Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:04 AM - Re: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft (flyv35b)
2. 09:02 AM - Re: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
3. 10:24 AM - Re: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft (flyv35b)
4. 03:06 PM - Re: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft (Steven Jackson)
5. 09:58 PM - Heat Box Control Arms (Continued) (Steven Jackson)
6. 10:00 PM - Heat Box Control Arms (Continued) (Steven Jackson)
7. 10:04 PM - Re: Heat Box Control Arms (Continued) (ThomasTholmes512@aol.com)
8. 10:43 PM - Oil Cooler Inlet Ducts (Steven Jackson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
If you are talking about a Tiger airbox, their are 2 butterfly valves that
need to be removed before the shaft can be removed. The original arms were
welded and the shaft bushing was just an AN grommet.
Cliff A&P/IA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson"
<steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
>
> TG,
>
> Looking at the shafts that run through the carb and cabin heat boxes, I
> noticed that on both, the shaft is welded to the control arm. How do you
> get that shaft out in order to powder coat the box? Unless I
misunderstood,
> Fletchair told me that the butterfly valve inside held the shaft in, but
> with the valve out, the shaft won't budge. On the carb heat box, the
> bushings look shot and there's a lot of play in the shaft. Did the OEM
> boxes have control arms welded to the shafts?
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Steven Jackson
> N1434R
> L22
> Yucca Valley, CA
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 02/04/04 08:06:39 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> If you are talking about a Tiger airbox, their are 2 butterfly valves that
> need to be removed before the shaft can be removed.=A0 The original arms were
> welded and the shaft bushing was just an AN grommet.
>
>
I think he has a two seater...
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
Pretty simple then. Just take out the butterfly valve and remove the shaft.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TeamGrumman@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 02/04/04 08:06:39 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com
writes:
>
>
> > If you are talking about a Tiger airbox, their are 2 butterfly valves
that
> > need to be removed before the shaft can be removed.=A0 The original arms
were
> > welded and the shaft bushing was just an AN grommet.
> >
> >
>
> I think he has a two seater...
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Sorry, should have been more specific. And, yes it is a 1975 AA-1B with an
O-320 conversion.
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TeamGrumman@aol.com
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Carb and Cabin Heat Box Control Shaft
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 02/04/04 08:06:39 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com
writes:
> If you are talking about a Tiger airbox, their are 2 butterfly valves that
> need to be removed before the shaft can be removed.=A0 The original arms
were
> welded and the shaft bushing was just an AN grommet.
>
>
I think he has a two seater...
Message 5
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| Subject: | Heat Box Control Arms (Continued) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
TG,
Sorry to draw this out. Tried everything short of banging on the control
arm with a hammer today, with the valve off the shaft of the cabin heat box.
Now, I know its supposed to come out with the valve out. But, it doesn't.
I'm curious as to whether or not someone might have removed the original
heat boxes when the engine conversion was done, back in '78. The adapter
that connects the air intake duct to the carb heat box has had the original
rivets removed, and new ones installed on the heat box. There's only 1 set
of holes on the heat box. I guess it stands to reason that there could have
been a substitution done, albeit one not listed in the logbook (naturally).
Personally, besides the parts not being officially approved parts, I'm not
so concerned about the boxes and shafts. What I would like to do is remove
the shafts so I can get the boxes fixed up really nice. So, my mechanic
said if we get desperate, we could cut the arm off the shaft and remove it
that way--but, looking at the control arm and shaft, I'm not convinced that
its the control arm that's holding the shaft in there. It almost feels like
there's some internal lock inside the bushings that keeping them in. I know
someone mentioned yesterday that the bushings were supposed to be rubber
grommets, but mine are hard plastic, and don't look pliable at all. There's
also a doubler welded on top of the flange where the bushings are connected
to both boxes. Could it be that that doubler is on top of some other plate
connected to the shaft?
I'm looking in the Collier STC to see if it called for replacing the boxes,
but so far I haven't seen anything.
If anyone knows or has a recommendation, I'm all ears...
Thanks,
Steven Jackson
'75 AA-1B, O-320 (Collier) Conversion
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 6
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| Subject: | Heat Box Control Arms (Continued) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Oh yeah,
Gary, the original conversion was done by Ernest Towers of Palmdale, CA.
Does that name ring a bell? (I know it was a long time ago).
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Heat Box Control Arms (Continued) |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: ThomasTholmes512@aol.com
Steven,
I'm following this w/great interest. I have the Collier conversion also,
and would like to swap the airbox out for the AA5 box. I understand that the
Cessna 170 airbox is the same except that the control arms!!! are on the
opposite side of the box. So much for my idea of just swapping the control arms
around! ;-)
Tom
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil Cooler Inlet Ducts |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
TG,
Since new baffles are going on the engine, I'm also working on the oil
cooler setup. The mounting bracket for the oil cooler was in a bad state so
its getting repaired. The Collier STC calls for a welded ducting flange to
mount on the left front baffle, just below where the baffle hits the left
front cylinder (can't remember which one that is off the top of my head).
The baffles I took off the engine had the oil cooler intlet duct mounted on
the aft left side of the baffle, just behind and above the back left jug.
This installation does not match the drawings in the STC.
Once again, I'm curious as to why the difference. I'm sure that such a
drastic departure from the drawings had some sort of thought behind it. I
remember Dr. Elliot posting something about using a different oil cooler
inlet to increase the efficiency of the cooler, and I remember Gary talking
about how you lose air pressure going through the tube when the tube is
longer. So, just looking for the best place to put the inlet. I'm also
curious as to how big the inlet can/should be. The one in the drawings is 2
inches wide. Is this optimal?
The face and duct on the cooler mount, where the SCAT is clamped onto the
oil cooler mounting bracket, are getting repaired during all this, and the
original hole measures 2 inches across. I'm assuming that both ducts would
need to be the same size due to the SCAT diameter at both ends. It appears
that the hole on the face could be wider, say 2.25 or 2.5 inches. I'm sure
I could match that up with the inlet that comes off the baffles.
Thanks for the advice,
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
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