Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:28 AM - M14 vent lines (Joe Howse)
2. 02:40 PM - Re: Vent Cover (cpayne1@joimail.com)
3. 04:50 PM - Re: Voltage Reg (Steve & Donna Hanshew)
4. 05:50 PM - Voltage Reg; WARNING (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
Message 1
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Joe Howse <joeh@shaw.ca>
I had the same problem after changing to the M14 on my CJ6,
found that with high power settings I would get oil blowing forward from the crankcase
vent that faces forward between the top cylinders.
I believe that the higher RPM of the M14 creates more crankcase pressure than the
H6A.
Cured the problem by duplicating the vent system used on the Yak 18T which is also
shown in the M14 maintenance
manual 72.50.00 page 2.
Internally, the Chinese oil tank is identical to the Russian one in the Yak18T,
so all that was required was to install a fitting to accept a 3/4" i.p. 90 degree
elbow to connect to a tee at the crankcase vent, then forward to the gearcase
vent
Cap off the fitting at the crankcase vent that originally connected to the oil
tank vent,
Then vent the oil tank overboard with a tube straight down the firewall to atmosphere.
The oil tank then becomes a trap for oil migrating from the vents.
.
Works great, I never did understand why the Chinese ran the oil tank vent back
to the engine.
Another tip if you have not discovered it, do not run the Russian generator rcp300m
through the Chinese magnetic regulator,
they are not compatible and will smoke the regulator unless the gen. wiring is
modified, easier to use the Chinese generator.
Joe Howse
Message 2
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "cpayne1@joimail.com" <cpayne1@matronics.com>
Jeff, et al:
For the M-14P forward gearbox vent (on a CJ) I used some
polyfiber filter material from an automotive application
(crankcase breather) and tie-wrapped around the gearbox
vent, about 3/8" thick. It keeps *most* of the oil in and
Florida bugs Out. Since I operate from a mud/turf strip, I
use all the protection I can get: Brackett air filter,
Marion oil filter, breather covers, oil cooler intake
screen, etc.
Another tip for a cleaner airframe and cowling is to install
a barb fitting to the Rear crankcase breather for 3/8" ID
hose and routed through a 3/8" - 1/2" barb-barb at the oil
tank vent fitting.
Craig Payne
Message 3
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Steve & Donna Hanshew" <dhanshew@cinci.rr.com>
Sorry for the delay. I have three I think and two that probably work. My
answer was a B & C Alternator. It solved the problem and I'm kicking out 28
righteous volts. Let me know if you still want them.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graeme Frew" <gfrew@attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Voltage Reg
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Graeme Frew" <gfrew@attglobal.net>
>
> Hi Steve,
> I don't know whether you got my last mail. I am definitely interested in
> getting a reg from you. Please let me know what price you would be looking
> at.
> Regards,
> Graeme Frew
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Voltage Reg; WARNING |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
In the "For What It Is Worth" category, I would STRONGLY recommend that
ANYONE who replaces their current Russian generator with a B & C unit also
invest in, and install, B & C's over-voltage protection kit option. Or...
you can go to Autozone and pretty much copy their exact design using parts
over the shelf.
Note: I am not advocating using car parts in airplanes. I AM saying that B
& C's over-voltage kit APPEARS to use an over the shelf automotive relay and
socket.... which in my opinion is no big deal given this application.
Their basic design uses a circuit where a zener diode conducts at the
voltage you wish to be considered "OVER-voltage". This conducting zener
then places a direct short circuit to a 2 amp circuit breaker. When this
circuit breaker opens, it interrupts power to a relay coil. When the relay
coil opens, it disconnects the output of the B & C system to your aircraft
and also PROVIDES power (battery power) to your over-voltage light.
Resetting the circuit breaker resets the system..... assuming that in the
process your zener diode did not blow too.... in which case you now have
LOST all over-voltage protection.
Point being? Without any form of over-voltage protection, (or notification)
a B & C regulator system failure can end up raising the voltage to well
beyond what it is supposed to be. This will typically boil the electrolyte
out of your battery (first) .... thus ruining it, and once the battery goes
and stops acting as a load, the voltage can shoot up high enough to start
damaging your Avionics..... Read this as:
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
If you had not guessed by now... I have seen this happen. (HiYa Hubie!)
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve & Donna Hanshew [mailto:dhanshew@cinci.rr.com]
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Voltage Reg
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Steve & Donna Hanshew"
<dhanshew@cinci.rr.com>
Sorry for the delay. I have three I think and two that probably work. My
answer was a B & C Alternator. It solved the problem and I'm kicking out 28
righteous volts. Let me know if you still want them.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graeme Frew" <gfrew@attglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Voltage Reg
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Graeme Frew" <gfrew@attglobal.net>
>
> Hi Steve,
> I don't know whether you got my last mail. I am definitely interested in
> getting a reg from you. Please let me know what price you would be looking
> at.
> Regards,
> Graeme Frew
>
>
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