ran
out of time to fly it though and I have to leave this morning for Lake Havasu so
I won't be able to go flying until Tuesday.
The three bladed prop looks cool, it's noticebely quieter, even on the
ground.
The installation took about 24 hours. Most of that was spent trial fitting
where to put the wires, where to mount the manifold pressure gauge and
controller, making the mounting brackets and trying to figure out just what the
hell
the instructions meant.
The starter ring gear had to be drilled in 8 places.
The mounting for the brush block is totally unclear in the instructions and
the drawings, though very nice engineering drawings, are only in two views
without the engine so it's impossible to tell where to mount the bracket. THe
mounting bracket has to be shimmed away from the engine where it's mounted
because the block is recessed where the bolts go in. Not a great design. it's
also on a moment arm that may vibrate.
The instructions are for every MT prop configuration made so a lot of time is
spent trying to figure out what applies you your prop and what is excess BS.
Take out the plugs when you go to torque the prop bolts.
Safety wiring the prop in place is not bad if you have previous experience as
a neuro-surgeon.
There are no perspective type pictures like I'm used to seeing on
installations so a lot of interpretting needs to be done with the engineering drawings.
During the initial check out, it says to set the prop for take-off and run up
to static RPM. That was the first time I ever saw 2500 on the tach during a
static run. Cool. The controller allows the pilot to set any rpm below
2500 and above 1500. I ran it up and down to check.
It's really a pretty cool inatallation.
I'd change a couple of things with respect to the brush block mounting but
that's about it.
Oh, Yea, the spinner is about 1/2 inch smaller in diameter and it really
shows off any mis-alignment of the engine to the cowling.
Gary
Message 5
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
Now the proof of the pudding - how well does it perform in both climb and
cruise modes.
I still think they should allow 2700 rpm for takeoff.
Cliff A&P/IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <TeamGrumman@aol.com>
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Bitchin'
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
> I got in trouble 40 years ago for saying Bitchin to my friend when I was
in
> the 7th grade. I had to go to the office. My how times have changed.
>
> I finished the installation of the MT prop and fired up the plane. I ran
> out of time to fly it though and I have to leave this morning for Lake
Havasu so
> I won't be able to go flying until Tuesday.
>
> The three bladed prop looks cool, it's noticebely quieter, even on the
> ground.
>
> The installation took about 24 hours. Most of that was spent trial
fitting
> where to put the wires, where to mount the manifold pressure gauge and
> controller, making the mounting brackets and trying to figure out just
what the hell
> the instructions meant.
>
> The starter ring gear had to be drilled in 8 places.
>
> The mounting for the brush block is totally unclear in the instructions
and
> the drawings, though very nice engineering drawings, are only in two views
> without the engine so it's impossible to tell where to mount the bracket.
THe
> mounting bracket has to be shimmed away from the engine where it's mounted
> because the block is recessed where the bolts go in. Not a great design.
it's
> also on a moment arm that may vibrate.
>
> The instructions are for every MT prop configuration made so a lot of time
is
> spent trying to figure out what applies you your prop and what is excess
BS.
>
>
> Take out the plugs when you go to torque the prop bolts.
>
> Safety wiring the prop in place is not bad if you have previous experience
as
> a neuro-surgeon.
>
> There are no perspective type pictures like I'm used to seeing on
> installations so a lot of interpretting needs to be done with the
engineering drawings.
>
>
> During the initial check out, it says to set the prop for take-off and run
up
> to static RPM. That was the first time I ever saw 2500 on the tach
during a
> static run. Cool. The controller allows the pilot to set any rpm below
> 2500 and above 1500. I ran it up and down to check.
>
> It's really a pretty cool inatallation.
>
> I'd change a couple of things with respect to the brush block mounting but
> that's about it.
>
> Oh, Yea, the spinner is about 1/2 inch smaller in diameter and it really
> shows off any mis-alignment of the engine to the cowling.
>
> Gary
>
>
Message 6
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Bruce Smith <res02p3h@verizon.net>
Gary,
Are you going to post pictures on your website?
Oh oh. Drag. I'm looking forward to hearing what the cruise speed ends
up being. I'm guessing on a loss of 3 mph. Just a WAG.
Bruce Smith
On Dec 20, 2003, at 12:29 PM, TeamGrumman@aol.com wrote:
> Oh, Yea, the spinner is about 1/2 inch smaller in diameter and it
> really
> shows off any mis-alignment of the engine to the cowling.
>
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