Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (Bill Walker)
2. 05:43 AM - Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (A. Dennis Savarese)
3. 06:19 AM - Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (Bill Walker)
4. 07:56 AM - Re: importing (Hank Gibson)
5. 09:35 AM - Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (Jim Bernier)
6. 09:49 AM - CJ Service Techs in USA (Hank Gibson)
7. 09:58 AM - Re: CJ Service Techs in USA (Jim Bernier)
8. 01:17 PM - Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (Bitterlich GS11 Mark G)
9. 01:29 PM - Re: Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (Craig Payne)
10. 01:48 PM - Re: Re: Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (doug sapp)
11. 04:58 PM - mag drop and warm cyl (Bill Walker)
12. 06:26 PM - Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. (Roger Kemp)
13. 08:27 PM - Re: CJ Service Techs in USA (ByronMFox@aol.com)
14. 10:41 PM - Mig-15 paper airplane (Sarah Tobin)
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| Subject: | excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
Last July just before OSH I got water in the ignition wires on my
regular 52. After various methods of drying out the wires, I ended up
fouling the champions, so I replaced them with the Chinese plugs. ran
well with good mag checks but I immediately noticed a little higher
cylinder head temps at various power settings. After a few months, I
began to experience mag checks in excess of 3 percent. mag checks
degraded to 5 or 6 percent drop on both mags but the engine ran smooth.
I changed out the ignition harness and plugs with the kit from Dennis,
checked timing, point gaps, and plug gaps. The engine starts easy, runs
smooth, and develops 100 percent RPM, but I still get a 5 percent mag
drop during a static run up whether before or after a flight, and
cylinder head temps are still 10 to 20 degrees higher than normal during
all phases of operation. Also compression checked over 70/80 on all
cylinders. I have not measured the valve clearances lately, I suppose I
could have an exhaust valve not opening completely. Any Ideas, anyone ?
Dennis?
Wild Bill
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
Bill,
Just a couple of questions first -
-What did you use to set TDC when you checked/set the timing?
-What did you set the timing to? The spec is 14-16 degrees BTDC as
measured at the propeller flange.
-When you found what degree the points opened with the mag timing box,
did you check to see if the rotor was pointing DIRECTLY at the scribed
mark on the mag boss?
- When was the last time the mag caps/distribution caps were replaced?
The condition of the contacts on both the rotor and cap can make a
difference.
- Have you tried swapping the mags from left to right to see if the 5%
mag drop follows the mag swap?
- Has anyone made any fuel flow adjustments on the carburetor?
- Are you certain you do not have any intake leaks particularly around
the intake gland nuts and their rubber seals which could cause lean
operation and higher CHT's?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Walker
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Last July just before OSH I got water in the ignition wires on my
regular 52. After various methods of drying out the wires, I ended up
fouling the champions, so I replaced them with the Chinese plugs. ran
well with good mag checks but I immediately noticed a little higher
cylinder head temps at various power settings. After a few months, I
began to experience mag checks in excess of 3 percent. mag checks
degraded to 5 or 6 percent drop on both mags but the engine ran smooth.
I changed out the ignition harness and plugs with the kit from Dennis,
checked timing, point gaps, and plug gaps. The engine starts easy, runs
smooth, and develops 100 percent RPM, but I still get a 5 percent mag
drop during a static run up whether before or after a flight, and
cylinder head temps are still 10 to 20 degrees higher than normal during
all phases of operation. Also compression checked over 70/80 on all
cylinders. I have not measured the valve clearances lately, I suppose I
could have an exhaust valve not opening completely. Any Ideas, anyone ?
Dennis?
Wild Bill
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Bill,
Just a couple of questions first -
-What did you use to set TDC when you checked/set the timing?
I watched the exhaust valve open and close during the exhaust
stroke to make sure I was on the compression stroke and used a
screwdriver to feel for TDC on the top of the piston.
-What did you set the timing to? The spec is 14-16 degrees BTDC as
measured at the propeller flange.
After marking "0" with a piece of saftey wire, I backed up the to
30 BTDC then pulled in the direction of rotation. Both lights came on
at the same time at 15 BTDC.
-When you found what degree the points opened with the mag timing box,
did you check to see if the rotor was pointing DIRECTLY at the scribed
mark on the mag boss?
Did not check this - I'll go back and do it.
- When was the last time the mag caps/distribution caps were replaced?
The condition of the contacts on both the rotor and cap can make a
difference.
I swapped a mag cap off my new plane on one of the mags and It did
not make any difference on either plane. Mag caps looked good anyway.
- Have you tried swapping the mags from left to right to see if the 5%
mag drop follows the mag swap?
No, both mags are getting equal drop. Except for watching the RPM
for each mag, I could not tell it there was anything wrong.
- Has anyone made any fuel flow adjustments on the carburetor?
No
- Are you certain you do not have any intake leaks particularly around
the intake gland nuts and their rubber seals which could cause lean
operation and higher CHT's?
Good Idea - I'm going to check these today along with the valve
clearances.
Dennis
Thanks, Dennis
Wild Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Walker
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Last July just before OSH I got water in the ignition wires on my
regular 52. After various methods of drying out the wires, I ended up
fouling the champions, so I replaced them with the Chinese plugs. ran
well with good mag checks but I immediately noticed a little higher
cylinder head temps at various power settings. After a few months, I
began to experience mag checks in excess of 3 percent. mag checks
degraded to 5 or 6 percent drop on both mags but the engine ran smooth.
I changed out the ignition harness and plugs with the kit from Dennis,
checked timing, point gaps, and plug gaps. The engine starts easy, runs
smooth, and develops 100 percent RPM, but I still get a 5 percent mag
drop during a static run up whether before or after a flight, and
cylinder head temps are still 10 to 20 degrees higher than normal during
all phases of operation. Also compression checked over 70/80 on all
cylinders. I have not measured the valve clearances lately, I suppose I
could have an exhaust valve not opening completely. Any Ideas, anyone ?
Dennis?
Wild Bill
Message 4
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Anthony, Start with the following sites for info and pics with Aussie and Kiwi registrations: www.lampa.com.au , www.thinkingskills.co.za , http://www.jetphotos.net/showphotos.php?offset=0&where=search|-2|-2|-2|-2|CJ-6|15|1|||||||-2|-2|-2|-2|||15|1||-2|-2||||all|2||||||-2|||1 . Good luck!
Anthony Hudacek <antdea2000@yahoo.com.au> wrote: I am new to this list and am
thinking of importing a yak from russia to Australia. If anybody else is interested
we could bring back a couple and cost share the freight etc. If interested
send me an email on antdea2000@yahoo.com.au. Has
anyone else imported aircraft into Australia?
Thanks, Ant.
---------------------------------
Hank Gibson
904-994-6005 Mobile
904-213-1760 Home
hkgibby@yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Bill
I found it far more accurate to find TDC by making a tool out of an old spark plug.
Hollow out the ceramic center, all of the ceramic, and force a steel rod
down the center so that it extends beyond the point were the piston would miss
it. You determine this distance with the same screw driver. Measure the distance
that the screw driver travels into the cylinder at the same angle as the plug
would travel when the piston is near TDC. Add about 0.5 inches to the distance.
Affix the rod to this distance in the plug by measuring from the flat contact
point. You should round the end of the rod so it doesn't nick the piston.
I used JB Weld to hold it in place. Be certain that when you rotate the plug
that the rod stays centered. Pull the piston back down by reversing the prop
direction, counter clockwise. Insert the new plug and finger tighten. Bring the
piston back up in contact with the plug. Slowly. Once this is established read
the degrees on the prop hub with a digital level. (They cost about $100 on
the internet and well worth it.) Find the angle on the opposite side of the piston
travel. Same technique, only with the piston traveling in the opposite direction.
You will have to remove the plug, bring the piston beyond TDC, replace
the plug, bring the piston back toward TDC until it touches the plug. Measure
this angle using the same place on the prop hub. Determine the difference and
divide it by 2. Add this to the original measurement for an accurate TDC. To
find the advanced angle that the mags need to be set at just add this to your
calculated TDC angle. Always set the piston in this position by moving the prop
from well before TDC to the determined angle, prop turning in normal rotation.
Clockwise as you face it.
It's more work but very accurate.
BTW, As long as you set the final prop angle by moving it clockwise, prop lash
will not be a factor. If you move it counter clockwise it will be a factor and
your final piston position will be wrong.
Good luck.
Jim B
>>> bwalker11@charter.net 04/28/06 8:18 AM >>>
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Bill,
Just a couple of questions first -
-What did you use to set TDC when you checked/set the timing?
I watched the exhaust valve open and close during the exhaust stroke to make
sure I was on the compression stroke and used a screwdriver to feel for TDC
on the top of the piston.
-What did you set the timing to? The spec is 14-16 degrees BTDC as measured
at the propeller flange.
After marking "0" with a piece of saftey wire, I backed up the to 30 BTDC
then pulled in the direction of rotation. Both lights came on at the same time
at 15 BTDC.
-When you found what degree the points opened with the mag timing box, did you
check to see if the rotor was pointing DIRECTLY at the scribed mark on the mag
boss?
Did not check this - I'll go back and do it.
- When was the last time the mag caps/distribution caps were replaced? The condition
of the contacts on both the rotor and cap can make a difference.
I swapped a mag cap off my new plane on one of the mags and It did not make
any difference on either plane. Mag caps looked good anyway.
- Have you tried swapping the mags from left to right to see if the 5% mag drop
follows the mag swap?
No, both mags are getting equal drop. Except for watching the RPM for each
mag, I could not tell it there was anything wrong.
- Has anyone made any fuel flow adjustments on the carburetor?
No
- Are you certain you do not have any intake leaks particularly around the intake
gland nuts and their rubber seals which could cause lean operation and higher
CHT's?
Good Idea - I'm going to check these today along with the valve clearances.
Dennis
Thanks, Dennis
Wild Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Walker
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Last July just before OSH I got water in the ignition wires on my regular 52.
After various methods of drying out the wires, I ended up fouling the champions,
so I replaced them with the Chinese plugs. ran well with good mag checks
but I immediately noticed a little higher cylinder head temps at various power
settings. After a few months, I began to experience mag checks in excess of
3 percent. mag checks degraded to 5 or 6 percent drop on both mags but the engine
ran smooth. I changed out the ignition harness and plugs with the kit from
Dennis, checked timing, point gaps, and plug gaps. The engine starts easy,
runs smooth, and develops 100 percent RPM, but I still get a 5 percent mag drop
during a static run up whether before or after a flight, and cylinder head
temps are still 10 to 20 degrees higher than normal during all phases of operation.
Also compression checked over 70/80 on all cylinders. I have not measured
the valve clearances lately, I suppose I could have an exhaust valve not
opening completely. Any Ideas, anyone ? Dennis?
Wild Bill
Message 6
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| Subject: | CJ Service Techs in USA |
Hello,
I am buying a CJ6 and am putting together a list of A&P's and Avionics techs
who people have had sucess with from around the lower 48 and Canada. Any and
all input with names and contact details would be appreciated. You never know
when and where you'll break.
Thanks,
Hank Gibson
Hank Gibson
904-994-6005 Mobile
904-213-1760 Home
hkgibby@yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Service Techs in USA |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
My FSDO rep told me to keep the manuals on a CD and place it in the plane. That
way were ever you break down you can have an A&P work on it. The only thing that
prohibits work is knowledge.
Jim B.
>>> hkgibby@yahoo.com 04/28/06 11:48 AM >>>
Hello,
I am buying a CJ6 and am putting together a list of A&P's and Avionics techs
who people have had sucess with from around the lower 48 and Canada. Any and
all input with names and contact details would be appreciated. You never know
when and where you'll break.
Thanks,
Hank Gibson
Hank Gibson
904-994-6005 Mobile
904-213-1760 Home
hkgibby@yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
The suggestions for finding TDC and setting timing accurately have already
been given and are very good obviously. What I believe is significant is
that both Mags have equal drop, and as they drop increased, they stayed
equal through-out the process. One thing I can say from direct observation
and that is, the more advanced the engine timing is, the less the mag drop,
and... a retarded engine runs hot. Just the opposite of what makes sense.
So... maybe it IS timing.
Valve Lash. There is just no question that valve lash drifts considerably
in one year. In other words, I strongly suspect you have a valve lash issue
simply by the statement that you have not adjusted them in awhile. What is
"awhile" ?? I run my engine very hard, and have gotten into the habit of
checking them every 6 months or so. I've also seen a dramatic change in
valve lash going from hot to cold. Opinions vary on how to set lash... most
people say: "Medium Warm". I'd like to hear what Dennis has to say about
that personally. I have measured lash when the engine is HOT HOT HOT... and
then have let it go stone cold and have measured it again. I was agog....
it is a HUGE difference. Since lash can impact generated power by a LOT...
I lean towards setting them HOT. Of course, it is then hard to set them all
the same! Setting them dead cold at least gets them all the same...
assuming the change with heat is linear on all cylinders. What do you have
to say about this Dennis, or anyone else for that matter?
Mark
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Bernier
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Bill
I found it far more accurate to find TDC by making a tool out of an old
spark plug. Hollow out the ceramic center, all of the ceramic, and force a
steel rod down the center so that it extends beyond the point were the
piston would miss it. You determine this distance with the same screw
driver. Measure the distance that the screw driver travels into the cylinder
at the same angle as the plug would travel when the piston is near TDC. Add
about 0.5 inches to the distance. Affix the rod to this distance in the plug
by measuring from the flat contact point. You should round the end of the
rod so it doesn't nick the piston. I used JB Weld to hold it in place. Be
certain that when you rotate the plug that the rod stays centered. Pull the
piston back down by reversing the prop direction, counter clockwise. Insert
the new plug and finger tighten. Bring the piston back up in contact with
the plug. Slowly. Once this is established read the degrees on the prop hub
with a digital level!
. (They cost about $100 on the internet and well worth it.) Find the angle
on the opposite side of the piston travel. Same technique, only with the
piston traveling in the opposite direction. You will have to remove the
plug, bring the piston beyond TDC, replace the plug, bring the piston back
toward TDC until it touches the plug. Measure this angle using the same
place on the prop hub. Determine the difference and divide it by 2. Add this
to the original measurement for an accurate TDC. To find the advanced angle
that the mags need to be set at just add this to your calculated TDC angle.
Always set the piston in this position by moving the prop from well before
TDC to the determined angle, prop turning in normal rotation. Clockwise as
you face it.
It's more work but very accurate.
BTW, As long as you set the final prop angle by moving it clockwise, prop
lash will not be a factor. If you move it counter clockwise it will be a
factor and your final piston position will be wrong.
Good luck.
Jim B
>>> bwalker11@charter.net 04/28/06 8:18 AM >>>
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Bill,
Just a couple of questions first -
-What did you use to set TDC when you checked/set the timing?
I watched the exhaust valve open and close during the exhaust stroke
to make sure I was on the compression stroke and used a screwdriver to feel
for TDC on the top of the piston.
-What did you set the timing to? The spec is 14-16 degrees BTDC as
measured at the propeller flange.
After marking "0" with a piece of saftey wire, I backed up the to 30
BTDC then pulled in the direction of rotation. Both lights came on at the
same time at 15 BTDC.
-When you found what degree the points opened with the mag timing box, did
you check to see if the rotor was pointing DIRECTLY at the scribed mark on
the mag boss?
Did not check this - I'll go back and do it.
- When was the last time the mag caps/distribution caps were replaced?
The condition of the contacts on both the rotor and cap can make a
difference.
I swapped a mag cap off my new plane on one of the mags and It did not
make any difference on either plane. Mag caps looked good anyway.
- Have you tried swapping the mags from left to right to see if the 5% mag
drop follows the mag swap?
No, both mags are getting equal drop. Except for watching the RPM for
each mag, I could not tell it there was anything wrong.
- Has anyone made any fuel flow adjustments on the carburetor?
No
- Are you certain you do not have any intake leaks particularly around the
intake gland nuts and their rubber seals which could cause lean operation
and higher CHT's?
Good Idea - I'm going to check these today along with the valve
clearances.
Dennis
Thanks, Dennis
Wild Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Walker
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Last July just before OSH I got water in the ignition wires on my
regular 52. After various methods of drying out the wires, I ended up
fouling the champions, so I replaced them with the Chinese plugs. ran well
with good mag checks but I immediately noticed a little higher cylinder head
temps at various power settings. After a few months, I began to experience
mag checks in excess of 3 percent. mag checks degraded to 5 or 6 percent
drop on both mags but the engine ran smooth. I changed out the ignition
harness and plugs with the kit from Dennis, checked timing, point gaps, and
plug gaps. The engine starts easy, runs smooth, and develops 100 percent
RPM, but I still get a 5 percent mag drop during a static run up whether
before or after a flight, and cylinder head temps are still 10 to 20 degrees
higher than normal during all phases of operation. Also compression checked
over 70/80 on all cylinders. I have not measured the valve clearances
lately, I suppose I could !
have an exhaust valve not opening completely. Any Ideas, anyone ? Dennis?
Wild Bill
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
>Bill
>I found it far more accurate to find TDC by making a tool out of an old spark
plug.
>
>
Arrggg! You guys need to do it right! Either use a 14MM American Time-Rite or
the calibrated Russian built dial indicator. Measure *exact* degrees directly
off the crank on #4 and set your mags using a "buzz box" synchronizer, with lights
of course. Set a 6" rule across the rotor when lining up the firing lead....or
use a laser line like I do.
A couple hundred bucks spent on the right tools will more than be compensated with
a smooth running engine. Or, find someone with the tools and knowledge to
do it for you.
Craig Payne
Obsessive-Complusive Tuner (OCT)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
There have been several NIB Time Rites on Ebay lately. I bought one @
285.00, great value as they are over $400.00 new. There is one or two of
them offered at this time.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:29 PM
To: yak-list
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Re: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
>Bill
>I found it far more accurate to find TDC by making a tool out of an old
spark plug.
>
>
Arrggg! You guys need to do it right! Either use a 14MM American
Time-Rite or the calibrated Russian built dial indicator. Measure *exact*
degrees directly off the crank on #4 and set your mags using a "buzz box"
synchronizer, with lights of course. Set a 6" rule across the rotor when
lining up the firing lead....or use a laser line like I do.
A couple hundred bucks spent on the right tools will more than be
compensated with a smooth running engine. Or, find someone with the tools
and knowledge to do it for you.
Craig Payne
Obsessive-Complusive Tuner (OCT)
Message 11
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| Subject: | mag drop and warm cyl |
Thanks, Mark, Jim, Craig, Doug, & Dennis. I'm going back to the drawing
board and check the timming more accurately as well as checking the
other things mentioned. Some good ideas for doing it right!
Wild Bill
Message 12
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| Subject: | excessive mag drop & warm cyl. |
Makes since to measure the valve lash warm to hot. The engine actually expands
with heat. If you measure the circumference of the engine around the baffle pads
or even over the valve covers when it is cold and then when it is hot, you
will find it has increased in size by 2 inches. If you do not believe me talk
to the Kimball's at Kimball's enterprises. They found that out doing custom cowlings
for there aircraft that used the M-14.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: Bitterlich GS11 Mark G
Sent: 4/28/2006 3:25:01 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
The suggestions for finding TDC and setting timing accurately have already been
given and are very good obviously. What I believe is significant is that both
Mags have equal drop, and as they drop increased, they stayed equal through-out
the process. One thing I can say from direct observation and that is, the
more advanced the engine timing is, the less the mag drop, and... a retarded
engine runs hot. Just the opposite of what makes sense. So... maybe it IS timing.
Valve Lash. There is just no question that valve lash drifts considerably in one
year. In other words, I strongly suspect you have a valve lash issue simply
by the statement that you have not adjusted them in awhile. What is "awhile"
?? I run my engine very hard, and have gotten into the habit of checking them
every 6 months or so. I've also seen a dramatic change in valve lash going
from hot to cold. Opinions vary on how to set lash... most people say: "Medium
Warm". I'd like to hear what Dennis has to say about that personally. I
have measured lash when the engine is HOT HOT HOT... and then have let it go stone
cold and have measured it again. I was agog.... it is a HUGE difference.
Since lash can impact generated power by a LOT... I lean towards setting them
HOT. Of course, it is then hard to set them all the same! Setting them dead
cold at least gets them all the same... assuming the change with heat is linear
on all cylinders. What do you have to say about
this Dennis, or anyone else for that matter?
Mark
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Bernier
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Bill
I found it far more accurate to find TDC by making a tool out of an old spark plug.
Hollow out the ceramic center, all of the ceramic, and force a steel rod
down the center so that it extends beyond the point were the piston would miss
it. You determine this distance with the same screw driver. Measure the distance
that the screw driver travels into the cylinder at the same angle as the plug
would travel when the piston is near TDC. Add about 0.5 inches to the distance.
Affix the rod to this distance in the plug by measuring from the flat contact
point. You should round the end of the rod so it doesn't nick the piston.
I used JB Weld to hold it in place. Be certain that when you rotate the plug
that the rod stays centered. Pull the piston back down by reversing the prop
direction, counter clockwise. Insert the new plug and finger tighten. Bring the
piston back up in contact with the plug. Slowly. Once this is established read
the degrees on the prop hub with a digital level!
. (They cost about $100 on the internet and well worth it.) Find the angle on
the opposite side of the piston travel. Same technique, only with the piston traveling
in the opposite direction. You will have to remove the plug, bring the
piston beyond TDC, replace the plug, bring the piston back toward TDC until
it touches the plug. Measure this angle using the same place on the prop hub.
Determine the difference and divide it by 2. Add this to the original measurement
for an accurate TDC. To find the advanced angle that the mags need to be set
at just add this to your calculated TDC angle. Always set the piston in this
position by moving the prop from well before TDC to the determined angle, prop
turning in normal rotation. Clockwise as you face it.
It's more work but very accurate.
BTW, As long as you set the final prop angle by moving it clockwise, prop lash
will not be a factor. If you move it counter clockwise it will be a factor and
your final piston position will be wrong.
Good luck.
Jim B
>>> bwalker11@charter.net 04/28/06 8:18 AM >>>
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Bill,
Just a couple of questions first -
-What did you use to set TDC when you checked/set the timing?
I watched the exhaust valve open and close during the exhaust stroke to make
sure I was on the compression stroke and used a screwdriver to feel for TDC
on the top of the piston.
-What did you set the timing to? The spec is 14-16 degrees BTDC as measured
at the propeller flange.
After marking "0" with a piece of saftey wire, I backed up the to 30 BTDC
then pulled in the direction of rotation. Both lights came on at the same time
at 15 BTDC.
-When you found what degree the points opened with the mag timing box, did you
check to see if the rotor was pointing DIRECTLY at the scribed mark on the mag
boss?
Did not check this - I'll go back and do it.
- When was the last time the mag caps/distribution caps were replaced? The condition
of the contacts on both the rotor and cap can make a difference.
I swapped a mag cap off my new plane on one of the mags and It did not make
any difference on either plane. Mag caps looked good anyway.
- Have you tried swapping the mags from left to right to see if the 5% mag drop
follows the mag swap?
No, both mags are getting equal drop. Except for watching the RPM for each
mag, I could not tell it there was anything wrong.
- Has anyone made any fuel flow adjustments on the carburetor?
No
- Are you certain you do not have any intake leaks particularly around the intake
gland nuts and their rubber seals which could cause lean operation and higher
CHT's?
Good Idea - I'm going to check these today along with the valve clearances.
Dennis
Thanks, Dennis
Wild Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Walker
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Yak-List: excessive mag drop & warm cyl.
Last July just before OSH I got water in the ignition wires on my regular 52.
After various methods of drying out the wires, I ended up fouling the champions,
so I replaced them with the Chinese plugs. ran well with good mag checks
but I immediately noticed a little higher cylinder head temps at various power
settings. After a few months, I began to experience mag checks in excess of
3 percent. mag checks degraded to 5 or 6 percent drop on both mags but the engine
ran smooth. I changed out the ignition harness and plugs with the kit from
Dennis, checked timing, point gaps, and plug gaps. The engine starts easy,
runs smooth, and develops 100 percent RPM, but I still get a 5 percent mag drop
during a static run up whether before or after a flight, and cylinder head
temps are still 10 to 20 degrees higher than normal during all phases of operation.
Also compression checked over 70/80 on all cylinders. I have not measured
the valve clearances lately, I suppose I could !
have an exhaust valve not opening completely. Any Ideas, anyone ? Dennis?
Wild Bill
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Service Techs in USA |
In a message dated 4/28/2006 9:50:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
hkgibby@yahoo.com writes:
I am buying a CJ6 and am putting together a list of A&P's and Avionics techs
who people have had success with from around the lower 48 and Canada.
In the San Francisco Bay Area, Jim Selby at Marina Airport (OAR) near
Monterey has extensive CJ experience. I think Jim has imported north of 20 CJs.
He
expertly maintains most of the CJs in our area.
Jim can be reached at 831-883-1266 and at jimscjs@mbay.net ...Blitz
Byron M. Fox
80 Milland Drive
Mill Valley, CA 94941
Home 415-380-0907
Cell 415-307-2405
Message 14
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| Subject: | Mig-15 paper airplane |
http://www.paperparadise.com/free/mig15.cfm
This sounds like fun and it free to download, I guess if you like it, you can
pay for other downloads. I just don't have that much free time, but hey....enjoy
Smash
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