Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:04 AM - Yak/CJ seatbelt attach points (Jay McIntyre)
2. 04:51 AM - Re: formation school (Pete M)
3. 06:00 AM - Wood/Fumigation (Richard Goode)
4. 06:57 AM - Re: Paint Shop Blues (Valkyre1)
5. 07:00 AM - Scottsboro, AL Fun Fly (4A6) May 27 & 28 (David McGirt)
6. 08:57 AM - Re: Paint Shop Blues (cgalley)
7. 09:24 AM - Re: Paint Shop Blues (Tim Gagnon)
8. 10:19 AM - Re: Paint Shop Blues (Scooter)
9. 11:29 AM - Re: Re: Paint Shop Blues (Ben Marsh)
10. 11:51 AM - Re: Re: Paint Shop Blues (Ben Marsh)
11. 12:33 PM - Re: Re: Paint Shop Blues (Jim Bernier)
12. 01:34 PM - Re: Re: Paint Shop Blues (Ben Marsh)
13. 03:15 PM - Re: Re: Paint Shop Blues (cgalley)
14. 06:38 PM - Re: Did anybody solve the CO-problem on a CJ yet? (ADE)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Yak/CJ seatbelt attach points |
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: formation school |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Pete M" <pete@yak52.fsnet.co.uk>
Its a pity the pictures taken approaching Biggin Hill Airport UK are a bit blurred.
The sight and sound of 14 Yaks passing by was quite something.
Who was taking the pictures from the front seat of my aircraft and who was flying
it from the rear? (assuming the front seat man was not flying formatin and
taking photos at the same time !!)
--------
Pete M
G-CBRL
83-3708
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32493#32493
Message 3
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We have sent approximately 80 aircraft by container over the last few years.=
=0A=
=0A=
The fumigation issue is becoming more and more important, although it has b=
een in place in Australia for many years.=0A=
=0A=
It is now required in the USA.=0A=
=0A=
All exporting countries are aware of the requirements, and almost all count=
ries have the ability to PROPERLY fumigate.=0A=
=0A=
In the past we got away with 'manufactured' letters of fumigation, but it n=
ow needs to be done by an authorised organisation entitled to fumigate and
issue certificates of fumigation.=20=20=0A=
=0A=
Most ports have this, although at an extra charge of up to US$1,000 althoug=
h typically less.=0A=
=0A=
Note that it can also be done on importation in most countries, but it need=
s to be taken aside, and obviously will cause a delay.=0A=
=0A=
Richard Goode=0A=
=0A=
Richard Goode Aerobatics=0A=
Rhodds Farm=0A=
Lyonshall=0A=
Herefordshire=0A=
HR5 3LW=0A=
United Kingdom=0A=
=0A=
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120=0A=
Mob: +44 (0) 7768 610389=0A=
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129=0A=
www.russianaeros.com=0A=
=0A=
--=0A=
dangerous content by the http://www.invictawiz.com=0A=
MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.=0A=
--=0A=
=0A=
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
Jim, Craig & all you painters,
Just some wisdom that I gleaned while looking for a good CJ and would
like to pass along. An excellent CJ mechanic took one apart for me and
showed me extensive corrosion caused by the failure to do multiple
washings after removing an old paint job with solvent. The metal inside,
including otherwise good anodized metal was turning to a white powder
and you could break end pieces of rivets off with a fingernail.
According to my mechanic, it takes about eight to ten good and thorough
wash downs to make certain that all of the solvent is gone, otherwise it
sits there and corrodes everything over time. He also takes much of the
aircraft skin apart and lays it flat to do this after stripping, but
that's up to you guys. Evidently, it's more than "just a pretty face".
Y'all take care and happy painting - Val
Message 5
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| Subject: | Scottsboro, AL Fun Fly (4A6) May 27 & 28 |
Scottsboro Municipal Airport-Word Field
Scottsboro, Alabama, USA
http://www.airnav.com/airport/4A6
RWY 3/21 - 5250 x 80 ft
Saturday - starts @ 9am
10 am - Mass formation flight
2pm - Mass formation flight
Night Cookout ( Steaks & Spirits )
Sunday - starts @ 9am
Breakfast at the field
10 am - Mass formation flight
2pm - Mass formation flight
Airport is paying for your gas and oil , and providing hotel rooms
If you are interested and will come, please contact Capt Mike at
(256-218-1340) to confirm you are coming and that you need a room.
The city is behind this fun weekend, and a good time will be had by all.
David McGirt
52TW
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
Valkyre.
I was going to let this one pass by but your mechanic is not quite
correct. That white powdery stuff is intergranular corrosion. It might
be from the stripper that is alkaline but most likely from moisture.
Many of the aluminum alloys have other metals like copper. The copper
and aluminum set up a galvanic reaction in the presence of water. The
stripper might take away the paint or oily protection but it is the
moisture that does the dirty work. Getting it clean and dry is the most
important thing. Getting the residual alkaline stripper cleaned off is
very important, but it is the moisture after the paint protection is
removed that does the dirty work.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: Valkyre1
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Paint Shop Blues
Jim, Craig & all you painters,
Just some wisdom that I gleaned while looking for a good CJ and would
like to pass along. An excellent CJ mechanic took one apart for me and
showed me extensive corrosion caused by the failure to do multiple
washings after removing an old paint job with solvent. The metal inside,
including otherwise good anodized metal was turning to a white powder
and you could break end pieces of rivets off with a fingernail.
According to my mechanic, it takes about eight to ten good and
thorough wash downs to make certain that all of the solvent is gone,
otherwise it sits there and corrodes everything over time. He also takes
much of the aircraft skin apart and lays it flat to do this after
stripping, but that's up to you guys. Evidently, it's more than "just a
pretty face".
Y'all take care and happy painting - Val
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim Gagnon" <NiftyYak50@msn.com>
My airplane was painted here in the states (in someones hangar) and the individual
simply took off some of the inspection panels(not all and some were NEVER
off the airplane since leaving the FSU) and sprayed! In fact, they painted the
elevator cable pulley to the point where it froze in place and damaged the elevator
cable itself.
Let the pro's do the painting.....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32570#32570
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
I'm in the "not a show plane" club and the "too poor to pay somebody" club also.
I'd love to hear from someone who did it on the cheap. What kind of paint
(brand and type) did you use on the metal and fabric parts of the aircraft and
how much. I've seen some nice do-it-yerself paint jobs on yaks and cjs (not
to mention all the homebuilts with homespun paint).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32582#32582
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scooter
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Paint Shop Blues
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
I'm in the "not a show plane" club and the "too poor to pay somebody" club
also. I'd love to hear from someone who did it on the cheap. What kind of
paint (brand and type) did you use on the metal and fabric parts of the
aircraft and how much. I've seen some nice do-it-yerself paint jobs on yaks
and cjs (not to mention all the homebuilts with homespun paint).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32582#32582
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
Sorry about the misfire...
As a DYI guy, I have a thought or two on the matter. First,
removing the Soviet paint is a lot of no fun. I used a great deal of
Aircraft Remover to bubble the old bad paint. I then scraped the bulk of
the bubbled stuff away with a plastic spatula. Using more and more Aircraft
Remover, I was reduced to wiping away the balance of the old, bad paint. If
you hit the striper/paint with water, even with high pressure, the mix
solidifies and does not come off. That be terrible BAD
I used some sort of DuPont self-etching epoxy primer that shot well.
I also used the poly Fiber covering system with Aerothane paint on the metal
and the fabric. I was not happy with the paint in general. The black was
crystallized, several batches of the stuff. The white on the fabric control
surfaces yellowed rather badly, even given the liberal use of the UV spray.
I recently repainted the fabric areas with white from Superflight. I was
very happy with the Superflight product.
Stripping and painting one of these things is a great lot of work,
but my results were very good. That is, I think my machine looks
sufficiently deluxe, even from five feet.
Good Luck,
Marsh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scooter
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Paint Shop Blues
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
I'm in the "not a show plane" club and the "too poor to pay somebody" club
also. I'd love to hear from someone who did it on the cheap. What kind of
paint (brand and type) did you use on the metal and fabric parts of the
aircraft and how much. I've seen some nice do-it-yerself paint jobs on yaks
and cjs (not to mention all the homebuilts with homespun paint).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32582#32582
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
In adding to Marsh's comments, after you have scraped off all that you can, put
on a final coat of Remover and rub the entire surface with Scotch Brite. It will
get the remaining paint off and prepare the surface. The red Scotch Brite
works great.
When choosing your paint, stick to a proven product that works together. One possibility
would be NAPA. They can walk you through the whole process. Talk to
local auto painters. They have made the mistakes already with various products.
The self etching primer is a must. After a water rinse, let it dry for a week.
You want all of the water out of the rivet areas and seams. Using someone's
system will give you a more predictable result.
There are pros and cons on painting it apart or together.
Before painting, go through a dry run with an empty gun to see the difficulty in
reaching certain areas. You have to spray perpendicular to the surface with
a set distance away. You may have to get creative.
If you use a 2 part paint, and I would suggest to, give yourself adequate time
for spray and cleanup when mixing in your hardener. Stick to the chart, more is
not better.
Painting isn't hard, prep is a bit-h. Do it once.
Jim
>>> ben@designselect.net 05/03/06 1:48 PM >>>
Sorry about the misfire...
As a DYI guy, I have a thought or two on the matter. First,
removing the Soviet paint is a lot of no fun. I used a great deal of
Aircraft Remover to bubble the old bad paint. I then scraped the bulk of
the bubbled stuff away with a plastic spatula. Using more and more Aircraft
Remover, I was reduced to wiping away the balance of the old, bad paint. If
you hit the striper/paint with water, even with high pressure, the mix
solidifies and does not come off. That be terrible BAD
I used some sort of DuPont self-etching epoxy primer that shot well.
I also used the poly Fiber covering system with Aerothane paint on the metal
and the fabric. I was not happy with the paint in general. The black was
crystallized, several batches of the stuff. The white on the fabric control
surfaces yellowed rather badly, even given the liberal use of the UV spray.
I recently repainted the fabric areas with white from Superflight. I was
very happy with the Superflight product.
Stripping and painting one of these things is a great lot of work,
but my results were very good. That is, I think my machine looks
sufficiently deluxe, even from five feet.
Good Luck,
Marsh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scooter
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Paint Shop Blues
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
I'm in the "not a show plane" club and the "too poor to pay somebody" club
also. I'd love to hear from someone who did it on the cheap. What kind of
paint (brand and type) did you use on the metal and fabric parts of the
aircraft and how much. I've seen some nice do-it-yerself paint jobs on yaks
and cjs (not to mention all the homebuilts with homespun paint).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32582#32582
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ben Marsh" <ben@designselect.net>
Ahh yes, Scotchbright Red. I came to love, then loathe the stuff.
Marsh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Bernier
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 12:31 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Paint Shop Blues
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
In adding to Marsh's comments, after you have scraped off all that you can,
put on a final coat of Remover and rub the entire surface with Scotch Brite.
It will get the remaining paint off and prepare the surface. The red Scotch
Brite works great.
When choosing your paint, stick to a proven product that works together. One
possibility would be NAPA. They can walk you through the whole process. Talk
to local auto painters. They have made the mistakes already with various
products. The self etching primer is a must. After a water rinse, let it dry
for a week. You want all of the water out of the rivet areas and seams.
Using someone's system will give you a more predictable result.
There are pros and cons on painting it apart or together.
Before painting, go through a dry run with an empty gun to see the
difficulty in reaching certain areas. You have to spray perpendicular to the
surface with a set distance away. You may have to get creative.
If you use a 2 part paint, and I would suggest to, give yourself adequate
time for spray and cleanup when mixing in your hardener. Stick to the chart,
more is not better.
Painting isn't hard, prep is a bit-h. Do it once.
Jim
>>> ben@designselect.net 05/03/06 1:48 PM >>>
Sorry about the misfire...
As a DYI guy, I have a thought or two on the matter. First,
removing the Soviet paint is a lot of no fun. I used a great deal of
Aircraft Remover to bubble the old bad paint. I then scraped the bulk of
the bubbled stuff away with a plastic spatula. Using more and more Aircraft
Remover, I was reduced to wiping away the balance of the old, bad paint. If
you hit the striper/paint with water, even with high pressure, the mix
solidifies and does not come off. That be terrible BAD
I used some sort of DuPont self-etching epoxy primer that shot well.
I also used the poly Fiber covering system with Aerothane paint on the metal
and the fabric. I was not happy with the paint in general. The black was
crystallized, several batches of the stuff. The white on the fabric control
surfaces yellowed rather badly, even given the liberal use of the UV spray.
I recently repainted the fabric areas with white from Superflight. I was
very happy with the Superflight product.
Stripping and painting one of these things is a great lot of work,
but my results were very good. That is, I think my machine looks
sufficiently deluxe, even from five feet.
Good Luck,
Marsh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scooter
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Paint Shop Blues
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
I'm in the "not a show plane" club and the "too poor to pay somebody" club
also. I'd love to hear from someone who did it on the cheap. What kind of
paint (brand and type) did you use on the metal and fabric parts of the
aircraft and how much. I've seen some nice do-it-yerself paint jobs on yaks
and cjs (not to mention all the homebuilts with homespun paint).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32582#32582
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Shop Blues |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
If you use two part get a remote air rig so you don't have to look at your
airplane from the funeral home window.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Paint Shop Blues
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
>
> In adding to Marsh's comments, after you have scraped off all that you
> can, put on a final coat of Remover and rub the entire surface with Scotch
> Brite. It will get the remaining paint off and prepare the surface. The
> red Scotch Brite works great.
> When choosing your paint, stick to a proven product that works together.
> One possibility would be NAPA. They can walk you through the whole
> process. Talk to local auto painters. They have made the mistakes already
> with various products. The self etching primer is a must. After a water
> rinse, let it dry for a week. You want all of the water out of the rivet
> areas and seams. Using someone's system will give you a more predictable
> result.
> There are pros and cons on painting it apart or together.
> Before painting, go through a dry run with an empty gun to see the
> difficulty in reaching certain areas. You have to spray perpendicular to
> the surface with a set distance away. You may have to get creative.
> If you use a 2 part paint, and I would suggest to, give yourself adequate
> time for spray and cleanup when mixing in your hardener. Stick to the
> chart, more is not better.
> Painting isn't hard, prep is a bit-h. Do it once.
> Jim
>
>>>> ben@designselect.net 05/03/06 1:48 PM >>>
> Sorry about the misfire...
>
> As a DYI guy, I have a thought or two on the matter. First,
> removing the Soviet paint is a lot of no fun. I used a great deal of
> Aircraft Remover to bubble the old bad paint. I then scraped the bulk of
> the bubbled stuff away with a plastic spatula. Using more and more
> Aircraft
> Remover, I was reduced to wiping away the balance of the old, bad paint.
> If
> you hit the striper/paint with water, even with high pressure, the mix
> solidifies and does not come off. That be terrible BAD
>
> I used some sort of DuPont self-etching epoxy primer that shot well.
> I also used the poly Fiber covering system with Aerothane paint on the
> metal
> and the fabric. I was not happy with the paint in general. The black was
> crystallized, several batches of the stuff. The white on the fabric
> control
> surfaces yellowed rather badly, even given the liberal use of the UV
> spray.
> I recently repainted the fabric areas with white from Superflight. I was
> very happy with the Superflight product.
>
> Stripping and painting one of these things is a great lot of work,
> but my results were very good. That is, I think my machine looks
> sufficiently deluxe, even from five feet.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Marsh
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scooter
> Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 10:18 AM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Paint Shop Blues
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
>
> I'm in the "not a show plane" club and the "too poor to pay somebody" club
> also. I'd love to hear from someone who did it on the cheap. What kind
> of
> paint (brand and type) did you use on the metal and fabric parts of the
> aircraft and how much. I've seen some nice do-it-yerself paint jobs on
> yaks
> and cjs (not to mention all the homebuilts with homespun paint).
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32582#32582
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Did anybody solve the CO-problem on a CJ yet? |
--> Yak-List message posted by: ADE <coolade@cox.net>
Our 52 was getting lots of smoke in the cockpit any time we turned the
smoke on, then several Yakkers discussed the co problem, sooo--we
purchased a professional quality co meter, tied it around our necks and
test flew the Yak--hardly off the ground when it pegged and said vacate
the premises ( unit built for home use). Next we put shop air in the
exhaust stack and bubble checked all exhaust flanges and smoke nozzle
flanges. Smoke nozzles were the worst culprit plus two badly leaking
flanges. After leak correction and several more test flights, the only
time we could get co readings above .05 was taxing with the canopy
open. Hope this helps>
On May 2, 2006, at 9:46 PM, tamara_b@telus.net wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: tamara_b@telus.net
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> last week I did circuits for 4 days
> in a row, my CO-detector went
> off the most of the time and I was
> sick like a dog.
> I had my exhaust stacks extended
> but apparantley it made no difference.
> All the holes in the wheel wells and
> flap well are sealed. I have the feeling
> the fumes enter the aircraft mainly
> through the canopy.
>
> Did anybody got rid of that CO-problem
> by now - if yes - every constructive input
> is very much appreciated.
>
> Cheers
>
> Elmar (C-FTKL)
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
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