Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:45 AM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (George Douglas)
2. 09:53 AM - 406 MHz ELT (busdriver)
3. 09:55 AM - Re: Re-bonding a windshield (Gary L Vogt)
4. 10:39 AM - Re: 406 MHz ELT (Gary L Vogt)
5. 03:03 PM - Re: 406 MHz ELT (busdriver)
6. 08:20 PM - Re: 406 MHz ELT (Jim Parker)
7. 10:20 PM - Rudder springs (Gary L Vogt)
8. 10:28 PM - Re: Re: 406 MHz ELT (Gary L Vogt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re-bonding a windshield |
Thanks, that is what I planned to use, but just checking to see if you
came up with anything different.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L
Vogt
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 2:56 AM
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield
On this plane, I will likely use the strip caulk like the original
installation. I've seen a lot of RTV around the base of the windshield.
Corrosion will start under RTV if used to seal the windshield to the
boot cowl (windshield coving).
Gary
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 17, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "George Douglas" <George@oilhelp.com>
wrote:
Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type
of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the
sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L
Vogt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield
This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the
windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a
uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the
windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally
used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I
only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that
way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This
method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major
upgrade since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in
pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could
re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard
could it be???? Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge
of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed
the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but
even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled
twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield
was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as
well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow)
at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the
bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The
corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6
hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed
them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While
installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my
hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
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Message 2
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I have a 2001 AG5B Tiger and want to upgrade to the 406 MHz ELT. If anyone has
already done this, where did you mount your antenna? Thanks, Curt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398895#398895
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Re-bonding a windshield |
The strip caulk gets dry and then it leaks. -I've had the canopy bow seal
on my plane for 9 years. -No leaks. -Looks good. -I'll take a pictur
e today. -It's a little more work and you'll need to compensate a little
on the install of the windshield to the bow. -1/8 inch is fine. -The on
ly trouble I've had is the seal working loose if the surface isn't cleaned
really well on both the windshield and the seal. -I use DAP Weldwood cont
act cement.=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: George Dougla
s <George@oilhelp.com>=0ATo: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Thursd
ay, April 18, 2013 4:45 AM=0ASubject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a wi
ndshield=0A =0A=0A=0AThanks, that is what I planned to use, but just checki
ng to see if you came up with anything different.=0A-=0ABest Regards,=0A
=0AGeorge Douglas=0AAmsoil Distributor=0Aoffice 407-856-1564=0Atoll free 80
0-887-6698=0Acell 321-663-5391=0Awww.oilhelp.com =0A-=0AFrom:owner-teamgr
umman-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt=0ASent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 2:56 AM
=0ATo: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Re-b
onding a windshield=0A-=0AOn this plane, I will likely use the strip caul
k like the original installation. I've seen a lot of RTV around the base of
the windshield. - Corrosion will start under RTV if used to seal the win
dshield to the boot cowl (windshield coving). -=0AGary=0ASent from my iPa
d=0A=0AOn Apr 17, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "George Douglas" <George@oilhelp.com> w
rote:=0AGary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what
type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where t
he sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
- -=0A>-=0A>Best Regards,=0A>=0A>George Douglas=0A>Amsoil Distributor
=0A>office 407-856-1564=0A>toll free 800-887-6698=0A>cell 321-663-5391=0A>w
ww.oilhelp.com =0A>-=0A>From:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vo
gt=0A>Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM=0A>To: Teamgrumman List=0A>Su
bject: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield=0A>-=0A>This was a first
. -=0A>-=0A>Background: -I built a fixture to simulate the installati
on of the windshield. -I use large area washers under the windshield to m
aintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the
windshield. -Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally u
sed to the double-bead seal in place. -When installing the clamps, I only
clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I kn
ow the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. -This method wor
ks really well. -=0A>-=0A>Note: -the pics show the fixture in 2006.
-It's undergone a major upgrade since then.=0A>-=0A>.... I had a custom
er come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it w
as completely debonded. -I said I could re-bond it. -I'd never re-bonde
d a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? -Right?=0A>-
=0A>During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge
of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. -Whoever had installed th
e windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. -The edge was anything but ev
en with the bow. -The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice.
-Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on
the bow. -The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
-=0A>-=0A>So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshie
ld and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at
the bottom corners under the windshield. -What to do about the corners?
-The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in pl
ace. -=0A>-=0A>Solution: -I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the
left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes
and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners.
-While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield w
ith my hand to get contact with the screws. -So far, it looks great. -
=0A>-=0A>When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.=0A>-
=0A>Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.=0A>-=0A>Gary
=0A>-=0A>-=0A>===================
=================0A>t">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List=0A>=============
=======================0A>cs.co
m=0A>=======================
=============0A>matronics.com/contribution=0A>=
==========0A>-=0A-=0A-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?TeamGrumman-List=0A< --------------- M
ATRONICS WEB FORUMS Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0A< ----------- List Con
==============
Message 4
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The antenna is the biggest reason I have jumped on the 406 bandwagon. -Th
e antenna should be shorter but it isn't. -=0AOn 28747, I have both Com a
ntennas AND the ELT antenna inside the dorsal fin. -Never had a problem w
ith cross talk. -The ELT antenna lays forward. -The tip of the ELT is c
lose to the tip of the Com 2 antenna. -No radiation at the tip so no bigg
y. -=0A=0AIf the 406 antenna would fit inside the dorsal along with my tw
o Com antennas, I'd get one. -Still waiting.=0A=0AGary=0A=0A=0A__________
______________________=0A From: busdriver <clmiller@netzero.net>=0ATo: team
grumman-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 9:53 AM=0ASubj
ect: TeamGrumman-List: 406 MHz ELT=0A =0A=0A--> TeamGrumman-List message po
sted by: "busdriver" <clmiller@netzero.net>=0A=0AI have a 2001 AG5B Tiger a
nd want to upgrade to the 406 MHz ELT.- If anyone has already done this,
where did you mount your antenna?- Thanks, Curt=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this t
opic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398895
=
Message 5
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Thank you Gary.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398913#398913
Message 6
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The one on my plane is mounted under the dorsal fin, sticking out through a very
small hole. I've never had any problems with VHF interference, nor with GPS
interference. (GPS is mounted behind the cabin, aft of the "in-flight open"
position of the canopy.
Jim Parker
Sent from my iPad Mini
On Apr 18, 2013, at 11:53 AM, "busdriver" <clmiller@netzero.net> wrote:
>
> I have a 2001 AG5B Tiger and want to upgrade to the 406 MHz ELT. If anyone has
already done this, where did you mount your antenna? Thanks, Curt
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398895#398895
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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I've heard a lot of different way of changing rudder springs. -My favorit
e is wedging washers in the coils. -I laugh every time I read that one.
-What a waste of time and . . . - I won't say what I really think.=0A
=0AMy motto is: work smarter, not harder.=0A=0ASee the pics of how I do it.
-You can do both springs with just one seat out. -Obviously, it's easi
er to do with both seats out. -The bungie cords remove ALL of the tension
on the spring you want to change. -=0A=0AAll you need are three bungie c
ords and some vice grips. -Use the vise grips to remove the old one. -Y
ou'll figure it out. -The new ones pop back on in seconds. -Both spring
s can be changed in about 10 to 15 minutes (after the seats are out and onc
e you get started.)=0A
Message 8
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You're welcome. -Anytime.=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A Fro
m: busdriver <clmiller@netzero.net>=0ATo: teamgrumman-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 3:03 PM=0ASubject: TeamGrumman-List: Re:
lmiller@netzero.net>=0A=0AThank you Gary.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic onl
ine here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398913#398913
=
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