Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:48 AM - Re: Re: M-14P Generator Brushes (Rob Kent)
2. 06:04 AM - Formation MidAir (Jeff Linebaugh)
3. 06:26 AM - Re: Formation MidAir (bpx2horn@aol.com)
4. 06:43 AM - Re: Formation MidAir (Roger Kemp)
5. 06:54 AM - Re: Low Level flight (Valkyre1)
6. 08:12 AM - Re: Low Level flight (Roger Kemp)
7. 10:37 AM - Re: Formation MidAir (Ben Marsh)
8. 11:14 AM - Timing help needed! (Larry Pine)
9. 01:50 PM - Re: Timing help needed! (Frank Haertlein)
10. 02:21 PM - Home Again! (ByronMFox@aol.com)
11. 02:28 PM - Re: Timing help needed! (A. Dennis Savarese)
12. 04:27 PM - brakes (Steve Wieland)
13. 05:03 PM - Re: brakes (A. Dennis Savarese)
14. 05:28 PM - Re: brakes (Craig Payne)
15. 06:24 PM - Re: Home Again! (Roger Kemp)
16. 07:22 PM - Solenoid (Jay Land)
17. 07:51 PM - Re: Solenoid (David McGirt)
18. 08:54 PM - Re: CJ6 in Miami (Hank Gibson)
19. 11:19 PM - Re: Timing help needed! (Walter Lannon)
20. 11:43 PM - Re: Timing help needed! (Walter Lannon)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: M-14P Generator Brushes |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Rob Kent" <rkent@wlacrussianeng.co.uk>
Mike,
I've got generator brushes for the GSR-3000M (brush kits containing 8 new
brushes). If interested, drop me an email or give me a call.
Regards
Rob Kent
Stores Manager
WLAC - Russian Engineering
www.wlacrussianeng.co.uk
Tel: +44 1628 829 165
Fax: +44 1628 828 961
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 11:30 PM
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>
>
> Thanks Mark. With an engine hoist and 3 strong men I will get that
> megawatt thing off the engine, and send a brush sample to Doug.
>
> --------
> Mike Bell
> Yak 52
> Elk Grove, CA
> yakflyr@comcastdotnet
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=41319#41319
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Formation MidAir |
Off the RV-List:
In a message dated 6/18/2006 5:20:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rsaltsman@hotmail.com writes:
With deep sadness I report that Chris Good, fellow RVator and member of
the Blackhawk Formation Squadron was killed today in a mid-air
collision over Peru, Illinois. The second pilot, Bill "Pappy' Turner
was able to land his plane safely and without apparent injury even
though his RV was severely damaged. Details are sketchy and
unconfirmed. I shall post further details as they become available.
The entire RV community extends our deepest condolences to Chris'
family and teammates over this tragic accident.
Salty
You'all be careful out there!
Jeff
Jeff Linebaugh
jefflinebaugh@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jefflinebaugh/
Memphis, TN
Attachment: http://www.matronics.com/enclosures/28a56077bff46cceb2f25c12a1d57a9e0c3eac54.gif
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Formation MidAir |
--> Yak-List message posted by: bpx2horn@aol.com
My team performed at the show that they were arriving at. My team lead wittnessed
the event, truly sad and sobering. The show did go on as planned but with delay,
do to the on site FAA monitor being busy with post accident investigation.
The lead AC pilot that was struck by the #2 did a wonderful job of piloting
his sticken plane to a safe landing. His left spar was severly damage, the left
aileron was useless and AC was also trailing smoke. The three surviving members
of the team are based out of my airport.
Paul Hornick
www.teamaerostar.com
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 08:01:33 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
Off the RV-List:
In a message dated 6/18/2006 5:20:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rsaltsman@hotmail.com writes:
With deep sadness I report that Chris Good, fellow RVator and member of
the Blackhawk Formation Squadron was killed today in a mid-air
collision over Peru, Illinois. The second pilot, Bill "Pappy' Turner
was able to land his plane safely and without apparent injury even
though his RV was severely damaged. Details are sketchy and
unconfirmed. I shall post further details as they become available.
The entire RV community extends our deepest condolences to Chris'
family and teammates over this tragic accident.
Salty
You'all be careful out there!
Jeff
Jeff Linebaugh
jefflinebaugh@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jefflinebaugh/
Memphis, TN
________________________________________________________________________
Message 4
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| Subject: | Formation MidAir |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
It is a sad day for all when an aviator falls. My condolences.
I fear now more scrutiny from the FAA will befall us all as this is the
second midair between an RV'er in little over a year.
Be careful out there on these weekend sorties.
Doc Kemp
> [Original Message]
> From: Jeff Linebaugh <jefflinebaugh@earthlink.net>
> To: yak-list@matronics. com <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 6/19/2006 8:15:24 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Formation MidAir
>
> Off the RV-List:
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Low Level flight |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Valkyre1" <Valkyre1@comcast.net>
AWESOME! Thanks Rich, that made my morning.
- V
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Low Level flight |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
It'll make theirs too...when they drag a wingtip. Got to admit though...it
makes Hi to low conversions kinda hard! Thank goodness for look down shoot
down radar with shoot 'em in the lips capablility now!
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Valkyre1 <Valkyre1@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 6/19/2006 9:16:05 AM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Low Level flight
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Valkyre1" <Valkyre1@comcast.net>
>
> AWESOME! Thanks Rich, that made my morning.
>
> - V
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Formation MidAir |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Ben Marsh" <ben@designselect.net>
Greetings,
I feel the need to chime in on the topic to formation flying.
First, it's a lot of fun. Second, it is extremely dangerous. While both
these points are obvious as the day is bright, we seem to forget this from
time to time. Reminders hit rather hard.
I've lost a few friends in mid-air collisions. I have been subject
to watching friends fall to their death in broken airplanes. I have also
had friends come in contact with one another while flying, without terminal
effect. I think of this every time I fly formation, before strapping in.
The most dangerous thing we do in aviation is formation flying, be
it simply bombing around the countryside, air racing or formation airbatics.
Even given the danger, we often pretend it is not as dangerous as it really
is to life and limb.
Don't be fooled by the awesome sight you behold in formation flight,
it can end too quickly. Always be aware of this.
Regards,
Marsh
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:42 AM
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
It is a sad day for all when an aviator falls. My condolences.
I fear now more scrutiny from the FAA will befall us all as this is the
second midair between an RV'er in little over a year.
Be careful out there on these weekend sorties.
Doc Kemp
> [Original Message]
> From: Jeff Linebaugh <jefflinebaugh@earthlink.net>
> To: yak-list@matronics. com <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 6/19/2006 8:15:24 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: Formation MidAir
>
> Off the RV-List:
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Timing help needed! |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Larry Pine <threein60@yahoo.com>
Good morning,
Still working on the CJ but in need of a little advice...I'm trying to reinstall
the mags and time them on my 285 engine. I looked thru the archieves and
have all the books but still a little confused. I reinstalled mags, Found #4 TDC,
Installed flower pot and adjusted to TDC. Then moved the prop about 40 degrees
BTDC, then forward to 25 degrees BTDC. Installed the mags to this angle.
Mag was internally lined as per manual with white electrode aimed at line on mag
case. Mag Coupling was at the correct orientation to install mag. After I installed
mags, they were close but couldn't find tune the opening of points with
buzz box. Turning the mag didn't seem to make any difference with point opening.
There is about 4 degree split between mags and the first mag goes off at
about 28 degrees BTDC. I keep to reading something about prop flange markings
and you need to subtract something from something?????? I need to find away
of fine tuning and I think I'm missing something
with the reduction gears. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
CJ6 8181C
Larry
Larry Pine
---------------------------------
Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Timing help needed! |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Haertlein" <yak52driver@earthlink.net>
Larry;
You have to adjust the point gap before the timing. Set the point gap while
the points are riding on top of a lobe and then go back and do your timing.
Frank
Message 10
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--> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
Back home and in the traces. The RPA Online Store is now open. Don't be
embarrassed at this summer's airshows by those oil stained and faded RPA hats,
polos and T-shirts. Time to replace them. Your airplane looks sharp. So should
you.
Thanks, Blitz
Byron M Fox
The RPA Store
80 Milland Drive
Mill Valley, CA 94941
415-307-2405 Cell Days
415-380-0907 Home Eves
http://www.flyredstar.org/StoreCSVS/default.aspx
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Timing help needed! |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
There is also a fine adjustment plate that is adjusted via an eccentric
screw. This is the key to properly setting and synchronizing the mag
timing, after of course you set the point gap equally on both mags.
There are two sets of hex screws under the rotor. Loosening the smaller set
allows you to adjust the point gap via the points eccentric. Loosening the
two larger hex screws enables you to adjust the opening position of the
points in relation to a cam lobe by rotating the small eccentric screw on
the opposite side of the cam where the points are located. Using a mag
timing synchronizer, you can fine tune and synchronize the mags to open
simultaneously by rotating this small eccentric screw.
Don't try setting the exact timing and synchronizing the mags, other than
rough timing, by loosening the mag hold down nuts. It can be done, but
you'll spend 10 times the amount of time than by doing it as suggested
above. Get the timing close, then use the fine adjustment procedure to
synchronize the mags.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 3:47 PM
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Frank Haertlein"
> <yak52driver@earthlink.net>
>
> Larry;
> You have to adjust the point gap before the timing. Set the point gap
> while
> the points are riding on top of a lobe and then go back and do your
> timing.
> Frank
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Steve Wieland" <wheelstoo@msn.com>
I'm in need for a set of brakes and liners for a 1996 Yak-52. George Coy said on
back order for a year. Any one know where I can get them?? Also I understand
there are metal brakes that can be substituted...... Can anyone help there???
thanks
Wheels N42SW
Message 13
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Contact Doug Sapp. He usually has them in stock. rvfltd@televar.com.
(509) 826-4610
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 4:14 PM
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Steve Wieland" <wheelstoo@msn.com>
>
> I'm in need for a set of brakes and liners for a 1996 Yak-52. George Coy
> said on back order for a year. Any one know where I can get them?? Also I
> understand there are metal brakes that can be substituted...... Can anyone
> help there???
> thanks
> Wheels N42SW
>
>
>
Message 14
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Craig Payne" <cpayne@joimail.com>
Steve,
By "brakes and liners", I assume you are refering to drums and pads (pucks). It's
not a closely guarded secret but brake components are interchangeable between
the CJ and Yak-52. Try giving Doug Sapp a call. I have found that the Yak drum
"seems" a bit heavier than the CJ drum but pucks, springs, and expander tubes
interchanged on my airplane.
Craig Payne
cpayne@joimail.com
Message 15
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Blitz,
Welcome back! But did you not hear? The thread bare oil sweat stained RPA
hats are the in thing at fly-ins now!
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: <ByronMFox@aol.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 6/19/2006 4:28:10 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Home Again!
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: ByronMFox@aol.com
>
> Back home and in the traces. The RPA Online Store is now open. Don't be
> embarrassed at this summer's airshows by those oil stained and faded RPA
hats,
> polos and T-shirts. Time to replace them. Your airplane looks sharp. So
should
> you.
>
> Thanks, Blitz
>
> Byron M Fox
> The RPA Store
> 80 Milland Drive
> Mill Valley, CA 94941
> 415-307-2405 Cell Days
> 415-380-0907 Home Eves
> http://www.flyredstar.org/StoreCSVS/default.aspx
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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--> Yak-List message posted by: Jay Land <jland@popeandland.com>
Anyone know a manufacturer and part number for a good 24-28 volt solenoid?
I need one for a smoke system.
Thanks, Jay
Message 17
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "David McGirt" <david@mcgirt.net>
Jay, you might talk to Larry King @ LZU - (404) 550-1383 he is very
knowledgeable about smoke systems in the M14
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Land
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 10:25 PM
--> Yak-List message posted by: Jay Land <jland@popeandland.com>
Anyone know a manufacturer and part number for a good 24-28 volt solenoid?
I need one for a smoke system.
Thanks, Jay
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: CJ6 in Miami |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Hank Gibson <hkgibby@yahoo.com>
Sam,
Thanks for the invite to TMB last Sat., but I ended up driving home to Jax Friday
PM. Maybe next time. I am looking at Barry Hancock's a/c and Greg Medford's
in Phoenix as possibilities to get me in a CJ. Any experience with either
of them? Also, a private sale out of Illinois (1976, N82792). My buddy, and
fellow Gulfstream Aero guy, just put $$ down on a CJ for sale in Brooklyn, MN,
so we should have two more in the SE by Nov!!
Hope to meet you at a fly-in or at the museum real soon.
Fly safe and all the best,
Hank Gibson
Samuel Sax <cd001633@mindspring.com> wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Hank,
Come on down to TMB this Saturday morning I am working on my CJ and will be
happy to help any way I can.
I am based at the Wings-Over-Miami Museum at Tamiami Airport you can check our web site at: www.Wingsovermiami.com.
See you there,
Sam Sax
Miami, FL
305.215.5599 cell
---------------------------------
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hank Gibson
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 12:13 AM
Any CJ drivers in Miami/FLL area? I have some time, am shopping for one and
want to learn more first hand. I am working out of OPF until Monday.
Hank Gibson
Hank Gibson
904-994-6005 Mobile
904-213-1760 Home
hkgibby@yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Timing help needed! |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
Larry;
You definitely need some help.
There are two distinct steps in setting magneto timing;
1. Internal timing of the mag ("e" gap setting) and
2. Installation and adjustment of firing angle on the engine.
Internal timing can be done with the mag on or off the engine. If installed
find top dead center on the compression stroke of #4 piston (BUT - before
doing any of this remove ALL front spark plugs). You can do this with a
small wooden dowel or similar to show piston position once you have
established with your thumb that you are on the compression stroke.
finger is pointing at the timing index mark on the mag housing. The mag is
now in position to check and adjust the internal timing. (off the engine you
would simply turn the mag by hand in the arrow direction).
Either disconnect the primary lead at each mag or turn the mag switches on
both. Mags are now live - the primary reason for removing all front plugs.
Clean the points with a lint free cloth and small brush using acetone or
MEK, etc. No petroleum solvents. Do not manually open points more than
1/16". If there is any evidence of arcing the points may need dressing. If
so do NOT use a point file (or any file). If necessary let me know and I
will go through the process with you.
By turning the prop set the point rubbing block on the center of the cam
lobe with the distributor finger pointing to the timing index. Check the
point clearance. It should be 0.3 mm (.012"). The tolerance is 0.25 to
0.35mm (.010" to .014"). If outside those limits adjust to exactly 3mm.
Carefully move the tab locks, loosen the retaining screw and set the
clearance with the adjusting screw. Tighten the retaining screw and tab lock
both.
Attach your timing light (you should have an aircraft unit with two lights
to facilitate synchronization in the final step) to the point spring post
and an engine ground.
Rotate the prop backwards about 40 degs. and then forward slowly ( this is
necessary to take up gear backlash every time you check point opening) until
the light is on (points just opened).
Do this a number of times until you are sure of the initial opening point.
With a straightedge (6" rule works fine) check alignment of the leading
distributor finger to the timing index. Acceptable tolerance is +/- 1/16"
but with the gap at 3 mm it should be right on.
If necessary the distributor rotor may be adjusted by loosening the 3 screws
and rotating to align the finger.
The mag is now internally timed and ready for mating to the engine. Under no
circumstances is it acceptable to change the point gap as a means of "fine
tuning" for timing to the engine.
That is step 1 but I am out of time so will try to finish tomorrow night.
Walt
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Larry Pine <threein60@yahoo.com>
>
> Good morning,
> Still working on the CJ but in need of a little advice...I'm trying to
> reinstall the mags and time them on my 285 engine. I looked thru the
> archieves and have all the books but still a little confused. I
> reinstalled mags, Found #4 TDC, Installed flower pot and adjusted to TDC.
> Then moved the prop about 40 degrees BTDC, then forward to 25 degrees
> BTDC. Installed the mags to this angle. Mag was internally lined as per
> manual with white electrode aimed at line on mag case. Mag Coupling was at
> the correct orientation to install mag. After I installed mags, they were
> close but couldn't find tune the opening of points with buzz box. Turning
> the mag didn't seem to make any difference with point opening. There is
> about 4 degree split between mags and the first mag goes off at about 28
> degrees BTDC. I keep to reading something about prop flange markings and
> you need to subtract something from something?????? I need to find away
> of fine tuning and I think I'm missing something
> with the reduction gears. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks
> CJ6 8181C
> Larry
>
>
> Larry Pine
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Timing help needed! |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
Must learn to read before hitting send. Somehow deleted most of the first
sentence of para. 4. Should read ------
"From the TDC position rotate the prop backward about 40 degs and then
forward until the distributor
LEADING -----------------------------------------"
Walt
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 11:16 PM
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
>
> Larry;
>
> You definitely need some help.
> There are two distinct steps in setting magneto timing;
>
> 1. Internal timing of the mag ("e" gap setting) and
> 2. Installation and adjustment of firing angle on the engine.
>
> Internal timing can be done with the mag on or off the engine. If
> installed find top dead center on the compression stroke of #4 piston
> (BUT - before doing any of this remove ALL front spark plugs). You can do
> this with a small wooden dowel or similar to show piston position once you
> have established with your thumb that you are on the compression stroke.
>
> finger is pointing at the timing index mark on the mag housing. The mag is
> now in position to check and adjust the internal timing. (off the engine
> you would simply turn the mag by hand in the arrow direction).
>
> Either disconnect the primary lead at each mag or turn the mag switches on
> both. Mags are now live - the primary reason for removing all front
> plugs.
>
> Clean the points with a lint free cloth and small brush using acetone or
> MEK, etc. No petroleum solvents. Do not manually open points more than
> 1/16". If there is any evidence of arcing the points may need dressing. If
> so do NOT use a point file (or any file). If necessary let me know and I
> will go through the process with you.
>
> By turning the prop set the point rubbing block on the center of the cam
> lobe with the distributor finger pointing to the timing index. Check the
> point clearance. It should be 0.3 mm (.012"). The tolerance is 0.25 to
> 0.35mm (.010" to .014"). If outside those limits adjust to exactly 3mm.
> Carefully move the tab locks, loosen the retaining screw and set the
> clearance with the adjusting screw. Tighten the retaining screw and tab
> lock both.
>
> Attach your timing light (you should have an aircraft unit with two lights
> to facilitate synchronization in the final step) to the point spring post
> and an engine ground.
> Rotate the prop backwards about 40 degs. and then forward slowly ( this is
> necessary to take up gear backlash every time you check point opening)
> until the light is on (points just opened).
> Do this a number of times until you are sure of the initial opening point.
> With a straightedge (6" rule works fine) check alignment of the leading
> distributor finger to the timing index. Acceptable tolerance is +/- 1/16"
> but with the gap at 3 mm it should be right on.
>
> If necessary the distributor rotor may be adjusted by loosening the 3
> screws and rotating to align the finger.
>
> The mag is now internally timed and ready for mating to the engine. Under
> no circumstances is it acceptable to change the point gap as a means of
> "fine tuning" for timing to the engine.
>
> That is step 1 but I am out of time so will try to finish tomorrow night.
>
> Walt
>
>
>> --> Yak-List message posted by: Larry Pine <threein60@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Good morning,
>> Still working on the CJ but in need of a little advice...I'm trying to
>> reinstall the mags and time them on my 285 engine. I looked thru the
>> archieves and have all the books but still a little confused. I
>> reinstalled mags, Found #4 TDC, Installed flower pot and adjusted to TDC.
>> Then moved the prop about 40 degrees BTDC, then forward to 25 degrees
>> BTDC. Installed the mags to this angle. Mag was internally lined as per
>> manual with white electrode aimed at line on mag case. Mag Coupling was
>> at the correct orientation to install mag. After I installed mags, they
>> were close but couldn't find tune the opening of points with buzz box.
>> Turning the mag didn't seem to make any difference with point opening.
>> There is about 4 degree split between mags and the first mag goes off at
>> about 28 degrees BTDC. I keep to reading something about prop flange
>> markings and you need to subtract something from something?????? I need
>> to find away of fine tuning and I think I'm missing something
>> with the reduction gears. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>> Thanks
>> CJ6 8181C
>> Larry
>>
>>
>> Larry Pine
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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