Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:23 AM - Dome and Clock Fuse (Mark Thomas Mueller)
2. 05:24 AM - Oops (Brad Kramer)
3. 06:04 AM - Madison picnic photos (David Feinstein)
4. 06:25 AM - AA-1A broken rudder cable (David Feinstein)
5. 10:21 AM - Re: Dome and Clock Fuse (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
6. 10:24 AM - Re: Madison picnic photos (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
7. 10:31 AM - Re: AA-1A broken rudder cable (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
8. 10:31 AM - Re: Oops (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
9. 10:38 AM - Re: Dome and Clock Fuse (flyv35b)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Dome and Clock Fuse |
0.1 HTML_FONTCOLOR_UNKNOWN BODY: HTML font color is unknown to us
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Mark Thomas Mueller" <mark.t.mueller@comcast.net>
My digital clock stopped working (right after the annual!?!?!?), so I
did some troubleshooting yesterday. I started by checking the fuses next
to the battery tray first. I was startled when I moved a wire and it
sparked! Obviously, the "hot" wire was loose in the cowling. This may
not be the ultimate problem, but it is a problem.
Unfortunately, I cannot really determine the appropriate terminal, and
the maintenance manual is not very descriptive, and I don't like the
idea of just touch a hot wire to terminals to find the right one.
I really don't feel like having to drop the lower cowl to do the repair,
either. The existing wires appear to be soldered on to the terminals. Is
this an appropriate connection in a high vibration environment?
Any helpful hints or tips would be appreciated.
Mark
Tiger N1533R
Message 2
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Brad Kramer <brad@vision-technology.com>
Oops... posted a message titled "Edge of the Envelope" to
the wrong list. Sorry.
Message 3
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"Team Grumman" <TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com>,
"Mooney Mail-List" <mooney@aviating.com>
| Subject: | Madison picnic photos |
Qmail-Scrubber-Version: 1.00
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "David Feinstein" <david@carneyaviation.com>
We had a great group at Madison yesterday. Most of the fly-ins were Grummans
(not one Mooney driver visited - hmmmph!), with a sprinkling of other
airplanes, ultralights, powered parachutes, and a few RC models.
Photos at http://carneyaviation.com/madpicnic/
Message 4
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<Peter.Seferovic@perkinelmer.com>
| Subject: | AA-1A broken rudder cable |
Qmail-Scrubber-Version: 1.00
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "David Feinstein" <david@carneyaviation.com>
I broke a rudder cable while landing my AA-1A yesterday.
http://carneyaviation.com/madpicnic/mad18.jpg.
Although I've been flying a fair amount this year, I've barely put 50 hours
on this plane since its last annual inspection, when the IA complied with the
AD that requires inspecting this cable for wear.
He also replaced all six pulleys at that time, which I learned when I picked
up the airplane. I was quite upset that he did this without consulting with
me, because he did not use the larger pulleys that are available now. He said
I didn't need them.
Well, you know that's where the cable broke.
Remembering some comments when another pilot broke a rudder cable at the Blue
Ash convention, I twisted these cables to look at the center. No obvious
corrosion inside there, and no obvious rust anywhere.
When this cable breaks, the rudder springs pull both pedals all the way
forward. From that position, the brake pedal's travel is limited and
steering is interesting, to say the very least.
Another good reason to touch down as slowly as you can. You never know when
an ordinary landing is going to turn into something special.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dome and Clock Fuse |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 05/09/04 5:30:37 AM, mark.t.mueller@comcast.net writes:
> I really don't feel like having to drop the lower cowl to do the repair,
> either. The existing wires appear to be soldered on to the terminals. Is
> this an appropriate connection in a high vibration environment?
>
I'm afraid you're stuck removing the cowling if you want the job done right.
Look at my web site (if you have a 76-77 Cheetah or Tiger) and there is a
wiring diagram for the plane. There is only one typo that I haven't fixed but
it isn't in that area anyway. There is a wire that comes off of the
battery relay and goes directly to the fuses. It splits and goes to both fuses.
They were soldered from the facotry. Unfortunately, the wires are in a very
hostile environment and get brittle and break. If it were mine, I'd replace
all of the wiring AND fuses. Replace the wiring with approved 18-20 gauge
wire and replace the fuses with Klixon circuit breakers. They mount from behind
and won't have to be disconnected to remove them from the mounting. They
also have screw attachments. Put shrink sleeving on the exposed ends.
Gary
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Madison picnic photos |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 05/09/04 6:04:33 AM, david@carneyaviation.com writes:
> http://carneyaviation.com/madpicnic/
>
Was anyone injured in the broken cable incident? I hope not. No planes
were hurt either I hope.
I haven't been back to Connecticutt since 99. My dad grew up in
Southington. Know any Vogt's there? I could be related.
Gary
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: AA-1A broken rudder cable |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 05/09/04 6:25:45 AM, david@carneyaviation.com writes:
> I broke a rudder cable while landing my AA-1A yesterday.
> http://carneyaviation.com/madpicnic/mad18.jpg.
>
Glad to hear you wern't hurt. The cables in the AA1 seem to be a problem.
Paul Fitzgerald had a 76 Tiger here in Lancaster, CA. He was doing an
annual last year and found some frayed cables. During the replacement of the
cables, he found a few bad pulleys as well. I always rotate the pulleys (during
an annual or when I'm in the area) by hand and look at the wear pattern in the
pulley. It lets me know if the pulley is moving or if the cable is sliding
in the pulley.
Gary
Message 8
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 05/09/04 5:25:35 AM, brad@vision-technology.com writes:
> Oops... posted a message titled "Edge of the Envelope" to
> the wrong list.=A0 Sorry.
>
>
No problem. makes for interesting reading. This isn't a list where you
have to worry about the content of the message you send. If it's interesting
to you, chances are it's interesting to several others as well.
Gary
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Dome and Clock Fuse |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
>If it were mine, I'd replace
> all of the wiring AND fuses. Replace the wiring with approved 18-20
gauge
> wire and replace the fuses with Klixon circuit breakers. They mount from
behind
> and won't have to be disconnected to remove them from the mounting.
Nothing wrong with that, but don't you think that pull type breakers in the
engine compartment is a bit of an overkill? The only advantage I see is you
can easily remove the breakers when you want to remove the battery mounting
tray for painting.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: <TeamGrumman@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Dome and Clock Fuse
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 05/09/04 5:30:37 AM, mark.t.mueller@comcast.net writes:
>
>
> > I really don't feel like having to drop the lower cowl to do the repair,
> > either. The existing wires appear to be soldered on to the terminals. Is
> > this an appropriate connection in a high vibration environment?
> >
>
> I'm afraid you're stuck removing the cowling if you want the job done
right.
> Look at my web site (if you have a 76-77 Cheetah or Tiger) and there is a
> wiring diagram for the plane. There is only one typo that I haven't
fixed but
> it isn't in that area anyway. There is a wire that comes off of the
> battery relay and goes directly to the fuses. It splits and goes to both
fuses.
> They were soldered from the facotry. Unfortunately, the wires are in a
very
> hostile environment and get brittle and break. If it were mine, I'd
replace
> all of the wiring AND fuses. Replace the wiring with approved 18-20
gauge
> wire and replace the fuses with Klixon circuit breakers. They mount from
behind
> and won't have to be disconnected to remove them from the mounting. They
> also have screw attachments. Put shrink sleeving on the exposed ends.
>
> Gary
>
>
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