Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:47 AM - Re: oil leaks (Daniel Fortin)
2. 03:56 AM - W Fittings (Craig Payne)
3. 05:33 AM - Re: W Fittings (Roger Kemp)
4. 05:53 AM - Re: oil leaks (Dr Andre Katz)
5. 05:57 AM - Fw: The Dog Story (Roger Kemp)
6. 07:29 AM - Re: ARS photos (Barry Hancock)
7. 09:03 AM - Re: oil leaks (Jim Shanks)
8. 09:36 AM - Canopy Glass (Jerry Painter)
9. 11:44 AM - Re: oil leaks (Desmor944@aol.com)
10. 01:29 PM - Re: Price Reduction on 1985 Yak 50 (Bill Walker)
11. 02:35 PM - Re: Re: ARS photos (Roger Kemp)
12. 03:28 PM - Re: oil leaks (A. Dennis Savarese)
Message 1
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "Daniel Fortin" <fougapilot@hotmail.com>
I have been using Aeroshell in my M14p since new. Whenever the oil is
changed, I put W100 (NOT W100+, not good on M14p) as summer approaches, I
start adding W120 and when winter returns (I live in Canada) switch to W80.
I had no problem with me engine.
D
>From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@cablerocket.com>
>To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Yak-List: oil leaks
>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 07:48:32 -0700
>
>Andre;
>
>The primary problem is the oil you are using. Aeroshell W15W50 is totally
>unsuitable for radial engines. Surely you are not using this in the R1340,
>if you were you would have exactly the same problem.
>If you want a multigrade Phillips X/C 25W60 is the only one - for any
>radial. I would not recommend their 20W50 - Not near as bad as W15W50 but
>still not adequate.
>
>If not multigrade I would recommend Aeroshell W120 (summer) and W100
>(winter - with preheat)
>
>Walt
>
>----- Original Message -----
> From: Dr Andre Katz
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 5:52 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: oil leaks
>
>
> question for the forum? my m14 has about 300 hrs
> when in use I can keep the tank up, uses about a liter per hour of
>flight time
> when it sits (which it does between aerobatic competitions since I have
>little time for practice) in 2 weeks the entire 10 -12 quarts disappear
>(well. it goes to the floor I have the messiest hangar at the airport very
>nasty lady...) I think this is excesive oil leak I use aeroshell 15 50
>synthetic. Since I have 800 hrs in my 1340 T6 that has been in the same
>hangar for 20 years and well behaved (it leaks a bit) I have something to
>compare and does not come close to it. the oil problem has become so that I
>am using more oil than gas. When i go to the hangar I have to refill the
>tank so often that I am cutting my flying time.
> the engine performs well compression is good, most of the oil comes out
>of the intakes and the kimball drain system that I have,
> any suggestions besides overhauling it? or running the oil back into the
>tank?
> thanks
> andres
Message 2
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>
> Craig,
> What are W fittings?
> Doc
>
"W" fittings (pronounced 'Double You' down where I live) are the Yak "Westernized"
fittings that come with the Yak-52W and -52TW. They screw in to the engine
Metric but fit up to SAE aircraft hose fittings. I bought mine from GESOCO, they
made converting the CJ to the M-14P simpler from me since Doug didn't stock
metric hose when I first did my conversion.
Craig Payne
cpayne@joimail.com
Message 3
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Craig,
Thanks.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 8/5/2006 6:08:16 AM
>
> Craig,
> What are W fittings?
> Doc
>
"W" fittings (pronounced 'Double You' down where I live) are the Yak "Westernized"
fittings that come with the Yak-52W and -52TW. They screw in to the engine
Metric but fit up to SAE aircraft hose fittings. I bought mine from GESOCO, they
made converting the CJ to the M-14P simpler from me since Doug didn't stock
metric hose when I first did my conversion.
Craig Payne
cpayne@joimail.com
Message 4
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hello roger et al:
thanks to all the responders, I shall switch to 120w (indeed the T-6 uses it
exclusively), will check the oil check valve and install the darn kimball oil
shut off with the switch so I do not run the engine dry. What will one do without
the forum? thanks a bunch
andre
Message 5
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| Subject: | Fw: The Dog Story |
A little levity for the Saturday! Has not got a damned thing to do with flying
but everybody needs a good belly laugh every now and then!
Doc
Roger "Doc" Kemp
viperdoc@mindspring.com
Aint no sound like a Radial
I was in the check out line at Wal-Mart buying a large bag of Purina for my dog.
A woman behind me asked if I had a dog. On impulse, I told her that no, I was starting
The Purina Diet again, although I probably shouldn't because I'd ended
up in the hospital last time, but that I'd lost 50 pounds before I awakened in
an intensive care ward with tubes coming out of most of my orifices and IVs
in both arms.
I told her that it was essentially a perfect diet and that the way that it works
is to load your pants pockets with Purina nuggets and simply eat one or two
every time you feel hungry & that the food is nutritionally complete so I was
going to try it again.
I have to mention here that practically everyone in the line was by now enthralled
with my story, particularly a guy who was behind her.
Horrified, she asked if I'd ended up in the hospital in that condition because
I had been poisoned. I told her no; it was because I'd been sitting in the street
licking my balls when a car hit me.
I thought one guy was going to have a heart attack as he staggered out the door
laughing loudly.
Message 6
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On Aug 4, 2006, at 11:58 PM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
> Read between the lines, boys. All I'm saying is 20 bucks a picture is
> excessive. I can get 36 exposures processed for less than that.
> Frank
To argue with you or even to talk sense is fruitless, Frank. It is
apparent, however, that you do not take the time to read/understand
the costs involved for Brandon. For a guy as smart as you, your
logic here is surprising. However, your logic does allow you to
arrive at the incorrect conclusion with confidence...even if 50
people tell you you're off base. You clearly don't know what printing
high quality pictures on your home computer costs, forget about
packaging and shipping. I think you just like the attention that
comes with being a prick...and for whatever reason, we give it to
you....
Let me just add the Brandon is no only a "really good guy" - he's a
*great* guy. Someone who comes to two events (as his own expense)
and volunteers his time and tactical experience for the betterment
and enjoyment of the group and asks for nothing in return has a
tremendous value to the community. We were "roommates" at ARS and
all I can say is that the community needs more guys like Brandon.
Brandon, thank you for your tireless efforts and "value added"
service of not only taking the pictures but making them available to
those who want them....next time, ask me for an ARS email list so you
don't have to deal with the Franks of the world...life's too short.
Cheers,
Barry
Event Director
All Red Star
ARS VI - May 2-6, 2007
Message 7
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Andres,
Sounds like the Oil Pressure Reducing Valve. Although I have a CJ
with the Chinese motor, I believe the part is the same. I changed mine
out and solved the problem of excessive oil leaks while the airplane is
"sitting." Check out the reply to my question back in September.
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=33279592?KEY
S=excessive_oil?LISTNAME=Yak?HITNUMBER=5?SERIAL=08522525652?SHOWB
UTTONS=YES
Jim Shanks
shankeroid@comcast.net
Message 8
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Gents (and you, too, Frank--just kidding),
Instead of using rubber to seal the glass to the frame get some zinc
chromate "putty tape." Doug? Rubber will bunch up in the frame and dist
ort
it. Use screws, not rivets, to attach and nice big holes like Doug sez--
don
t put any stress on the glass or it will crack. Carefully "de-burring" t
he
holes to provide nice smooth edges will help, too. The glass needs to be
able move in the frame, so leave your cheater bar in its box when you
tighten those screws. I've seen lots of CJ's arriving here with glass
installed in China using US (!) rivets (AD rivets no less) with a big
hammer and a rock for a bucking bar--apparently done by the same guys who
use tin cans and steel rivets (or are those roofing nails?) for sheet met
al
repairs--they also use old bicycle inner tubes for sealing the glass.
Usually the glass arrives cracked, but if not, will be soon. The factory
screws have a slight dome on the head and are countersunk. They're
available here somewhere but I can't remember where just now--try the usu
al
sources. Doug? Hardware store (er, True Value Airmotive) "sticky back
fuzzy door weather seal strips" (sorry for the technical terminology) wor
ks
great for sealing between the front slider and center fixed panel. A
sticky back foam weather seal strip" at the rear of the rear slider will
seal things up nicely there. No secrets here, I'm sure. Clean those tra
cks
real good and lube the bearings (not the tracks) with a dry spray lube (L
PS
or similar) at annual time so the tracks won't fill up with oily dirt aga
in
and you'll have a really nice, smooth opening canopy.
Great photos, Brandon. And the new Red Alert is terrific, too. Super jo
b,
guys! Wow! What a great cover photo!
BTW, Dennis et al, I take it all back! Been flying a couple of airplanes
with your lead/spark plug setup--works great and those buck plugs make th
e
$10 special Autolite (via AirPower) deal look silly. Have you figured ou
t a
way to adapt an electronic box like Sevier or some of the others use? Se
e
the latest Aerobatics magazine for an interesting article.
Also, while I was towing gliders last Sunday, somebody arrived here at KA
WO
(Arlington, WA, Muni to any pedestrians in the crowd) in a very pretty re
d
CJ with "NOTAYAK" on the tail and, speaking of canopies, two (count 'em!)
,
two, tinted Malcolm hoods! Looks great! As I was walking over to introd
uce
myself and welcome you and eyeball your airplane, you hopped in your van
and
drove away. Sorry I missed you! Saw you fly away (love that sound!) so
I
guess I missed my chance. Did I notice electric aileron and rudder trim?
Jerry Painter
Wild Blue Aviation
425-876-0865
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0cs5r/index.html but changing soon--stand by
for news!
Message 9
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In a message dated 8/4/2006 9:27:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dsavarese@elmore.rr.com writes:
> Remove the oil shut off valve from the oil pump; check the spring and make
> sure it is not cracked or bent; resurface the valve; inspect the seat;
> reinstall. The other alternative is to install an oil shut off valve like the
one
> Jim Kimball sells. I believe it interlocks to the start switch.
> Dennis
>
Dennis,
Once the valve is removed from the pump, how is it disassembled to accomplish
the above? Is the plug/valve guide/spring seat pressed in or threaded?
Thanks for all the advice provided to the list.
Rich Desmond
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Price Reduction on 1985 Yak 50 |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bill Walker" <bwalker11@charter.net>
Hello Francis,
Would you be interested in trading your Yak 50 for an L39. I owned a 50 for
about three years and would like to have another. The Jet is a '75 model
and you can see a picture of it at http://www.walkerbrosaircraft.com/L39.htm
. I have lowered the price to $175,000.
Thanks,
Bill Walker
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 4:50 PM
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Francis Butler <francisbutler@mac.com>
>
> PRICE REDUCED
>
> For Sale 1985 Yak 50 S/N 853106 Engine: M-14P 360 H.P. 560 hours
> Engine and Airframe. Located: Fargo ND
> Aux fuel, Bose jack, cockpit air release, Hoffman 3 blade prop, all new
> flex hoses in early 2004. Flex hoses redone by Termikas in Lithuania.
> Always hangered (heated).
>
> The 50 is a riot. You will see what I'm talking about the first time you
> fire it up and taxi for departure. This aircraft comes with many $$$
> worth of spares and extra's.
>
> Spares inventory includes: New gear legs in the crate, spare main and aux
> fuel tanks, electrical generator, tach generator, complete front shutter
> assembly, tailwheel rim with 2 new tires, air compressor, tailwheel strut,
> complete Yak tool set, Yak floor jacks, complete yak 52 parts/spares kit
> includes 38 new spark plugs, complete hardcopy manual set and also the CD
> rom version. Yak tool set and parts kit came from a new Yak 52 that I had
> owned and sold but kept the tools and parts. Spares will not be sold
> seperately.
>
> Price: $69,000, includes all spares. Have taken delivery of my new Extra
> 300L.
> Can deliver aircraft and all that goes with it.
>
> Contact: Francis Butler
> ND Hanger: 701 239-4532
> SD Home: 605 486-4323
> Cell 701 238-1826
>
> email: francis_butler@msn.com or francisbutler@mac.com
>
> PIctures and info at the following link.
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/francisbutler/
>
>
>
Message 11
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Shack Berry.
For the interested or uninterested, Red Air II is on for 12-15 Oct 06 at the Old
Craig AFB, Selma, Al. It will happen again in the May ~19th time frame at Fairhope,
Al. Fairhope is on the Alabama gulf coast between Mobile and Pensacola,
Fl. I personally missed it this year and regreted it from all I heard. Will
be there next year though and at Selma, for this years repeat of last year's.
For the interested, go to the RPA website and sign up.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 8/5/2006 9:40:59 AM
On Aug 4, 2006, at 11:58 PM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
Read between the lines, boys. All I'm saying is 20 bucks a picture is
excessive. I can get 36 exposures processed for less than that.
Frank
To argue with you or even to talk sense is fruitless, Frank. It is apparent, however,
that you do not take the time to read/understand the costs involved for
Brandon. For a guy as smart as you, your logic here is surprising. However,
your logic does allow you to arrive at the incorrect conclusion with confidence...even
if 50 people tell you you're off base. You clearly don't know what
printing high quality pictures on your home computer costs, forget about packaging
and shipping. I think you just like the attention that comes with being
a prick...and for whatever reason, we give it to you....
Let me just add the Brandon is no only a "really good guy" - he's a *great* guy.
Someone who comes to two events (as his own expense) and volunteers his time
and tactical experience for the betterment and enjoyment of the group and asks
for nothing in return has a tremendous value to the community. We were "roommates"
at ARS and all I can say is that the community needs more guys like
Brandon.
Brandon, thank you for your tireless efforts and "value added" service of not only
taking the pictures but making them available to those who want them....next
time, ask me for an ARS email list so you don't have to deal with the Franks
of the world...life's too short.
Cheers,
Barry
Event Director
All Red Star
ARS VI - May 2-6, 2007
Message 12
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The pressure relieve valve is held in by a spring. The valve is behind
the oil pressure adjuster screw. Remove the adjuster assembly and you
will see the spring and valve.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Desmor944@aol.com
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: oil leaks
In a message dated 8/4/2006 9:27:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dsavarese@elmore.rr.com writes:
Remove the oil shut off valve from the oil pump; check the spring
and make sure it is not cracked or bent; resurface the valve; inspect
the seat; reinstall. The other alternative is to install an oil shut
off valve like the one Jim Kimball sells. I believe it interlocks to
the start switch.
Dennis
Dennis,
Once the valve is removed from the pump, how is it disassembled to
accomplish the above? Is the plug/valve guide/spring seat pressed in or
threaded?
Thanks for all the advice provided to the list.
Rich Desmond
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