Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:48 AM - Re: Paint Questions (linn walters)
2. 12:06 PM - O-290 to O-320 (FLYaDIVE@AOL.COM)
3. 01:14 PM - Re: O-290 to O-320 (Gil Alexander)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Questions |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
On the subject of bubbles ....... this could be caused by moisture in
the air hose. A good toilet-paper-type filter near the gun (no you
don't have to carry it around) works wonders and a hose dedicated to the
gun will really improve a paint job.
Linn ..... learned to paint the hard way ..... with lots of sandpaper :-)
TeamGrumman@AOL.COM wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 9/28/04 6:59:04 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net writes:
>
>
>
>
>>-Both bottom and top of stab had lots of tiny little air bubbles after the
>>tack coat.=A0 Checked my troubleshooting manual and couldn't really find an
>>answer for that one.=A0 Noticed that while the pressure on the gun in a
>>sustained spray was 29 psi on the micrometer, it starts out higher--say 40
>>psi for about 1/2 second, then drops to 29.I figured that the higher
>>pressure would be gone by the time I was over the stab, since I start my
>>stroke off the stab, then work across.=A0 But, thought possibly that the
>>combination of possible high pressure and possible excess thinning may be
>>the cause.=A0 Also, I assume the second step is to sand the paint to remove
>>the bubbles and then repaint.=A0 How long should I wait to sand--a day, two?
>>
>>
>>
>
>First of all, you have the wrong kind of pressure regulator. Get a decent
>one. They cost about $35.
>
>Second, you really need the Sata jet that shoots in the 11-15 cfm for decent
>paint application.
>
>Third, the air bubbles. It's called solvent popping. It's a mismatch
>between the reducer you're using, the volume of paint applied, the application
>pressure (I always use a mucch higher pressure than recommended; in the 30-35
psi
>range.) and the ambient temp. You said it was 70s but what was the temp of
>the part? I had a problem about a year ago with Imron and solvent popping.
>I'd never seen it before. The new paints really suck and you need to find
>what combination works for you.
>
>Fourth: Never start painting a new part without painting test pieces first.
>
>I painted a part about a year ago that I had to paint 5 times. I ended up
>painting it at 3 in the morning when it was cooler.
>
>Gary
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
A&P's and Team:
I'm looking for information on the possibility of putting O-320 Cylinders on
an O-290. I spent quite a while on the Lycoming web site without any luck.
Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: O-290 to O-320 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Barry... this guy seems to know about it....
http://www.homebuilt.org/vendors/p&e/barber.html
...gil in Tucson (and Google...)
At 12:06 PM 9/29/2004, you wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
>A&P's and Team:
>
>I'm looking for information on the possibility of putting O-320 Cylinders on
>an O-290. I spent quite a while on the Lycoming web site without any luck.
>
>Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
>
>Barry
>"Chop'd Liver"
>
>
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