Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:02 AM - CJ-6A Battery (Frank Stelwagon)
2. 05:22 AM - Leftward Drift (Frank Haertlein)
3. 07:41 AM - Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up (Jim Bernier)
4. 07:43 AM - Re: CJ-6A Battery (N4829T@aol.com)
5. 08:48 AM - Re: CJ-6A Battery (Ernie)
6. 09:20 AM - Re: Leftward Drift (cjpilot710@aol.com)
7. 12:00 PM - Re: Battery Set Up (Jim Griffin)
8. 12:26 PM - Stuck rudder! (Jorgen Nielsen)
9. 12:37 PM - Bulletins (Jorgen Nielsen)
10. 12:56 PM - Re: Stuck rudder! (Aubrey Price)
11. 01:25 PM - Re: Bulletins (cjpilot710@aol.com)
12. 01:25 PM - Re: Battery Set Up (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
13. 01:33 PM - Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up (Roger Bieberdorf)
14. 02:03 PM - Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up (Dave Laird)
15. 02:06 PM - Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up (Jim Bernier)
16. 03:04 PM - Re: Stuck rudder! (A. Dennis Savarese)
17. 03:06 PM - Re: Bulletins (A. Dennis Savarese)
18. 03:48 PM - Re: Bulletins (Jorgen Nielsen)
19. 04:02 PM - Re: Stuck rudder! (Jorgen Nielsen)
Message 1
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Stelwagon" <pfstelwagon@earthlink.net>
The two twelve batteries will always work better than one 24 volt battery. The
24 volt batteries all suffer from the same problem, the cell size is small and
any high rate charge or discharge tends to overheat them and shorten their life.
The idea of tapping between the two 12 volt batteries (24 volt battery)
for a 12 volt buss will work fine. If you swap the battery positions at each condition
inspection the life should be about normal. By all means use sealed
batteries either the AGM or the gell cells. The biggest problem with 2 12 batteries
is that the cost is higher but a sealed 24 volt isn't cheap either.
Frank
CJ-6A N23021
Message 2
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Haertlein" <yak52driver@earthlink.net>
Yaksters;
When cruising in my 52 there is a noticeable tendency for the nose to
creep to the left in straight and level flight. I have to fly right wing
down slightly to track straight. It doesn't seem to matter the heading
either......it always happens.
Any ideas as to the cause?
Thanks
Frank
N9110M
YAK-52
"On every question of construction (of the constitution) let us carry
ourselves back to the time when the constitution was adopted, recollect
the spirit of the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be
squeezed out of the text, or invented against it, conform to the
probable one in which it was passed." - Thomas Jefferson
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Roger,
I'm the type of guy that asks advise from everyone and uses the best,
in my mind.
I to have installed two 14 volt batteries and placed them in series.
Doug Sapp suggested to use the Odyssey batteries. 250 amps, made by
military standards. At least that's what the brochure says. Brian
suggested to use a battery balancer. Made good sense, so I did. I also
place a Battery Tender in line so I could keep the two charged to max.
when I'm not flying. The tender is in the CJ next to the batteries. I
use the external plug modified to accept the normal 110 volt household
current. System works great. Batteries are never low. With 250 amps. I
could lose the alternator and fly safe for any day trip. In fact, I know
of a PT-17 pilot who has no charging system in the plane. Radio,
electric start, and all he does is plug the plane in after each flight
and he's set for the next day. I've taken JPG's of the arrangement.. I
can send them if you like. I've placed the two batteries, two inverters,
tender, converter, and strobe power pack on the battery rack. Baggage
area free for baggage.
Jim B
>>> rogerbyak@yahoo.com 9/14/2004 9:01:14 PM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: Roger Bieberdorf <rogerbyak@yahoo.com>
Sooner or later it was to happen.....my expensive 28 Volt Gill Battery
died. I had enough warning to allow time to review the list archives to
detrmine what others are doing and ordered two 14 volt sealed batteries
that I will hook up in series.
In the CJ at this time I have a transformer that makes 14 volts off of
the 28 volt battery for operation of the COM and the Transponder. It
feeds a small 14 volt buss. I would like opinions as to if it makes
sense to keep this arrangement or should I feed the 14 volt buss
directly from 1/2 of the battery line up thru a center tap and remove
the transformer? Also, does anyone have some pictures of how they
modified their battery shelf (mine is where the old radio systems set)
to hold the two smaller batteries? rb
---------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6A Battery |
--> Yak-List message posted by: N4829T@aol.com
I agree with Frank on using two 12volt batteries instead of one 24V.. I have
two sealed 12volts batteries and haven't had any problems for 6 years....
Jim"Launch Pad" Plumlee
N31103/CJ-6A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6A Battery |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
Check out the Oddesey batteries @ batterymart.com. They are half the weight,
have twice the current output at 2/3 the weight at 1/2 the price. I bought 2
900 CCA batteries that are the size of large motorcycle batteries and use
them to start my jet. Thye cost me about $95 bucks each. They are AGM
batteries, which can operate in any position even upside down, and will
retain their charge for 2 years without charging.
Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Stelwagon" <pfstelwagon@earthlink.net>
Subject: Yak-List: CJ-6A Battery
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Stelwagon"
<pfstelwagon@earthlink.net>
>
> The two twelve batteries will always work better than one 24 volt battery.
The 24 volt batteries all suffer from the same problem, the cell size is
small and any high rate charge or discharge tends to overheat them and
shorten their life. The idea of tapping between the two 12 volt batteries
(24 volt battery) for a 12 volt buss will work fine. If you swap the battery
positions at each condition inspection the life should be about normal. By
all means use sealed batteries either the AGM or the gell cells. The biggest
problem with 2 12 batteries is that the cost is higher but a sealed 24 volt
isn't cheap either.
>
> Frank
>
> CJ-6A N23021
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Leftward Drift |
--> Yak-List message posted by: cjpilot710@aol.com
In a message dated 9/15/2004 8:22:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
yak52driver@earthlink.net writes:
When cruising in my 52 there is a noticeable tendency for the nose to
creep to the left in straight and level flight. I have to fly right wing
down slightly to track straight. It doesn't seem to matter the heading
either......it always happens.
If you hold your wings level and she drift left, you're slightly out of yaw
trim. Years ago before with early auto pilots on the 707s, before engaging the
auto pilot, we would;
One-set power,
Two-set pitch trim,
Three-set rudder trim, and finally-set roll trim.
Power setting trim is of course particularly important on muilt engine a/c,
but for single engine a/c the pitch trim is in responce to the power sitting
too, so when working out your pitch trim, always do so from the same power
setting. Sense the rudder trim on our a/c are not adjustable, you need to bend
the
tab until you get rid of the yaw. But because in changing yaw trim you will
also induce roll you may need to adjust and readjust the aileron trim tabs.
Work toward curing your roll problems last. Pitch trim misalignment is the
biggest drag producer, next yaw, than roll.
At least that's what I learned at the knee of some of the best "Clipper
Skippers" to ply the seven seas. The important thing is that it worked for me.
Jim Goolsby
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety, deserve
neither liberty nor safety"
Benjamin Franklin 1759
"The reason older men are like fine wine: when young, they are like grapes
until some woman stomps all over them."
Unknown older man.
"Kill them all. Let God sort them out"
Crusaders 900 AD
"With my shield, or on it."
Trojan Warriors, BC
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Set Up |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Griffin" <jgriffint28@cox.net>
I have had the problem that Brian suggested in my Chipmunk with uneven
discharge and the inability of the charging system to cope with uneven
battery drain. It was corrected with installing a converter and running off
both batteries.
Incidentally, I have 2 motorcycle batteries in my CJ and a converter for
the radios and it works fine. There is not a lot of capacity to run things
when the alternator gives out however.
Jim Griffin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Haertlein" <yak52driver@earthlink.net>
Subject: Yak-List: Battery Set Up
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Haertlein"
<yak52driver@earthlink.net>
>
> Roger;
> I have two gell cell batteries wired in series in my 52. Been that way
> since 2001 and their still going strong. Got em from Spruce as I recall.
> The batteries were about 24 bucks each....... :)
>
> Currently, I run a 28 to 12 volt DC converter for my 12 volt instruments
> (not a transformer, which is for AC).
>
> Years ago, I deferred to Bryan Lloyd's suggestion of not tapping off the
> center of two 12V batteries in series as he had some doubts about uneven
> charging of the batteries in that configuration. I should have known
> better and stuck with my original intention of tapping off the center of
> the two batteries. The trick with lead acid batteries is never to let
> them discharge fully. Keep them near full charge and they last a very
> long time. Basically, keep them near full capacity and I haven't had a
> problem.
>
> Frank
> YAK-52
> N9110M
>
> "I entirely concur in the propriety of restoring to the sense in which
> the Constitution was accepted and ratified by the nation. In that sense
> alone it is a legitimate constitution. And, if that be not the guide in
> expounding it, there can be no security for consistent and stable
> government." - James Madison
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jorgen Nielsen" <jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za>
Last Saturday when at the fuel bay I noticed a Yak taxying in followed
by the fire truck, so went over to check the story.
The pilot had climbed for height, then performed a loop, afterwards he
realised the rudder pedals / rudder was partially stuck, with some
limited movement. He returned to airport and declared an emergency,
concerned he would lose steerage etc. Anyway, after landing, the rudder
was OK. An AMO has now inspected the rudder and cannot find anything
wrong.
I did a quick check myself at the time, also then the rudder was moving
freely. My conclusion was it may have been the pax' feet stuck between
the pedal & the cable "tube", which is still in place.
Any ideas? Anyone else ever have a stuck rudder?
Also, does anyone know of a bulletin / AD that says the cable tube
should be removed?
Thanks
Jorgen
Message 9
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jorgen Nielsen" <jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za>
Hi again all
Following up on the stuck rudder pedal story, I have been asked to get
the detail on all the bulletins. I have a list of them, & searched the
net, but all I find are lists with cryptic descriptions - does anyone
have a list with the actual full description or detail of what must be
done?
Jorgen
Message 10
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Aubrey Price <aprice@vartec.net>
Good question. I noticed that my YAK does not have the tubes. I was going to
ask someone why. You may have answered the question.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jorgen Nielsen [mailto:jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za]
Subject: Yak-List: Stuck rudder!
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jorgen Nielsen" <jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za>
Last Saturday when at the fuel bay I noticed a Yak taxying in followed
by the fire truck, so went over to check the story.
The pilot had climbed for height, then performed a loop, afterwards he
realised the rudder pedals / rudder was partially stuck, with some
limited movement. He returned to airport and declared an emergency,
concerned he would lose steerage etc. Anyway, after landing, the rudder
was OK. An AMO has now inspected the rudder and cannot find anything
wrong.
I did a quick check myself at the time, also then the rudder was moving
freely. My conclusion was it may have been the pax' feet stuck between
the pedal & the cable "tube", which is still in place.
Any ideas? Anyone else ever have a stuck rudder?
Also, does anyone know of a bulletin / AD that says the cable tube
should be removed?
Thanks
Jorgen
Message 11
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--> Yak-List message posted by: cjpilot710@aol.com
At MTW Sergi last year, had all his -52 folks sawing off some of their rudder
cable cover for that very reason. Evidently it caused the lost of life 'back
in the USSR".
Jim Goolsby
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety, deserve
neither liberty nor safety"
Benjamin Franklin 1759
"The reason older men are like fine wine: when young, they are like grapes
until some woman stomps all over them."
Unknown older man.
"Kill them all. Let God sort them out"
Crusaders 900 AD
"With my shield, or on it."
Trojan Warriors, BC
Message 12
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
Just had to add a third opinion. I have personally seen where tapping off
the middle of a dual 12 volt battery pair (instead of using a 28-12 volt DC
to DC Converter) caused uneven charging and premature failure of at least
one of the two batteries. The person who's aircraft this is happening to
continues to operate in this fashion, and I have replaced one battery after
another because of this over a 3 year period. When I removed the
transponder from this 12 volt "tap" and instead used a dropping resistor to
operate it directly off of 28 VDC, the problem slowed down to where now the
battery only needs changing about once a year. Just the LOGIC of not doing
it makes sense. Having two batteries in series with one at a lower charge
than another is always going to end up causing an over-charge on one of the
two batteries.
My way of thinking about the problem is simply that most regulators operate
on voltage sensing. If the sense voltage is low, the voltage is turned up
by, thus also increasing the current flow. The two batteries are in
series... thus the current flow will be the same through BOTH batteries.
One of these two batteries is low on charge causing the low voltage that
started all this. This one battery will charge (the one that is
discharged).... fine...... but the OTHER battery is ALREADY charged and is
now exposed to an over-charging condition which is DEATH to Gell Cell
batteries. Boil out the electrolyte and it's doomed. This is what happens
time after time with my friends airplane.
It really does not matter how big the alternator is... the fact is you are
discharging one battery faster than BOTH batteries... which means to charge
one, you have to overcharge the other.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Griffin [mailto:jgriffint28@cox.net]
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Battery Set Up
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Griffin" <jgriffint28@cox.net>
I have had the problem that Brian suggested in my Chipmunk with uneven
discharge and the inability of the charging system to cope with uneven
battery drain. It was corrected with installing a converter and running off
both batteries.
Incidentally, I have 2 motorcycle batteries in my CJ and a converter for
the radios and it works fine. There is not a lot of capacity to run things
when the alternator gives out however.
Jim Griffin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Haertlein" <yak52driver@earthlink.net>
Subject: Yak-List: Battery Set Up
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Haertlein"
<yak52driver@earthlink.net>
>
> Roger;
> I have two gell cell batteries wired in series in my 52. Been that way
> since 2001 and their still going strong. Got em from Spruce as I recall.
> The batteries were about 24 bucks each....... :)
>
> Currently, I run a 28 to 12 volt DC converter for my 12 volt instruments
> (not a transformer, which is for AC).
>
> Years ago, I deferred to Bryan Lloyd's suggestion of not tapping off the
> center of two 12V batteries in series as he had some doubts about uneven
> charging of the batteries in that configuration. I should have known
> better and stuck with my original intention of tapping off the center of
> the two batteries. The trick with lead acid batteries is never to let
> them discharge fully. Keep them near full charge and they last a very
> long time. Basically, keep them near full capacity and I haven't had a
> problem.
>
> Frank
> YAK-52
> N9110M
>
> "I entirely concur in the propriety of restoring to the sense in which
> the Constitution was accepted and ratified by the nation. In that sense
> alone it is a legitimate constitution. And, if that be not the guide in
> expounding it, there can be no security for consistent and stable
> government." - James Madison
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Roger Bieberdorf <rogerbyak@yahoo.com>
Jim; Thanks for the comments; please do send me the JPG pics at rogerb@ruralelectric.com
I understand the "tender" to be a 24 volt charger??
the "converter" must be 24 to 12 volts??
but what do the two "inverters" do? Thanks, rb
Jim Bernier <JBernier@dart.org> wrote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier"
Roger,
I'm the type of guy that asks advise from everyone and uses the best,
in my mind.
I to have installed two 14 volt batteries and placed them in series.
Doug Sapp suggested to use the Odyssey batteries. 250 amps, made by
military standards. At least that's what the brochure says. Brian
suggested to use a battery balancer. Made good sense, so I did. I also
place a Battery Tender in line so I could keep the two charged to max.
when I'm not flying. The tender is in the CJ next to the batteries. I
use the external plug modified to accept the normal 110 volt household
current. System works great. Batteries are never low. With 250 amps. I
could lose the alternator and fly safe for any day trip. In fact, I know
of a PT-17 pilot who has no charging system in the plane. Radio,
electric start, and all he does is plug the plane in after each flight
and he's set for the next day. I've taken JPG's of the arrangement.. I
can send them if you like. I've placed the two batteries, two inverters,
tender, converter, and strobe power pack on the battery rack. Baggage
area free for baggage.
Jim B
>>> rogerbyak@yahoo.com 9/14/2004 9:01:14 PM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: Roger Bieberdorf
Sooner or later it was to happen.....my expensive 28 Volt Gill Battery
died. I had enough warning to allow time to review the list archives to
detrmine what others are doing and ordered two 14 volt sealed batteries
that I will hook up in series.
In the CJ at this time I have a transformer that makes 14 volts off of
the 28 volt battery for operation of the COM and the Transponder. It
feeds a small 14 volt buss. I would like opinions as to if it makes
sense to keep this arrangement or should I feed the 14 volt buss
directly from 1/2 of the battery line up thru a center tap and remove
the transformer? Also, does anyone have some pictures of how they
modified their battery shelf (mine is where the old radio systems set)
to hold the two smaller batteries? rb
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
I recently replaced my expensive Gill battery with another one. The
old one lasted 7 years!
I don't know if I will get that much time on this new one, but one can
hope.
This one, a Gill 243-S is a sealed version and may be happier for
aerobatics.
But one other reason I kept the Gill is weight. The G-243S is 28.8
lbs. I need it in my CJ to have a decent CG.
So before you put a light-weight anything in the back of your CJ, you
may want to consider the effect on the aircraft's CG.
Come to think of it, I could most likely put another Gill back there in
parallel just for more weight and an
even happier CG!
You know, like Brian Lloyd always sez' :
"... since one often needs to add weight to achieve proper CG, it
might as well provide something useful as well. "
Dave Laird
N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
Dallas
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: CJ-6A Battery Set Up |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
roger, Roger
The Tender is for 24 volts. about $75. The converter/battery balancer
is a 24 volt to 12 volt, as a converter, or it can act to balance the
batteries while you draw unevenly, 12 volts from one and 24 volts from
both. I'm using the converter as a battery balancer. $175. Batteries are
$85 each. Inverters operate the A.I.'s. 24 volts DC to 36 volt, 400
cycles, 3 phase. Tough to find the solid state, quiet, inverters.
I'm not selling anything, thought you would like to know the price.
I'll send the JPG's tomorrow.
Jim B
>>> rogerbyak@yahoo.com 9/15/2004 3:30:38 PM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: Roger Bieberdorf <rogerbyak@yahoo.com>
Jim; Thanks for the comments; please do send me the JPG pics at
rogerb@ruralelectric.com
I understand the "tender" to be a 24 volt charger??
the "converter" must be 24 to 12 volts??
but what do the two "inverters" do? Thanks, rb
Jim Bernier <JBernier@dart.org> wrote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier"
Roger,
I'm the type of guy that asks advise from everyone and uses the best,
in my mind.
I to have installed two 14 volt batteries and placed them in series.
Doug Sapp suggested to use the Odyssey batteries. 250 amps, made by
military standards. At least that's what the brochure says. Brian
suggested to use a battery balancer. Made good sense, so I did. I also
place a Battery Tender in line so I could keep the two charged to max.
when I'm not flying. The tender is in the CJ next to the batteries. I
use the external plug modified to accept the normal 110 volt household
current. System works great. Batteries are never low. With 250 amps. I
could lose the alternator and fly safe for any day trip. In fact, I
know
of a PT-17 pilot who has no charging system in the plane. Radio,
electric start, and all he does is plug the plane in after each flight
and he's set for the next day. I've taken JPG's of the arrangement.. I
can send them if you like. I've placed the two batteries, two
inverters,
tender, converter, and strobe power pack on the battery rack. Baggage
area free for baggage.
Jim B
>>> rogerbyak@yahoo.com 9/14/2004 9:01:14 PM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: Roger Bieberdorf
Sooner or later it was to happen.....my expensive 28 Volt Gill Battery
died. I had enough warning to allow time to review the list archives
to
detrmine what others are doing and ordered two 14 volt sealed
batteries
that I will hook up in series.
In the CJ at this time I have a transformer that makes 14 volts off of
the 28 volt battery for operation of the COM and the Transponder. It
feeds a small 14 volt buss. I would like opinions as to if it makes
sense to keep this arrangement or should I feed the 14 volt buss
directly from 1/2 of the battery line up thru a center tap and remove
the transformer? Also, does anyone have some pictures of how they
modified their battery shelf (mine is where the old radio systems set)
to hold the two smaller batteries? rb
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck rudder! |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <adsavar@gte.net>
If you remove the rudder cable tubes and cut the forward ends at a 45 degree
or more angle from the floor to the top of the tube you will significantly
reduce the possibility of footwear/heals jamming between the tube end and
the rudder pedal.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aubrey Price" <aprice@vartec.net>
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Stuck rudder!
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Aubrey Price <aprice@vartec.net>
>
> Good question. I noticed that my YAK does not have the tubes. I was going
to
> ask someone why. You may have answered the question.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jorgen Nielsen [mailto:jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za]
> To: Yak-List
> Subject: Yak-List: Stuck rudder!
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Jorgen Nielsen"
<jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za>
>
> Last Saturday when at the fuel bay I noticed a Yak taxying in followed
> by the fire truck, so went over to check the story.
>
> The pilot had climbed for height, then performed a loop, afterwards he
> realised the rudder pedals / rudder was partially stuck, with some
> limited movement. He returned to airport and declared an emergency,
> concerned he would lose steerage etc. Anyway, after landing, the rudder
> was OK. An AMO has now inspected the rudder and cannot find anything
> wrong.
>
> I did a quick check myself at the time, also then the rudder was moving
> freely. My conclusion was it may have been the pax' feet stuck between
> the pedal & the cable "tube", which is still in place.
>
> Any ideas? Anyone else ever have a stuck rudder?
>
> Also, does anyone know of a bulletin / AD that says the cable tube
> should be removed?
>
> Thanks
> Jorgen
>
>
Message 17
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <adsavar@gte.net>
"Pappy" is right on the money. That's why virtually all of the
used/overhauled 52's coming in have the tubes removed. Cut the ends to at
least a 45 degree angle to help reduced the possibility of jamming.
Otherwise, remove them and warn all rear seat passengers to keep their feet
off of the cables.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: <cjpilot710@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Bulletins
> --> Yak-List message posted by: cjpilot710@aol.com
>
> At MTW Sergi last year, had all his -52 folks sawing off some of their
rudder
> cable cover for that very reason. Evidently it caused the lost of life
'back
> in the USSR".
>
> Jim Goolsby
>
> "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety,
deserve
> neither liberty nor safety"
> Benjamin Franklin 1759
>
> "The reason older men are like fine wine: when young, they are like grapes
> until some woman stomps all over them."
> Unknown older man.
>
> "Kill them all. Let God sort them out"
> Crusaders 900 AD
>
> "With my shield, or on it."
> Trojan Warriors, BC
>
>
Message 18
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jorgen Nielsen" <jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za>
Yes agreed on removing the tube - although I like that idea of cutting
an angle. Then one still has protection over the cable turn buckle
itself.
Do you folks know if the removal was ever a bulletin subject or just a
de facto thing people do?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
Savarese
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Bulletins
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <adsavar@gte.net>
"Pappy" is right on the money. That's why virtually all of the
used/overhauled 52's coming in have the tubes removed. Cut the ends to
at least a 45 degree angle to help reduced the possibility of jamming.
Otherwise, remove them and warn all rear seat passengers to keep their
feet off of the cables. Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: <cjpilot710@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Bulletins
> --> Yak-List message posted by: cjpilot710@aol.com
>
> At MTW Sergi last year, had all his -52 folks sawing off some of their
rudder
> cable cover for that very reason. Evidently it caused the lost of
> life
'back
> in the USSR".
>
> Jim Goolsby
>
> "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little safety,
deserve
> neither liberty nor safety"
> Benjamin Franklin 1759
>
> "The reason older men are like fine wine: when young, they are like
> grapes until some woman stomps all over them." Unknown older man.
>
> "Kill them all. Let God sort them out"
> Crusaders 900 AD
>
> "With my shield, or on it."
> Trojan Warriors, BC
>
>
==
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Message 19
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jorgen Nielsen" <jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za>
Thanks Dennis - have you or anyone else ever seen the rudder get stuck
for any other reason?
Problem with this particular incident, the AMO is stressing that he
cannot find any fault. Has checked and double checked everything, but
the pilot is adament that they jammed up. Stalemate. Maybe I should
offer to go fly it for at least 10 hours to prove its OK! :-)
Jorgen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
Savarese
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Stuck rudder!
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <adsavar@gte.net>
If you remove the rudder cable tubes and cut the forward ends at a 45
degree or more angle from the floor to the top of the tube you will
significantly reduce the possibility of footwear/heals jamming between
the tube end and the rudder pedal. Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aubrey Price" <aprice@vartec.net>
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Stuck rudder!
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Aubrey Price <aprice@vartec.net>
>
> Good question. I noticed that my YAK does not have the tubes. I was
> going
to
> ask someone why. You may have answered the question.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jorgen Nielsen [mailto:jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za]
> To: Yak-List
> Subject: Yak-List: Stuck rudder!
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Jorgen Nielsen"
<jorgen.nielsen@mweb.co.za>
>
> Last Saturday when at the fuel bay I noticed a Yak taxying in followed
> by the fire truck, so went over to check the story.
>
> The pilot had climbed for height, then performed a loop, afterwards he
> realised the rudder pedals / rudder was partially stuck, with some
> limited movement. He returned to airport and declared an emergency,
> concerned he would lose steerage etc. Anyway, after landing, the
> rudder was OK. An AMO has now inspected the rudder and cannot find
> anything wrong.
>
> I did a quick check myself at the time, also then the rudder was
> moving freely. My conclusion was it may have been the pax' feet stuck
> between the pedal & the cable "tube", which is still in place.
>
> Any ideas? Anyone else ever have a stuck rudder?
>
> Also, does anyone know of a bulletin / AD that says the cable tube
> should be removed?
>
> Thanks
> Jorgen
>
>
==
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