Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:02 AM - second try ... Ammeter needle wiggle (TeamGrumman@AOL.COM)
2. 04:36 AM - Re: ()
3. 12:37 PM - Re: (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
4. 12:47 PM - cheap gas (TeamGrumman@AOL.COM)
5. 01:52 PM - K&N Filter (TeamGrumman@AOL.COM)
6. 05:51 PM - Re: second try ... Ammeter needle wiggle (FLYaDIVE@AOL.COM)
7. 08:52 PM - Re: K&N Filter (Gil Alexander)
8. 09:08 PM - Re: second try ... Ammeter needle wiggle (TeamGrumman@AOL.COM)
Message 1
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| Subject: | second try ... Ammeter needle wiggle |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
Some of you may know that I replaced the alternator at the AYA - Sacto this
last July. That alternator spun its retaining nut off and scarred my cowling.
I replaced that alternator with another. However, the needle wiggled and
the voltage was only 13.5 volts whereas the previous alternator had 14.1
volts. I replaced the alternator controller (AC) with a Zeftronics R15v00 before
the first alternator went T.U. I use a JPI 800 to read the line voltage.
I replaced the Master Switch. No Change
I replaced the connectors on the AC and the needle settled out a lot, but,
still low (13.5v) voltage.
I replaced the connectors on the Alternator and No change.
I replaced the connectors on the grounds at the alternator and on the AC and
the voltage went back to 14.1 volts.
It was my understanding that the grounds on the shielded wires was to ground
noise. Apparently, there is enough of a voltage drop across the shield on
the shielded wires to affect the ACs ability to
correctly measure the voltage. Or, it could be that in replacing all the
terminals, maybe I cut off a portion of wire that was causing the AC to only put
out 13.5 volts.
It's still FM.
Gary
PS, by-the-way, on all but the first start today, I didn't need to prime or
pump the throttle to start the engine (4 starts). The engine started with the
throttle closed (open enoough to idle at 700 rpm when started) on 3 blades.
Message 2
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: <923te@cox.net>
Hi Gary,
Just wondered if your new cowl will be constructed with carbon fiber and not fiberglass?
Also, have you weighed it and compared weight to the stock cowls?
Thanks,
Ned
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: rumman-List: |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 8/29/05 4:37:59 AM, 923te@cox.net writes:
> Also, have you weighed it and compared weight to the stock cowls?
>
without hardware, it weighs 14 lbs
Message 4
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
if you fly around Northern California, the gas at Westover-Jackson County
airport is $3.29 a gallon. It's $3.90 here in Auburn.
Message 5
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
The K&N Filter STC'd for the Tiger is K&N PN E1000 from any auto parts store.
It fits a bunch of Chryselr products and a few GM products. It's $31.95.
The Recharge kit for it is $9.00.
It's the STC that's expensive. $227.15 from Power Flow. Roughly $200.
The HC STC from Precision is only $500.
That's expensive paper.....
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: second try ... Ammeter needle wiggle |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 8/29/05 3:04:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
TeamGrumman@aol.com writes:
> It was my understanding that the grounds on the shielded wires was to
ground
> noise. Apparently, there is enough of a voltage drop across the shield
on
> the shielded wires to affect the ACs ability to
> correctly measure the voltage. Or, it could be that in replacing all the
> terminals, maybe I cut off a portion of wire that was causing the AC to
only
> put
> out 13.5 volts.
>
> It's still FM.
>
> Gary
====================
Gary:
I know, I know FM ... But here is some magic dust to try ...
If you are reading a different voltage when you connect the SHIELD GROUND
wire I would be looking at the QUALITY of the Voltage Signal coming out of the
Alternator.
It sounds like you have AC on the DC Voltage Signal.
Now, I do not have any experience with the JPI 800, but I do have lots with
FLUKE. Take a good, digital VOM and put it in the AC scale about 20 VAC, and
slowly lower the scale looking for an AC voltage. IF, you see any AC above 2
to 3 Volts you have a bad Diode in the DC BRIDGE of the Alternator.
NOW! AC, in my description does NOT stand for AirCraft ... It stands for
Alternating Current.
This could also account for a fluctuating Ammeter.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 7
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--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Gary... it's $185 from Aircraft Spruce.....
I guess I was lucky when I got it for about $85 when they first came out....
It was quite a price jump they had.... gil in Tucson
\At 01:51 PM 8/29/2005, you wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
>The K&N Filter STC'd for the Tiger is K&N PN E1000 from any auto parts store.
> It fits a bunch of Chryselr products and a few GM products. It's
> $31.95.
> The Recharge kit for it is $9.00.
>
>It's the STC that's expensive. $227.15 from Power Flow. Roughly $200.
>
>
>The HC STC from Precision is only $500.
>
>That's expensive paper.....
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: second try ... Ammeter needle wiggle |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 8/29/05 5:52:06 PM, FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
> NOW! AC, in my description does NOT stand for AirCraft ... It stands for
> Alternating Current.
>
it stands for alternator controller
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