Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:38 AM - Re: JPI Wiring Secrets (flyv35b)
2. 06:13 PM - Re: JPI Wiring Secrets (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
3. 06:17 PM - Re: Details on Gary's new cylinders (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
4. 06:26 PM - Re: Details on Gary's new cylinders (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
5. 10:37 PM - Re: Details on Gary's new cylinders (Steven Jackson)
6. 10:37 PM - Re: JPI Wiring Secrets (Steven Jackson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: JPI Wiring Secrets |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
> I've noticed in a couple of Gary's pictures and from an email a while back
> that he runs the wires from the CHT & EGT probes a way so they are not
> visible around the outside of the engine. I was looking at the clips that
> secure the primer lines to the intake pipes, and thought this may be a
good
> place to route them. But, then I wasn't sure about the heat around the
> bottom of the engine and its affect on the wires.
>
> What's the cleanest way to route those suckers to the rear?
They are visible with the cowling off at least and even with it on if look
closely. The CHT probes can be routed just under the rocker drain back
tubes and tiewrapped to them (split a short piece of hose and put on the
tube) and the EGT probes are typically routed on the outside of the exhaust
stacks. Both sets of lead wires can join together and route up the lower
diagonal motor mount tube to the firewall and then inside. The wires are
pretty tolerant to heat, just keep them away from the exhaust stacks as much
as possible.
Cliff A&P/IA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: JPI Wiring Secrets
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson"
<steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
>
> TG
>
> I've noticed in a couple of Gary's pictures and from an email a while back
> that he runs the wires from the CHT & EGT probes a way so they are not
> visible around the outside of the engine. I was looking at the clips that
> secure the primer lines to the intake pipes, and thought this may be a
good
> place to route them. But, then I wasn't sure about the heat around the
> bottom of the engine and its affect on the wires.
>
> What's the cleanest way to route those suckers to the rear?
>
> Steven Jackson
> '75 AA-1B (O-320)
> N1434R
> L22
> Yucca Valley, CA
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: JPI Wiring Secrets |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 7/18/04 6:39:05 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> They are visible with the cowling off at least and even with it on if look
> closely.=A0 The CHT probes can be routed just under the rocker drain back
> tubes and tiewrapped to them (split a short piece of hose and put on the
> tube) and the EGT probes are typically routed on the outside of the exhaust
> stacks.=A0 Both sets of lead wires can join together and route up the lower
> diagonal motor mount tube to the firewall and then inside.=A0 The wires are
> pretty tolerant to heat, just keep them away from the exhaust stacks as much
> as possible.
>
Actually, all of the connections are made above the muffler and routed under
the motor to their respective cylinders. Cylinders 1 & 3 have their EGT
probes mounted on the inside so they are out of the way. Cyls 2 & 4 have them
toward the back, away from the spark plug. I use the existing wiring harness
for to/from the alternator (from the fire wall to the alternator) as a path=20for
the wires.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Details on Gary's new cylinders |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 7/16/04 5:20:13 AM, Douglas.Weir@us.calyon.com writes:
> Questions for Gary: Can you remind me of exactly what cylinders/treatments
> you ordered from Lycon, and what the purpose/value of the additional
> treatments is?=A0 And, secondly, if I go this route, are there any practical
> limitations to "cleaning up" the firewall forward as you would normally do
> with an OH (e.g. paint engine, paint engine mount, replace Lord mounts,
> etc.)?=A0 What is a reasonable estimate for an extensive top OH?=A0 10k?
>
On an engine that has had periodic inspections and never torn down for prop
strike, etc, I really see no reason not to just do a top end overhaul. On the
other hand, if the engine has been opened up a number of times for this and
that, start fresh with a complete overhaul. The inside of my engine had a=20lot
of sludge and grit (carbon) in it. I flushed it with AV gas several times
until it started to run clear. My decision to just do a top had less to do
with getting more hours out of the engine than it did with just not having the
time to have the engine torn down. Besides, I can use my cylinders when I=20go
to fuel injection.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Details on Gary's new cylinders |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 7/16/04 7:02:49 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> My suggestion would be to continue running your engine as is for awhile or
> even just fixing the two cylinders (if they need it) that were not replaced
> with new exhaust guides and grid the valves and seats, etc. or bite the
> bullet and go for the complete overhaul.=A0 Either way you will get the most
> out of the money you spent after some more flying when you go to sell the
> plane.
>
>
If you are just going to do two cylinders, do them all.
I disagree with a top end overhaul not having much value. The bottom end is
bullet proof. it doesn't know it has 30 years on it. My reason for
recommending a complete overhaul if it's been opened up a number of times is that,
in general, most workmanship sucks. odds are, something isn't right.
Bottom line is: what is your final goal with the engine/plane? Do you plan
to spend as little as possible to fly as much as possible? You run the risk
of failure of something by taking the cheapest route. If you plan on making
this an investment, Get a complete overhaul.
Gary
Message 5
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| Subject: | Details on Gary's new cylinders |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Gary wrote:
"The bottom end is bullet proof. it doesn't know it has 30 years on it."
My crank was case-in-point. Manufactured in 1956, and when it was measured
dimensionally, the journals came out within Lycomings "factory new"
tolerances.
Steven Jackson
N1434R
L22
Yucca Valley, CA
Message 6
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| Subject: | JPI Wiring Secrets |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Steven Jackson" <steven.jackson14@adelphia.net>
Thanks...
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TeamGrumman@aol.com
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: JPI Wiring Secrets
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 7/18/04 6:39:05 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> They are visible with the cowling off at least and even with it on if look
> closely.=A0 The CHT probes can be routed just under the rocker drain back
> tubes and tiewrapped to them (split a short piece of hose and put on the
> tube) and the EGT probes are typically routed on the outside of the
exhaust
> stacks.=A0 Both sets of lead wires can join together and route up the
lower
> diagonal motor mount tube to the firewall and then inside.=A0 The wires
are
> pretty tolerant to heat, just keep them away from the exhaust stacks as
much
> as possible.
>
Actually, all of the connections are made above the muffler and routed under
the motor to their respective cylinders. Cylinders 1 & 3 have their EGT
probes mounted on the inside so they are out of the way. Cyls 2 & 4 have
them
toward the back, away from the spark plug. I use the existing wiring
harness
for to/from the alternator (from the fire wall to the alternator) as a
path=20for
the wires.
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