Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:23 AM - Re: Russian Radio Antennas (Ron Davis)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: Re: Fred Abramson Article (Ernie)
3. 07:12 AM - MTV Blades (Richard Goode)
4. 07:15 AM - Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve (Don Boardman)
5. 08:09 AM - Re: SNIMTA_SPAM Yak-List Digest (Barry Hancock)
6. 10:56 AM - Re: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve (Ernie)
7. 11:35 AM - Re: MTV Blades (WSC/Herb Coussons)
8. 12:42 PM - MTV blades, ADs and yak sale (Drew Blahnick)
9. 12:47 PM - Re: Oil Shut Off Valve (Yakjock)
10. 01:13 PM - Re: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve (Yak52)
11. 01:15 PM - Re: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve ()
12. 06:45 PM - Hooker Harness Test Pilot Patch (Frank Haertlein)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Russian Radio Antennas |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ron Davis" <l39parts@hotmail.com>
Almost. Antennas are designed to work on a specified frequency range. It
may be narrow or quite wide. I have an antenna designed for 19 MHz to 900
MHz (not on a plane).
Other antenna design criteria are: impedance, power, and airspeed. They
are all important.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fred Abramson Article |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
Does the Housai Engine have this valve? If so, where is it located?
Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Reynolds" <gary.reynolds@hills.com.au>
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Fred Abramson Article
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Gary Reynolds <gary.reynolds@hills.com.au>
>
> Gday All
> I have found on my 52 that the oil valve was leaking ,letting oil
> into the cylinders i took out the valve & spring i found a groove around
it
> i had it machined up and no more problems. no oil loss . The problem is it
> is a metal on metal seating valve and any grooves or distortion and it
will
> leak. since i have done this approx 12 mths ago i have had no hydraulic
> locks or oil loss
> Gary R
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Edwin Curry [mailto:EACurry@ev1.net]
> To: Yak-List@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Fred Abramson Article
>
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Edwin Curry <EACurry@ev1.net>
>
> I am loosing a considerable amount of oil from the oil reservoir between
> flights. (7 to 14 days) I have hydraulic lock found during preflight so
> far. I do all that is recommended in the Russian manual to clear the
> cylinders. It seems to be happening more frequently. I would like to
> resolve the problem in the most sure way possible. If there is a check
> valve that fails with just a little piece of foreign matter such as
> carbon, I could find myself repairing the valve again and again. I
> thought that an inline shutoff valve would stop all of the problems. I
> had never heard of anyone doing it until I read the article by Fred
> Abramson. It sounds like a really good idea if it is done correctly.
>
> Edwin
>
>
Message 3
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
No problem to get MTV-3 blades (or indeed any other MT blades) from MT themselves.
However it is not so easy to fit a single blade, simply because the blades are
wood/composite, and therefore weights of individual blades can vary significantly.
For this reason, MT sell them in matched pairs/threes etc., and an individual blade
will almost certainly be out of balance and difficult to balance.
Richard Goode
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
dangerous content by the http://www.anti84787.com
MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
Hi All,
Just a quick word to say that I have installed the Kimball oil shut off
valve on my M-14PF Moose. It is a quality valve and easy to install. The oil
shut off valve is installed between the oil tank and the oil pump
inlet on the engine. This valve has a micro switch on it that prevents
starting in all positions except fully open. You cannot start the engine
unless the oil is full on.
I have also installed a clean kit. A slightly modified Kimball set up. I
will be on amphibs and did not want the intake's common drain valve exiting
the lower cowl. My installation allows the oil from the nose case sump and
the intakes to drain after engine is shut down through lines and two ball
valves (one for sump line and one for common intake line). The two ball
valves open and close simultaneously. They are operated by one push-pull
located on the dash. The two lines drain into a collecting reservoir. On the
next flight, at my convenience, the oil collected in the reservoir is pumped
up into the main oil tank.
THANKS for all the good info I have gleaned from the Yak list about my M-14
etc. If I wasn't (shortly to complete) building a Moose I might just have to
go up and see George Coy about a Yak 52!
In closing I would like to say Kimball's are a great outfit to work with.
Kevin Kimball, VP Engineering
Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/
http://www.pittsmodel12.com/
Catch you later,
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
N622D Double Duce Delta Moose
#130 M-14PF 400HP, MT-Prop/Beta, Aerocet 3500 amphibs
Delta Lake, Rome, NY
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: SNIMTA_SPAM Yak-List Digest |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Barry Hancock <barry@flyredstar.org>
On Nov 15, 2004, at 11:58 PM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
> If there is a check
> valve that fails with just a little piece of foreign matter such as
> carbon, I could find myself repairing the valve again and again.
Ultimately, this is the issue. Many will say, correctly, that there is
an internal check valve...that "ain't worth crap" unless the plane is
flying every day as intended. Most of us don't fly every day, so a
valve is VERY helpful. Many will argue that it is an additional point
of failure - but so does starting the engine - the risk of failure is
so minimal as to make is a non-issue in my mind. These valves are used
on nearly all large radial engines and their mode of failure ( tho' no
one that I have spoken with, including the gurus at Chino, knows of a
valve failure) is one that will leave the valve in the current
position. The circuit interrupt connected to the starter is essential
and will only allow the starter to engage if the valve is *fully* open.
FWIW, even Vladimir Yastremski advocates the use of these valves.
Why? Because they are safe and significantly reduce the oil flowing
onto your hangar floor. Furthermore, you get an accurate reading of
oil in the tank, and thus the system....preventing you from
inadvertently overfilling the tank.
Just one man's thoughts...
Bottom line is to understand the risks/rewards and make your decision
accordingly. There is no right answer beyond that...
Barry
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ernie" <ernest.martinez@oracle.com>
Can the Kimball oil shutoff be installed on the Housai engine.
Ernie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Boardman" <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Yak-List: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just a quick word to say that I have installed the Kimball oil shut off
> valve on my M-14PF Moose. It is a quality valve and easy to install. The
oil
> shut off valve is installed between the oil tank and the oil pump
> inlet on the engine. This valve has a micro switch on it that prevents
> starting in all positions except fully open. You cannot start the engine
> unless the oil is full on.
>
> I have also installed a clean kit. A slightly modified Kimball set up. I
> will be on amphibs and did not want the intake's common drain valve
exiting
> the lower cowl. My installation allows the oil from the nose case sump and
> the intakes to drain after engine is shut down through lines and two ball
> valves (one for sump line and one for common intake line). The two ball
> valves open and close simultaneously. They are operated by one push-pull
> located on the dash. The two lines drain into a collecting reservoir. On
the
> next flight, at my convenience, the oil collected in the reservoir is
pumped
> up into the main oil tank.
>
> THANKS for all the good info I have gleaned from the Yak list about my
M-14
> etc. If I wasn't (shortly to complete) building a Moose I might just have
to
> go up and see George Coy about a Yak 52!
>
> In closing I would like to say Kimball's are a great outfit to work with.
>
> Kevin Kimball, VP Engineering
> Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
> http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/
> http://www.pittsmodel12.com/
>
> Catch you later,
> Regards,
> Don Boardman
> & Partner, Randy Bowers
> N622D Double Duce Delta Moose
> #130 M-14PF 400HP, MT-Prop/Beta, Aerocet 3500 amphibs
> Delta Lake, Rome, NY
>
>
Message 7
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "WSC/Herb Coussons" <drc@wscare.com>
For those of you who were at MTW/OSH this year you may remember the prop
install on my 52TW the first night as I had one blade strike the day before
at OSH taxiing. - (long sad story not worth repeating.) I had MT overnight
a matched set of blades which are about $2800 each then a local guy in
Chetek, WI rebuilt the prop Larry Schlesinger - excellent work and excellent
service. MT was quick to respond and easy to deal with. I will copy their
e-mail below as they bought the 2 good blades back (they had about 150 hrs
on them). They offered to sell a new blade and balance the 3 as a matched
set. I include all of this to show those who are blade shopping the costs
involved and make you a better shopper when contacting MT. If anyone out
there got a better deal do not e-mail me! I hate getting screwed but I
think this worked out ok since I was back in the air within 24 hours.
Hope this helps - Herb
Mr. Herb Coussons,
we have received 3x CL250-27 blades(S/N: TG-16721, TG-16722, TG-16723)
Blade #1 TG-16721 is not repairable because the damage exceeds the allowable
15% rule. Tip replacement can only be done if 85% of the entire blade length
are without any damage.
Blade #2 and #3 can be reused and would qualify for a refund of $1,072.50
per blade. Total refund $2,145.00
If you decide to replace the damaged blade with a new one and complete the
set for spare use your cost would be $2,860.00 for a new CL250-27 blade and
$600.00 to overhaul and match the 2 undamaged blades.
Please let us know what you decide.
Best Regards,
Juergen Zahner
mt-propeller USA, Inc.
ph: 386-736-7762
fax:386-736-7696
mtprop@bellsouth.net
www.mt-propeller.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
Subject: Yak-List: MTV Blades
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Richard Goode"
<richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>
>
> No problem to get MTV-3 blades (or indeed any other MT blades) from MT
themselves.
>
>
> However it is not so easy to fit a single blade, simply because the blades
are wood/composite, and therefore weights of individual blades can vary
significantly.
>
>
> For this reason, MT sell them in matched pairs/threes etc., and an
individual blade will almost certainly be out of balance and difficult to
balance.
>
>
> Richard Goode
>
>
> Richard Goode Aerobatics
> Rhodds Farm
> Lyonshall
> Herefordshire
> HR5 3LW
> United Kingdom
>
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
> www.russianaeros.com
>
> dangerous content by the http://www.anti84787.com
> MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | MTV blades, ADs and yak sale |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Drew Blahnick" <drewblahnick@hotmail.com>
Folks,
On the older MTV props that need the AD: I had American Prop pull my CJ-6
MTV prop apart after determining the blade 'play' was excessive, note it was
a russian built and hopefully there are no others in the US from there -
they are not supported by MT...the shank bolts had no 'glue compound' at all
as proscribed by MT and needed replcing to meet the AD. Definately
something to think about if you have an older MTV prop!
My Yak 50 has the new MTV-3/-29 with a spare russian paddle prop, it has to
be sold off very soon. The price is negotiable, but is well under value.
It has the spar mod and every other mod known to mankind and is located in
Southern Calif.
Drew
lacloudchaser@yahoo.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Shut Off Valve |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Yakjock" <Yakjock@msn.com>
I've had both a drain kit and a shut off valve in place on my M-14P for the last
several years. Originally installed by Bill Blackwell, the shut off has worked
flawlessly. It is electric, the engine cannot be started if the valve is
closed, and the switch has a guard plate over it that requires one to be very
specific about closing the valve. I do not have the scavenger system. I do run
the engine up to scavenge oil into the tank, and then close the valve about
2-3 seconds before shutdown. I reopen the valve before pulling the prop through.
With the combination of valve and drain my hangar floor is dry and I never experience
hydraulic lock.
Hal
Message 10
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| Subject: | Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Yak52" <yak52@flyredstar.org>
Don - how long have you had this installation on your M-14?
Deon.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Boardman
Subject: Yak-List: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve
--> Yak-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
Hi All,
Just a quick word to say that I have installed the Kimball oil shut off
valve on my M-14PF Moose. It is a quality valve and easy to install. The oil
shut off valve is installed between the oil tank and the oil pump
inlet on the engine. This valve has a micro switch on it that prevents
starting in all positions except fully open. You cannot start the engine
unless the oil is full on.
I have also installed a clean kit. A slightly modified Kimball set up. I
will be on amphibs and did not want the intake's common drain valve exiting
the lower cowl. My installation allows the oil from the nose case sump and
the intakes to drain after engine is shut down through lines and two ball
valves (one for sump line and one for common intake line). The two ball
valves open and close simultaneously. They are operated by one push-pull
located on the dash. The two lines drain into a collecting reservoir. On the
next flight, at my convenience, the oil collected in the reservoir is pumped
up into the main oil tank.
THANKS for all the good info I have gleaned from the Yak list about my M-14
etc. If I wasn't (shortly to complete) building a Moose I might just have to
go up and see George Coy about a Yak 52!
In closing I would like to say Kimball's are a great outfit to work with.
Kevin Kimball, VP Engineering
Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/
http://www.pittsmodel12.com/
Catch you later,
Regards,
Don Boardman
& Partner, Randy Bowers
N622D Double Duce Delta Moose
#130 M-14PF 400HP, MT-Prop/Beta, Aerocet 3500 amphibs
Delta Lake, Rome, NY
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve |
--> Yak-List message posted by: <lie.buyse@pandora.be>
Mr. Boardman,
As I also decided to do something about spilling oil on aprons and hydrolic
lock (almost sure if I leave the plane for 7 days - even once after 1 day!)
I would like to know if fitting of the Kimball oil shut off valve is an easy
task. Is it just unscrewing the oil line from the oil pump inlet and putting
the valve in between? No adaptors, elbows or whatsoever? Is it the original
metric thread? My russian mechanic hasn' t installed such an oil valve
untill now, so I want to be sure if the installation will be straightforward
before ordering one.
Thanks,
Lieven Buyse
Yak52 RA 1428K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Boardman" <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Yak-List: Have Iinstalled the Kimball Oil Valve
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just a quick word to say that I have installed the Kimball oil shut off
> valve on my M-14PF Moose. It is a quality valve and easy to install. The
oil
> shut off valve is installed between the oil tank and the oil pump
> inlet on the engine. This valve has a micro switch on it that prevents
> starting in all positions except fully open. You cannot start the engine
> unless the oil is full on.
>
> I have also installed a clean kit. A slightly modified Kimball set up. I
> will be on amphibs and did not want the intake's common drain valve
exiting
> the lower cowl. My installation allows the oil from the nose case sump and
> the intakes to drain after engine is shut down through lines and two ball
> valves (one for sump line and one for common intake line). The two ball
> valves open and close simultaneously. They are operated by one push-pull
> located on the dash. The two lines drain into a collecting reservoir. On
the
> next flight, at my convenience, the oil collected in the reservoir is
pumped
> up into the main oil tank.
>
> THANKS for all the good info I have gleaned from the Yak list about my
M-14
> etc. If I wasn't (shortly to complete) building a Moose I might just have
to
> go up and see George Coy about a Yak 52!
>
> In closing I would like to say Kimball's are a great outfit to work with.
>
> Kevin Kimball, VP Engineering
> Jim Kimball Enterprises, Inc.
> http://www.jimkimballenterprises.com/
> http://www.pittsmodel12.com/
>
> Catch you later,
> Regards,
> Don Boardman
> & Partner, Randy Bowers
> N622D Double Duce Delta Moose
> #130 M-14PF 400HP, MT-Prop/Beta, Aerocet 3500 amphibs
> Delta Lake, Rome, NY
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Hooker Harness Test Pilot Patch |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Haertlein" <yak52driver@earthlink.net>
Yakkers
If you crash a plane wearing a Hooker Harness and don't get hurt, they
send you a patch for your jacket. A buddy of mine received one today
along with a nice letter. I guess it is for that time that he had the
gear collapse on the runway . Pretty slow as that was over 2 years ago.
Frank
N9110M
YAK-52
L71
Interesting words from a Marine General
http://home.earthlink.net/~yak52driver/general.html
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