Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:42 AM - Re: Alternators for the M14P (Brian Lloyd)
2. 04:29 AM - Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P) (Brian Lloyd)
3. 04:48 AM - 12 or 24 ? (David Stroud)
4. 06:10 AM - Re: 12 or 24 ? (Aubrey Price)
5. 06:21 AM - Re: 12 or 24 ? (Ernie)
6. 06:22 AM - Re: 12 or 24 ? (Ernie)
7. 08:49 AM - Re: Alternators for the M14P (Doug Sapp)
8. 09:17 AM - Fwd upper windcreen (KevLCo@aol.com)
9. 09:43 AM - Re: Fwd upper windcreen (Doug Sapp)
10. 12:42 PM - Re: Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P) (Ron Davis)
11. 12:52 PM - Re: Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P) (Ernie)
12. 01:36 PM - Re: 12 or 24 ? (N13472@aol.com)
13. 03:09 PM - Team Red Press (cpayne@joimail.com)
14. 04:14 PM - Re: Team Red Press (Terry Calloway)
15. 04:29 PM - Re: 12 or 24 ? (Gus Fraser)
16. 08:12 PM - Re: 12 or 24 ? (Bruce Campbell)
17. 08:15 PM - Recommended Yak mech for a stranded Yak in Chico. (Bruce Campbell)
18. 08:55 PM - Re: Alternators for the M14P (Brian Lloyd)
19. 09:04 PM - Re: 12 or 24 ? (Brian Lloyd)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternators for the M14P |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian@lloyd.com>
Rick Basiliere wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Rick Basiliere" <discrab@earthlink.net>
>
> I just got from B&C, a voltage regulator and I think the over voltage
> component was separate (came as two pieces). Kind of sky blue and about the
> size of a can of "Red Bull" only shorter. Respectfully, Rick
The blue can-like device is the filter capacitor, not an overvoltage relay. The
over-voltage protection circuit is built into the regulator itself.
B&C's 28V gear-driven alternator for the M14P (and adaptable to the Huosai with
a plate to house the shaft seal) is only 35A, plenty of power unless you are
running an electrically-heated windshield and a hot prop for deicing. ;-)
B&C does make a bigger alternator but it is belt-driven for use with Lycoming engines.
If you get a B&C alternator and regulator, get the temperature compensation option
too. It is only $90 but it will make your battery last a lot longer, especially
if you use a sealed gel or AGM battery.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza, Suite 201
brian@lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 - voice +1.360.838.9669 - fax
GMT-4
Message 2
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| Subject: | Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P) |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian@lloyd.com>
Ernie wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
>
> I found out what you meant first hand this weekend while flying a a local
> airshow. My L-29 has 2 new 650 CCA Die Hards which on a good day will start
> me at around 690 Degrees EGT. While my buddy this weekend using the Hawkers
> consistently started some where around 560 degrees. I'm sold, just waiting
> for a battery box.
Turbine engines need a *LOT* of current and need to keep the voltage high to get
the compressor RPM high enough to avoid a hot start. This means you need batteries
with very low internal resistance so the voltage doesn't drop while spooling
up the gas generator shaft. The original battery to have this kind of
low resistance was NiCd but they are expensive and come with their own set of
problems. AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries, especially the newer ones with
spiral-wound foil plates (they are cylindrical) have very low internal resistance
and will produce huge amounts of current while still keeping the voltage up,
just the ticket for starting turbine engines.
Standard flooded-cell (wet) type batteries do not have low internal resistance
unless you make them big so they would not be the best choice for starting turbine
engines.
OTOH, battery capacity (total energy storage) depends on just how much lead and
electrolyte you have. If you want the battery to provide power for a long time
after the generator has failed you need a bigger battery.
The Yak-52 and CJ do not need much starting current since the compressed air system
does the work. OTOH these are all-electric airplanes and if you want things
to keep running you need a lot of battery capacity. Frankly, gelled electrolyte
batteries (gel-cells) are ideal for these aircraft. The turbine-powered
aircraft should not consider using anything except AGM batteries.
The only issue with using any sealed battery, gel or AGM, is that you must be careful
to charge them properly. They will quickly die if they are overcharged.
Hot weather or a hot battery will lead to overcharging and early battery death.
This could be a real problem for our turbine-powered brethren. Conversely
a cold battery will never be fully charged which will also damage the battery
in the long run. Flooded-cell batteries are much more resistant to damage
from overcharging because you can add water to them. (And if you find you have
to add water every couple of weeks or so, that means you are definitely overcharging.)
Charging voltage needs to be adjusted downward when it is hot and
upward when it is cold. That is why the B&C alternator controller/regulator has
a temperature compensation option. It automatically adjusts the charging voltage
to meet the needs of the battery ensuring a full charge without overcharging.
I have done a lot of battery research for my boat and for the back-up electrical
system in my Comanche. (Electrical system failure while doing hard IFR tends
to bother me.) I will be happy to share more info if people are interested.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza, Suite 201
brian@lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 - voice +1.360.838.9669 - fax
GMT-4
Message 3
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
Volts, Brian...not beer...
Does anyone have an opinion on the advantages of a 12 or 24 volt system if one
had the option at the get go?
With homebuilts, we can pretty much build as we want as long as it's done safely
and good common practice
is observed. I've got to make a choice between 12 or 24 volts soon and no doubt
the Housai will come with 24 v alt.
If B&C can supply alts for the Housai too, I'm thinking that it wouldn't take much
to go to 12 v at the start with a
modified B&C type product. Thanks for any views.
Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
Fairchild 51, early construction
Message 4
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Aubrey Price <aprice@vartec.net>
It would depend on how much power you need. The higher the voltage the more
you can get through a given size of wire with less loss. ( 12 Volts X 10Amps
= 120Watts )( 24 Volts X 10Amps = 240Watts )If you are trying to start a 180
Lycoming in a homebuilt that is only going to have a few feet of wire, 12
volts are find. I used to fly a Rockwell Sabreliner that was 24 volts, but
the start cycle put the batteries in series to get 48 volts because it took
lots of amps and the wire runs were long. Hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Stroud [mailto:davestroud@rogers.com]
Subject: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
--> Yak-List message posted by: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
Volts, Brian...not beer...
Does anyone have an opinion on the advantages of a 12 or 24 volt system if
one had the option at the get go?
With homebuilts, we can pretty much build as we want as long as it's done
safely and good common practice
is observed. I've got to make a choice between 12 or 24 volts soon and no
doubt the Housai will come with 24 v alt.
If B&C can supply alts for the Housai too, I'm thinking that it wouldn't
take much to go to 12 v at the start with a
modified B&C type product. Thanks for any views.
Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
Fairchild 51, early construction
Message 5
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
One of the reasons for the higer voltages is that it allows you to deliver
the same amount of power over a smaller wire. For example my boat has a 32
volt system (a real pain in the butt when I need to replace starters and
lightb bulbs). In the old days, mainy of the systems were very inefficient
with respect to energy consumption, like the toilet flushers, and other
water pumps. If you had a device which consumed 3000 watts on one end of the
boat and your batteries were on the other end of the boat, you had to make a
decision.
You could use a very thick wire to deliver the current over 12 volts, or you
could up the voltage and reduce the current demand and the size of the wire
in order to supply the same amount of power. When you've got several miles
of wire on a boat, the cost and weight of that wire can become considerable.
Now on larger airplanes the same issues may apply, but I cant understand why
you would need to worry about that on our little airplanes, except for the
fact the the aircraft manufacturers had certified parts to draw from.
But with todays modern electronics and eletrical systems I cant find any
reason to go 24v on an airplane. The wire runs are minimal as well as the
current demands, even on the all glass cockpits.
Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
Subject: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
>
> Volts, Brian...not beer...
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on the advantages of a 12 or 24 volt system if
one had the option at the get go?
> With homebuilts, we can pretty much build as we want as long as it's done
safely and good common practice
> is observed. I've got to make a choice between 12 or 24 volts soon and no
doubt the Housai will come with 24 v alt.
> If B&C can supply alts for the Housai too, I'm thinking that it wouldn't
take much to go to 12 v at the start with a
> modified B&C type product. Thanks for any views.
>
> Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
> Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
> Fairchild 51, early construction
>
>
Message 6
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
oops, I didnt realize you were wiring a CJ. Your starting system is 24v I
dont think anyone makes a 12v air solenoid.
Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
Subject: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
>
> Volts, Brian...not beer...
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on the advantages of a 12 or 24 volt system if
one had the option at the get go?
> With homebuilts, we can pretty much build as we want as long as it's done
safely and good common practice
> is observed. I've got to make a choice between 12 or 24 volts soon and no
doubt the Housai will come with 24 v alt.
> If B&C can supply alts for the Housai too, I'm thinking that it wouldn't
take much to go to 12 v at the start with a
> modified B&C type product. Thanks for any views.
>
> Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
> Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
> Fairchild 51, early construction
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Alternators for the M14P |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
Brian,
Since you are out of the country I wont be too hard on you, but your
information is a bit out of date. B&C makes a gear driven 50 amp alt for
the 285 and the M14P now. I just purchased 2 of them last week. You are
correct that any of the B&C alts do require a seal plate if installed on the
285 engine. The seal plate comes stock on the M14 series engines, or can be
purchased from B&C $500.00 YIKES).
Always yakin,
Doug
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Alternators for the M14P
--> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian@lloyd.com>
Rick Basiliere wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Rick Basiliere" <discrab@earthlink.net>
>
> I just got from B&C, a voltage regulator and I think the over voltage
> component was separate (came as two pieces). Kind of sky blue and about
the
> size of a can of "Red Bull" only shorter. Respectfully, Rick
The blue can-like device is the filter capacitor, not an overvoltage relay.
The over-voltage protection circuit is built into the regulator itself.
B&C's 28V gear-driven alternator for the M14P (and adaptable to the Huosai
with a plate to house the shaft seal) is only 35A, plenty of power unless
you are running an electrically-heated windshield and a hot prop for
deicing. ;-)
B&C does make a bigger alternator but it is belt-driven for use with
Lycoming engines.
If you get a B&C alternator and regulator, get the temperature compensation
option too. It is only $90 but it will make your battery last a lot longer,
especially if you use a sealed gel or AGM battery.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza, Suite 201
brian@lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 - voice +1.360.838.9669 - fax
GMT-4
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fwd upper windcreen |
--> Yak-List message posted by: KevLCo@aol.com
I'm having a challenge with replacing the forward upper windscreen on the
-52. The rest of the panels weren't so bad, as these things go. This upper
curved piece is in there and just won't budge. I've got the forward and side
edges loose, but the frame is so weak that I can't get a good pull fwd to release
the back edge without putting a lot of stress on the frame. I've even tried
heating it, to soften the zinc tape, no help. I'm sure somebody has fought
this battle and has a victory story to tell.
Thanks in advance,
Kevin
Las Vegas
Message 9
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| Subject: | Fwd upper windcreen |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
Kevin,
Heating it just expands it and wedges it in tighter. Unless you want to
save it just get a large hole saw and cut a hole in the center of it. It
sometimes works better to heat it then cut the hole, then let it cool. It
normally will nearly fall out. If it is being held in by the sealing goop
try using a piano wire to free it from the frame. I have a new (uncut)
tinted Yak 52 "eyebrow" glass in my inventory if you need it. I bought it
thinking that it would be the same as my Yak 18 eyebrow, but it was not.
Always yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of KevLCo@aol.com
Subject: Yak-List: Fwd upper windcreen
--> Yak-List message posted by: KevLCo@aol.com
I'm having a challenge with replacing the forward upper windscreen on the
-52. The rest of the panels weren't so bad, as these things go. This upper
curved piece is in there and just won't budge. I've got the forward and
side
edges loose, but the frame is so weak that I can't get a good pull fwd to
release
the back edge without putting a lot of stress on the frame. I've even tried
heating it, to soften the zinc tape, no help. I'm sure somebody has fought
this battle and has a victory story to tell.
Thanks in advance,
Kevin
Las Vegas
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P) |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ron Davis" <l39parts@hotmail.com>
Keep in mind that many turbine planes (L-39 and Boeing 737, to name two)
spin the turbine with an air motor instead of an electric one. They take
little battery capacity for starting, like the CJ, and the battery needs to
be sized for reserve power. Both of the above have multiple generators, so
even that isn't a huge concern.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Lloyd" <brian@lloyd.com>
Subject: Yak-List: Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P)
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian@lloyd.com>
>
> Ernie wrote:
>
> > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
> >
> > I found out what you meant first hand this weekend while flying a a
local
> > airshow. My L-29 has 2 new 650 CCA Die Hards which on a good day will
start
> > me at around 690 Degrees EGT. While my buddy this weekend using the
Hawkers
> > consistently started some where around 560 degrees. I'm sold, just
waiting
> > for a battery box.
>
> Turbine engines need a *LOT* of current and need to keep the voltage high
to get the compressor RPM high enough to avoid a hot start. This means you
need batteries with very low internal resistance so the voltage doesn't drop
while spooling up the gas generator shaft. The original battery to have
this kind of low resistance was NiCd but they are expensive and come with
their own set of problems. AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries, especially
the newer ones with spiral-wound foil plates (they are cylindrical) have
very low internal resistance and will produce huge amounts of current while
still keeping the voltage up, just the ticket for starting turbine engines.
>
> Standard flooded-cell (wet) type batteries do not have low internal
resistance unless you make them big so they would not be the best choice for
starting turbine engines.
>
> OTOH, battery capacity (total energy storage) depends on just how much
lead and electrolyte you have. If you want the battery to provide power for
a long time after the generator has failed you need a bigger battery.
>
> The Yak-52 and CJ do not need much starting current since the compressed
air system does the work. OTOH these are all-electric airplanes and if you
want things to keep running you need a lot of battery capacity. Frankly,
gelled electrolyte batteries (gel-cells) are ideal for these aircraft. The
turbine-powered aircraft should not consider using anything except AGM
batteries.
>
> The only issue with using any sealed battery, gel or AGM, is that you must
be careful to charge them properly. They will quickly die if they are
overcharged. Hot weather or a hot battery will lead to overcharging and
early battery death. This could be a real problem for our turbine-powered
brethren. Conversely a cold battery will never be fully charged which will
also damage the battery in the long run. Flooded-cell batteries are much
more resistant to damage from overcharging because you can add water to
them. (And if you find you have to add water every couple of weeks or so,
that means you are definitely overcharging.) Charging voltage needs to be
adjusted downward when it is hot and upward when it is cold. That is why
the B&C alternator controller/regulator has a temperature compensation
option. It automatically adjusts the charging voltage to meet the needs of
the battery ensuring a full charge without overcharging.
>
> I have done a lot of battery research for my boat and for the back-up
electrical system in my Comanche. (Electrical system failure while doing
hard IFR tends to bother me.) I will be happy to share more info if people
are interested.
>
> --
>
> Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza, Suite 201
> brian@lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
> +1.340.998.9447 - voice +1.360.838.9669 - fax
> GMT-4
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P) |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
An L-29, has an electric starter which requires 200 AMPS @24V for the first
5 seconds then 400 AMPS for an additional 8-12 seconds.
Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davis" <l39parts@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P)
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ron Davis" <l39parts@hotmail.com>
>
> Keep in mind that many turbine planes (L-39 and Boeing 737, to name two)
> spin the turbine with an air motor instead of an electric one. They take
> little battery capacity for starting, like the CJ, and the battery needs
to
> be sized for reserve power. Both of the above have multiple generators,
so
> even that isn't a huge concern.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Lloyd" <brian@lloyd.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Yak-List: Batteries (was: Alternators for the M14P)
>
>
> > --> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian@lloyd.com>
> >
> > Ernie wrote:
> >
> > > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
> > >
> > > I found out what you meant first hand this weekend while flying a a
> local
> > > airshow. My L-29 has 2 new 650 CCA Die Hards which on a good day will
> start
> > > me at around 690 Degrees EGT. While my buddy this weekend using the
> Hawkers
> > > consistently started some where around 560 degrees. I'm sold, just
> waiting
> > > for a battery box.
> >
> > Turbine engines need a *LOT* of current and need to keep the voltage
high
> to get the compressor RPM high enough to avoid a hot start. This means
you
> need batteries with very low internal resistance so the voltage doesn't
drop
> while spooling up the gas generator shaft. The original battery to have
> this kind of low resistance was NiCd but they are expensive and come with
> their own set of problems. AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries, especially
> the newer ones with spiral-wound foil plates (they are cylindrical) have
> very low internal resistance and will produce huge amounts of current
while
> still keeping the voltage up, just the ticket for starting turbine
engines.
> >
> > Standard flooded-cell (wet) type batteries do not have low internal
> resistance unless you make them big so they would not be the best choice
for
> starting turbine engines.
> >
> > OTOH, battery capacity (total energy storage) depends on just how much
> lead and electrolyte you have. If you want the battery to provide power
for
> a long time after the generator has failed you need a bigger battery.
> >
> > The Yak-52 and CJ do not need much starting current since the compressed
> air system does the work. OTOH these are all-electric airplanes and if
you
> want things to keep running you need a lot of battery capacity. Frankly,
> gelled electrolyte batteries (gel-cells) are ideal for these aircraft.
The
> turbine-powered aircraft should not consider using anything except AGM
> batteries.
> >
> > The only issue with using any sealed battery, gel or AGM, is that you
must
> be careful to charge them properly. They will quickly die if they are
> overcharged. Hot weather or a hot battery will lead to overcharging and
> early battery death. This could be a real problem for our turbine-powered
> brethren. Conversely a cold battery will never be fully charged which
will
> also damage the battery in the long run. Flooded-cell batteries are much
> more resistant to damage from overcharging because you can add water to
> them. (And if you find you have to add water every couple of weeks or so,
> that means you are definitely overcharging.) Charging voltage needs to be
> adjusted downward when it is hot and upward when it is cold. That is why
> the B&C alternator controller/regulator has a temperature compensation
> option. It automatically adjusts the charging voltage to meet the needs
of
> the battery ensuring a full charge without overcharging.
> >
> > I have done a lot of battery research for my boat and for the back-up
> electrical system in my Comanche. (Electrical system failure while doing
> hard IFR tends to bother me.) I will be happy to share more info if
people
> are interested.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza, Suite 201
> > brian@lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
> > +1.340.998.9447 - voice +1.360.838.9669 - fax
> > GMT-4
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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--> Yak-List message posted by: N13472@aol.com
For a home built / experimental I would defiantly go with a 24 Vdc system. The
savings in weight / cost due to the smaller wire size is worth the effort.
But the
main reason is cost of used avionics, stobes, pumps, etc. As most home builder
use 12 Vdc systems the demand for 24 Vdc equip is low, check the prices at the
salvage yards.
Tom Elliott
N63727
Message 13
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--> Yak-List message posted by: cpayne@joimail.com
Congradulations to Team Red (Bob Watts, Terry Calloway,
Roger Modglin) for an article on them in Nov. Pacific Flyer.
Good exposure for RPA type aircraft.
Craig Payne
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Team Red Press |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Terry Calloway" <TCalloway@datatechnique.com>
Thank you for those kind words Craig. Hope to see you soon.
tc
Message 15
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Gus Fraser" <fraseg@comcast.net>
I have a stock 52 electrical system. I do have some 12V devices I use a
voltage converter which I got from aircraft spruce it is good for 4 amps
which is good for most small appliances, cameras etc. If you need more than
that then get an ex military one they are about 200 bucks used.
Gus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N13472@aol.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
--> Yak-List message posted by: N13472@aol.com
For a home built / experimental I would defiantly go with a 24 Vdc system.
The
savings in weight / cost due to the smaller wire size is worth the effort.
But the
main reason is cost of used avionics, stobes, pumps, etc. As most home
builder
use 12 Vdc systems the demand for 24 Vdc equip is low, check the prices at
the
salvage yards.
Tom Elliott
N63727
Message 16
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bruce Campbell" <baruch@intelligentflight.com>
My YAK and my Commander both use 24V.
It isn't hard getting "airplane stuff" for that voltage.
It runs the (electric) gyros in the commander better ttan 12V and has a lot
of room for voltage drop before things start going pookie and you have to
live on the battery.
Bruce Campbell
Yak 52 N82623
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gus Fraser" <fraseg@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Gus Fraser" <fraseg@comcast.net>
>
> I have a stock 52 electrical system. I do have some 12V devices I use a
> voltage converter which I got from aircraft spruce it is good for 4 amps
> which is good for most small appliances, cameras etc. If you need more
than
> that then get an ex military one they are about 200 bucks used.
>
> Gus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N13472@aol.com
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
>
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: N13472@aol.com
>
> For a home built / experimental I would defiantly go with a 24 Vdc system.
> The
> savings in weight / cost due to the smaller wire size is worth the effort.
> But the
> main reason is cost of used avionics, stobes, pumps, etc. As most home
> builder
> use 12 Vdc systems the demand for 24 Vdc equip is low, check the prices at
> the
> salvage yards.
>
> Tom Elliott
> N63727
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Recommended Yak mech for a stranded Yak in Chico. |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bruce Campbell" <baruch@intelligentflight.com>
I had to leave my YAK 52 in CIC during its ferry flight from HWD to
Arlington, WA. I live in WA.
The prop started surging badly. No problem with oil press according to the
gauges. But the surging was so bad the plane settled back on the run way
(*very* careful power application, BTW).
Does anyone know anyone local to Northern California that I could coordinate
with to get this thing flying again?
Bruce Campbell
Yak 52 N82623
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gus Fraser" <fraseg@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Gus Fraser" <fraseg@comcast.net>
>
> I have a stock 52 electrical system. I do have some 12V devices I use a
> voltage converter which I got from aircraft spruce it is good for 4 amps
> which is good for most small appliances, cameras etc. If you need more
than
> that then get an ex military one they are about 200 bucks used.
>
> Gus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N13472@aol.com
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: 12 or 24 ?
>
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: N13472@aol.com
>
> For a home built / experimental I would defiantly go with a 24 Vdc system.
> The
> savings in weight / cost due to the smaller wire size is worth the effort.
> But the
> main reason is cost of used avionics, stobes, pumps, etc. As most home
> builder
> use 12 Vdc systems the demand for 24 Vdc equip is low, check the prices at
> the
> salvage yards.
>
> Tom Elliott
> N63727
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Alternators for the M14P |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian@lloyd.com>
Doug Sapp wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
>
> Brian, Since you are out of the country I wont be too hard on you,
Oh, go ahead Doug. I can take it.
> but your information is a bit out of date. B&C makes a gear driven
> 50 amp alt for the 285 and the M14P now.
Whatever. It isn't listed on their web site and the 35A unit still is. Regardless,
instead of listening to me people could just call Bill Bainbridge at B&C
to get the straight poop.
> I just purchased 2 of them last week. You are correct that any of
> the B&C alts do require a seal plate if installed on the 285 engine.
> The seal plate comes stock on the M14 series engines, or can be
> purchased from B&C $500.00 YIKES).
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza, Suite 201
brian@lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 - voice +1.360.838.9669 - fax
GMT-4
Message 19
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brian@lloyd.com>
David Stroud wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "David Stroud"
> <davestroud@rogers.com>
>
> Volts, Brian...not beer...
Hey, I'm a techno-geek. Of course I think volts before beer.
> Does anyone have an opinion on the advantages of a 12 or 24 volt
> system if one had the option at the get go?
Since when haven't I had an opinion?
> With homebuilts, we can
> pretty much build as we want as long as it's done safely and good
> common practice is observed. I've got to make a choice between 12 or
> 24 volts soon and no doubt the Housai will come with 24 v alt. If B&C
> can supply alts for the Housai too, I'm thinking that it wouldn't
> take much to go to 12 v at the start with a modified B&C type
> product. Thanks for any views.
The answer is ... it depends.
If you want to use any of the Chinese equipment; e.g. gyros, etc.; you need to
stay with 24V/28V. (The battery is 24V but the system typically runs at 28V when
operating.) There is a lot more equipment available that runs on 14V. 28V
systems can use much smaller and lighter wire because the current is cut in half.
Also consider, most airplanes built today use 28V electrical systems. If you have
any significant loads, it will be easier to support them on a 28V electrical
system.
I am sticking with 28V for my project but will have 14V available using a converter
for things that just have to run on 14V.
--
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza, Suite 201
brian@lloyd.com St. Thomas, VI 00802
+1.340.998.9447 - voice +1.360.838.9669 - fax
GMT-4
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