---------------------------------------------------------- TeamGrumman-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 09/29/04: 3 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:48 AM - Re: Paint Questions (linn walters) 2. 12:06 PM - O-290 to O-320 (FLYaDIVE@AOL.COM) 3. 01:14 PM - Re: O-290 to O-320 (Gil Alexander) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:48:37 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Paint Questions --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: linn walters On the subject of bubbles ....... this could be caused by moisture in the air hose. A good toilet-paper-type filter near the gun (no you don't have to carry it around) works wonders and a hose dedicated to the gun will really improve a paint job. Linn ..... learned to paint the hard way ..... with lots of sandpaper :-) TeamGrumman@AOL.COM wrote: >--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com > > >In a message dated 9/28/04 6:59:04 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net writes: > > > > >>-Both bottom and top of stab had lots of tiny little air bubbles after the >>tack coat.=A0 Checked my troubleshooting manual and couldn't really find an >>answer for that one.=A0 Noticed that while the pressure on the gun in a >>sustained spray was 29 psi on the micrometer, it starts out higher--say 40 >>psi for about 1/2 second, then drops to 29.I figured that the higher >>pressure would be gone by the time I was over the stab, since I start my >>stroke off the stab, then work across.=A0 But, thought possibly that the >>combination of possible high pressure and possible excess thinning may be >>the cause.=A0 Also, I assume the second step is to sand the paint to remove >>the bubbles and then repaint.=A0 How long should I wait to sand--a day, two? >> >> >> > >First of all, you have the wrong kind of pressure regulator. Get a decent >one. They cost about $35. > >Second, you really need the Sata jet that shoots in the 11-15 cfm for decent >paint application. > >Third, the air bubbles. It's called solvent popping. It's a mismatch >between the reducer you're using, the volume of paint applied, the application >pressure (I always use a mucch higher pressure than recommended; in the 30-35 psi >range.) and the ambient temp. You said it was 70s but what was the temp of >the part? I had a problem about a year ago with Imron and solvent popping. >I'd never seen it before. The new paints really suck and you need to find >what combination works for you. > >Fourth: Never start painting a new part without painting test pieces first. > >I painted a part about a year ago that I had to paint 5 times. I ended up >painting it at 3 in the morning when it was cooler. > >Gary > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 12:06:59 PM PST US From: FLYaDIVE@AOL.COM Subject: TeamGrumman-List: O-290 to O-320 --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com A&P's and Team: I'm looking for information on the possibility of putting O-320 Cylinders on an O-290. I spent quite a while on the Lycoming web site without any luck. Any help would be appreciated, thank you. Barry "Chop'd Liver" ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 01:14:33 PM PST US From: Gil Alexander Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: O-290 to O-320 --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander Barry... this guy seems to know about it.... http://www.homebuilt.org/vendors/p&e/barber.html ...gil in Tucson (and Google...) At 12:06 PM 9/29/2004, you wrote: >--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com > >A&P's and Team: > >I'm looking for information on the possibility of putting O-320 Cylinders on >an O-290. I spent quite a while on the Lycoming web site without any luck. > >Any help would be appreciated, thank you. > >Barry >"Chop'd Liver" > >