Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:39 AM - lower cowling (Chad Miller)
2. 10:28 AM - Re: lower cowling (flyv35b)
3. 11:01 AM - Upper Cowling stiffener (Mark Miller)
4. 11:33 AM - Re: Upper Cowling stiffener (923te)
5. 11:58 AM - Re: Oil Temp Followup (teamgrumman@AOL.COM)
6. 12:20 PM - Re: lower cowling (teamgrumman@AOL.COM)
7. 12:28 PM - Re: Upper Cowling stiffener (teamgrumman@aol.com)
8. 12:37 PM - Re: Oil Temp Followup (923te)
9. 12:39 PM - Re: Oil Temp Followup (923te)
10. 01:35 PM - Minolta Camera for sale (teamgrumman@AOL.COM)
11. 01:37 PM - Scanner for sale (teamgrumman@AOL.COM)
12. 10:19 PM - Re: lower cowling (Gil Alexander)
Message 1
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Is there anyway to repair cracks in a lower cowling on a 1978 Tiger,
besides putting patches on the outside?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: lower cowling |
Yes, put the patch on the INSIDE and flush rivet it. The patch and cowl
skin can usually be dimpled to accept the flush rivet. Use AN426-3
rivets typically.
Cliff A&P/IA
----- Original Message -----
From: Chad Miller
To: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 9:37 AM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: lower cowling
Is there anyway to repair cracks in a lower cowling on a 1978 Tiger,
besides putting patches on the outside?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Upper Cowling stiffener |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Mark Miller <mark@edenfx.com>
There is a honeycomb stiffener on the inside front of the upper
cowling doors that has partially de-bonded from the skin on my 75
Tiger. I assume there is a simple way to re-bond them or is this
best done with rivets or some other technique?
Thanks all.
74090
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Upper Cowling stiffener |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
I believe there is a factory approved method for repairing this particular
debond. As I recall, the repair method is either in a SB or in the
maintenance manual. Check with Fletchair for a copy of the SB or Gary will
probably know....
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp Followup |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: teamgrumman@aol.com
yea, probably, but why would you cheap-out on an oil cooler? I've used
the 8406R on several installations (Citabria, Cheetah) and I really
like them. The 8406R is welded as opposed to vacuum brazed on the
cheaper ones. I've had too many leaky vacuum brazed oil coolers to
even consider bothering with them.
-----Original Message-----
From: airman@appledumplings.com
Sent: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 5:20 PM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Oil Temp Followup
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "airman@appledumplings.com"
<airman@appledumplings.com>
All,
I have tracked down the AK(Accessory Kit) put out by American General
Aircraft for upgrading the oil cooler on the AA5B.
The cooler used is the Stewart Warner 8406R. Apparently they never
produced this kit. Anyway the question I have is this:
There are other companies that have coolers,which are cheaper, that
have cross-over numbers to the 8406R such as NDM part 20002A and Aero
Classic
800075. Can these be substituted legally? what is the difference
between PMA and FAA approved?
Thanks Much ,
Thomas
____|____
/[ ]\
<:::::::::::::[<=o=>]:::::::::::::>
o/ \o
N74225 D73
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: lower cowling |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: teamgrumman@aol.com
Unfortunately, no. You're stuck with a patch. All 78 and 79 Tiger
cowlings will crack on the lower right side in the cooling exit ramp
area. The metal cooling exit ramps do not absorb enough of the
vibrations from the prop-exhaust pulses. The only way I know of to
recuce or eliminate future cracks is to replace the metal ramp with a
fiberglass ramp.
-----Original Message-----
From: tiger862@ligtel.com
Sent: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 9:37 AM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: lower cowling
Is there anyway to repair cracks in a lower cowling on a 1978
Tiger, besides putting patches on the outside?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Upper Cowling stiffener |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: teamgrumman@aol.com
I have sent the upper cowling to Fletcher to have it repaired in the
past. I tried one many, many years ag. It never came back, so, I
assume it never debonded again. I used a metal to metal bonding agent
used by the Experimental guys. I don't rmember what it was.
I have a complete upper cowling from my 78 Tiger that I'd sell for
$1500. It is in very good condition. It has a very nice 3-color Imron
paint job on it too. Although, I doubt it would match your paint.
-----Original Message-----
From: mark@edenfx.com
Sent: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 11:02 AM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Upper Cowling stiffener
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Mark Miller
<mark@edenfx.com>
There is a honeycomb stiffener on the inside front of the upper
cowling doors that has partially de-bonded from the skin on my 75
Tiger. I assume there is a simple way to re-bond them or is this best
done with rivets or some other technique?
Thanks all.
74090
________________________________________________________________________
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security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp Followup |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
http://www.rvproject.com/20040519.html
The above link might be if interest. This from an RV builder / flyer who
compared the performance of different oil coolers.
The Stewart Warner comes out on top and is considered by Pacific oil coolers
to be around 15% more effecient at cooling thant the NDM or aero classic...
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: teamgrumman@aol.com
yea, probably, but why would you cheap-out on an oil cooler? I've used
the 8406R on several installations (Citabria, Cheetah) and I really
like them. The 8406R is welded as opposed to vacuum brazed on the
cheaper ones. I've had too many leaky vacuum brazed oil coolers to
even consider bothering with them.
-----Original Message-----
From: airman@appledumplings.com
Sent: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 5:20 PM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Oil Temp Followup
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "airman@appledumplings.com"
<airman@appledumplings.com>
All,
I have tracked down the AK(Accessory Kit) put out by American General
Aircraft for upgrading the oil cooler on the AA5B.
The cooler used is the Stewart Warner 8406R. Apparently they never
produced this kit. Anyway the question I have is this:
There are other companies that have coolers,which are cheaper, that
have cross-over numbers to the 8406R such as NDM part 20002A and Aero
Classic
800075. Can these be substituted legally? what is the difference
between PMA and FAA approved?
Thanks Much ,
Thomas
____|____
/[ ]\
<:::::::::::::[<=o=>]:::::::::::::>
o/ \o
N74225 D73
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temp Followup |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "923te" <923te@cox.net>
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/FirewallForward.htm#Oil%20cooler
The above link is also a good comparison of the different brands of oil
coolers
Message 10
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| Subject: | Minolta Camera for sale |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: teamgrumman@aol.com
Anyone interested in a Minolta X700?
It has a motor drive that takes 4.5 frames per sec, 3 different zoom
lenses, and lots of filters. I had it overhauled by Minolta in 2003.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Scanner for sale |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: teamgrumman@aol.com
I also have an HP scanner and Printer for sale. I used them both
before I moved to Auburn. Once I got here, I bought an HP all-in-one
printer etc,
Scanner was the top of the line scanner in 2002. Printer was too, I
think. Best offer. If you can use them, let me know.
________________________________________________________________________
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security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: lower cowling |
At 12:19 PM 9/18/2006, you wrote:
>--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: teamgrumman@aol.com
>
>Unfortunately, no. You're stuck with a patch. All 78 and 79 Tiger
>cowlings will crack on the lower right side in the cooling exit ramp
>area. The metal cooling exit ramps do not absorb enough of the vibrations
>from the prop-exhaust pulses. The only way I know of to recuce or
>eliminate future cracks is to replace the metal ramp with a fiberglass ramp.
Gary... is the damage less with a PowerFlow exhaust??
The pulses should not be hitting the cowling...
gil A
>-----Original Message-----
>From: tiger862@ligtel.com
>To: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 9:37 AM
>Subject: TeamGrumman-List: lower cowling
>
> Is there anyway to repair cracks in a lower cowling on a 1978 Tiger,
> besides putting patches on the outside?
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