Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:35 AM - Re: Yak-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 10/25/04 (Mark Jefferies)
2. 07:17 AM - Re: Re: remote switches (WSC/Herb Coussons)
3. 07:22 AM - "The Project" is for sale (Brian Lloyd)
4. 07:22 AM - "The Project" is for sale (Brian Lloyd)
5. 07:46 AM - Over G Horn/Indicator (PSalter@aol.com)
6. 08:30 AM - Re: 1995 YAK-52 FOR SALE (JGibson912@aol.com)
7. 09:06 AM - Re: Over G Horn/Indicator (D Zeman)
8. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: Yak-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 10/25/04 (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
9. 02:09 PM - Re: Cylinder head bolts (Jim Bernier)
10. 03:28 PM - Re: Cylinder head bolts (Ernie)
11. 04:52 PM - Re: Cylinder head bolts (N13472@aol.com)
12. 06:03 PM - Re: Cylinder head bolts (Walt Lannon)
13. 06:07 PM - Re: Cylinder head bolts (A. Dennis Savarese)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Yak-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 10/25/04 |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Mark Jefferies" <mark.j@yakuk.com>
Sounds like the perfect answer to a remotely controlled explosion where your
terrorist can be miles from the scene.
> Does anyone know of a cell phone activated 110 V switch? I would like
> to be able to remotely turn on the oil heaters on my YAK this winter.
> I usually only fly about once a week during the winter.
There is an excellent article in the Oct 2004 issue of Light Plane
Maintenance. It covers the various heating systems including why you need
them and how they work. The mention a box from Judith Mountain Technologies
that functions like a pager and controls your preheat system remotely.
See: http://www.goflying.cc/
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: remote switches |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "WSC/Herb Coussons" <drc@wscare.com>
I have looked at the remote switches for preheat. In Green Bay Preheat is
needed for at least 6 mos out of the year. I now just leave it plugged in.
My electric bill in the hanger went from about 10$ a month to about 18$.
Minimal increase. I now have a toasty warm case and oil reservoir, no on
off problems, never call ahead - always ready to go. I even leave my J3
plugged in because I notice alot of moisture condensation blown out if I do
not. I assume the same with Yak - with the warmed engine there will not be
as much moisture if any in the case. Just some thoughts.
Herb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Jefferies" <mark.j@yakuk.com>
Subject: Yak-List: RE: Yak-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 10/25/04
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Mark Jefferies" <mark.j@yakuk.com>
>
> Sounds like the perfect answer to a remotely controlled explosion where
your
> terrorist can be miles from the scene.
>
> > Does anyone know of a cell phone activated 110 V switch? I would like
> > to be able to remotely turn on the oil heaters on my YAK this winter.
> > I usually only fly about once a week during the winter.
>
> There is an excellent article in the Oct 2004 issue of Light Plane
> Maintenance. It covers the various heating systems including why you need
> them and how they work. The mention a box from Judith Mountain
Technologies
> that functions like a pager and controls your preheat system remotely.
>
> See: http://www.goflying.cc/
>
> Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
> brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
> +1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
>
> I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
> Antoine de Saint-Exupry
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | "The Project" is for sale |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
For someone looking for a first-class CJ6A without having to buy a new
one, The Project is for sale.
It is a 1967 CJ6A airframe that has been totally disassembled and
restored. Any skins that were not up-to-snuff were replaced. All
steel fittings were removed, cleaned, inspected, and placed back into
service only if they met spec. The entire pneumatic system has been
disassembled, cleaned, and inspected with any marginal components
replaced. All bearings have been replaced. The gear and actuators
have been disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and rebuilt. The airframe
is effectively complete and just about ready to fly.
The engine is a first-run, overhauled M-14P with a new stainless-steel
exhaust manifold. The prop is a 250cm German MT prop with about 60
hours on it. The gill louvers are from a Yak-18T.
At this point there is no glass, electrical system, instrumentation,
avionics, or paint. (Actually, the interior was painted light grey as
it was being reassembled to protect it.)
Given the weight and condition I felt that the original electrical
system was not worth keeping. I was planning to design and build a new
electrical system that will meet the needs of whatever
instrumentation/avionics I planned to install. The airplane is ready
to be customized to the purchaser's specifications. I would be happy
to work with a buyer to have the aircraft completed to their
specifications.
Contact me off the list if you are interested.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good
citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 4
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| Subject: | "The Project" is for sale |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd <brianl@lloyd.com>
For someone looking for a first-class CJ6A without having to buy a new
one, The Project is for sale.
It is a 1967 CJ6A airframe that has been totally disassembled and
restored. Any skins that were not up-to-snuff were replaced. All
steel fittings were removed, cleaned, inspected, and placed back into
service only if they met spec. The entire pneumatic system has been
disassembled, cleaned, and inspected with any marginal components
replaced. All bearings have been replaced. The gear and actuators
have been disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and rebuilt. The airframe
is effectively complete and just about ready to fly.
The engine is a first-run, overhauled M-14P with a new stainless-steel
exhaust manifold. The prop is a 250cm German MT prop with about 60
hours on it. The gill louvers are from a Yak-18T.
At this point there is no glass, electrical system, instrumentation,
avionics, or paint. (Actually, the interior was painted light grey as
it was being reassembled to protect it.)
Given the weight and condition I felt that the original electrical
system was not worth keeping. I was planning to design and build a new
electrical system that will meet the needs of whatever
instrumentation/avionics I planned to install. The airplane is ready
to be customized to the purchaser's specifications. I would be happy
to work with a buyer to have the aircraft completed to their
specifications.
Contact me off the list if you are interested.
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
There is a time to laud one's country and a time to protest. A good
citizen is prepared to do either as the need arises.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Over G Horn/Indicator |
--> Yak-List message posted by: PSalter@aol.com
Yak 52 Expertskis,
Last time I flew my Yk52, the g-meter, over g horn came on and would not stop until
I turned off the A/H inverter. When I would hit the top of the g-meter panel
with my hand, the horn would breifly stop, then start blaring again. The indicator
on the g-meter, compass panel was also on. My guess is the over g transmitter
in the g-meter has trash in it or has gone bad. Has anyone had this
problem and what is the cure?
Thanks in advance
Phil Salter
Cell 409-656-4148
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 1995 YAK-52 FOR SALE |
--> Yak-List message posted by: JGibson912@aol.com
1995 YAK-52
294 HOURS ON AIRFRAME AND ENGINE SINCE NEW (NOT SINCE REBUILT) THE WING HAS
THE HEAVY +7-5 G RATING NEW FABRIC IN AUG 2001 CAMO PAINT WITH MARKINGS,TRT
250D TRANSPONDER WITH ALTITUDE ENCODER, KING AK-450ELT, 2 BUTLER PARACHUTES, 5
POINT HOOKER HARNESS, RUSSIAN RADIO AND INTERCOM WIRED FOR US HEADSET, DAVTRON
M655 WITH SHADIN FUEL FLOW COMPUTER, WHIRLWIND PROP UPGRADE, NEW ENGINE FUEL
HOSES 10-02 AND MANY OTHER NEW HOSES DURING 1-04 ANNUAL, SMOKED GLASS, SPARES
KIT,TOOL, KIT, COVERS, TOW BAR ALL LOGS AND MANUALS
THIS AIRCRAFT WAS BOUGHT NEW FROM THE FACTORY AND HAS NO DAMAGE HISTORY THIS
YAK IS AN EXCELLENT AND STRONG FLYER CALL FOR ANY ADDITIONAL INFO 702-461-6929
THIS AIRCRAFT IS LOCATED IN THE LAS VEGAS NEVADA AREA (AIR CONDITIONED HANGER)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Over G Horn/Indicator |
--> Yak-List message posted by: D Zeman <curious_wings@yahoo.com>
Hello Phil,
The "over g" sender is in the "g-meter" itself. On
the back of the front cockpit g-meter is a cannon plug
which ties it into the electrical system. There are
also some adjustment screws on the back of the g-meter
itself. A quick fix is to swap the front and rear
g-meters - the rear one does not connect to the
electrical system.
Cheers,
Zeman
__________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Yak-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 10/25/04 |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
I can assure you Brian that the terrorists have already thought of such a
device and there is no need to worry about YAK members letting out
information that they can use.... not that I am pointing fingers by any
means. The simple fact though is that IED's have become pretty damn
sophisticated and ingenious, and we'll leave that discussion right there.
Bottom line is: "They're damn good... but so are we."
As to the subject of heaters..... I have heard a lot of argument about
leaving them on all the time, and NOT doing so. Pro's and Con's of what it
does to the oil, to the condensation, etc., etc. I never have heard an
actual debate on it that referenced actual scientific data... just a lot of
opinions on both sides. I'd be curious to know what people in general
think of a "constant on" indirect oil heater ... pro/con.... that at least
has some basis in fact or long term experience.
My personal remote heater system started with a pager as a control circuit
wired to a relay. I added a 555 timer to that circuit so that it had a 10
hour automatic shutoff control after activation. The pager became too
expensive, so I redesigned it to use some of the spare 2 meter ham radio
equipment that I had along with a DTMF decoder. Almost reason enough to get
your ham radio license! :-)
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Jefferies [mailto:mark.j@yakuk.com]
Subject: Yak-List: RE: Yak-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 10/25/04
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Mark Jefferies" <mark.j@yakuk.com>
Sounds like the perfect answer to a remotely controlled explosion where your
terrorist can be miles from the scene.
> Does anyone know of a cell phone activated 110 V switch? I would like
> to be able to remotely turn on the oil heaters on my YAK this winter.
> I usually only fly about once a week during the winter.
There is an excellent article in the Oct 2004 issue of Light Plane
Maintenance. It covers the various heating systems including why you need
them and how they work. The mention a box from Judith Mountain Technologies
that functions like a pager and controls your preheat system remotely.
See: http://www.goflying.cc/
Brian Lloyd 6501 Red Hook Plaza
brianl@lloyd.com Suite 201
+1.340.998.9447 St. Thomas, VI 00802
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder head bolts |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Ernie,
I don't know of a means to extract that stud without taking the
cylinder off the block. If after you get the jug off and you find enough
stud sticking up you can use vise grips to back it out. If not, you can
cut a slit in the stud and use a hand held impact hammer. If not, center
drill the ugly ?#*% with a small bit. Then get a counter rotating drill
bit. Sears has them. They cut counter clockwise. The way they bite may
work it out. If not, use the drill again and place a heli-coil in it's
place. If you need a stud I can send one to you. Don't use an Easy-out.
If it breaks off in the stud you can give the engine to me. Some people
have luck using them, but I can't take the chance
Good luck. Jim B
>>> ernest.martinez@oracle.com 10/25/2004 5:18:17 PM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
Fellow CJ'rs
I cleaned my engine yesterday trying to track down a leak. I flew it
today then inspected the engine. Good news....I found the leak. Bad
news.....one of the port rear cylinder base studs broke off.
Question: Has anyone been able to remove a busted stud while the
cylinder was still in place. If yes, advise is most welcome.
Doug,
Have you got "Special Wrench Cylinder Nuts" oh very special chineese
parts man????
Ernie
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder head bolts |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
Thanks Jim,
I got the cylinder off and thre stud came out very easily. Now I need to
find a piston ring compressor that will fit that size piston and the proper
wrench to torque the nuts back on. I was able to get them off with a crows
foot, because they were ALL loose except for one.
Thanks
Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Cylinder head bolts
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
>
> Ernie,
> I don't know of a means to extract that stud without taking the
> cylinder off the block. If after you get the jug off and you find enough
> stud sticking up you can use vise grips to back it out. If not, you can
> cut a slit in the stud and use a hand held impact hammer. If not, center
> drill the ugly ?#*% with a small bit. Then get a counter rotating drill
> bit. Sears has them. They cut counter clockwise. The way they bite may
> work it out. If not, use the drill again and place a heli-coil in it's
> place. If you need a stud I can send one to you. Don't use an Easy-out.
> If it breaks off in the stud you can give the engine to me. Some people
> have luck using them, but I can't take the chance
> Good luck. Jim B
>
> >>> ernest.martinez@oracle.com 10/25/2004 5:18:17 PM >>>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
>
> Fellow CJ'rs
>
> I cleaned my engine yesterday trying to track down a leak. I flew it
> today then inspected the engine. Good news....I found the leak. Bad
> news.....one of the port rear cylinder base studs broke off.
>
> Question: Has anyone been able to remove a busted stud while the
> cylinder was still in place. If yes, advise is most welcome.
>
> Doug,
>
> Have you got "Special Wrench Cylinder Nuts" oh very special chineese
> parts man????
>
> Ernie
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder head bolts |
--> Yak-List message posted by: N13472@aol.com
In a message dated 10/26/2004 3:28:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ernest.martinez@oracle.com writes:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
>
> Thanks Jim,
>
> I got the cylinder off and thre stud came out very easily. Now I need to
> find a piston ring compressor that will fit that size piston and the proper
> wrench to torque the nuts back on. I was able to get them off with a crows
> foot, because they were ALL loose except for one.
>
>
Ernie call Bill Blackwell before you install the new stud/studs He use's a
locking
compound from, I think loctite ? In anycase it will keep the studs from
coming
loose. Which is the problem.
Tom Elliott
CJ-6 N63727
Sandy Valley NV
3L2
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder head bolts |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Walt Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
Hi Ernie;
Suggest you replace the two adjacent studs to the broken one. That is
standard practice since they have also been subject to cyclic loading and
may be cracked and /or stretched. Inspect for cracks and if found continue
to replace adjacent studs.
Good luck;
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Cylinder head bolts
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
>
> Thanks Jim,
>
> I got the cylinder off and thre stud came out very easily. Now I need to
> find a piston ring compressor that will fit that size piston and the
proper
> wrench to torque the nuts back on. I was able to get them off with a crows
> foot, because they were ALL loose except for one.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ernie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Cylinder head bolts
>
>
> > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
> >
> > Ernie,
> > I don't know of a means to extract that stud without taking the
> > cylinder off the block. If after you get the jug off and you find enough
> > stud sticking up you can use vise grips to back it out. If not, you can
> > cut a slit in the stud and use a hand held impact hammer. If not, center
> > drill the ugly ?#*% with a small bit. Then get a counter rotating drill
> > bit. Sears has them. They cut counter clockwise. The way they bite may
> > work it out. If not, use the drill again and place a heli-coil in it's
> > place. If you need a stud I can send one to you. Don't use an Easy-out.
> > If it breaks off in the stud you can give the engine to me. Some people
> > have luck using them, but I can't take the chance
> > Good luck. Jim B
> >
> > >>> ernest.martinez@oracle.com 10/25/2004 5:18:17 PM >>>
> > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
> >
> > Fellow CJ'rs
> >
> > I cleaned my engine yesterday trying to track down a leak. I flew it
> > today then inspected the engine. Good news....I found the leak. Bad
> > news.....one of the port rear cylinder base studs broke off.
> >
> > Question: Has anyone been able to remove a busted stud while the
> > cylinder was still in place. If yes, advise is most welcome.
> >
> > Doug,
> >
> > Have you got "Special Wrench Cylinder Nuts" oh very special chineese
> > parts man????
> >
> > Ernie
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cylinder head bolts |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <adsavar@gte.net>
Isn't that stuff called Silkolene or something like that? Suppose to be
great stuff fro just such applications.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: <N13472@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Cylinder head bolts
> --> Yak-List message posted by: N13472@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/26/2004 3:28:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> ernest.martinez@oracle.com writes:
>
> > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
> >
> > Thanks Jim,
> >
> > I got the cylinder off and thre stud came out very easily. Now I need to
> > find a piston ring compressor that will fit that size piston and the
proper
> > wrench to torque the nuts back on. I was able to get them off with a
crows
> > foot, because they were ALL loose except for one.
> >
> >
>
> Ernie call Bill Blackwell before you install the new stud/studs He use's a
> locking
> compound from, I think loctite ? In anycase it will keep the studs from
> coming
> loose. Which is the problem.
>
>
> Tom Elliott
> CJ-6 N63727
> Sandy Valley NV
> 3L2
>
>
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