Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:21 AM - anti-chafe material (Gil Alexander)
2. 03:07 AM - Re: AA-1A broken rudder cable (David Feinstein)
3. 10:08 AM - Re: Dome and Clock Fuse (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
4. 10:08 AM - Re: anti-chafe material (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
5. 10:43 AM - Re: Dome and Clock Fuse (flyv35b)
6. 10:46 AM - Re: anti-chafe material (flyv35b)
7. 11:25 AM - Re: anti-chafe material (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
8. 12:38 PM - Re: anti-chafe material (flyv35b)
Message 1
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| Subject: | anti-chafe material |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Tried "the other list" ... but got no reply... can anyone here help?
...what is the best material for the black stick-on (glue on?)
stuff that is used on the Tigers to provide an anti-chafe for wires on the
edge of bulkheads etc.??
I'm now entering the "put it back together" phase of the SAIB
repair, and would like to replace this stuff, which seemed like it might
have been a thin sponge rubber at one time, but has turned into a brittle
black plastic with age.
This seems to be used in pieces on large holes and straight
pieces, so the usual nylon "caterpillar" stuff would not be applicable. I
have some thin black sponge rubber, but am concerned wether it would stay
stuck over time in the heat.
Any help would be appreciated..... thanks gil in
Tucson N28478
PS successfully drilled the two new vertical pieces for the two 3/8 horiz.
fwd. spar attach bolts. Will detail the procedure in a later post, and I
also have the drill bushings and reamer available for loan if needed by others.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: AA-1A broken rudder cable |
Qmail-Scrubber-Version: 1.00
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "David Feinstein" <david@carneyaviation.com>
# Was anyone injured in the broken cable incident?
No damage to people or planes, other than the cable itself. This is one time
I was happy to be on a 150-foot-wide runway.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Dome and Clock Fuse |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 05/09/04 10:39:31 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> Nothing wrong with that, but don't you think that pull type breakers in the
> engine compartment is a bit of an overkill?=A0 The only advantage I see is you
> can easily remove the breakers when you want to remove the battery mounting
> tray for painting.
>
It's a pet peeve. I hate the fuses. The fuses pretty much need to be
destroyed to remove them for painting etc. Yes, the pull breakers are overkill.
On the other hand, they are easy to pull when you want to work on the
cabin/map light switch or to pull so as not to accidently run down your battery.
Including the clock if you plan to let the plane sit for an extended period=20of
time.
I removed the fuses and wiring completely from my engine compartment, wired
the cabin/map light to my main bus and installed a clock with a AAA battery
that keeps it alive when the switch is off.
Gary
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: anti-chafe material |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 05/10/04 1:22:20 AM, gilalex@earthlink.net writes:
>=A0 ...what is the best material for the black stick-on (glue on?)
> stuff that is used on the Tigers to provide an anti-chafe for wires on the
> edge of bulkheads etc.??
>
>
When I did the Citabria, I bought an anti-chafe kit from Aircraft Spruce.
It has some adheasive that sticks really well. The sealing/anti-chafing strip
that seemed to hold up very well.
Gary
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dome and Clock Fuse |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
> It's a pet peeve. I hate the fuses. The fuses pretty much need to be
> destroyed to remove them for painting etc. Yes, the pull breakers are
overkill.
> On the other hand, they are easy to pull when you want to work on the
> cabin/map light switch or to pull so as not to accidentally run down your
battery.
> Including the clock if you plan to let the plane sit for an extended
period=20of
> time.
>
> I removed the fuses and wiring completely from my engine compartment,
wired
> the cabin/map light to my main bus and installed a clock with a AAA
battery
> that keeps it alive when the switch is off.
I hate the original fuseholders too. I usually end up drilling out the
rivets holding the fuseholder plate to the battery tray and just let it and
the fuses hang and then rerivet it after powdercoating the battery tray.
Breakers are fine. Actually I might look into installing a small 2 circuit
(not sure a 2 circuit exists) Bussman buss with the plug in automotive fuses
on the firewall for always hot circuits. I think adding an always hot
emergency buss off the battery contactor terminal thru a fuse, feeding a
Klixon breaker inside which in turn feeds an emergency buss would be a good
idea. 10-15 amp would be adequate to operate a lot of essential equipment
to get you back on the ground if you needed to shut off the master switch.
Cliff A&P/IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <TeamGrumman@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Dome and Clock Fuse
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 05/09/04 10:39:31 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com
writes:
>
>
> > Nothing wrong with that, but don't you think that pull type breakers in
the
> > engine compartment is a bit of an overkill?=A0 The only advantage I see
is you
> > can easily remove the breakers when you want to remove the battery
mounting
> > tray for painting.
> >
>
> It's a pet peeve. I hate the fuses. The fuses pretty much need to be
> destroyed to remove them for painting etc. Yes, the pull breakers are
overkill.
> On the other hand, they are easy to pull when you want to work on the
> cabin/map light switch or to pull so as not to accidently run down your
battery.
> Including the clock if you plan to let the plane sit for an extended
period=20of
> time.
>
> I removed the fuses and wiring completely from my engine compartment,
wired
> the cabin/map light to my main bus and installed a clock with a AAA
battery
> that keeps it alive when the switch is off.
>
> Gary
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: anti-chafe material |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
The material I like a lot is a 1-1/4" or 1- 1/2" wide felt with a good
adhesive from LP Aero. It is normally used around the edges of the window
but is a good antichafe material and stronger than the original foam tape.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gil Alexander" <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander
<gilalex@earthlink.net>
>
> Tried "the other list" ... but got no reply... can anyone here help?
>
> ...what is the best material for the black stick-on (glue
on?)
> stuff that is used on the Tigers to provide an anti-chafe for wires on the
> edge of bulkheads etc.??
>
> I'm now entering the "put it back together" phase of the SAIB
> repair, and would like to replace this stuff, which seemed like it might
> have been a thin sponge rubber at one time, but has turned into a brittle
> black plastic with age.
>
> This seems to be used in pieces on large holes and straight
> pieces, so the usual nylon "caterpillar" stuff would not be applicable. I
> have some thin black sponge rubber, but am concerned wether it would stay
> stuck over time in the heat.
>
> Any help would be appreciated..... thanks gil in
> Tucson N28478
>
> PS successfully drilled the two new vertical pieces for the two 3/8
horiz.
> fwd. spar attach bolts. Will detail the procedure in a later post, and I
> also have the drill bushings and reamer available for loan if needed by
others.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: anti-chafe material |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 05/10/04 10:47:03 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> The material I like a lot is a 1-1/4" or 1- 1/2" wide felt with a good
> adhesive from LP Aero.=A0 It is normally used around the edges of the window
> but is a good antichafe material and stronger than the original foam tape.
>
I have some of this felt tape. How well does it wear?
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: anti-chafe material |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
> I have some of this felt tape. How well does it wear?
I think it wears better than the soft foam tape if something is rubbing back
and forth across it.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TeamGrumman@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 05/10/04 10:47:03 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com
writes:
>
>
> > The material I like a lot is a 1-1/4" or 1- 1/2" wide felt with a good
> > adhesive from LP Aero.=A0 It is normally used around the edges of the
window
> > but is a good antichafe material and stronger than the original foam
tape.
> >
>
> I have some of this felt tape. How well does it wear?
>
>
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