Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:38 AM - Re: Wiring Harness &$%@* (A. Dennis Savarese)
2. 10:22 AM - The Flight (KingCJ6@aol.com)
3. 03:01 PM - Yak 50 gear ram removal simplified (Dean Courtney)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Harness &$%@* |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <adsavar@gte.net>
Jim,
Excellent post. Where did you get the replacement 5 mm wires?
Thanks
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: <cjpilot710@aol.com>
Subject: Yak-List: Wiring Harness &$%@*
> --> Yak-List message posted by: cjpilot710@aol.com
>
> I recently changed all the wires in my harness. Lets just say it's a
> learning experience.
>
> There is a method and tips. I hope these help it go easier.
>
> 1. Pull all plug wires back behind the cylinder baffles
> 2. Use good strong nylon or better cord (1/8) for pulling wire though
> harness. Don't use safety wire as it galls on the edges of the harness
openings.
> 3. Disconnect the woven metal harness from the harness tube sections (19mm
> wrench), before pulling wire out or into the harness.
> 4. Start with the shorter wire (#1 #9 #2 #8) first. This makes getting the
> longer ones (#5 #6 #7) easier to remove. Replace in reverse order (longer
ones
> first).
> 5. When you pull an old wire out BE SURE to tie the 1/8 cord to the wire
so
> as to pull the cord though the harness as you remove the wire.
> 6. With the woven part of the harness disconnect from the tube section, it
> will be easier to pull the new wire though the tube sections.
> 7. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP TRACK OF YOUR WIRES VS STRINGS. LABEL THEM.
> 8. There is an electrician product for pulling wire though medal casing.
It
> looks like 'come,' white, very creamy, and very slippery. This will be a
very
> helpful getting the wire though. Its been mentioned before.
> 9. Make a special effort to streamline the point where you tie the cord
to
> the wire. I made several clove hitches 2 or 3 inches down from the end of
the
> wire. Laying the cord flat on the wire, I than use electrical tape to rap
> around the cord and wire, allowing the cord to pull the wire straight in.
> 10. Remember that #1 mag is the L mag and fires all the front pulgs. #2
mag
> is the right mag and fires all the rear plugs.
> 11. Be careful when pulling on the wire as it comes though the outlets of
the
> harness tube. Sharp edges can cut into the wire insulation.
>
> It took me two day by myself to do this. Any questions about how I did it
> you can get me at 386-467-3313
>
> Jim Goolsby
>
> "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety,
> deserve neither liberty nor safety"
> Benjamin Franklin 1759
> "With my shield, or on it"
> Trojan Warriors BC
> "The reason older men are like fine wine. When young, they are like
grapes
> until some woman stomps all over them."
> Unknown older man.
>
>
Message 2
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--> Yak-List message posted by: KingCJ6@aol.com
Not sure who wrote this, but it's a good story anyway:
Subject: The Flight
>
>I sat in my seat of the Boeing 767 waiting for everyone to hurry and stow
>their carry-ons and grab a seat so we could start what I was sure to be a
>long, uneventful flight home. With the huge capacity and slow moving people
>taking their time to stuff luggage far too big for the overhead and never
>paying much attention to holding up the growing line behind them, I simply
>shook my head knowing that this flight was not starting out very well.
>
>I was anxious to get home to see my loved ones so I was focused on "my"
>issues and just felt like standing up and yelling for some of these
>clowns
>to get their act together. I knew I couldn't say a word so I just thumbed
>thru the "Sky Mall" magazine from the seat pocket in front of me. You know
>it's really getting rough when you resort to the over priced, useless sky
>mall crap to break the monotony. With everyone finally seated, we just
>sat
>there with the cabin door open and no one in any hurry to get us going
>although we were well past the scheduled take off time. No wonder the
>airline industry is in trouble I told myself. Just then, the attendant came
>on the intercom to inform us all that we were being delayed. The entire
>plane let out a collective groan. She resumed speaking to say "We are
>holding the aircraft for some very special people who are on their way to
>the plane and the delay shouldn't be more than 5 minutes. The word
>came after waiting six times as long as we were promised that "I" was
>finally going to be on my way home. Why the hoopla over "these" folks? I
>was expecting some celebrity or sport figure to be the reason for the hold
>up.........Just get their butts in a seat and lets hit the gas I thought.
>The attendant came back on the speaker to announce in a loud and excited
>voice that we were being joined by several U. S. Marines returning home
>from Iraq!!! Just as they walked onboard, the entire plane erupted into
>applause. The men were a bit taken by surprise by the 340 people cheering
>for them as they searched for their seats. They were having their hands
>shook and touched by almost everyone who was within an arm's distance of
>them as they passed down the aisle. One elderly woman kissed the hand of
>one
>of the Marines as he passed by her. The applause, whistles and cheering
>didn't stop for a long time. When we were finally airborne, "I" was not
>the only civilian checking his conscience as to the delays in "me" getting
>home, finding my easy
>chair, a cold beverage and the remote in my hand.
>
>These men had done for all of us and I had been complaining silently about
>"me" and "my" issues. I took for granted the everyday freedoms I enjoy and
>the conveniences of the American way of life I took for granted others
>paid the price for my ability to moan and complain about a few minutes
>delay
>to "me" those Heroes going home to their loved ones.
>I attempted to get my selfish outlook back in order and minutes before we
>landed I suggested to the attendant that she announce over the speaker a
>request for everyone to remain in their seats until our hero's were allowed
>to gather their things and be first off the plane. The cheers and applause
>continued until the last Marine stepped off and we all rose
>to go about our too often taken for granted everyday freedoms......... I
>felt proud of them. I felt it an honor and a privilege to be among the
>first to welcome them home and say Thank You for a job well done. I
>vowed
>that I will never forget that flight nor the lesson learned. I can't say
>it
>enough, THANK YOU to those Veterans and active servicemen
>and women who may read this and a prayer for those who cannot because they
>are no longer with us. GOD BLESS AMERICA! WELCOME HOME! AND THANKS FOR
>A
>JOB WELL DONE !!!!!
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Yak 50 gear ram removal simplified |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Dean Courtney" <deancourtney696@hotmail.com>
Yak 50 caretakers,
If you ever decide to pull your landing gear rams for
overhaul/cleaning/preventative maint. (seeing as how its the only thing
between you and a belly landing, please do it soon) give the following a
try, it may save you 2, 14 hour days under your airplane.
Use my procedure and you can have them out in 1 hour total.
Pull the rectangular panel immediately behind the gear pivot & both round
panels on each side of it.
Reach inside the round holes, and go forward toward the leading edge. you
will find a lightening hole in the rib on each side of the gear. This is how
you will acces the front bolt. You simply need to aline the bolt with the
lighting hole by slightly retracting it, just enought to break the down
locks loose and the top of the gear will aline with these holes, in fact one
half of the down lock will form a pocket for your 12mm sockets to rest in,
there is enough room inside the wing above these round acces panels to go in
with a full sized part of dikes, or needle nose plyers to remove the cotter
pin, and then use two ratcets to remove the nut & bolt.
Next push the gear back forward by hand to the down and locked postion, even
with the bolt removed this will recompress the piston inside the ram makeing
the total lenght of the ram as short as posible, alternatively you could
introduse air to the check valved (front) end of the ram and the piston will
retract its self.
Next remove the access panel at the front of the gear well & pull the rear
ram mounting bolt at the uplock, then simply pull the ram aft untill the
check valve hits at the bottom on the round hole it passes though simply
turn the ram 90 degrees (back end toward the ground) and the top of the ram
will come out and allow you to pull the check valve though the hole. NOTE:
depending on if your airplane still has the cloth seal around this rear
hole, or if the top of the ram will not exit the hole due to the clevis that
threads in to it being to long. You will need to remove the clevis that
screws into the end of the piston. Simply push the ram back forward towards
its normal position, untill the clevis, and its lock nut and safety wire is
easy to get to (there is room to spin the ram even with the check valve on
it) FIRST to make reinstallation simpler, count the number on threads from
the lock nut to the end of the the threads, write it down for later use, as
when you go to reinstall the ram, and need to rig the clevis you can simply
reinstall it to the same depth by screwing it in untill you have the same
number of thread exposed, assuming it was rigged correctly before) NOW use
the rectangular inspection cover to reach in and cut the safety wire, back
the 19mm nut off (be sure to catch the little locking post/insert that rides
in the slot of the clevis-it's the thing that the 19mm nut was safetyed to)
And then unscrew the clevis from the piston, doing this WILL make the ram
short enough to remove as I descrbed above.
When you go to put the ram back in, insert it though the hole in the gear
well you removed it from, reinstall the clevis & safety. Now remember how we
got access to that darn front bolt? We had to unlock the gear from it's down
lock. How are we going to do this without an acuator conected to it?
look up through the rectangular inspection hole just above the top of the
down lock and beond it. You will see a saddle, or U shaped assembly ( the
"U" will be faceing down) insert a round 1 inch pipe above the down lock
untill the end sets in this saddle or "U" (the pump handle from your wing
jack is perfect)
then pull down, this will unlock the gear and it will usally hang just
perfect to aline the bolt hole in the uplock; where the ram/actuator
attaches, with the lightening holes in the ribs (the same ones you used to
take it out) This is a very wordy way of telling you how to do it, but take
just minutes to do and you can use full size tools, use both hands & still
use the rectangular hole to look through to see what you are doing!
All of the above assumes you have the airplane jacked up, some important
notes on that procedure:
Jack point inserts are 14mm, 1.5 thread pitch. Recent experience tell me
that you can find 14mm bolts at Home Depot but they DO NOT have 1.5 thread
pitch, they usually only have 1.25 or 1.75. so plan ahead. (I am also
working on manufacturing REAL jack pads for the 50, interested?) once you
have the jack pads/bolts installed I would recommend lifting the tail to
level by hand. One person CAN do it. Climb under the rear fuse put you back
under a reinforced area and, stand up. Then you can jack it straight up,
rather than putting the jacks under the wing, and lifting at an angle.
As you know the gear on the Yak work extremely fast, and with great force.
It WILL knock the airplane off the jacks at the very least, and kill you if
you get caught by it. The only way to detune this "slamming" of the gear is
to reduce the amount of pressure supplied to the rams. Bleed your bottles
down to no more than 20 K/cm. In fact for your safety you should empty the
emergency bottle by removing the forward line from the check valve on BOTH
gear rams, and then open the red emergency gear handle. The air will blow
out the open lines, also probably a good cleaning procedure for the valve
and lines considering the last time you used them was?
It has been stated that the gear should operate normally down to 15 K/cm,
and in fact if it won't. That is an indication of binding in the system or
advanced corrosion/crap in the rams. If you bleed your system down and you
gear won't work right, DO NOT recharge you bottle. First pull the normal up
and down hose connections from each end of the ram/actuator. In side this
fitting you will find a small disc with a tiny hole in the middle. Its a
flow restrictor, actually slows the gear cycle down (if you think they slam
up and down now, leave these little guys out. The gear would probably
retract though the wing!!)
With these restrictors out the remaining bottle pressure will cycle your
gear, ONLY do this if they are so sticky they will not move with the low
bottle pressure. I suppose you know you must do ALL this with the bottle
shut off. My suggestion would be to select the gear position you want, then
slowly crack the bottle open, hissing just enough in to the system to move
the gear the desired amount. Close the bottle, gear stops where it is.
Any other jewels of knowledge about this would be welcomed. My Yak learning
curve is pretty much a vertical line right now!
Dean Courtney deancourtney696@hotmail.com
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