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1. 09:16 PM - Re: Baffles and such (Gary Vogt)
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| Subject: | Re: Baffles and such |
Barry,
It takes very little pressure to move the #3 baffle out if it's on the outside.
Try it yourself. It isn't rocket science. There is no way "The air will PUSH
out on the front baffle OPENING the gap/overlap and allowing air to escape. "
if the #3 is on top.
________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 4:42:20 PM
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Baffles and such
I don't see how that is wrong?
Think about it this way... As the air enters the top part of the engine...
Baffled area.
It rushes in and is pushing OUT in all directions.
If the REAR baffle is on the INSIDE <--- As per your explanation. The air will
PUSH out on the front baffle OPENING the gap/overlap and allowing air to escape.
Are you trying to say that the short baffle is STIFFER than the long baffle?
By a farts breath maybe - But you are putting the leading edge of the baffle
into the air stream allowing that air to get under the leading edge and opening
the gap/overlap.
BUT! By putting the front baffle INSIDE the rear baffle... The edge is now
trailing in the air stream AND even the farts breath of stiffness becomes a
sealed overlap.
This is using the SAME aerodynamics as should be used on the
soft flexible baffling.
Barry
======================
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 5:37 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman@yahoo.com> wrote:
"[Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about
the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear
baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be
an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap."
>
>
>WRONG!
>
>
>THE SHORT ONE HOLDS THE LONG ONE DOWN.
>On the left side of the engine, the front (#2 cylinder baffle) is long. It goes
>UNDER the short rear (#4 cylinder) baffle.
>On the right side of the engine, the front (#1 cylinder baffle) is short. It
>goes ON TOP of the long rear (#3 cylinder) baffle.
>=============
>
>
>"[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger
>thingy - Nose Fork?
>I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and
>back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel. "
>
>
>why? Oh, I see, so there is never an excuse to lubricate any of the rest of the
>moving parts.
>
>
________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
>To: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 1:41:02 PM
>Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Baffles and such
>
>
>On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>I don't know why it is that everyone (almost everyone) who installs baffles puts
>the #3 baffle on top of the #1 baffle. The short one holds the long one down.
>>
>>
[Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about
the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear
baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be
an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap.
It's too late to fix the left rear corner on this one without new baffles. It
will always bleed air here.
>
>
[Barry] - I like the way you smoothed things out.
Nose gear: so, the guy removing it says, "I know why it's so hard to remove,
they forgot to cut it out to clear the thingy on the strut. There. Problem
solved."
[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger
thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and
back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel.
Barry
>
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