Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:20 AM - Re: baffle seals. (FLYaDIVE)
2. 11:58 AM - Re: baffle seals. (Gary Vogt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: baffle seals. |
Gary:
Don't you tuck the REAR baffle under the side baffles?
That way the inrush air pushes up both baffles against the upper cowl to
seal.
With the rear on top of the side baffles the rear can lift higher and above
the seal of the side baffles.
I also do my signature stitching sealing of the rear to side baffles with
unwaxed dental floss. It holds the baffles up, in the proper curve and in
contact with the cowl.
And then if the owner REALLY wants to get fancy - They - Can smooth the gap
between the rear and side baffle by cleaning the silicon with MEK and
applying a TAPERED seal of High Temp RTV. It is easy to use a straight edge
and go out about 2.5".
Barry
On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 3:19 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman@yahoo.com> wrote:
> What is this on? Looks like Van's baffle kit. I think the only way you
> can get those baffles to lay down like that is by carefully installing the
> cowling and then over time they deform to that shape.
>
> I think I sent out some pics baffles on a 2-seater I did. If not.
>
> I still like the way my baffles naturally lay down. By conforming them
> over baffle, they still seal tightly over the baffle. The only way you'll
> get leaks is by using just 2 or three rivets to hold the seal in place.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* flyv35b <flyv35b@minetfiber.com>
> *To:* "teamgrumman-list@matronics.com" <teamgrumman-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sun, July 10, 2011 9:20:35 AM
> *Subject:* TeamGrumman-List: Emailing: P1060262.JPG, P1060264.JPG,
> P1060266.JPG, P1000146.JPG, P1010080.JPG, P1060258.JPG, P1060259.JPG,
> P1060260.JPG
>
> Here are some photos of baffling with the seals mounting on the inside (the
> wrong way according to Gary). Apparently they seal pretty well as the CHTs
> are about 300-325F on a pretty hot day. Note the baffle over the top of the
> engine that seals to the nose bowl, and the wings that deflect the air
> smoothly around the spinner and inside the plenum. This provides for a
> "total" seal that is not possible with the stock 2 place baffling, and most
> likely provides as good of cooling as a fixed plenum over the cylinders.
> Way to much air on this plane which needs to be throttled to reduce cooling
> drag. The small original oil cooler with 2" SCAT duct is plenty adequate.
>
> Cliff
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: baffle seals. |
Done properly, you don't need to do anything special. I usually have the rear
under the sides initially to hold the back down. After that, it doesn't matter.
Also, I don't need to connect the rear to the sides because they fit without
any attachments. I've tried connecting the two together but it never fits as
well as when the baffles find their own relationship.
________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, July 11, 2011 6:17:54 AM
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: baffle seals.
Gary:
Don't you tuck the REAR baffle under the side baffles?
That way the inrush air pushes up both baffles against the upper cowl to seal.
With the rear on top of the side baffles the rear can lift higher and above the
seal of the side baffles.
I also do my signature stitching sealing of the rear to side baffles with
unwaxed dental floss. It holds the baffles up, in the proper curve and in
contact with the cowl.
And then if the owner REALLY wants to get fancy - They - Can smooth the gap
between the rear and side baffle by cleaning the silicon with MEK and applying
a
TAPERED seal of High Temp RTV. It is easy to use a straight edge and go out
about 2.5".
Barry
On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 3:19 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman@yahoo.com> wrote:
What is this on? Looks like Van's baffle kit. I think the only way you can get
those baffles to lay down like that is by carefully installing the cowling and
then over time they deform to that shape.
>
>
>I think I sent out some pics baffles on a 2-seater I did. If not.
>
>
>I still like the way my baffles naturally lay down. By conforming them over
>baffle, they still seal tightly over the baffle. The only way you'll get leaks
>is by using just 2 or three rivets to hold the seal in place.
>
>
________________________________
From: flyv35b <flyv35b@minetfiber.com>
>To: "teamgrumman-list@matronics.com" <teamgrumman-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Sun, July 10, 2011 9:20:35 AM
>Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Emailing: P1060262.JPG, P1060264.JPG, P1060266.JPG,
>P1000146.JPG, P1010080.JPG, P1060258.JPG, P1060259.JPG, P1060260.JPG
>
>Here are some photos of baffling with the seals mounting on the inside (the
>wrong way according to Gary). Apparently they seal pretty well as the CHTs are
>about 300-325F on a pretty hot day. Note the baffle over the top of the engine
>that seals to the nose bowl, and the wings that deflect the air smoothly around
>the spinner and inside the plenum. This provides for a "total" seal that is not
>possible with the stock 2 place baffling, and most likely provides as good of
>cooling as a fixed plenum over the cylinders. Way to much air on this plane
>which needs to be throttled to reduce cooling drag. The small original oil
>cooler with 2" SCAT duct is plenty adequate.
>
>Cliff
>
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