Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:59 AM - Re-bonding a windshield (Gary L Vogt)
2. 07:13 PM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (George Douglas)
3. 09:15 PM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (Gary L Vogt)
4. 11:56 PM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (Gary L Vogt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re-bonding a windshield |
This was a first. -=0A=0ABackground: -I built a fixture to simulate the
installation of the windshield. -I use large area washers under the wind
shield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the b
ow and the windshield. -Each of the washers is located at the screw holes
normally used to the double-bead seal in place. -When installing the cla
mps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; tha
t way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. -This
method works really well. -=0A=0ANote: -the pics show the fixture in 2
006. -It's undergone a major upgrade since then.=0A=0A.... I had a custom
er come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it w
as completely debonded. -I said I could re-bond it. -I'd never re-bonde
d a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? -Right?=0A=0ADu
ring the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the
windshield to hold it away from the bow. -Whoever had installed the wind
shield didn't trim to fit on the bow. -The edge was anything but even wit
h the bow. -The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. -Once
before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow
. -The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well. -=0A
=0ASo, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow)
at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom
corners under the windshield. -What to do about the corners? -The corne
rs measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place. -=0A
=0ASolution: -I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6
hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed the
m in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. -While installin
g the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get
contact with the screws. -So far, it looks great. -=0A=0AWhen I remove
the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.=0A=0AOh, yea, I prefer the old
732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.=0A=0AGary
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re-bonding a windshield |
Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of
caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet
metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L
Vogt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield
This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the
windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a
uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield.
Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the
double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I
barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at
the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade
since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty
good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd
never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be????
Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of
the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the
windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even
with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once
before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow.
The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at
the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom
corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners
measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole
on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in
until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the
windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get
contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Re-bonding a windshield |
Actually, on a new windshield, I can make the windshield fit with the canop
y bow seal glued to the bottom of the windshield. -I don't have a pic.=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: George Douglas <George@oilh
elp.com>=0ATo: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, April 17,
2013 7:13 PM=0ASubject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield=0A
=0A=0A=0AGary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what
type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where
the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
- -=0A-=0ABest Regards,=0A=0AGeorge Douglas=0AAmsoil Distributor=0Aof
fice 407-856-1564=0Atoll free 800-887-6698=0Acell 321-663-5391=0Awww.oilhel
p.com =0A-=0AFrom:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:own
er-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt=0ASent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM=0ATo: Teamgrumman List=0ASubject: TeamGru
mman-List: Re-bonding a windshield=0A-=0AThis was a first. -=0A-=0ABa
ckground: -I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshie
ld. -I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform
.020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. -Eac
h of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-
bead seal in place. -When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I bar
ely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the
front of the bow is about .020 inches. -This method works really well.
-=0A-=0ANote: -the pics show the fixture in 2006. -It's undergone a
major upgrade since then.=0A-=0A.... I had a customer come in that had a
fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonde
d. -I said I could re-bond it. -I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the
past. But, how hard could it be???? -Right?=0A-=0ADuring the pre-fitti
ng process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hol
d it away from the bow. -Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim
to fit on the bow. -The edge was anything but even with the bow. -The
holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. -Once before installati
on, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. -The edge alon
g the bottom is very close to the holes as well. -=0A-=0ASo, I was able
to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front whe
re the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the
windshield. -What to do about the corners? -The corners measured betwe
en 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place. -=0A-=0ASolution:
-I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the r
ight. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I
got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. -While installing the windshi
eld, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with
the screws. -So far, it looks great. -=0A-=0AWhen I remove the screw
s, I'll put some RTV in the holes.=0A-=0AOh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RT
=========================0A
======
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Re-bonding a windshield |
On this plane, I will likely use the strip caulk like the original installat
ion. I've seen a lot of RTV around the base of the windshield. Corrosion w
ill start under RTV if used to seal the windshield to the boot cowl (windshi
eld coving).
Gary
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 17, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "George Douglas" <George@oilhelp.com> wrote:
> Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of
caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet
metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> George Douglas
> Amsoil Distributor
> office 407-856-1564
> toll free 800-887-6698
> cell 321-663-5391
> www.oilhelp.com
>
> From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumma
n-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
> To: Teamgrumman List
> Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield
>
> This was a first.
>
> Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshi
eld. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .0
20 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of t
he washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead se
al in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see th
e washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of th
e bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
>
> Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade s
ince then.
>
> .... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty g
ood shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd n
ever re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Righ
t?
>
> During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of t
he windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the winds
hield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with th
e bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before i
nstallation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edg
e along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
>
> So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) a
t the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom cor
ners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measu
red between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
>
> Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole
on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in u
ntil I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the win
dshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact w
ith the screws. So far, it looks great.
>
> When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
>
> Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
>
> Gary
>
>
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