Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:22 PM - Prop piston cup (flir47)
2. 04:22 PM - SFM Fly-in, Great and Unbelievable news (Stephen Fox)
3. 05:10 PM - Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] (A. Dennis Savarese)
4. 05:55 PM - Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] (flir47)
5. 06:41 PM - Re: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] (A. Dennis Savarese)
6. 08:29 PM - Personal Cooling Device (Dave Laird)
7. 08:29 PM - Spartanburg airshow (Bill Walker)
8. 10:54 PM - fastener removal, (Tryon)
Message 1
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--> Yak-List message posted by: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
Anyone machine a piston cup on a lathe??? If so. where did you locate at on the
cup???
--------
It's not a real world war untill France surenders!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55352#55352
Message 2
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| Subject: | SFM Fly-in, Great and Unbelievable news |
Bill Gianetta, Supervisor of Operations, Portland Maine Flight
Standards District Office has granted our waiver to do a bomb
((pumpkin) drop in the #1 pond in downtown Sanford, ME during the
RedStar Fall Fly-in at SFM
So if you've been waiting to register for the event to see if we
could pull this off - wait no longer! Maps and routing for the bomb
drop are up on the web site, but you can only get to them after you
register for the event.
Register at: http://www.flyredstar.org/T_EventDetail.aspx?ID=11
you can also go to the web site to learn more and register.
Web site: Fall Fly-in
Steve Fox
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Be very careful because if you take too much material off the dome/cup
interior, the large seal on the piston will not seal properly and you will
have a constant oil leak from around the dome. Replacing the seal with a
new seal will not fix the problem. You may be better off buying a
new/reconditioned piston and dome.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 3:21 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Prop piston cup[LashBack]
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
>
> Anyone machine a piston cup on a lathe??? If so?. where did you locate
> at on the cup???
>
> --------
> It's not a real world war untill France surenders!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55352#55352
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
Dennis
That is interesting. How is a cup reconditioned? Welded and turned? Or just cleaned
up? I have the prop manual so . Im going to look up the tolerances if they
are there. I put the seals in and the gasket is not leaking. So with that said
it has to be the dome or shaft is worn. Its not rusted or pitted.
How much is a dome?? By the way these things are like a BOAT "break out another
thousand"
:(
--------
It's not a real world war untill France surenders!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55383#55383
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
I'm assuming a cup/dome can be turned only "x" number of thousands. But I
do not have those specifications available. I also do not know the
procedure for reconditioning. Most likely though, it's a resurface only to
the maximum inside diameter. If the dome is scored, it usually means the
inner seal on the piston was probably badly worn. A worn inner seal usually
permits oil to leak into the hub where it then shows up at the sawtooth
mating surface of the prop flange/hub.
Call Doug Sapp or Carl or Jill Hays for a price on the hub dome.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack]
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
>
> Dennis
>
> That is interesting?. How is a cup reconditioned? Welded and turned? Or
> just cleaned up? I have the prop manual so ?. I?Tm going to look up the
> tolerances if they are there. I put the seals in and the gasket is not
> leaking. So with that said it has to be the dome or shaft is worn. It?Ts
> not rusted or pitted.
>
> How much is a dome?? By the way these things are like a BOAT "break out
> another thousand"
> :(
>
> --------
> It's not a real world war untill France surenders!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55383#55383
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Personal Cooling Device |
--> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
Has anyone used any type of personal cooling device while they fly?
I did a google search and found a variety of items, but I'm curious
as to which work best
in our airplanes.
Dave "Simmering in Texas" Laird
N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
Dallas (ADS)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Spartanburg airshow |
Does anyone have any info in regards to RedStars at his show?
BW
Message 8
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| Subject: | fastener removal, |
I'll second what doug say's about the side cutters that works ok, but
it's a little time conusming..
For the panel's that are easily removed and can be worked on the bench,
I found the Dzus removal tool to work the best , cleanest and fastest.
They make a cutting tool that is basically a round bushing with a sharp
point that fits a certain way over the Dzus.. Can be bought for the
various sized from "Mil-Spec Products" .. They are in Fla. I think..
They have the fasteners in Stainless also, in the various sizes, types,
and lengths.
but for the big one's like on the side panels, that are hard to remove,
Dougs way is the best.
but you still need the mandrels to reinstall the new fasteners..
Goodluck,,
R. Wilson
---- Forwarded Message
From: doug sapp <rvfltd@televar.com>
Craig,
The only way I have been able to do the job is to buy a pair of side
cutters that has enough meat in the jaws to grind one side perfectly
flat so that you end up with a very fine flat (and very sharp) edge.
Place the cutters flat edge down and allow the sharp edges to go under
the soft alu collar. Next work around the Duz, pinching off the alu
collar as you go around.
I do have the proper Chinese Duz fasteners if you need them. When
restoring the Miniyak I noticed the all the slots on the stock aircraft
were in line with the slip stream. When I attempted to replace the
rusted Duz fasteners with US fasteners I found that now all the slots
were 90 degrees to the slip stream. A very small point that I am sure
no one would notice, but I wanted it to be "as per".
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 4:17 AM
To: yak-list
Subject: Yak-List: Dzus Removal
I hate to interrupt all the fun on the 'list lately but does anyone
have a slick way of removing Dzus grommets that crimp the studs? Looks
like a hacksaw job otherwise.
Craig Payne
cpayne@joimail.com
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