TeamGrumman-List Digest Archive

Tue 02/21/06


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:00 AM - Re: Lifters and stuck valves (flyv35b)
     2. 08:21 AM - Alternator light in a '79 Tiger (Weir, Douglas (CALYON))
     3. 11:01 AM - Re: Alternator light in a '79 Tiger (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
     4. 11:10 AM - Re: Lifters and stuck valves (TeamGrumman@AOL.COM)
     5. 03:26 PM - Re: Lifters and stuck valves (flyv35b)
     6. 04:41 PM - Re: Lifters and stuck valves (James Courtney)
     7. 07:55 PM - Re: Lifters and stuck valves (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
     8. 08:06 PM - Re: Lifters and stuck valves (Gil Alexander)
     9. 08:13 PM - Re: Lifters and stuck valves (FLYaDIVE@AOL.COM)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:00:34 AM PST US
    From: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
    Subject: Re: Lifters and stuck valves
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com> Unless SB388C is different from SB388B in this regard (I don't think it is), there is nothing that deals with cleaning or inspecting the hydraulic lifters. Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: <TeamGrumman@AOL.COM> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:35 PM Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Lifters and stuck valves > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com > > > In a message dated 2/20/06 7:04:33 PM, gilalex@earthlink.net writes: > > >> Gary... doesn't=A0=A0 SB388C also call out a cleaning of the lifters at >> the >> same time as the infamous "wobble check"?? >> >> If so, should be done every 400 hrs (old cylinders...)=A0 ....gil=20in >> Tucson >> > > Well, yes, I guess it does. Hadn't thought of it. > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:21:36 AM PST US
    From: "Weir, Douglas (CALYON)" <Douglas.Weir@us.calyon.com>
    Subject: Alternator light in a '79 Tiger
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Weir, Douglas (CALYON)" <Douglas.Weir@us.calyon.com> Gary, Can you please remind me what the alternator light on the panel is supposed to be telling me? I know that it comes on when the alernator side of the split master is switched OFF, but other than that, I have never seen it come on despite multiple alternator related problems. FWIW, I have had the alternator replaced once (not sure what the problem was), I have had a broken output terminal another time, and had a broken wire from the VR to the alternator most recently. None of these failures caused the ALT light on the control panel to illuminate, but each of them caused me to lose my alternator power. Thanks and regards, Doug *** Calyon **************************************************** This message and/or any attachments (the "message") is intended for the sole use of its addressee. If you are not the addressee, please immediately notify the sender and then destroy the message. The unauthorized disclosure, use, dissemination or copying (either whole or partial) of this e-mail, or any information it contains, is prohibited. E-mails are susceptible to alteration and their integrity cannot be guaranteed. As this message and/or any attachments may have been altered without our knowledge, its content is not legally binding on CALYON Corporate and Investment Bank. All rights reserved.


    Message 3


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    Time: 11:01:36 AM PST US
    From: TeamGrumman@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Alternator light in a '79 Tiger
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com In a message dated 2/21/06 8:22:09 AM, Douglas.Weir@us.calyon.com writes: > Can you please remind me what the alternator light on the panel is supposed > to be telling me? > > I know that it comes on when the alernator side of the split master is > switched OFF, but other than that, I have never seen it come on despite > multiple alternator related problems.=A0 > Oddly enough, it only tells you WHEN the alternator switch is on. Other than that, it doesn't do anything. Look at the wiring diagram on my web site. You can see that it is wired (powered by) the nav lights. I have had problems with the nav lights blowing a fuse and it turned out to be the idiot light. Completely remove all of the wiring associated with the idiot light and the over-voltage relay. ALL of the wiring. Install a Zeftronics alternator controller with the built-in over-voltage sensor. Wire up the "I" terminal the way they show it in the STC paperwork (to one of the indicator lights for the Precise Flight vacuum gauge) and it will work just like the idiot light you=20now have. It is a LOT simpler and doesn't use the nav lights for power. On a side note, just because the alternator light in a car tell you when the alternator is charging, that doesn't mean that aircraft have the same level=20of technology. Oh, yes, I know, idiot lights for alternators on cars started showing up in 1963, BUT, they aren't approved for aircraft. On my first Cheetah, I wired up an idiot light that showed when the alternator was putting out power. I copied the wiring diagram out of a 1968 Motors Book (if you're old enough to remember that...) for a 1968 Ford. It worked. I had it in there for almost 15 years. I took it out when I sold the plane. I talked to an engineeer at Zeftronics and he said they were planning on a revision of the R15V00 regulator for which the "I" terminal also showed low voltage. I think Bob Stewart has wired up the basic R15V00 to show low voltage but I never got a wiring diagram to see how he did it. Maybe you can ask him. Gary


    Message 4


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    Time: 11:10:58 AM PST US
    From: TeamGrumman@AOL.COM
    Subject: Re: Lifters and stuck valves
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com In a message dated 2/21/06 6:01:12 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes: > Unless SB388C is different from SB388B in this regard (I don't think it > is), > there is nothing that deals with cleaning or inspecting the hydraulic > lifters > Part One, Paragraph 4 "4. All Engines: Remove push rods, shroud tubes and hydraulic tappet assemblies. Disassemble tappet and clean as described in the applicable overhaul manual." The caveat is, the overhaul manual is vague on how to clean. ALL of the lifters (tappets) in the engine I mentioned were stuck. Even after bleeding the oil out of the tappets, I could NOT compress them; not even a few thousanths of an inch. I have no doubt that the valves were not closing like they should. I soaked them in carburetor cleaner over night and that still did not loosen them all up. I'm still going to be looking closer at the dry tappet clearance in the future. Gary


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:26:31 PM PST US
    From: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
    Subject: Re: Lifters and stuck valves
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com> You are so right Gary, I overlooked that paragraph! Why where the lifter stuck? Varnished up, rusted or what? Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: <TeamGrumman@AOL.COM> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:10 AM Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Lifters and stuck valves > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com > > > In a message dated 2/21/06 6:01:12 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com > writes: > > >> Unless SB388C is different from SB388B in this regard (I don't think it >> is), >> there is nothing that deals with cleaning or inspecting the hydraulic >> lifters >> > > Part One, Paragraph 4 > > "4. All Engines: Remove push rods, shroud tubes and hydraulic tappet > assemblies. Disassemble tappet and clean as described in the applicable > overhaul > manual." > > The caveat is, the overhaul manual is vague on how to clean. > > ALL of the lifters (tappets) in the engine I mentioned were stuck. Even > after bleeding the oil out of the tappets, I could NOT compress them; not > even a > few thousanths of an inch. I have no doubt that the valves were not > closing > like they should. > > I soaked them in carburetor cleaner over night and that still did not > loosen > them all up. > > I'm still going to be looking closer at the dry tappet clearance in the > future. > > Gary > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:41:20 PM PST US
    From: "James Courtney" <jamey@jamescourtney.net>
    Subject: Lifters and stuck valves
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "James Courtney" <jamey@jamescourtney.net> Gary put me to work cleaning these up for #3 before we moved the plane to Auburn so I believe I'm qualified (modulo my imperfect memory) to answer:) They were varnished and once cleaned of this they seemed to work quite well and there was no apparent corrosion or pitting on the two I worked with. Jamey AA5B N72T (the plane with the sticky lifters) A36 N7218R -----Original Message----- From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of flyv35b Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:24 PM Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Lifters and stuck valves --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" --> <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com> You are so right Gary, I overlooked that paragraph! Why where the lifter stuck? Varnished up, rusted or what? Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: <TeamGrumman@AOL.COM> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:10 AM Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Lifters and stuck valves > --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com > > > In a message dated 2/21/06 6:01:12 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com > writes: > > >> Unless SB388C is different from SB388B in this regard (I don't think >> it is), there is nothing that deals with cleaning or inspecting the >> hydraulic lifters >> > > Part One, Paragraph 4 > > "4. All Engines: Remove push rods, shroud tubes and hydraulic tappet > assemblies. Disassemble tappet and clean as described in the > applicable overhaul manual." > > The caveat is, the overhaul manual is vague on how to clean. > > ALL of the lifters (tappets) in the engine I mentioned were stuck. Even > after bleeding the oil out of the tappets, I could NOT compress them; > not > even a > few thousanths of an inch. I have no doubt that the valves were not > closing > like they should. > > I soaked them in carburetor cleaner over night and that still did not > loosen > them all up. > > I'm still going to be looking closer at the dry tappet clearance in > the future. > > Gary > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:55:18 PM PST US
    From: TeamGrumman@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Lifters and stuck valves
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com In a message dated 2/21/06 4:42:14 PM, jamey@jamescourtney.net writes: > You are so right Gary, I overlooked that paragraph! > > Why where the lifter stuck?=A0 Varnished up, rusted or what? > > Cliff > They appeared to have varnish and carbon, similar to what you'd see on inside of a rocker cover on an old car that had hundreds of thousands of miles on it without changing the oil. Not sludgy. But, cake and baked on carbon and varnish. When I bought my plane, it had 1100 hours on it. 80 hours in the last 10 years. THe inside of the block had caked on sludge. It took hours to scrape it off. I poured about 10 gallons of fuel through the engine to was as much through as i could. The oil filter on the first few oil changes was pretty full of junk. So was the oil screen. The lifters and tappets didn't look that bad though. Gary


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:06:45 PM PST US
    From: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Lifters and stuck valves
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net> > >Part One, Paragraph 4 > >"4. All Engines: Remove push rods, shroud tubes and hydraulic tappet >assemblies. Disassemble tappet and clean as described in the applicable >overhaul >manual." > >The caveat is, the overhaul manual is vague on how to clean. My manual just says "use clean solvent" ... pretty generic...: ) gil A >Gary


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:13:15 PM PST US
    From: FLYaDIVE@AOL.COM
    Subject: Re: Lifters and stuck valves
    --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com In a message dated 2/21/06 10:55:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, TeamGrumman@aol.com writes: > I poured about 10 gallons of fuel through the engine to was as much > through as i could. The oil filter on the first few oil changes was pretty > full of junk. So was the oil screen. > > The lifters and tappets didn't look that bad though. > > Gary ========================= Gary: Fuel is a very POOR cleaning agent. And too expensive as well as flammable. Try Mineral Spirits, it works VERY well. You can prove it to yourself by cleaning an oil screen in gas and another in Mineral Spirits. The spirits will have the oil totally disperse. Also, when you let the spirits sit for a while the oil will separate from the spirits and you will have clean spirits to work with again. I know the engine was not run much, but this makes a good argument for MMO 1 hour before an oil change. MMO also cleans the tappets. Barry "Chop'd Liver"




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