Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:55 AM - L-29 Formation (cjpilot710@aol.com)
2. 05:26 AM - Re: L-29 Formation (Michael Bolton)
3. 08:22 AM - CJ6 main wheel tire change (Dave Laird)
4. 08:51 AM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Roger Kemp)
5. 08:56 AM - Auburn, AL Fun Fly this weekend (David McGirt)
6. 08:56 AM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (A. Dennis Savarese)
7. 09:07 AM - Re: Auburn, AL Fun Fly this weekend (A. Dennis Savarese)
8. 09:44 AM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Dave Laird)
9. 10:04 AM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Walter Lannon)
10. 11:33 AM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (A. Dennis Savarese)
11. 12:56 PM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (KingCJ6@aol.com)
12. 02:02 PM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Roger Kemp)
13. 02:14 PM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Dave Laird)
14. 04:20 PM - Re: Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Craig Payne)
15. 04:30 PM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (cjpilot710@aol.com)
16. 05:06 PM - Re: L-29 Formation (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
17. 05:13 PM - Re: L-29 Formation (Stephen Fox)
18. 05:36 PM - Re: L-29 Formation (cjpilot710@aol.com)
19. 05:44 PM - Re: L-29 Formation (Stephen Fox)
20. 08:13 PM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Roger Kemp)
21. 10:23 PM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Walter Lannon)
22. 10:42 PM - Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Mike Bell)
23. 10:56 PM - Re: Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change (Walter Lannon)
Message 1
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Gentlemen,
Lurking here I see a pattern in you decision making. It revolves around the
amount of fuel these airplanes burn and the cost of that fuel right now.
If some of you do not have any formation time, its going to take you a good
number of hours to learn. It cannot be done in one or two flights. Not
realistic nor safe.
Perhaps you should get the basics in something a lot cheaper to run. RPA
has formation clinics though out the year. One is happening May 4-7 out there
in PTV.
You may be able to get a fellow member out there to let you use his/her
airplane for gas and oil while they ride in the back seat and instructed. There
is a lot of folks in RPA who are willing to help. A lot of times there are
experienced jet jocks (ex military) out there who will happily going GIBing.
Formation time in a slower (cheaper Yak or CJ) is the same as in a L-29.
The skill levels, physics, and geometries are the same, and across the aircraft
spectrum. SA and following the rules can be learned a lot cheaper that way.
If you have the formation time already (military lets say) I can understand
and as a FAST check pilot, readily see guys get the their FAST cards in 2 or
3 flights. That is the exception. If you have zero time in formation, I see
guys averaging 8 hours (8-10 flights) to get it down. I am talking here of
skill levels needed for a FAST card.
Remember the FAST card is only good in ONE place and one place only. It is
good only in the wavered airspace at airshows. It has absolutely NO VALUE
any place else. Having said that do not expect a FAST check pilot to hand
these cards out wily nilly.
BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's web site
at (_www.flyredstar.org_ (http://www.flyredstar.org) ) plus there is a flight
standards section, that check pilots follow in check rides.
Hope this helps some.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: L-29 Formation |
Great info Pappy. I am looking forward to getting started.
Michael
----- Original Message -----
From: cjpilot710@aol.com
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: Yak-List: L-29 Formation
Gentlemen,
Lurking here I see a pattern in you decision making. It revolves around the
amount of fuel these airplanes burn and the cost of that fuel right now.
If some of you do not have any formation time, its going to take you a good number
of hours to learn. It cannot be done in one or two flights. Not realistic
nor safe.
Perhaps you should get the basics in something a lot cheaper to run. RPA has
formation clinics though out the year. One is happening May 4-7 out there in
PTV.
You may be able to get a fellow member out there to let you use his/her airplane
for gas and oil while they ride in the back seat and instructed. There is
a lot of folks in RPA who are willing to help. A lot of times there are experienced
jet jocks (ex military) out there who will happily going GIBing.
Formation time in a slower (cheaper Yak or CJ) is the same as in a L-29. The
skill levels, physics, and geometries are the same, and across the aircraft spectrum.
SA and following the rules can be learned a lot cheaper that way.
If you have the formation time already (military lets say) I can understand and
as a FAST check pilot, readily see guys get the their FAST cards in 2 or 3
flights. That is the exception. If you have zero time in formation, I see guys
averaging 8 hours (8-10 flights) to get it down. I am talking here of skill
levels needed for a FAST card.
Remember the FAST card is only good in ONE place and one place only. It is good
only in the wavered airspace at airshows. It has absolutely NO VALUE any
place else. Having said that do not expect a FAST check pilot to hand these cards
out wily nilly.
BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's web site at (www.flyredstar.org) plus there is a flight standards section, that check pilots follow in check rides.
Hope this helps some.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
Message 3
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Subject: | CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
I'm going to be changing my main wheel tires on my CJ in the next two
weeks and
don't know how the split rim thing works.
Anybody want to take a stab at the correct procedure?
If not, can we talk about flight suits some more? ;)
Dave Laird
N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
Dallas
Message 4
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Subject: | CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Prior to removal of the tire, wrap your flight suit around it so that it is
well protected for the flash fire that will surely occure when you start
cursing the tabs!
I do believe Dennis Savarese has tackled this issue on more than one ChiYAK
and can walk you through as can Doug Sapp and a host of others. I'm just
along for comic relief!
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 3/9/2006 10:31:14 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
> I'm going to be changing my main wheel tires on my CJ in the next two
> weeks and
> don't know how the split rim thing works.
>
> Anybody want to take a stab at the correct procedure?
>
> If not, can we talk about flight suits some more? ;)
>
>
> Dave Laird
> N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
> Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Auburn, AL Fun Fly this weekend |
To all of those coming:
Tim Williams spoke to one of the coordinators, and here is the scoop for
Saturday:
" Spoke with one of the coordinators of the flyin yesterday, he said the
runs would be over by 8:30 am, he wanted planes in between 9:00-10:00 am.
Said 18/36 would be closed for the run, but other runway would stay open."
So plan on arriving ~ 9-10am , if you are coming, please drop me an email,
so I know who to look for.
Those that I know about:
Tim Williams
David McGirt
Dennis Savarese
BJ Kennamore
Roger "Doc" Kemp - Maybe
See you there, War Eagle..
David
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
1- Remove the wheel assembly from the airplane
2- Deflate the tire by removing the valve core
3- Look at the valve stem and you will see a nut and washer holding the
valve stem in place on the rim. Remove the nut and washer.
4- Use two large screwdrivers or similar tools, insert the screwdriver or
tool between the tire and outside rim. Press down on the screwdriver to
release the tire bead from the rim. Do this in several locations around the
rim until the bead has broken away from the rim. Repeat for the other side
of the rim and tire.
5- Once both the top and bottom tire beads have been broken away from the
rim, place the wheel assembly on a suitable pad with the brake drum down.
Now press the outside of rim down. The two large semi-circular clips will
release between the rim and the hub. Remove the clips noting precisely
which way you removed them. They are not the same length from the notch to
the end in both directions. It is important when reassembling the rim to
make sure one end of the clip is NOT extending over the valve stem area.
6- After the clips are removed, lift the outer rim up and away from the hub.
Next lift the tire and tube up and away from the hub. There should be a
thin metal sleeve over the valve stem. It has a 90 degree bend at the top
with a hole in it for the valve stem.
Reassembly
7- Spread talcum powder or similar inside the new tire. This will allow the
tube to slide uniformly inside the tire when you inflate it.
8- Find the red dot on the new tire. Insert the tube and align the valve
stem with the red dot on the new tire. Remove the valve core from the new
tube. Inflate the tube in the new tire to evenly spread the tube inside the
new tire. Allow the tube to deflate. Again, check the alignment of the
valve stem on the tube to the red dot. Be sure to keep the rubber valve
stem guard on the tube.
9- Spray some soapy water on the beads of the tire.
10- With the valve stem up, place the new tire and tube over the hub.
11- Next place the outer rim over the hub, being sure you align the notches
of the rim to the hub. These are for the big clips to fit into. Once
again, check the alignment of the valve stem to the red dot on the tire.
Realign if necessary.
12- Place the metal sleeve back over the valve stem.
13- Place the washer and screw the nut loosely onto the valve stem.
14- Place the large clips on the rim making sure one end does not cover the
opening of the valve stem. The clip should not protrude at all into the
valve stem cavity.
15- Press down firmly on the outer rim and while doing so press the large
clips in place. Once in place they will lock the rim to the hub.
16- Insert the valve core into the valve stem.
17- Inflate the tire making sure the clips seat properly between the rim and
hub.
18- Tighten the nut on the valve stem to allow the valve stem to protrude
approximately 1/2" or above the nut.
Any questions, please ask.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Laird" <dave@davelaird.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 10:19 AM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
> I'm going to be changing my main wheel tires on my CJ in the next two
> weeks and
> don't know how the split rim thing works.
>
> Anybody want to take a stab at the correct procedure?
>
> If not, can we talk about flight suits some more? ;)
>
>
> Dave Laird
> N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
> Dallas
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Auburn, AL Fun Fly this weekend |
David,
Jim Cook will also be there and may have his 52 and/or Yak 9 on the ramp.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: David McGirt
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Auburn, AL Fun Fly this weekend
To all of those coming:
Tim Williams spoke to one of the coordinators, and here is the scoop for Saturday:
" Spoke with one of the coordinators of the flyin yesterday, he said the runs
would be over by 8:30 am, he wanted planes in between 9:00-10:00 am. Said 18/36
would be closed for the run, but other runway would stay open."
So plan on arriving ~ 9-10am , if you are coming, please drop me an email, so
I know who to look for.
Those that I know about:
Tim Williams
David McGirt
Dennis Savarese
BJ Kennamore
Roger "Doc" Kemp - Maybe
See you there, War Eagle..
David
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
great post!
thanks dennis!
Dave
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
Hey Dennis, et al ---
Don't have time to read the whole article right now but I do suggest you
through those screwdrivers away. That is a guaranteed method of causing
irreparable damage to the wheel.
If absolutely necessary you may use tire irons with great care (right shape,
no sharp edges) but even that is usually not required. The right tool is a
heavy dead blow rubberized mallet and maybe an extra guy to stand on the
opposite side.
Later;
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese"
> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
>
> 1- Remove the wheel assembly from the airplane
> 2- Deflate the tire by removing the valve core
> 3- Look at the valve stem and you will see a nut and washer holding the
> valve stem in place on the rim. Remove the nut and washer.
> 4- Use two large screwdrivers or similar tools, insert the screwdriver or
> tool between the tire and outside rim. Press down on the screwdriver to
> release the tire bead from the rim. Do this in several locations around
> the rim until the bead has broken away from the rim. Repeat for the other
> side of the rim and tire.
> 5- Once both the top and bottom tire beads have been broken away from the
> rim, place the wheel assembly on a suitable pad with the brake drum down.
> Now press the outside of rim down. The two large semi-circular clips will
> release between the rim and the hub. Remove the clips noting precisely
> which way you removed them. They are not the same length from the notch
> to the end in both directions. It is important when reassembling the rim
> to make sure one end of the clip is NOT extending over the valve stem
> area.
> 6- After the clips are removed, lift the outer rim up and away from the
> hub. Next lift the tire and tube up and away from the hub. There should
> be a thin metal sleeve over the valve stem. It has a 90 degree bend at
> the top with a hole in it for the valve stem.
>
> Reassembly
> 7- Spread talcum powder or similar inside the new tire. This will allow
> the tube to slide uniformly inside the tire when you inflate it.
> 8- Find the red dot on the new tire. Insert the tube and align the valve
> stem with the red dot on the new tire. Remove the valve core from the new
> tube. Inflate the tube in the new tire to evenly spread the tube inside
> the new tire. Allow the tube to deflate. Again, check the alignment of
> the valve stem on the tube to the red dot. Be sure to keep the rubber
> valve stem guard on the tube.
> 9- Spray some soapy water on the beads of the tire.
> 10- With the valve stem up, place the new tire and tube over the hub.
> 11- Next place the outer rim over the hub, being sure you align the
> notches of the rim to the hub. These are for the big clips to fit into.
> Once again, check the alignment of the valve stem to the red dot on the
> tire. Realign if necessary.
> 12- Place the metal sleeve back over the valve stem.
> 13- Place the washer and screw the nut loosely onto the valve stem.
> 14- Place the large clips on the rim making sure one end does not cover
> the opening of the valve stem. The clip should not protrude at all into
> the valve stem cavity.
> 15- Press down firmly on the outer rim and while doing so press the large
> clips in place. Once in place they will lock the rim to the hub.
> 16- Insert the valve core into the valve stem.
> 17- Inflate the tire making sure the clips seat properly between the rim
> and hub.
> 18- Tighten the nut on the valve stem to allow the valve stem to protrude
> approximately 1/2" or above the nut.
>
> Any questions, please ask.
> Dennis
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Laird" <dave@davelaird.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 10:19 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
>
>
>> --> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>>
>> I'm going to be changing my main wheel tires on my CJ in the next two
>> weeks and
>> don't know how the split rim thing works.
>>
>> Anybody want to take a stab at the correct procedure?
>>
>> If not, can we talk about flight suits some more? ;)
>>
>>
>> Dave Laird
>> N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
>> Dallas
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Hi Walt,
You're correct about the tire irons. I have tried the supersized dead blow
hammers and had no luck with them. As an alternative I have taken the wheel
assembly to an automotive tire store where they have the air driven tire
bead breaking equipment. It takes them about 2 seconds and they usually
don't charge you any money because it was so quick.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
>
> Hey Dennis, et al ---
>
> Don't have time to read the whole article right now but I do suggest you
> through those screwdrivers away. That is a guaranteed method of causing
> irreparable damage to the wheel.
>
> If absolutely necessary you may use tire irons with great care (right
> shape, no sharp edges) but even that is usually not required. The right
> tool is a heavy dead blow rubberized mallet and maybe an extra guy to
> stand on the opposite side.
>
> Later;
> Walt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 8:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
>
>
>> --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese"
>> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
>>
>> 1- Remove the wheel assembly from the airplane
>> 2- Deflate the tire by removing the valve core
>> 3- Look at the valve stem and you will see a nut and washer holding the
>> valve stem in place on the rim. Remove the nut and washer.
>> 4- Use two large screwdrivers or similar tools, insert the screwdriver or
>> tool between the tire and outside rim. Press down on the screwdriver to
>> release the tire bead from the rim. Do this in several locations around
>> the rim until the bead has broken away from the rim. Repeat for the
>> other side of the rim and tire.
>> 5- Once both the top and bottom tire beads have been broken away from the
>> rim, place the wheel assembly on a suitable pad with the brake drum down.
>> Now press the outside of rim down. The two large semi-circular clips
>> will release between the rim and the hub. Remove the clips noting
>> precisely which way you removed them. They are not the same length from
>> the notch to the end in both directions. It is important when
>> reassembling the rim to make sure one end of the clip is NOT extending
>> over the valve stem area.
>> 6- After the clips are removed, lift the outer rim up and away from the
>> hub. Next lift the tire and tube up and away from the hub. There should
>> be a thin metal sleeve over the valve stem. It has a 90 degree bend at
>> the top with a hole in it for the valve stem.
>>
>> Reassembly
>> 7- Spread talcum powder or similar inside the new tire. This will allow
>> the tube to slide uniformly inside the tire when you inflate it.
>> 8- Find the red dot on the new tire. Insert the tube and align the valve
>> stem with the red dot on the new tire. Remove the valve core from the
>> new tube. Inflate the tube in the new tire to evenly spread the tube
>> inside the new tire. Allow the tube to deflate. Again, check the
>> alignment of the valve stem on the tube to the red dot. Be sure to keep
>> the rubber valve stem guard on the tube.
>> 9- Spray some soapy water on the beads of the tire.
>> 10- With the valve stem up, place the new tire and tube over the hub.
>> 11- Next place the outer rim over the hub, being sure you align the
>> notches of the rim to the hub. These are for the big clips to fit into.
>> Once again, check the alignment of the valve stem to the red dot on the
>> tire. Realign if necessary.
>> 12- Place the metal sleeve back over the valve stem.
>> 13- Place the washer and screw the nut loosely onto the valve stem.
>> 14- Place the large clips on the rim making sure one end does not cover
>> the opening of the valve stem. The clip should not protrude at all into
>> the valve stem cavity.
>> 15- Press down firmly on the outer rim and while doing so press the large
>> clips in place. Once in place they will lock the rim to the hub.
>> 16- Insert the valve core into the valve stem.
>> 17- Inflate the tire making sure the clips seat properly between the rim
>> and hub.
>> 18- Tighten the nut on the valve stem to allow the valve stem to protrude
>> approximately 1/2" or above the nut.
>>
>> Any questions, please ask.
>> Dennis
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dave Laird" <dave@davelaird.com>
>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 10:19 AM
>> Subject: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
>>
>>
>>> --> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>>>
>>> I'm going to be changing my main wheel tires on my CJ in the next two
>>> weeks and
>>> don't know how the split rim thing works.
>>>
>>> Anybody want to take a stab at the correct procedure?
>>>
>>> If not, can we talk about flight suits some more? ;)
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Laird
>>> N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
>>> Dallas
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
Harbor Freight has a simple "Mini-tire Changer" for $39 that works great.
_http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34552_
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34552)
Dave
In a message dated 3/9/2006 11:35:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dsavarese@elmore.rr.com writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese"
<dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Hi Walt,
You're correct about the tire irons. I have tried the supersized dead blow
hammers and had no luck with them. As an alternative I have taken the wheel
assembly to an automotive tire store where they have the air driven tire
bead breaking equipment. It takes them about 2 seconds and they usually
don't charge you any money because it was so quick.
Dennis
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
Dave,
Thanks for the info.
Dennis,
The hanger now has a tire bead breaker on the way.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: 3/9/2006 3:03:27 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
Harbor Freight has a simple "Mini-tire Changer" for $39 that works great.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34552
Dave
In a message dated 3/9/2006 11:35:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, dsavarese@elmore.rr.com
writes:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Hi Walt,
You're correct about the tire irons. I have tried the supersized dead blow
hammers and had no luck with them. As an alternative I have taken the wheel
assembly to an automotive tire store where they have the air driven tire
bead breaking equipment. It takes them about 2 seconds and they usually
don't charge you any money because it was so quick.
Dennis
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
funny....
MY hangar now ALSO
has a tire bead breaker on the way, too....
Dave (Laird) also thanks Dave (King)
On Mar 9, 2006, at 4:00 PM, Roger Kemp wrote:
> Dave,
> Thanks for the info.
> Dennis,
> The hanger now has a tire bead breaker on the way.
> Doc
>
f
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
Good description Dennis, but don't forget the 3 short little pins that fit UNDER
the clip halves that align the 2 wheel halves. They fiendishly and steathily
drop out on the hanger floor without notice!
Craig Payne
.
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
Don't forget to use a little MMO, or WD 40 or even Mouse Milk. Makes
releasing that bead a whole lot eraser.
Pappy
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BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's web site
at (www.flyredstar.org) plus there is a flight standards section, that check
pilots follow in check rides.
Pappy, does one have to pay and become an RPA member in order to download
those free formation manuals?
Just curious.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of cjpilot710@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:52 AM
Subject: Yak-List: L-29 Formation
Gentlemen,
Lurking here I see a pattern in you decision making. It revolves around the
amount of fuel these airplanes burn and the cost of that fuel right now.
If some of you do not have any formation time, its going to take you a good
number of hours to learn. It cannot be done in one or two flights. Not
realistic nor safe.
Perhaps you should get the basics in something a lot cheaper to run. RPA
has formation clinics though out the year. One is happening May 4-7 out
there in PTV.
You may be able to get a fellow member out there to let you use his/her
airplane for gas and oil while they ride in the back seat and instructed.
There is a lot of folks in RPA who are willing to help. A lot of times
there are experienced jet jocks (ex military) out there who will happily
going GIBing.
Formation time in a slower (cheaper Yak or CJ) is the same as in a L-29.
The skill levels, physics, and geometries are the same, and across the
aircraft spectrum. SA and following the rules can be learned a lot cheaper
that way.
If you have the formation time already (military lets say) I can understand
and as a FAST check pilot, readily see guys get the their FAST cards in 2 or
3 flights. That is the exception. If you have zero time in formation, I
see guys averaging 8 hours (8-10 flights) to get it down. I am talking here
of skill levels needed for a FAST card.
Remember the FAST card is only good in ONE place and one place only. It is
good only in the wavered airspace at airshows. It has absolutely NO VALUE
any place else. Having said that do not expect a FAST check pilot to hand
these cards out wily nilly.
BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's web site
at (www.flyredstar.org) plus there is a flight standards section, that check
pilots follow in check rides.
Hope this helps some.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: L-29 Formation |
Yes
On Mar 9, 2006, at 8:05 PM, Bitterlich GS11 Mark G wrote:
> BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's
> web site at (www.flyredstar.org) plus there is a flight standards
> section, that check pilots follow in check rides.
>
>
> Pappy, does one have to pay and become an RPA member in order to
> download those free formation manuals?
>
> Just curious.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-
> server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of cjpilot710@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:52 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: L-29 Formation
>
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> Lurking here I see a pattern in you decision making. It revolves
> around the amount of fuel these airplanes burn and the cost of that
> fuel right now.
>
> If some of you do not have any formation time, its going to take
> you a good number of hours to learn. It cannot be done in one or
> two flights. Not realistic nor safe.
>
> Perhaps you should get the basics in something a lot cheaper to
> run. RPA has formation clinics though out the year. One is
> happening May 4-7 out there in PTV.
>
> You may be able to get a fellow member out there to let you use his/
> her airplane for gas and oil while they ride in the back seat and
> instructed. There is a lot of folks in RPA who are willing to
> help. A lot of times there are experienced jet jocks (ex military)
> out there who will happily going GIBing.
>
> Formation time in a slower (cheaper Yak or CJ) is the same as in a
> L-29. The skill levels, physics, and geometries are the same, and
> across the aircraft spectrum. SA and following the rules can be
> learned a lot cheaper that way.
>
> If you have the formation time already (military lets say) I can
> understand and as a FAST check pilot, readily see guys get the
> their FAST cards in 2 or 3 flights. That is the exception. If you
> have zero time in formation, I see guys averaging 8 hours (8-10
> flights) to get it down. I am talking here of skill levels needed
> for a FAST card.
>
> Remember the FAST card is only good in ONE place and one place
> only. It is good only in the wavered airspace at airshows. It has
> absolutely NO VALUE any place else. Having said that do not expect
> a FAST check pilot to hand these cards out wily nilly.
>
> BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's
> web site at (www.flyredstar.org) plus there is a flight standards
> section, that check pilots follow in check rides.
>
> Hope this helps some.
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: L-29 Formation |
BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's web site
at (www.flyredstar.org) plus there is a flight standards section, that check
pilots follow in check rides.
Pappy, does one have to pay and become an RPA member in order to download
those free formation manuals?
Just curious.
Mark Bitterlich
Nope, you do not have to be a member to down load the manuals. All the
paper stuff you need is there.
Pappy
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: L-29 Formation |
Pappy-
You sure. I tried to get raining docs, just to see if you could
without signing in and was asked for user name and password.
Steve Fox
On Mar 9, 2006, at 8:35 PM, cjpilot710@aol.com wrote:
> BTW you can pick-up the entire formation manual free, off of RPA's
> web site at (www.flyredstar.org) plus there is a flight standards
> section, that check pilots follow in check rides.
>
> Pappy, does one have to pay and become an RPA member in order to
> download those free formation manuals?
>
> Just curious.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
> Nope, you do not have to be a member to down load the manuals. All
> the paper stuff you need is there.
>
> Pappy
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
Mouse mIlk? How do you keep the little buggers from biting through your gloves
when you pinch their teats!
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: 3/9/2006 6:39:46 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
Don't forget to use a little MMO, or WD 40 or even Mouse Milk. Makes releasing
that bead a whole lot eraser.
Pappy
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
Well, OK, but make sure all that stuff is 100% removed before you install the new
tire. Must be clean and dry. If not you may find your tire rotating on the
wheel during brake application and shearing off the tube stem. Not good.
If you are re-installing the same tire don't do that.
Good plan to paint creep marks on the wheel and tire after installation so you
can check for movement.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: cjpilot710@aol.com
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ6 main wheel tire change
Don't forget to use a little MMO, or WD 40 or even Mouse Milk. Makes releasing
that bead a whole lot eraser.
Pappy
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>
Are Yak-52 wheels the same?
--------
Mike Bell
Yak 52
Elk Grove, CA
yakflyr@comcastdotnet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=20761#20761
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
Yes.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 10:41 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: CJ6 main wheel tire change
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>
>
> Are Yak-52 wheels the same?
>
> --------
> Mike Bell
> Yak 52
> Elk Grove, CA
> yakflyr@comcastdotnet
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=20761#20761
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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