Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:12 AM - Yak 55M starting air valve...cont (Ron Spencer)
2. 06:41 AM - Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont (Dave Laird)
3. 06:51 AM - 'Blubbering' (Richard Goode)
4. 07:01 AM - Re: 'Blubbering' (A. Dennis Savarese)
5. 07:16 AM - Re: 'Blubbering' (Fraser, Gus)
6. 08:01 AM - Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont (Ron Spencer)
7. 08:30 AM - blubber (Jerry Painter)
8. 09:06 AM - tires (JOE)
9. 10:17 AM - Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont (Doug Sapp)
10. 11:13 AM - Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont (Fraser, Gus)
11. 11:31 AM - Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont (Dr Andre Katz)
12. 12:00 PM - Blubber (NapeOne@aol.com)
13. 12:48 PM - Re: Re: WHAT A BASH!!! (ByronMFox@aol.com)
14. 01:54 PM - Re: Blubbering (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
15. 02:19 PM - IR Temperature Gun (ByronMFox@aol.com)
16. 02:34 PM - Re: IR Temperature Gun (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
17. 02:39 PM - Re: IR Temperature Gun (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
18. 02:57 PM - Re: Blubbering (Roger Kemp)
19. 03:00 PM - Re: IR Temperature Gun (Roger Kemp)
20. 03:14 PM - Re: IR Temperature Gun (ByronMFox@aol.com)
21. 03:19 PM - Re: Ha, this is worth reading (PeteAbbott@aol.com)
22. 04:03 PM - Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont (Ron Spencer)
23. 06:40 PM - Re: IR Temperature Gun (ggg6@att.net)
24. 07:14 PM - Re: IR Temperature Gun (ByronMFox@aol.com)
25. 07:58 PM - Re: Blubbering (Naomi Siu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Yak 55M starting air valve...cont |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ron Spencer" <splitimage.wing@verizon.net>
Reference my previous posts about problems with maintaining system, hence,
aircraft bottle air pressure...
The Detective work continues!
My mech has pretty much isolated the probalem...therefore, my question to
one and all is where can I find the following part?
"Hydraforce Inc" 24 volt, air valve, part number SV08-21
We believe it is an American Company becasue the ".Inc" obviously implies
that they are incorporated, and the "SV" is a US designation which stands
for "Solenoid Valve".
Any info, comments or help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance, -rs-
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
> My mech has pretty much isolated the probalem...therefore, my
> question to
> one and all is where can I find the following part?
>
> "Hydraforce Inc" 24 volt, air valve, part number SV08-21
Ron,
try this link:
http://www.hydraforce.com/HFCatalog/(33lc4t552t1ryj55fb1ssn55)/
CatPage.aspx?ModelID=SV08-21
The website also has links to distributors...
http://www.hydraforce.com/Distribs/World.htm
but you may want to to forgo telling them it's for an aircraft...
some people don't
sell stuff to hang on airplanes.... but if it was for a boat, or a
machine shop system, then no problem!
good luck,
Dave Laird
N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
Dallas
Message 3
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
In my experience, isolated problems like this, which would normally seem like fuel-related
ones, are high tension electric problems - plugs/ignition leads/magneto
caps/magneto coils.
It seems to be higher temperatures that brings on the problem.
Richard Goode
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Mob: +44 (0) 7768 610389
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
dangerous content by the http://www.invictawiz.com
MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 'Blubbering' |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
You are right on the money Richard, which is what I suggested in my first
response yesterday. The best thing to do would be to replace the wires and
plugs with the automotive conversion kit. Everyone who has ordered it says
it is outstanding.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
Subject: Yak-List: 'Blubbering'
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Richard Goode"
> <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>
> In my experience, isolated problems like this, which would normally seem
> like fuel-related ones, are high tension electric problems -
> plugs/ignition leads/magneto caps/magneto coils.
>
> It seems to be higher temperatures that brings on the problem.
>
> Richard Goode
>
> Richard Goode Aerobatics
> Rhodds Farm
> Lyonshall
> Herefordshire
> HR5 3LW
> United Kingdom
>
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
> Mob: +44 (0) 7768 610389
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
> www.russianaeros.com
>
> dangerous content by the http://www.invictawiz.com
> MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
>
>
>
Message 5
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Fraser, Gus" <gus.fraser@gs.com>
I can attest to that just fitted it and it is the dogs bollocks.
Gus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Subject: Re: Yak-List: 'Blubbering'
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese"
--> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
You are right on the money Richard, which is what I suggested in my first
response yesterday. The best thing to do would be to replace the wires and
plugs with the automotive conversion kit. Everyone who has ordered it says
it is outstanding.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Goode" <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
Subject: Yak-List: 'Blubbering'
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Richard Goode"
> <richard.goode@russianaeros.com>
>
> In my experience, isolated problems like this, which would normally seem
> like fuel-related ones, are high tension electric problems -
> plugs/ignition leads/magneto caps/magneto coils.
>
> It seems to be higher temperatures that brings on the problem.
>
> Richard Goode
>
> Richard Goode Aerobatics
> Rhodds Farm
> Lyonshall
> Herefordshire
> HR5 3LW
> United Kingdom
>
> Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
> Mob: +44 (0) 7768 610389
> Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
> www.russianaeros.com
>
> dangerous content by the http://www.invictawiz.com
> MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ron Spencer" <splitimage.wing@verizon.net>
Thanks!
-rs-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Laird" <dave@davelaird.com>
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
>
>>
>> My mech has pretty much isolated the probalem...therefore, my
>> question to
>> one and all is where can I find the following part?
>>
>> "Hydraforce Inc" 24 volt, air valve, part number SV08-21
>
> Ron,
> try this link:
>
> http://www.hydraforce.com/HFCatalog/(33lc4t552t1ryj55fb1ssn55)/
> CatPage.aspx?ModelID=SV08-21
>
>
> The website also has links to distributors...
>
> http://www.hydraforce.com/Distribs/World.htm
>
>
> but you may want to to forgo telling them it's for an aircraft...
> some people don't
> sell stuff to hang on airplanes.... but if it was for a boat, or a
> machine shop system, then no problem!
>
> good luck,
>
>
> Dave Laird
> N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
> Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jerry Painter" <wild.blue@verizon.net>
Sounds like mixture to me. Have you tried changing jets?
Jerry Painter
Wild Blue Aviation
360-435-8431425-876-0865
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0cs5r/index.html
Message 8
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--> Yak-List message posted by: JOE <joeh@shaw.ca>
Tire rubber;
I took core samples from a Desser tire and a Chinese main gear tire
Both were low hours and were blown on heavy braking landings, ( not mine ! )
The Desser tire had approx. 2.5 MM of rubber from the bottom of the tread groove
to the cord.
The Chinese tire had 7 MM of rubber left after all tread grooves had disappeared.
Depth of cord aprox the same on both.
Just an observation, looks like lots of life in the Chinese tire long after worn
smooth.
Joe
Message 9
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| Subject: | Yak 55M starting air valve...cont |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
Visited the site, and noted that SV08-21 is a "normally open valve", I think
you would want a "normally closed" valve. Also could not find prices, or
any info as to rather this unit could stand the rigors of the engine
compartment-- solvent wash down, high heat or moisture, etc. It has been my
experience that most of these type of controls are made to be used in a very
clean and temp controlled environment. I would suggest talking to their
tech folks before spending any money.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Laird
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
> My mech has pretty much isolated the probalem...therefore, my
> question to
> one and all is where can I find the following part?
>
> "Hydraforce Inc" 24 volt, air valve, part number SV08-21
Ron,
try this link:
http://www.hydraforce.com/HFCatalog/(33lc4t552t1ryj55fb1ssn55)/
CatPage.aspx?ModelID=SV08-21
The website also has links to distributors...
http://www.hydraforce.com/Distribs/World.htm
but you may want to to forgo telling them it's for an aircraft...
some people don't
sell stuff to hang on airplanes.... but if it was for a boat, or a
machine shop system, then no problem!
good luck,
Dave Laird
N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
Dallas
Message 10
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| Subject: | Yak 55M starting air valve...cont |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Fraser, Gus" <gus.fraser@gs.com>
Also,
Is it just me or does is say HYDRAULIC in the description with no mention of
pneumatic ? This is for a starter solenoid right ?)
See
"Description
----
A solenoid-operated, 2-way, piloted, poppet-type, normally open, screw-in,
hydraulic cartridge valve designed for low leakage in load-holding
applications. "
Gus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Sapp
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
Visited the site, and noted that SV08-21 is a "normally open valve", I think
you would want a "normally closed" valve. Also could not find prices, or
any info as to rather this unit could stand the rigors of the engine
compartment-- solvent wash down, high heat or moisture, etc. It has been my
experience that most of these type of controls are made to be used in a very
clean and temp controlled environment. I would suggest talking to their
tech folks before spending any money.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Laird
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
> My mech has pretty much isolated the probalem...therefore, my question
> to one and all is where can I find the following part?
>
> "Hydraforce Inc" 24 volt, air valve, part number SV08-21
Ron,
try this link:
http://www.hydraforce.com/HFCatalog/(33lc4t552t1ryj55fb1ssn55)/
CatPage.aspx?ModelID=SV08-21
The website also has links to distributors...
http://www.hydraforce.com/Distribs/World.htm
but you may want to to forgo telling them it's for an aircraft...
some people don't
sell stuff to hang on airplanes.... but if it was for a boat, or a machine
shop system, then no problem!
good luck,
Dave Laird
N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
Dallas
Message 11
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| Subject: | Yak 55M starting air valve...cont |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dr Andre Katz <bu131@swbell.net>
the valve sv08- locally here in dallas is 30 bucks and comes in 2 types, one with
a manual control and the original without it, also there is a spade fitting
or cable fitting. the supplier has 3 on hand but needs to know the fittings and
there is also a coil included with the valve that is additionally 10 bucks.
perhaps this info helps
andres
Message 12
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--> Yak-List message posted by: NapeOne@aol.com
Gauges should not vibrate so bad you can't get a good reading.
David H.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: WHAT A BASH!!! |
--> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
Jim, you've new meaning to what constitutes a proper wedding. ...Blitz
Message 14
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
Just another observation:
Roger, you and optionally every other aircraft owner (who does some work on
their own) but ESPECIALLY round engine owners should immediately go down to
Sears and purchase their IR Temperature gun. Raychem and others sell ones
that are just as good or better, but man oh man... does everyone just HAVE
to have one of these suckers in their toolbox. Figure on around $80 for a
good one, and they are worth twice that for the time they will save you.
For your problem, I would suggest making some checks (not necessarily in the
order I give them). First, I strongly suspect that this is electrical and
not fuel related. Just for a check though, when it occurs, lower the power,
then turn the fuel primer to the cylinder primer side, don't pull it out,
just turn it. This will REALLY enrich your engine fuel/air ratio, and if
the engine is having a lean miss, this will help isolate it. I doubt this
is your problem, but it's a test... and it's simple.
Second, start running in flight mag tests on climb out. The engine miss you
are experiencing suggests that BOTH plugs are missing on that cylinder. You
might be able to make mag checks BEFORE it gets bad enough that it is
shaking the aircraft so badly. If you CAN get it to do this, you're golden.
Simply leave the mag switch the way it is, let it continue missing and get
on the ground as soon as possible and use your new IR heat readout gun to
check cylinder head temp. on all 9 jugs. The one that is missing
consistently will stand out like a sore thumb on your readouts with a lower
temp. The trick here is to obviously get on deck and get a reading before
things equalize.
Change the plugs.... if you have a spare set already.... do that now. It
could easily just be a plug issue. As for the engine conversion harness to
use racing automobile wires AND plugs.... you betcha.... I have personal
experience with a FEW aircraft using this kit and it is the cat's meow. Or
dogs rear, or whatever.... :-) It does NOT introduce more noise into the
radio's noise floor. I was really worried about that and ran very specific
tests looking at sig to noise ratios before and after the conversion. I saw
no change at all... if anything, with the new kit, the noise went DOWN.
Hard to believe, but true. Plus, with the reduced cost that you save with a
spark plug change... you'll have paid for it the first time you need new
plugs. Further, if you ever have a bad wire, it is now minutes to change
and not hours, as it is now.. or worse yet, you lose the new wire in the
original "tube"... you don't want to experience that disaster. I was
worried about rain. No problems with rain... the kit just is perfect. I am
going to order one for myself as a Christmas present (for me).
Experiment with running the engine (cowl in place) at high power to get the
temps up near the yellow... and see if you can duplicate the miss like this
on the deck... again, as soon as you do, run it for a couple of minutes
while it is missing and then zap it with the IR Temp gun. Instant success.
Believe me, that gun works.
I just went on a cross country to Pennsylvania from North Carolina. Half
way up there, I felt a little vibration that was new. MAG CHECK followed
and I had a miss on the rear plugs. (Switch on "1" as miss happened) I got
to Brandywine Airport, ran the engine on the bad mag for 3 minutes, popped
out, used the IR gun, found a bad cylinder (#7) and replaced the rear
plug..... total time, 30 minutes. Good to go problem fixed. The IR gun
also has great uses on cars, checking radiators, you name it.
Take care,
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Fitzpatrick [mailto:rmfitz@direcway.com]
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Blubbering
--> Yak-List message posted by: Bob Fitzpatrick <rmfitz@direcway.com>
Doc,
Only on take off, full power: 85 MP & 98% RPM. I often leave the
throttle wide open during an entire flight (RPM back to 80- 85%) with a
lot of climbs similar to take off but without the roughness.
bob
Roger Kemp wrote:
>--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
>
>Bob,
>Does it occure only on Take Off at what % RPM and mmHg manifold pressure?
>Doc
>
>
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: Bob Fitzpatrick <rmfitz@direcway.com>
>>To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
>>Date: 10/2/2005 12:11:55 AM
>>Subject: Yak-List: Blubbering
>>
>>--> Yak-List message posted by: Bob Fitzpatrick <rmfitz@direcway.com>
>>
>>Yakkers;
>>
>>In 5 yrs of M14 yak flying the possibility of a "blubber" on take-off
>>has been a given. The guy that sold me the airplane warned me about it
>>and i warn my GIBs. I always thought it was loading of the lower
>>cylinders or something like that and just lived with it. Now the
>>experience is getting more frequent and prolonged. People on the ground
>>are noticing. Used to be i'd get a little miss at 500' when climbing
>>out, now it's at 200' and lasts for 10 sec. Oil & fuel pressure stay
>>solid, can't say abt RPM & MP since the needles are longer and they are
>>shaking too much at that point to be conclusive .It's always momentary
>>and does not repeat during all the unusual attitudes of the following
>>acro flight which should eliminate a lot of possibilities. I'm
>>religious about having temps in the green prior to take off. If the
>>plugs are shorting out due to extended run-up/warm up then what would
>>make them heal themselves in a matter of seconds? What going on? TIA.
>>
>>bob
>>Boris 52BN
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | IR Temperature Gun |
--> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
In a message dated 10/3/05 1:55:09 PM, BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil
writes:
> IR Temperature gun
>
Bob, could this tool go by another name? Searched Sears' web site without
success using IR temperature gun. Thanks, Blitz
Message 16
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| Subject: | IR Temperature Gun |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
I'll get you the part number on it.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: ByronMFox@aol.com [mailto:ByronMFox@aol.com]
Subject: Yak-List: IR Temperature Gun
--> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
In a message dated 10/3/05 1:55:09 PM, BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil
writes:
> IR Temperature gun
>
Bob, could this tool go by another name? Searched Sears' web site without
success using IR temperature gun. Thanks, Blitz
Message 17
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| Subject: | IR Temperature Gun |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
Byron, it is the Craftsman model number 50466 It measures from 58 to 1000
degrees F. Has built in laser aiming point with on/off control, and also
with readout in either C or F. Lists at around $100, but can be had for
about $85
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: ByronMFox@aol.com [mailto:ByronMFox@aol.com]
Subject: Yak-List: IR Temperature Gun
--> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
In a message dated 10/3/05 1:55:09 PM, BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil
writes:
> IR Temperature gun
>
Bob, could this tool go by another name? Searched Sears' web site without
success using IR temperature gun. Thanks, Blitz
Message 18
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Hey Mark,
I have an IR gun. We found a dead cylinder that way. Had to grind the valve
on #2 (exhaust). We sorted out the mag issue the way you described. But the
coil (more appropriately) the capacitor(paper) in the coil, began failing
about 20 min by the clock inflight. A lot of figure 8's over the aerodrome
to sort that out. Paticularly when the "new Mag", was a centripetal advance
for the TW but stamped M-14f! Talk about shake rattle and roll. I prefered
high spead taxi test after that.
The airborn mag check is good for when you are already airborn, in my
humble opinion. Hell, I still have not coxed my left testicle out of my ass
after that intial month long round of airborn mag checks and that was over
a year ago! I not much for taking my rosey pink ass airborn with a
questionable airplane anymore!
Life's to short and I have already used up way to many heartbeats to have
many left for those two gaspers!
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G <BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
> To: yak-list@matronics.com <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 10/3/2005 3:53:44 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: Blubbering
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G
<BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil>
>
> Just another observation:
>
> Roger, you and optionally every other aircraft owner (who does some work
on
> their own) but ESPECIALLY round engine owners should immediately go down
to
> Sears and purchase their IR Temperature gun. Raychem and others sell ones
> that are just as good or better, but man oh man... does everyone just HAVE
> to have one of these suckers in their toolbox. Figure on around $80 for a
> good one, and they are worth twice that for the time they will save you.
>
> For your problem, I would suggest making some checks (not necessarily in
the
> order I give them). First, I strongly suspect that this is electrical and
> not fuel related. Just for a check though, when it occurs, lower the
power,
> then turn the fuel primer to the cylinder primer side, don't pull it out,
> just turn it. This will REALLY enrich your engine fuel/air ratio, and if
> the engine is having a lean miss, this will help isolate it. I doubt this
> is your problem, but it's a test... and it's simple.
>
> Second, start running in flight mag tests on climb out. The engine miss
you
> are experiencing suggests that BOTH plugs are missing on that cylinder.
You
> might be able to make mag checks BEFORE it gets bad enough that it is
> shaking the aircraft so badly. If you CAN get it to do this, you're
golden.
> Simply leave the mag switch the way it is, let it continue missing and get
> on the ground as soon as possible and use your new IR heat readout gun to
> check cylinder head temp. on all 9 jugs. The one that is missing
> consistently will stand out like a sore thumb on your readouts with a
lower
> temp. The trick here is to obviously get on deck and get a reading before
> things equalize.
>
> Change the plugs.... if you have a spare set already.... do that now. It
> could easily just be a plug issue. As for the engine conversion harness
to
> use racing automobile wires AND plugs.... you betcha.... I have personal
> experience with a FEW aircraft using this kit and it is the cat's meow.
Or
> dogs rear, or whatever.... :-) It does NOT introduce more noise into the
> radio's noise floor. I was really worried about that and ran very
specific
> tests looking at sig to noise ratios before and after the conversion. I
saw
> no change at all... if anything, with the new kit, the noise went DOWN.
> Hard to believe, but true. Plus, with the reduced cost that you save
with a
> spark plug change... you'll have paid for it the first time you need new
> plugs. Further, if you ever have a bad wire, it is now minutes to change
> and not hours, as it is now.. or worse yet, you lose the new wire in the
> original "tube"... you don't want to experience that disaster. I was
> worried about rain. No problems with rain... the kit just is perfect. I
am
> going to order one for myself as a Christmas present (for me).
>
> Experiment with running the engine (cowl in place) at high power to get
the
> temps up near the yellow... and see if you can duplicate the miss like
this
> on the deck... again, as soon as you do, run it for a couple of minutes
> while it is missing and then zap it with the IR Temp gun. Instant
success.
> Believe me, that gun works.
>
> I just went on a cross country to Pennsylvania from North Carolina. Half
> way up there, I felt a little vibration that was new. MAG CHECK followed
> and I had a miss on the rear plugs. (Switch on "1" as miss happened) I
got
> to Brandywine Airport, ran the engine on the bad mag for 3 minutes, popped
> out, used the IR gun, found a bad cylinder (#7) and replaced the rear
> plug..... total time, 30 minutes. Good to go problem fixed. The IR gun
> also has great uses on cars, checking radiators, you name it.
>
> Take care,
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Fitzpatrick [mailto:rmfitz@direcway.com]
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Blubbering
>
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Bob Fitzpatrick <rmfitz@direcway.com>
>
> Doc,
> Only on take off, full power: 85 MP & 98% RPM. I often leave the
> throttle wide open during an entire flight (RPM back to 80- 85%) with a
> lot of climbs similar to take off but without the roughness.
> bob
>
> Roger Kemp wrote:
>
> >--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
> >
> >Bob,
> >Does it occure only on Take Off at what % RPM and mmHg manifold pressure?
> >Doc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>[Original Message]
> >>From: Bob Fitzpatrick <rmfitz@direcway.com>
> >>To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>Date: 10/2/2005 12:11:55 AM
> >>Subject: Yak-List: Blubbering
> >>
> >>--> Yak-List message posted by: Bob Fitzpatrick <rmfitz@direcway.com>
> >>
> >>Yakkers;
> >>
> >>In 5 yrs of M14 yak flying the possibility of a "blubber" on take-off
> >>has been a given. The guy that sold me the airplane warned me about it
> >>and i warn my GIBs. I always thought it was loading of the lower
> >>cylinders or something like that and just lived with it. Now the
> >>experience is getting more frequent and prolonged. People on the
ground
> >>are noticing. Used to be i'd get a little miss at 500' when climbing
> >>out, now it's at 200' and lasts for 10 sec. Oil & fuel pressure stay
> >>solid, can't say abt RPM & MP since the needles are longer and they are
> >>shaking too much at that point to be conclusive .It's always momentary
> >>and does not repeat during all the unusual attitudes of the following
> >>acro flight which should eliminate a lot of possibilities. I'm
> >>religious about having temps in the green prior to take off. If the
> >>plugs are shorting out due to extended run-up/warm up then what would
> >>make them heal themselves in a matter of seconds? What going on? TIA.
> >>
> >>bob
> >>Boris 52BN
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | IR Temperature Gun |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Try the Granger Tools site. They have them, but not cheap. Worth their wt
in gold though when chassing down dead cylinders.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: <ByronMFox@aol.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 10/3/2005 4:19:20 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: IR Temperature Gun
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 10/3/05 1:55:09 PM, BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil
> writes:
>
>
> > IR Temperature gun
> >
>
> Bob, could this tool go by another name? Searched Sears' web site without
> success using IR temperature gun. Thanks, Blitz
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: IR Temperature Gun |
--> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
Many thanks, Mark. ...Blitz
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Ha, this is worth reading |
--> Yak-List message posted by: PeteAbbott@aol.com
Thought you all might enjoy this,
Whoever said the pen is mightier than the sword obviously never encountered
automatic weapons."
- General MacArthur
"You, you, and you ... Panic. The rest of you, come with me."
- U.S. Marine Corp Gunnery Sgt.
"Though I Fly Through the Valley of Death ... I Shall Fear No Evil. For I am
at 80,000 Feet and Climbing."
- At the entrance to the old SR-71 operating base Kadena, Japan
"You've never been lost until you've been lost at Mach 3."
- Paul F. Crickmore (test pilot)
"The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire."
"Blue water Navy truism: There are more planes in the ocean than submarines
in the sky."
From an old carrier sailor
"If the wings are traveling faster than the fuselage, it's probably a
helicopter -- and therefore, unsafe."
"When one engine fails on a twin-engine airplane you always have enough
power left to get you to the scene of the crash."
"Without ammunition, the USAF would be just another expensive flying club."
"What is the similarity between air traffic controllers and pilots? If a
pilot screws up, the pilot dies; If ATC screws up, . the pilot dies."
"Never trade luck for skill."
The three most common expressions (or famous last words) in aviation are:
"Why is it doing that?"
"Where are we?"
and "OH SHIT!"
"Weather forecasts are horoscopes with numbers."
"Progress in airline flying: now a flight attendant can get a pilot
pregnant."
Airspeed, altitude and brains. Two are always needed to successfully
complete the flight."
"A smooth landing is mostly luck; two in a row is all luck; three in a row
is prevarication."
"I remember when sex was safe and flying was dangerous."
"Mankind has a perfect record in aviation; we never left one up there!"
"Flashlights are tubular metal containers kept in a flight bag for the
purpose of storing dead batteries."
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person
on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
"When a flight is proceeding incredibly well, something was forgotten."
"Just remember, if you crash because of weather, your funeral will be held
on a sunny day."
Advice given to RAF pilots during WWII: "When a prang (crash) seems
inevitable, endeavor to strike the softest, cheapest object in the vicinity as
slow
and gently as possible."
"The Piper Cub is the safest airplane in the world; it can just barely kill
you."
- Attributed to Max Stanley (Northrop test pilot)
"A pilot who doesn't have any fear probably isn't flying his plane to its
maximum."
- Jon McBride, astronaut
"If you're faced with a forced landing, fly the thing as far into the crash
as possible."
- Bob Hoover (renowned aerobatic and test pilot)
"Never fly in the same cockpit with someone braver than you."
"There is no reason to fly through a thunderstorm in peacetime."
- Sign over squadron ops desk at Davis-Monthan AFB, AZ, 1970
"If something hasn't broken on your helicopter, it's about to."
Basic Flying Rules: "Try to stay in the middle of the air. Do not go near
the edges of it. The edges of the air can be recognized by the appearance of
ground, buildings, sea, trees and interstellar space. It is much more difficult
to fly
Pete Abbott N852GC
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ron Spencer" <splitimage.wing@verizon.net>
Appreciate the input.
-rs-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
>
> Visited the site, and noted that SV08-21 is a "normally open valve", I
> think
> you would want a "normally closed" valve. Also could not find prices, or
> any info as to rather this unit could stand the rigors of the engine
> compartment-- solvent wash down, high heat or moisture, etc. It has been
> my
> experience that most of these type of controls are made to be used in a
> very
> clean and temp controlled environment. I would suggest talking to their
> tech folks before spending any money.
>
> Always Yakin,
> Doug Sapp
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Laird
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Yak 55M starting air valve...cont
>
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
>
>>
>> My mech has pretty much isolated the probalem...therefore, my
>> question to
>> one and all is where can I find the following part?
>>
>> "Hydraforce Inc" 24 volt, air valve, part number SV08-21
>
> Ron,
> try this link:
>
> http://www.hydraforce.com/HFCatalog/(33lc4t552t1ryj55fb1ssn55)/
> CatPage.aspx?ModelID=SV08-21
>
>
> The website also has links to distributors...
>
> http://www.hydraforce.com/Distribs/World.htm
>
>
> but you may want to to forgo telling them it's for an aircraft...
> some people don't
> sell stuff to hang on airplanes.... but if it was for a boat, or a
> machine shop system, then no problem!
>
> good luck,
>
>
> Dave Laird
> N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
> Dallas
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: IR Temperature Gun |
--> Yak-List message posted by: ggg6@att.net
I use a RayTech MiniTemp FS......click on the following site address and scroll
down untill You find the FS......Gary
SERVE-SAFE Food Hygiene Training Services
Raytech MINITEMP FS Infrared Thermometer. This infrared thermometer reads food
surface temperatures (-30C to 200C) without contact which means no ...
http://www.servesafefood.com.au/foodsafety.htm - Cached
-------------- Original message from ByronMFox@aol.com: --------------
> --> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 10/3/05 1:55:09 PM, BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil
> writes:
>
>
> > IR Temperature gun
> >
>
> Bob, could this tool go by another name? Searched Sears' web site without
> success using IR temperature gun. Thanks, Blitz
>
>
>
>
>
>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
I use a RayTech MiniTemp FS......click on the following site address and scroll
down untill You find the FS......Gary
SERVE-SAFE Food Hygiene Training Services
Raytech MINITEMP FS Infrared Thermometer. This infrared thermometer reads food
surface temperatures (-30C to 200C) without contact which means no ...
http://www.servesafefood.com.au/foodsafety.htm - Cached
-------------- Original message from ByronMFox@aol.com: --------------
-- Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
In a message dated 10/3/05 1:55:09 PM, BitterlichMG@cherrypoint.usmc.mil
writes:
IR Temperature gun
Bob, could this tool go by another name? Searched Sears' web site without
success using IR temperature gun. Thanks, Blitz
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: IR Temperature Gun |
--> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
In a message dated 10/3/2005 6:41:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, ggg6@att.net
writes:
I use a RayTech MiniTemp FS......click on the following site address and
scroll down untill You find the FS......Gary
Ordered one today, Gary. Thanks, Blitz
Message 25
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Naomi Siu" <horizontrekkers@comcast.net>
I've had the same intermittent problem with my Yak 52 for the past 4 years.
We changed the ignition harness to one made by Savage Magneto and the
problem persists. The only consistent pattern is that it commonly appears
on warm days during low approaches at higher rpm settings (82%). I've
already checked all fuel filters and they are all completely clean. I'm
almost completely convinced that there is an internal problem with the carb.
My guess is that the altitude barometer is "sticking" and causing an overly
lean condition and the engine is being starved for fuel. My next step is to
swap the carb and then tear down the original to see if anything looks
amiss.
Dave Peterson
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