Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:53 AM - Re: Personal Cooling Device (Tim Gagnon)
2. 05:32 AM - Re: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] (Jim Bernier)
3. 05:49 AM - Re: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] (Jim Bernier)
4. 06:00 AM - Re: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] (A. Dennis Savarese)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Personal Cooling Device (Roger Kemp)
6. 07:11 AM - Personal Cooling Device (Tom Johnson)
7. 10:59 AM - Bleeding MATCO/Russian brakes (Scott Poehlmann)
8. 11:17 AM - Re: Personal Cooling Device (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
9. 07:24 PM - Re: Bleeding MATCO/Russian brakes (john Fischer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Personal Cooling Device |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim Gagnon" <NiftyYak50@msn.com>
After 3000+ hours of bouncing around in a C-130 all over the world, I simply take
a bandana, leave it in cold water for a few minutes, and throw it around my
neck. It has worked pretty good and has certainly kept me from puking more than
once.
Also, I have a small Camelback that I strap around the back of my seat and run
the tube up after I strap in. Keeps you hydrated!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55477#55477
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
>>> dsavarese@elmore.rr.com 08/17/06 8:39 PM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
I'm assuming a cup/dome can be turned only "x" number of thousands. But I
do not have those specifications available. I also do not know the
procedure for reconditioning. Most likely though, it's a resurface only to
the maximum inside diameter. If the dome is scored, it usually means the
inner seal on the piston was probably badly worn. A worn inner seal usually
permits oil to leak into the hub where it then shows up at the sawtooth
mating surface of the prop flange/hub.
Call Doug Sapp or Carl or Jill Hays for a price on the hub dome.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack]
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
>
> Dennis
>
> That is interesting?|. How is a cup reconditioned? Welded and turned? Or
> just cleaned up? I have the prop manual so ?|. I?Tm going to look up the
> tolerances if they are there. I put the seals in and the gasket is not
> leaking. So with that said it has to be the dome or shaft is worn. It?Ts
> not rusted or pitted.
>
> How much is a dome?? By the way these things are like a BOAT "break out
> another thousand"
> :(
>
> --------
> It's not a real world war untill France surenders!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55383#55383
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Sorry, spoke to soon.
What I wanted to say was, if a thousand or so is enough to clean it up, and it
is out of tolerance, can it be chromed? And at what cost? If it can be found new
or servicable used, then it is likely that this would be the better alternative.
IMHO
Jim B
>>> JBernier@dart.org 08/18/06 7:32 AM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
>>> dsavarese@elmore.rr.com 08/17/06 8:39 PM >>>
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
I'm assuming a cup/dome can be turned only "x" number of thousands. But I
do not have those specifications available. I also do not know the
procedure for reconditioning. Most likely though, it's a resurface only to
the maximum inside diameter. If the dome is scored, it usually means the
inner seal on the piston was probably badly worn. A worn inner seal usually
permits oil to leak into the hub where it then shows up at the sawtooth
mating surface of the prop flange/hub.
Call Doug Sapp or Carl or Jill Hays for a price on the hub dome.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack]
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
>
> Dennis
>
> That is interesting?|. How is a cup reconditioned? Welded and turned? Or
> just cleaned up? I have the prop manual so ?|. I?Tm going to look up the
> tolerances if they are there. I put the seals in and the gasket is not
> leaking. So with that said it has to be the dome or shaft is worn. It?Ts
> not rusted or pitted.
>
> How much is a dome?? By the way these things are like a BOAT "break out
> another thousand"
> :(
>
> --------
> It's not a real world war untill France surenders!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55383#55383
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack] |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
If aluminum can be chromed, then the dome could be chromed. I have no idea
what the cost would be though. I think purchasing a new or reconditioned
unit would be less costly and certainly the turn around time would be much
faster too.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack]
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
>
> Sorry, spoke to soon.
>
> What I wanted to say was, if a thousand or so is enough to clean it up,
> and it is out of tolerance, can it be chromed? And at what cost? If it can
> be found new or servicable used, then it is likely that this would be the
> better alternative.
> IMHO
> Jim B
>
>>>> JBernier@dart.org 08/18/06 7:32 AM >>>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Jim Bernier" <JBernier@dart.org>
>
>
>>>> dsavarese@elmore.rr.com 08/17/06 8:39 PM >>>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese"
> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
>
> I'm assuming a cup/dome can be turned only "x" number of thousands. But I
> do not have those specifications available. I also do not know the
> procedure for reconditioning. Most likely though, it's a resurface only
> to
> the maximum inside diameter. If the dome is scored, it usually means the
> inner seal on the piston was probably badly worn. A worn inner seal
> usually
> permits oil to leak into the hub where it then shows up at the sawtooth
> mating surface of the prop flange/hub.
>
> Call Doug Sapp or Carl or Jill Hays for a price on the hub dome.
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:54 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop piston cup[LashBack]
>
>
>> --> Yak-List message posted by: "flir47" <me262pilot@comcast.net>
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> That is interesting?|. How is a cup reconditioned? Welded and turned?
>> Or
>> just cleaned up? I have the prop manual so ?|. I?Tm going to look up
>> the
>> tolerances if they are there. I put the seals in and the gasket is not
>> leaking. So with that said it has to be the dome or shaft is worn. It?Ts
>> not rusted or pitted.
>>
>> How much is a dome?? By the way these things are like a BOAT "break
>> out
>> another thousand"
>> :(
>>
>> --------
>> It's not a real world war untill France surenders!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55383#55383
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Personal Cooling Device |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Drink a couple of liters of water. One before and one in flight. Also,
drink one after you land. At least you will stay hydrated so your natural
cooling system can handle the temp. load. As for using the ventilation
spacer garments you speak, I do not have much experience with them other
than some of my guys in the "sandbox" are getting them. They allow air
circulation between the outer heavy garments (flak Vest, ect.). The oral
hydration is still the key. They just let air circulate more freely.
Some of the circulating water cooled vest were considered to bulky. I
suspect that maybe the case in the CJ/YAK.
I am adding a couple of NACA scoops to the dorsal surface of my 50. One to
cool the instruments and the other my lower torso. I have found that flying
with the canopy open and carrying water tucked in my helmet bag attached by
a carabineer to one of the bulk heads helps a lot to maintain hydration
also.
The wet towel around the neck is a good option also since it lowers the
surface temp on the neck where major arteries that feed the brain are
closer to the surface.
Spending more time outside in the hot air of summer and less time in air
conditioned buildings helps to get one more acclimated to the heat also.
Again hydration is the key. The earliest symptom of dehydration is the
onset of a headache.
Sorry to expound so much with a respond that was not providing an answer to
your intial question of what device works best to aid in cooling you down
while in flight. Hydration and opening the canopy works for me. The
ventilation in the 50 was not well thought out but guess when your max
flight was going to be for 30 min, cockpit temperature was not an issue.
Incidentally, headache is one of the first signs of CO poisoning too. Now I
am not trying to res erect that deceased horse either.
Hope this helped a little, fwiw.
Viperdoc
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 8/17/2006 10:37:11 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Personal Cooling Device
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Dave Laird <dave@davelaird.com>
>
> Has anyone used any type of personal cooling device while they fly?
>
> I did a google search and found a variety of items, but I'm curious
> as to which work best
> in our airplanes.
>
>
> Dave "Simmering in Texas" Laird
> N63536 1983 CJ6A "Betty"
> Dallas (ADS)
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Personal Cooling Device |
Dave:
I installed one of those "Camelback" type water containers in my Yak,
mounted it with Velcro so I can take in and out.
I put in cold water before a flight. It has a tube that does not leak and
you can take a drink any time in flight.
Makes a big difference for me here in Arizona.
Tj
---------------------------
Thomas Johnson
Airpower Insurance, LLC
36 West Ocotillo Road
Phoenix, AZ 85013-1235
Toll Free: 866-475-9199
Tel: 602-628-2701
Fax: 623-321-5843
www.airpowerinsurance.com <http://www.airpowerinsurance.com/>
E: tomjohnson@cox.net
Message 7
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| Subject: | Bleeding MATCO/Russian brakes |
Hi All,
I need to bleed the brakes on my Yak 55, which has Russian master
cylinders and MATCO slaves. Any suggestions or pitfalls I need to look
out for?
Thanks,
Scott
Message 8
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| Subject: | Personal Cooling Device |
They make a big difference in Iraq too.
Mark
________________________________
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Johnson
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 10:13
Subject: Yak-List: Personal Cooling Device
Dave:
I installed one of those "Camelback" type water containers in my Yak,
mounted it with Velcro so I can take in and out.
I put in cold water before a flight. It has a tube that does not leak
and you can take a drink any time in flight.
Makes a big difference for me here in Arizona.
Tj
---------------------------
Thomas Johnson
Airpower Insurance, LLC
36 West Ocotillo Road
Phoenix, AZ 85013-1235
Toll Free: 866-475-9199
Tel: 602-628-2701
Fax: 623-321-5843
www.airpowerinsurance.com <http://www.airpowerinsurance.com/>
E: tomjohnson@cox.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding MATCO/Russian brakes |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "john Fischer" <fish@aviation-tech.com>
Scott,
I can't tell you about bleeding the brakes on a Yak-55, however about bleeding
brakes in general. I use a hand vacume pump from the lowest point in the system,
that way I can do it by myself. This has worked first time evey time for me.
I purchase my kit at Harbor freight. We have one here local if you need me to
pick one up for you.
In a bunch of parts that I purchased are some Yak-55, wheels/brakes and misc
parts. I am looking to sell or trade for Yak-52, PT-19A, PT-26, L-5, L-5E, BT-13A
or BT-13B parts (my other projects).
Good luck
John fischer
Yak-52, N213YA
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I need to bleed the brakes on my Yak 55, which has Russian master >cylinders
and MATCO slaves. Any suggestions or pitfalls I need to look >out for?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Scott
>
>
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