---------------------------------------------------------- TeamGrumman-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 05/10/04: 8 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:21 AM - anti-chafe material (Gil Alexander) 2. 03:07 AM - Re: AA-1A broken rudder cable (David Feinstein) 3. 10:08 AM - Re: Dome and Clock Fuse (TeamGrumman@aol.com) 4. 10:08 AM - Re: anti-chafe material (TeamGrumman@aol.com) 5. 10:43 AM - Re: Dome and Clock Fuse (flyv35b) 6. 10:46 AM - Re: anti-chafe material (flyv35b) 7. 11:25 AM - Re: anti-chafe material (TeamGrumman@aol.com) 8. 12:38 PM - Re: anti-chafe material (flyv35b) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:21:52 AM PST US From: Gil Alexander Subject: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander Tried "the other list" ... but got no reply... can anyone here help? ...what is the best material for the black stick-on (glue on?) stuff that is used on the Tigers to provide an anti-chafe for wires on the edge of bulkheads etc.?? I'm now entering the "put it back together" phase of the SAIB repair, and would like to replace this stuff, which seemed like it might have been a thin sponge rubber at one time, but has turned into a brittle black plastic with age. This seems to be used in pieces on large holes and straight pieces, so the usual nylon "caterpillar" stuff would not be applicable. I have some thin black sponge rubber, but am concerned wether it would stay stuck over time in the heat. Any help would be appreciated..... thanks gil in Tucson N28478 PS successfully drilled the two new vertical pieces for the two 3/8 horiz. fwd. spar attach bolts. Will detail the procedure in a later post, and I also have the drill bushings and reamer available for loan if needed by others. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:07:30 AM PST US From: "David Feinstein" Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Re: AA-1A broken rudder cable Qmail-Scrubber-Version: 1.00 --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "David Feinstein" # Was anyone injured in the broken cable incident? No damage to people or planes, other than the cable itself. This is one time I was happy to be on a 150-foot-wide runway. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:08:18 AM PST US From: TeamGrumman@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Dome and Clock Fuse --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com In a message dated 05/09/04 10:39:31 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes: > Nothing wrong with that, but don't you think that pull type breakers in the > engine compartment is a bit of an overkill?=A0 The only advantage I see is you > can easily remove the breakers when you want to remove the battery mounting > tray for painting. > It's a pet peeve. I hate the fuses. The fuses pretty much need to be destroyed to remove them for painting etc. Yes, the pull breakers are overkill. On the other hand, they are easy to pull when you want to work on the cabin/map light switch or to pull so as not to accidently run down your battery. Including the clock if you plan to let the plane sit for an extended period=20of time. I removed the fuses and wiring completely from my engine compartment, wired the cabin/map light to my main bus and installed a clock with a AAA battery that keeps it alive when the switch is off. Gary ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:08:26 AM PST US From: TeamGrumman@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com In a message dated 05/10/04 1:22:20 AM, gilalex@earthlink.net writes: >=A0 ...what is the best material for the black stick-on (glue on?) > stuff that is used on the Tigers to provide an anti-chafe for wires on the > edge of bulkheads etc.?? > > When I did the Citabria, I bought an anti-chafe kit from Aircraft Spruce. It has some adheasive that sticks really well. The sealing/anti-chafing strip that seemed to hold up very well. Gary ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:43:51 AM PST US From: "flyv35b" Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Dome and Clock Fuse --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" > It's a pet peeve. I hate the fuses. The fuses pretty much need to be > destroyed to remove them for painting etc. Yes, the pull breakers are overkill. > On the other hand, they are easy to pull when you want to work on the > cabin/map light switch or to pull so as not to accidentally run down your battery. > Including the clock if you plan to let the plane sit for an extended period=20of > time. > > I removed the fuses and wiring completely from my engine compartment, wired > the cabin/map light to my main bus and installed a clock with a AAA battery > that keeps it alive when the switch is off. I hate the original fuseholders too. I usually end up drilling out the rivets holding the fuseholder plate to the battery tray and just let it and the fuses hang and then rerivet it after powdercoating the battery tray. Breakers are fine. Actually I might look into installing a small 2 circuit (not sure a 2 circuit exists) Bussman buss with the plug in automotive fuses on the firewall for always hot circuits. I think adding an always hot emergency buss off the battery contactor terminal thru a fuse, feeding a Klixon breaker inside which in turn feeds an emergency buss would be a good idea. 10-15 amp would be adequate to operate a lot of essential equipment to get you back on the ground if you needed to shut off the master switch. Cliff A&P/IA ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Dome and Clock Fuse > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com > > > In a message dated 05/09/04 10:39:31 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes: > > > > Nothing wrong with that, but don't you think that pull type breakers in the > > engine compartment is a bit of an overkill?=A0 The only advantage I see is you > > can easily remove the breakers when you want to remove the battery mounting > > tray for painting. > > > > It's a pet peeve. I hate the fuses. The fuses pretty much need to be > destroyed to remove them for painting etc. Yes, the pull breakers are overkill. > On the other hand, they are easy to pull when you want to work on the > cabin/map light switch or to pull so as not to accidently run down your battery. > Including the clock if you plan to let the plane sit for an extended period=20of > time. > > I removed the fuses and wiring completely from my engine compartment, wired > the cabin/map light to my main bus and installed a clock with a AAA battery > that keeps it alive when the switch is off. > > Gary > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:46:03 AM PST US From: "flyv35b" Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" The material I like a lot is a 1-1/4" or 1- 1/2" wide felt with a good adhesive from LP Aero. It is normally used around the edges of the window but is a good antichafe material and stronger than the original foam tape. Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gil Alexander" Subject: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander > > Tried "the other list" ... but got no reply... can anyone here help? > > ...what is the best material for the black stick-on (glue on?) > stuff that is used on the Tigers to provide an anti-chafe for wires on the > edge of bulkheads etc.?? > > I'm now entering the "put it back together" phase of the SAIB > repair, and would like to replace this stuff, which seemed like it might > have been a thin sponge rubber at one time, but has turned into a brittle > black plastic with age. > > This seems to be used in pieces on large holes and straight > pieces, so the usual nylon "caterpillar" stuff would not be applicable. I > have some thin black sponge rubber, but am concerned wether it would stay > stuck over time in the heat. > > Any help would be appreciated..... thanks gil in > Tucson N28478 > > PS successfully drilled the two new vertical pieces for the two 3/8 horiz. > fwd. spar attach bolts. Will detail the procedure in a later post, and I > also have the drill bushings and reamer available for loan if needed by others. > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:25:44 AM PST US From: TeamGrumman@aol.com Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com In a message dated 05/10/04 10:47:03 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes: > The material I like a lot is a 1-1/4" or 1- 1/2" wide felt with a good > adhesive from LP Aero.=A0 It is normally used around the edges of the window > but is a good antichafe material and stronger than the original foam tape. > I have some of this felt tape. How well does it wear? ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:38:01 PM PST US From: "flyv35b" Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" > I have some of this felt tape. How well does it wear? I think it wears better than the soft foam tape if something is rubbing back and forth across it. ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: anti-chafe material > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com > > > In a message dated 05/10/04 10:47:03 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes: > > > > The material I like a lot is a 1-1/4" or 1- 1/2" wide felt with a good > > adhesive from LP Aero.=A0 It is normally used around the edges of the window > > but is a good antichafe material and stronger than the original foam tape. > > > > I have some of this felt tape. How well does it wear? > >