---------------------------------------------------------- TeamGrumman-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 04/17/13: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 11:59 AM - Re-bonding a windshield (Gary L Vogt) 2. 07:13 PM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (George Douglas) 3. 09:15 PM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (Gary L Vogt) 4. 11:56 PM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (Gary L Vogt) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 11:59:44 AM PST US From: Gary L Vogt Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield This was a first. -=0A=0ABackground: -I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. -I use large area washers under the wind shield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the b ow and the windshield. -Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. -When installing the cla mps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; tha t way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. -This method works really well. -=0A=0ANote: -the pics show the fixture in 2 006. -It's undergone a major upgrade since then.=0A=0A.... I had a custom er come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it w as completely debonded. -I said I could re-bond it. -I'd never re-bonde d a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? -Right?=0A=0ADu ring the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. -Whoever had installed the wind shield didn't trim to fit on the bow. -The edge was anything but even wit h the bow. -The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. -Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow . -The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well. -=0A =0ASo, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. -What to do about the corners? -The corne rs measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place. -=0A =0ASolution: -I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed the m in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. -While installin g the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. -So far, it looks great. -=0A=0AWhen I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.=0A=0AOh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.=0A=0AGary ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:13:54 PM PST US From: "George Douglas" Subject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good. Best Regards, George Douglas Amsoil Distributor office 407-856-1564 toll free 800-887-6698 cell 321-663-5391 www.oilhelp.com From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield This was a first. Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well. Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade since then. .... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Right? During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well. So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place. Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great. When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes. Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process. Gary ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:15:16 PM PST US From: Gary L Vogt Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield Actually, on a new windshield, I can make the windshield fit with the canop y bow seal glued to the bottom of the windshield. -I don't have a pic.=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: George Douglas =0ATo: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 7:13 PM=0ASubject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield=0A =0A=0A=0AGary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good. - -=0A-=0ABest Regards,=0A=0AGeorge Douglas=0AAmsoil Distributor=0Aof fice 407-856-1564=0Atoll free 800-887-6698=0Acell 321-663-5391=0Awww.oilhel p.com =0A-=0AFrom:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:own er-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt=0ASent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM=0ATo: Teamgrumman List=0ASubject: TeamGru mman-List: Re-bonding a windshield=0A-=0AThis was a first. -=0A-=0ABa ckground: -I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshie ld. -I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. -Eac h of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double- bead seal in place. -When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I bar ely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. -This method works really well. -=0A-=0ANote: -the pics show the fixture in 2006. -It's undergone a major upgrade since then.=0A-=0A.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonde d. -I said I could re-bond it. -I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? -Right?=0A-=0ADuring the pre-fitti ng process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hol d it away from the bow. -Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. -The edge was anything but even with the bow. -The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. -Once before installati on, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. -The edge alon g the bottom is very close to the holes as well. -=0A-=0ASo, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front whe re the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. -What to do about the corners? -The corners measured betwe en 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place. -=0A-=0ASolution: -I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the r ight. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. -While installing the windshi eld, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. -So far, it looks great. -=0A-=0AWhen I remove the screw s, I'll put some RTV in the holes.=0A-=0AOh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RT =========================0A ====== ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:56:38 PM PST US Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield From: Gary L Vogt On this plane, I will likely use the strip caulk like the original installat ion. I've seen a lot of RTV around the base of the windshield. Corrosion w ill start under RTV if used to seal the windshield to the boot cowl (windshi eld coving). Gary Sent from my iPad On Apr 17, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "George Douglas" wrote: > Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good. > > Best Regards, > > George Douglas > Amsoil Distributor > office 407-856-1564 > toll free 800-887-6698 > cell 321-663-5391 > www.oilhelp.com > > From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumma n-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt > Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM > To: Teamgrumman List > Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield > > This was a first. > > Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshi eld. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .0 20 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of t he washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead se al in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see th e washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of th e bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well. > > Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade s ince then. > > .... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty g ood shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd n ever re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Righ t? > > During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of t he windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the winds hield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with th e bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before i nstallation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edg e along the bottom is very close to the holes as well. > > So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) a t the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom cor ners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measu red between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place. > > Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in u ntil I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the win dshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact w ith the screws. So far, it looks great. > > When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes. > > Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process. > > Gary > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message teamgrumman-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/TeamGrumman-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/teamgrumman-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/teamgrumman-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.