Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:23 AM - Re: Yak 55M Air Start (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
2. 04:27 AM - Re: Oil Temperature Guage on Yak 55M (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
3. 05:40 AM - Re: Yak 55M Air Start (Scott Poehlmann)
4. 05:59 AM - Re: Yak 55M Air Start (Rob Kent)
5. 07:13 AM - Re: Yak 55M Air Start (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
6. 07:34 AM - The current Russian military trainer (Richard Goode)
7. 07:44 AM - Log book (cjpilot710@aol.com)
8. 08:43 AM - Re: The current Russian military trainer (Buzzard Aviation)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Yak 55M Air Start |
Doug, I do not believe that the YAK-55 uses an electrically actuated air
start solenoid, such as the 50 and 52 does. Instead I believe it uses
the same manually activated valve as do the Sukhoi's.
If this is indeed the case, Scott... your most likely cause is corrosion
in the air start valve itself OR...and this is a real sneaky
problem..... someone in the past has replaced the rubber pad in the air
start valve with the wrong one! This problem will drive you NUTS and
you have all the symtoms.
You really do not have to remove the whole thing to work on it....
although I have never worked on a YAK-55, so I am unsure of the mounting
arrangement. If you can get to the back of the thing easily, you can
just pull it apart from the rear and leave the main assy. in place.
When you take the rear big nut off, you may have to reach into the hole
with a tool to get the shuttle to slide out if there is corrosion.
Anyway, pulling it that way allows you from having to remove the
electrical contacts that activate your voltage booster assy. for the
MAGS, which some people refer to as the shower of sparks... which it
really isn't. If that is impossible, then simply pull the whole thing
out of there and take it apart. Inside you will find a spring... which
often breaks from corrosion..... a shuttle valve with ridges on the
outside.... clean it and the barrel of the valve carefully.... and on
the end of the shuttle you will find that one end is open... hollow, and
the other end has a little metal tit sticking out right from the middle.
The little metal tit should have a black rubber seal surrounding it.
The seal should look like a hard rubber gasket.. not an "O" ring, but
instead almost like a thick hard rubber washer. This piece MUST ... and
I repeat MUST have a small hole right in the middle of it that allows
the metal tit from the shuttle valve itself to stick through it. If you
happen to have a hard rubber gasket... round but with no hole in the
middle of it... you have found your problem. If it does have a hole in
the middle of it... then check for broken weak spring, and/or corrosion
in the valve body itself preventing the shuttle from moving freely.
Here is how this happens... There is an over-pressure relief valve on
most Russian aircraft that works ALMOST exactly like the start valve on
your YAK-55. The rubber bushing/seal in it is perfectly round with no
hole in the middle and is on the end of a shuttle valve ALMOST but not
exactly identical again to the start valve. There is a kit to replace
the bushing on the over-pressure relief valve. Many people have
mistakenly made the assumption that this same bushing/rubber seal can
also replace the one in the start valve. Actually it can.... as long as
you carefully put a hole directly in the middle of it so that the metal
tit that sticks out from the end of the start valve shuttle can poke
through.... otherwise you have symtoms very close to what you are
experiencing. It's a long shot... but someone might have done this to
your airplane.
I have never seen a spider distributor that worked cold, but won't work
hot. Those things are devices made by the devil though.... so I guess
it is possible! WARNING! Do NOT pull that thing out of your aircraft
until you are DARN DARN SURE that it is bad. Expect a few DAYS worth
of effort to get it back in and working again.
A quick check here would be to simply take the air line off right at the
start lever that leads to the engine. Push the start lever. Got plenty
of air? No? That pretty much answers your question.
Best of Luck,
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of doug sapp
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:16
Scott,
Have you done this test yet? Next time the problem occurs:
Disconnect the hose which runs FROM the start solenoid TO the start
spider on the engine, then hit the button and confirm that the start
solenoid is functioning and you DO have air at the start spider. If you
do have air at the start spider then timing in the start spider has
somehow slipped or changed enough to not allow the air to pass and for
the engine to start, if you don't have air at the start spider you most
likely have an intermittent start solenoid, which is not all that
uncommon. To prove this check to make sure you are in fact delivering
air pressure TO the start solenoid. My guess it that you will find that
your start solenoid is intermittent.
If the problem turns out to be timing I am sure that Dennis can help, if
the problem is in the start solenoid I have them for the CJ6 and I do
think they just might be the same.
Hope this helps.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Poehlmann
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 7:58 PM
Hi All,
Have an interesting and troublesome problem. For the last several weeks
I have had trouble with the starting the Yak. The scenario is always
like this: go out, check the air (650-750 psi), turn the prop through
(15 blades), prime, pull the prop through (15 blades), get in, prime,
start without any trouble. Go fly acro, mostly working on Advanced-level
figures, rollers, inverted spins, half-snaps, with the occaisional run
through an Intermediate Known or Free, land, taxi to the pump, fill gas,
check the air (again 650-750 psi), get in, prime, hit the starter and
nothing happens. I mean NOTHING, no hiss of air, no prop moving, and
certainly no start. Rarely I can get the prop to just barely move (less
than 1/3 blade), but otherwise nothing. Pulling the prop through in this
condition demonstrates that it isn't hydro-locked.
My troubleshooting has run like this: 1) There is air in the system. 2)
The prop is not hydro-locked. 3) The primer works. 4) The air start
valve is clean and in good condition (took it out, cleaned and inspected
it last week...).
Now I have run out of ideas. Could the air distributor be at fault? If
so how, and how do I check it, and how do I sort it out. Ideas? Voodoo
spells? Secret Russian code words? I'm up for anything that will work
here...
Thanks,
Scott
Message 2
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| Subject: | Oil Temperature Guage on Yak 55M |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14
64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Just wanted to concur with everyone else on this one. Everytime I have seen this
problem it has been the sending unit, or a bad electrical contact on the plug
AT the sending unit (as in an open as already described). Also, as has also
been mentioned... you can simply swap it out with the carb temp probe to check
it... both are identical. Not adding anything new... just double confirming
that what has already been mentioned is also exactly what I have found in the
past as well on more than one aircraft.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Royden Heays
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 13:33
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Royden Heays" <heaysr@telus.net>
After many hundereds of hours of well behaved indications the oil
temperature guage on my Yak 55M has begun to flicker right up to full
deflection. This occurred for the first time yesterday on start up when the
oil was known to be cool. The guage is the standard Russian guage that goes
with the M14P on all the Yaks I have seen.
Any pointers?
Royden Heays
C-GRED
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Yak 55M Air Start |
Hi Mark,
Your description of the valve is perfect. That is indeed how the air
start on the -55M works. The valve is located on the far lower left of
the panel, with a bulkhead below it, and is accessible only through the
hole where the floating panel attaches (and around a slightly more than
90 degree corner...), thus must be removed to service in any meaningful
way (unless one is a three foot tall, double-jointed elf with extremely
long fingers...<VBG>).
I've had this valve out, and apart and can report that the rubbers are
correct, with the appropriate holes, and in good condition. As is in the
inside of the valve and the spring--very minimal corrosion which came
off with just a little bit of cleaning.I am guessing at this point that
the problem is hose/line related. The valve connects to a hard line
which runs forward to the firewall, and thence to a Russian hose from
the firewall to the inlet on the distributor. I will try removing the
connector at the firewall and see if I get air there next time I have
the problem (I tried to recreate the problem yesterday, but of course,
the engine starts perfectly now...). I am hoping at this point that the
problem is hose related. I REALLY don't want to futz with the
distributor...
Thanks,
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, 05 July, 2006 05:21
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak 55M Air Start
Doug, I do not believe that the YAK-55 uses an electrically actuated
air start solenoid, such as the 50 and 52 does. Instead I believe it
uses the same manually activated valve as do the Sukhoi's.
If this is indeed the case, Scott... your most likely cause is
corrosion in the air start valve itself OR...and this is a real sneaky
problem..... someone in the past has replaced the rubber pad in the air
start valve with the wrong one! This problem will drive you NUTS and
you have all the symtoms.
You really do not have to remove the whole thing to work on it....
although I have never worked on a YAK-55, so I am unsure of the mounting
arrangement. If you can get to the back of the thing easily, you can
just pull it apart from the rear and leave the main assy. in place.
When you take the rear big nut off, you may have to reach into the hole
with a tool to get the shuttle to slide out if there is corrosion.
Anyway, pulling it that way allows you from having to remove the
electrical contacts that activate your voltage booster assy. for the
MAGS, which some people refer to as the shower of sparks... which it
really isn't. If that is impossible, then simply pull the whole thing
out of there and take it apart. Inside you will find a spring... which
often breaks from corrosion..... a shuttle valve with ridges on the
outside.... clean it and the barrel of the valve carefully.... and on
the end of the shuttle you will find that one end is open... hollow, and
the other end has a little metal tit sticking out right from the middle.
The little metal tit should have a black rubber seal surrounding it.
The seal should look like a hard rubber gasket.. not an "O" ring, but
instead almost like a thick hard rubber washer. This piece MUST ... and
I repeat MUST have a small hole right in the middle of it that allows
the metal tit from the shuttle valve itself to stick through it. If you
happen to have a hard rubber gasket... round but with no hole in the
middle of it... you have found your problem. If it does have a hole in
the middle of it... then check for broken weak spring, and/or corrosion
in the valve body itself preventing the shuttle from moving freely.
Here is how this happens... There is an over-pressure relief valve
on most Russian aircraft that works ALMOST exactly like the start valve
on your YAK-55. The rubber bushing/seal in it is perfectly round with
no hole in the middle and is on the end of a shuttle valve ALMOST but
not exactly identical again to the start valve. There is a kit to
replace the bushing on the over-pressure relief valve. Many people have
mistakenly made the assumption that this same bushing/rubber seal can
also replace the one in the start valve. Actually it can.... as long as
you carefully put a hole directly in the middle of it so that the metal
tit that sticks out from the end of the start valve shuttle can poke
through.... otherwise you have symtoms very close to what you are
experiencing. It's a long shot... but someone might have done this to
your airplane.
I have never seen a spider distributor that worked cold, but won't
work hot. Those things are devices made by the devil though.... so I
guess it is possible! WARNING! Do NOT pull that thing out of your
aircraft until you are DARN DARN SURE that it is bad. Expect a few
DAYS worth of effort to get it back in and working again.
A quick check here would be to simply take the air line off right at
the start lever that leads to the engine. Push the start lever. Got
plenty of air? No? That pretty much answers your question.
Best of Luck,
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of doug sapp
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:16
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak 55M Air Start
Scott,
Have you done this test yet? Next time the problem occurs:
Disconnect the hose which runs FROM the start solenoid TO the start
spider on the engine, then hit the button and confirm that the start
solenoid is functioning and you DO have air at the start spider. If you
do have air at the start spider then timing in the start spider has
somehow slipped or changed enough to not allow the air to pass and for
the engine to start, if you don't have air at the start spider you most
likely have an intermittent start solenoid, which is not all that
uncommon. To prove this check to make sure you are in fact delivering
air pressure TO the start solenoid. My guess it that you will find that
your start solenoid is intermittent.
If the problem turns out to be timing I am sure that Dennis can
help, if the problem is in the start solenoid I have them for the CJ6
and I do think they just might be the same.
Hope this helps.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Poehlmann
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 7:58 PM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Yak-List: Yak 55M Air Start
Hi All,
Have an interesting and troublesome problem. For the last several
weeks I have had trouble with the starting the Yak. The scenario is
always like this: go out, check the air (650-750 psi), turn the prop
through (15 blades), prime, pull the prop through (15 blades), get in,
prime, start without any trouble. Go fly acro, mostly working on
Advanced-level figures, rollers, inverted spins, half-snaps, with the
occaisional run through an Intermediate Known or Free, land, taxi to the
pump, fill gas, check the air (again 650-750 psi), get in, prime, hit
the starter and nothing happens. I mean NOTHING, no hiss of air, no prop
moving, and certainly no start. Rarely I can get the prop to just barely
move (less than 1/3 blade), but otherwise nothing. Pulling the prop
through in this condition demonstrates that it isn't hydro-locked.
My troubleshooting has run like this: 1) There is air in the
system. 2) The prop is not hydro-locked. 3) The primer works. 4) The air
start valve is clean and in good condition (took it out, cleaned and
inspected it last week...).
Now I have run out of ideas. Could the air distributor be at
fault? If so how, and how do I check it, and how do I sort it out.
Ideas? Voodoo spells? Secret Russian code words? I'm up for anything
that will work here...
Thanks,
Scott
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Yak 55M Air Start |
Mark is correct. The Yak-55 does not use an electric start solenoid.
The diagrams below should help with Marks description.
https://systemlinux.co.uk/images/555500-00.jpg Yak-55 air system
diagram (without air compressor)
https://systemlinux.co.uk/images/555500-100.jpg Yak-55 push to
start air valve
https://systemlinux.co.uk/images/42.5300.8.071.000.jpg Sukhoi push
to start air valve
Regards
Rob Kent
Stores Manager
WLAC - Russian Engineering
www.wlacrussianeng.co.uk
Tel: +44 1628 829 165
Fax: +44 1628 828 961
----- Original Message -----
From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 12:21 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak 55M Air Start
Doug, I do not believe that the YAK-55 uses an electrically actuated
air start solenoid, such as the 50 and 52 does. Instead I believe it
uses the same manually activated valve as do the Sukhoi's.
If this is indeed the case, Scott... your most likely cause is
corrosion in the air start valve itself OR...and this is a real sneaky
problem..... someone in the past has replaced the rubber pad in the air
start valve with the wrong one! This problem will drive you NUTS and
you have all the symtoms.
You really do not have to remove the whole thing to work on it....
although I have never worked on a YAK-55, so I am unsure of the mounting
arrangement. If you can get to the back of the thing easily, you can
just pull it apart from the rear and leave the main assy. in place.
When you take the rear big nut off, you may have to reach into the hole
with a tool to get the shuttle to slide out if there is corrosion.
Anyway, pulling it that way allows you from having to remove the
electrical contacts that activate your voltage booster assy. for the
MAGS, which some people refer to as the shower of sparks... which it
really isn't. If that is impossible, then simply pull the whole thing
out of there and take it apart. Inside you will find a spring... which
often breaks from corrosion..... a shuttle valve with ridges on the
outside.... clean it and the barrel of the valve carefully.... and on
the end of the shuttle you will find that one end is open... hollow, and
the other end has a little metal tit sticking out right from the middle.
The little metal tit should have a black rubber seal surrounding it.
The seal should look like a hard rubber gasket.. not an "O" ring, but
instead almost like a thick hard rubber washer. This piece MUST ... and
I repeat MUST have a small hole right in the middle of it that allows
the metal tit from the shuttle valve itself to stick through it. If you
happen to have a hard rubber gasket... round but with no hole in the
middle of it... you have found your problem. If it does have a hole in
the middle of it... then check for broken weak spring, and/or corrosion
in the valve body itself preventing the shuttle from moving freely.
Here is how this happens... There is an over-pressure relief valve
on most Russian aircraft that works ALMOST exactly like the start valve
on your YAK-55. The rubber bushing/seal in it is perfectly round with
no hole in the middle and is on the end of a shuttle valve ALMOST but
not exactly identical again to the start valve. There is a kit to
replace the bushing on the over-pressure relief valve. Many people have
mistakenly made the assumption that this same bushing/rubber seal can
also replace the one in the start valve. Actually it can.... as long as
you carefully put a hole directly in the middle of it so that the metal
tit that sticks out from the end of the start valve shuttle can poke
through.... otherwise you have symtoms very close to what you are
experiencing. It's a long shot... but someone might have done this to
your airplane.
I have never seen a spider distributor that worked cold, but won't
work hot. Those things are devices made by the devil though.... so I
guess it is possible! WARNING! Do NOT pull that thing out of your
aircraft until you are DARN DARN SURE that it is bad. Expect a few
DAYS worth of effort to get it back in and working again.
A quick check here would be to simply take the air line off right at
the start lever that leads to the engine. Push the start lever. Got
plenty of air? No? That pretty much answers your question.
Best of Luck,
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of doug sapp
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:16
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak 55M Air Start
Scott,
Have you done this test yet? Next time the problem occurs:
Disconnect the hose which runs FROM the start solenoid TO the start
spider on the engine, then hit the button and confirm that the start
solenoid is functioning and you DO have air at the start spider. If you
do have air at the start spider then timing in the start spider has
somehow slipped or changed enough to not allow the air to pass and for
the engine to start, if you don't have air at the start spider you most
likely have an intermittent start solenoid, which is not all that
uncommon. To prove this check to make sure you are in fact delivering
air pressure TO the start solenoid. My guess it that you will find that
your start solenoid is intermittent.
If the problem turns out to be timing I am sure that Dennis can
help, if the problem is in the start solenoid I have them for the CJ6
and I do think they just might be the same.
Hope this helps.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Poehlmann
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 7:58 PM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Yak-List: Yak 55M Air Start
Hi All,
Have an interesting and troublesome problem. For the last several
weeks I have had trouble with the starting the Yak. The scenario is
always like this: go out, check the air (650-750 psi), turn the prop
through (15 blades), prime, pull the prop through (15 blades), get in,
prime, start without any trouble. Go fly acro, mostly working on
Advanced-level figures, rollers, inverted spins, half-snaps, with the
occaisional run through an Intermediate Known or Free, land, taxi to the
pump, fill gas, check the air (again 650-750 psi), get in, prime, hit
the starter and nothing happens. I mean NOTHING, no hiss of air, no prop
moving, and certainly no start. Rarely I can get the prop to just barely
move (less than 1/3 blade), but otherwise nothing. Pulling the prop
through in this condition demonstrates that it isn't hydro-locked.
My troubleshooting has run like this: 1) There is air in the
system. 2) The prop is not hydro-locked. 3) The primer works. 4) The air
start valve is clean and in good condition (took it out, cleaned and
inspected it last week...).
Now I have run out of ideas. Could the air distributor be at
fault? If so how, and how do I check it, and how do I sort it out.
Ideas? Voodoo spells? Secret Russian code words? I'm up for anything
that will work here...
Thanks,
Scott
Message 5
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| Subject: | Yak 55M Air Start |
Scott, make sure you download Rob Kent's pictures, they make great
reference material! Yes, I agree... it is much more likely that some
foreign object is floating around in the hose, or you have a hose with a
"flap" at one end someplace. Taking the lines off and checking for flow
will indeed narrow this down.
Best of luck,
Mark
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Poehlmann
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 8:39
Hi Mark,
Your description of the valve is perfect. That is indeed how the air
start on the -55M works. The valve is located on the far lower left of
the panel, with a bulkhead below it, and is accessible only through the
hole where the floating panel attaches (and around a slightly more than
90 degree corner...), thus must be removed to service in any meaningful
way (unless one is a three foot tall, double-jointed elf with extremely
long fingers...<VBG>).
I've had this valve out, and apart and can report that the rubbers are
correct, with the appropriate holes, and in good condition. As is in the
inside of the valve and the spring--very minimal corrosion which came
off with just a little bit of cleaning.I am guessing at this point that
the problem is hose/line related. The valve connects to a hard line
which runs forward to the firewall, and thence to a Russian hose from
the firewall to the inlet on the distributor. I will try removing the
connector at the firewall and see if I get air there next time I have
the problem (I tried to recreate the problem yesterday, but of course,
the engine starts perfectly now...). I am hoping at this point that the
problem is hose related. I REALLY don't want to futz with the
distributor...
Thanks,
Scott
----- Original Message -----
<mailto:mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Wednesday, 05 July, 2006 05:21
Doug, I do not believe that the YAK-55 uses an electrically actuated air
start solenoid, such as the 50 and 52 does. Instead I believe it uses
the same manually activated valve as do the Sukhoi's.
If this is indeed the case, Scott... your most likely cause is corrosion
in the air start valve itself OR...and this is a real sneaky
problem..... someone in the past has replaced the rubber pad in the air
start valve with the wrong one! This problem will drive you NUTS and
you have all the symtoms.
You really do not have to remove the whole thing to work on it....
although I have never worked on a YAK-55, so I am unsure of the mounting
arrangement. If you can get to the back of the thing easily, you can
just pull it apart from the rear and leave the main assy. in place.
When you take the rear big nut off, you may have to reach into the hole
with a tool to get the shuttle to slide out if there is corrosion.
Anyway, pulling it that way allows you from having to remove the
electrical contacts that activate your voltage booster assy. for the
MAGS, which some people refer to as the shower of sparks... which it
really isn't. If that is impossible, then simply pull the whole thing
out of there and take it apart. Inside you will find a spring... which
often breaks from corrosion..... a shuttle valve with ridges on the
outside.... clean it and the barrel of the valve carefully.... and on
the end of the shuttle you will find that one end is open... hollow, and
the other end has a little metal tit sticking out right from the middle.
The little metal tit should have a black rubber seal surrounding it.
The seal should look like a hard rubber gasket.. not an "O" ring, but
instead almost like a thick hard rubber washer. This piece MUST ... and
I repeat MUST have a small hole right in the middle of it that allows
the metal tit from the shuttle valve itself to stick through it. If you
happen to have a hard rubber gasket... round but with no hole in the
middle of it... you have found your problem. If it does have a hole in
the middle of it... then check for broken weak spring, and/or corrosion
in the valve body itself preventing the shuttle from moving freely.
Here is how this happens... There is an over-pressure relief valve on
most Russian aircraft that works ALMOST exactly like the start valve on
your YAK-55. The rubber bushing/seal in it is perfectly round with no
hole in the middle and is on the end of a shuttle valve ALMOST but not
exactly identical again to the start valve. There is a kit to replace
the bushing on the over-pressure relief valve. Many people have
mistakenly made the assumption that this same bushing/rubber seal can
also replace the one in the start valve. Actually it can.... as long as
you carefully put a hole directly in the middle of it so that the metal
tit that sticks out from the end of the start valve shuttle can poke
through.... otherwise you have symtoms very close to what you are
experiencing. It's a long shot... but someone might have done this to
your airplane.
I have never seen a spider distributor that worked cold, but won't work
hot. Those things are devices made by the devil though.... so I guess
it is possible! WARNING! Do NOT pull that thing out of your aircraft
until you are DARN DARN SURE that it is bad. Expect a few DAYS worth
of effort to get it back in and working again.
A quick check here would be to simply take the air line off right at the
start lever that leads to the engine. Push the start lever. Got plenty
of air? No? That pretty much answers your question.
Best of Luck,
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of doug sapp
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:16
Scott,
Have you done this test yet? Next time the problem occurs:
Disconnect the hose which runs FROM the start solenoid TO the start
spider on the engine, then hit the button and confirm that the start
solenoid is functioning and you DO have air at the start spider. If you
do have air at the start spider then timing in the start spider has
somehow slipped or changed enough to not allow the air to pass and for
the engine to start, if you don't have air at the start spider you most
likely have an intermittent start solenoid, which is not all that
uncommon. To prove this check to make sure you are in fact delivering
air pressure TO the start solenoid. My guess it that you will find that
your start solenoid is intermittent.
If the problem turns out to be timing I am sure that Dennis can help, if
the problem is in the start solenoid I have them for the CJ6 and I do
think they just might be the same.
Hope this helps.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Poehlmann
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 7:58 PM
Hi All,
Have an interesting and troublesome problem. For the last several weeks
I have had trouble with the starting the Yak. The scenario is always
like this: go out, check the air (650-750 psi), turn the prop through
(15 blades), prime, pull the prop through (15 blades), get in, prime,
start without any trouble. Go fly acro, mostly working on Advanced-level
figures, rollers, inverted spins, half-snaps, with the occaisional run
through an Intermediate Known or Free, land, taxi to the pump, fill gas,
check the air (again 650-750 psi), get in, prime, hit the starter and
nothing happens. I mean NOTHING, no hiss of air, no prop moving, and
certainly no start. Rarely I can get the prop to just barely move (less
than 1/3 blade), but otherwise nothing. Pulling the prop through in this
condition demonstrates that it isn't hydro-locked.
My troubleshooting has run like this: 1) There is air in the system. 2)
The prop is not hydro-locked. 3) The primer works. 4) The air start
valve is clean and in good condition (took it out, cleaned and inspected
it last week...).
Now I have run out of ideas. Could the air distributor be at fault? If
so how, and how do I check it, and how do I sort it out. Ideas? Voodoo
spells? Secret Russian code words? I'm up for anything that will work
here...
Thanks,
Scott
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| Subject: | The current Russian military trainer |
All primary training in Russia is done on the L-39.=0A
=0A
However the Air Force has ordered, and indeed they are in production, a bat
ch of 52M (long-range fuel/bubble canopy/400-hp/3-blade prop/pilot extracti
on systems), but none yet delivered.=0A
=0A
Richard Goode =0A
=0A
Richard Goode Aerobatics=0A
Rhodds Farm=0A
Lyonshall=0A
Herefordshire=0A
HR5 3LW=0A
United Kingdom=0A
=0A
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120=0A
Mob: +44 (0) 7768 610389=0A
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129=0A
www.russianaeros.com=0A
=0A
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Troops,
I keep my log book up to date with personal notes about the flight. Who
knows, maybe someday my great great grand kids might find them interesting reading
while waiting in line for their turn in a molecular transporter to a far off
galaxy.
One they will read:
2006
July 3 - CJ-6A - N21710 -
OLU to OTM = 2.25 hours
SEL = 2.25 hours
Formation = 2.25 hours
PIC = 2.25 hours
Remarks
#4, CAVOK sct rain showers & CBs. Tolon, WildBill, Lefty. 29gals 7,500'
* 500.12 hours of logged formation time.
The best guys in the world to kick over a bench mark with. Thanks guys.
Pappy
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| Subject: | Re: The current Russian military trainer |
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