Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:54 AM - Need baffling help #3 (Joe Ccunningham)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: Oil canning just forward of the tail tie down. (flyv35b)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: Split brake line (flyv35b)
4. 07:13 AM - Re: Need baffling help #3 (FLYaDIVE@AOL.COM)
5. 08:17 AM - Re: Need baffling help #3 (flyv35b)
6. 11:53 PM - Re: Need baffling help #3 (TeamGrumman@aol.com)
7. 11:53 PM - Re: Oil canning just forward of the tail tie down. (TeamGrumman@AOL.COM)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Need baffling help #3 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Joe Ccunningham" <Joetul@cox.net>
I had to have my engine rebuilt at 400 SMOH because the previous
assembler didn't use silk thread on the crankcase halves and it
developed an ever increasing oil leak.
Had the case overhauled and sent the cylinders out for overhaul. Shop
put it back together and runs great.
Only problem is CHT on #3 cylinder. In cruise it runs 365 but in climb
I can get it to 400 no problem.
Only way to keep it cooler is to throttle back lower the nose.
If I just nose over the temp keeps climbing. All other cylinders are
much cooler.
Before we removed the engine, there never was a CHT problem and the
baffles and seals are 2 years and 400 hours old.
Other than cylinder overhaul, what do I look for?
Is the tension of the wire on the cylinder wraps critical? (These are
tight).
Baffle mod maybe?
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil canning just forward of the tail tie down. |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
I don't ever recall seeing this on any planes I have look at.
I do have a customer who has a Tiger that makes a "popping" sound, possibly
oil canning when moving the end of the horizontal fore and aft. I have not
been able to determine what the cause is. I think it may be coming from
inside the stabilizer itself where the spar attaches.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: <TeamGrumman@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 11:44 PM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Oil canning just forward of the tail tie down.
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
> I leaned on my horizontal a few days ago and heard a buckling sound. Not
> the sound I would want to hear. Lifing up on the horizontal, I heard it
> again.
> As it turns out, the tail tie-down ring had been 'struck' at some point
> before I bought the plane. I have been ignoring the tie down ring.
> This was
> the first time I'd noticed the oil-canning.
>
> In the investigation that I expected would turn out to be damage in the
> vertical supports, I noticed a 'u' shaped channel doubler on the left
> side,
> vertically, halfway between the vertical support (that is the source of
> the service
> bulletin) and the forward bulkhead that was designed to be the forward
> support
> for the original Traveler.
>
> Anyone seen or heard of this?
>
> Gary
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Split brake line |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
Nope. Sounds like a real rarity to me. If it was a defective made tubing
it sure took a long time to manifest itself.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: <TeamGrumman@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 11:37 PM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Split brake line
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
>
> Here's one for the books.
>
> A customer complained of brake fluid dripping out of the weep holes on the
> bottom. I looked all over the brake master cylinders, flex brake lines,
> etc.
> Nothing. Several months ago, I put clean white rags under the pedals to
> see
> if I could find the source of the brake fluid. Nothing.
>
> So, this annual I pulled the pilot's seat, side panels and kick panels.
> The
> brake line is spline along it's seam (that's what it looks like) about 18
> inches forward of where it exits the cabin and goes into the wing. This
> location is just forward of where it bends to go along the corner of the
> cabin floor.
>
>
> Anyone heard of this?
>
> Gary
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Need baffling help #3 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 5/19/2006 8:55:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, Joetul@cox.ne=
t
writes:
I had to have my engine rebuilt at 400 SMOH because the previous
assembler didn't use silk thread on the crankcase halves and it
developed an ever increasing oil leak.
There are other methods of sealing the case halves other than JUST the silk
thread. Personally I feel the silk thread is a pass=E9 method of sealing.
My question would be: What type of oil are you using?
It has been reported that engines that have not shown any signs of leakage
tend to show leaks when Synthetic Oils are used.
Had the case overhauled and sent the cylinders out for overhaul. Shop
put it back together and runs great.
Only problem is CHT on #3 cylinder. In cruise it runs 365 but in climb
I can get it to 400 no problem.
Sounds like my Grandmother ... She would be alive to day if she wasn't dead.
Ya got to love the English language.
Really Joe; since the engine has been rebuilt, it sounds like it is going
through the break-in period. And #3 usually runs hotter than the rest.
Take a look in the archives on breaking in an engine. Basic rule: Don't
throttle back, add power and fly S&L. To this rule add, vary your RPM every=
15
minutes, enough to allow the cylinders to cool by something like 25 to 50 De=
g F.
This number is not etched in granite, what you are looking for is a cooling=
.
Only way to keep it cooler is to throttle back lower the nose.
If I just nose over the temp keeps climbing. All other cylinders are
much cooler.
Before we removed the engine, there never was a CHT problem and the
baffles and seals are 2 years and 400 hours old.
Other than cylinder overhaul, what do I look for?
How are the EGT on all cylinders, are the all close?
I wonder if the hydraulic lifters are at the correct height?
Is the tension of the wire on the cylinder wraps critical? (These are
tight).
What wire are you talking about? What are Cylinder Wraps?
Are they as good as a steak & shrimp wrap?
You make a good straight man. I crack me up ... These medications are the
best! ;-)
Are you referring to the lower baffling that goes under the cylinders? If s=
o
yes, they should be a close fit to the cylinders, the use of safety wire for=
securing will work for a while. But the S/S wire will slowly cut through th=
e
baffle holes. Someone made the great suggestion to use a PoP Rivet in the
hole, knock out the mandrill and run the wire through the Pop Rivet.
A trick that I do is to place a thin sheet of Silicone Baffle Material
between the aluminum baffle and the cylinder fins; then snug up the wire tig=
ht.
This way there is less vibration and the cylinder fins do not cut into the
aluminum baffle. This DOES NOT affect cooling.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
=
=
Baffle mod maybe?
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Need baffling help #3 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com>
> I had to have my engine rebuilt at 400 SMOH because the previous
> assembler didn't use silk thread on the crankcase halves and it
> developed an ever increasing oil leak.
>
> Had the case overhauled and sent the cylinders out for overhaul. Shop
> put it back together and runs great.
>
> Only problem is CHT on #3 cylinder. In cruise it runs 365 but in climb
> I can get it to 400 no problem.
> Only way to keep it cooler is to throttle back lower the nose.
> If I just nose over the temp keeps climbing. All other cylinders are
> much cooler.
How much cooler? It is normal for #3 or #4 to run hotter than the front
cylinders. Usually #3 and #4 are within about 10 F or so of each other.
365 in cruise is fine and 400 F in a climb is OK too. All of your cylinders
should be well broken in by 400 hrs, actually pretty well complete by 40
hrs. Do the lower spark plugs all look the same? Any signs of excess oil
consumption on #3. Excess blow-by past the rings will heat up the cylinder
and cause it to run hotter.
> Before we removed the engine, there never was a CHT problem and the
> baffles and seals are 2 years and 400 hours old.
>
> Other than cylinder overhaul, what do I look for?
Baffling that wasn't installed correctly. Holes at the rear of the cylinder
down around the pressure relief valve and in front of it and the base of the
cylinder. Flashing between the cylinder fins near the spark plug boss.
> Is the tension of the wire on the cylinder wraps critical? (These are
> tight).
Yes, this is important. Also the cylinder wrap from the rear side should
not extent to far under and around the cylinder such that it comes close to
the tapped boss for the CHT probe. It may need to be trimmed back a bit, so
of to match the inner cylinder baffle between the two cylinders.
Cliff A&P/IA
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Need baffling help #3 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
Could you send some pictures? Send them to TeamGrumman@aol.com
My first thought is, "Wait until the rings break in."
Keep the baffles tight around the bottom.
Look at my web site, www.AuCountry.com
click on TeamGrumman
click on the button on the left that says, "Restoration ..."
Scan down until you get to baffles. There are a lot of pics on baffle
installations there.
Gary
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil canning just forward of the tail tie down. |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: TeamGrumman@aol.com
In a message dated 5/19/06 6:01:19 AM, flyv35b@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> I do have a customer who has a Tiger that makes a "popping" sound, possibl
y
> oil canning when moving the end of the horizontal fore and aft.=A0 I have
not
> been able to determine what the cause is.=A0 I think it may be coming from
> inside the stabilizer itself where the spar attaches.
>
That's what I thought. lay on your back and put a like amount of fingertip
pressure on the area just forward of the tail tie down. Have someone move
the horizontal around until it makes a noise. I think you'll feel the skin
oil
can.
Gary
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|