Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:23 AM - Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (cjpilot710@aol.com)
2. 05:41 AM - Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Scooter)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (A. Dennis Savarese)
4. 12:47 PM - Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Roger Kemp)
5. 03:05 PM - Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Scooter)
6. 03:35 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (JOE HOWSE)
7. 04:27 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Roger Kemp)
8. 04:33 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (A. Dennis Savarese)
9. 04:38 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (A. Dennis Savarese)
10. 05:08 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Roger Kemp)
11. 05:09 PM - Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Scooter)
12. 05:16 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (JOE HOWSE)
13. 05:16 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Roger Kemp)
14. 07:48 PM - Generator Won't Generate (Mike Bell)
15. 09:15 PM - Re: Generator Won't Generate (ggg6@att.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
Scooter,
First - Is this an M-14 or HS-6?
Second - Are you sure this vibration was not in the engine before? You may
be noticing it now that you're 'sensitive' to the fact that you've worked on
worked on it for the first time.
If its an M-14 did you leave the prop level while working on it. Moisture
in the wood blades can 'flow' to the tip of one blade and the hub of the
other, if left vertical. Maybe this is the vibration you feel.
If there is no oil in the hub than its fairly assured that the seals are
working as they should.
If this is M-14 check that all the prop bolts on the prop flange are there
- tight and secured.
Also check to see if you may have inadvertently removed any balance
weights.
This will be interesting. Good luck
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
Okay. Thought i was doing something simple but apparently not so.
I replaced the two seals in the prop "piston" and now have some substantial
vibration. Here's the scenario:
1. Replaced two seals in piston (see diagram for orientation of the v-shape
of the seals). Note: I did not disassemble the blades or change blade angle
in any way.
2. Ran the engine and noticed prop vibration.
3. Disassembled prop piston and found oil in the hub. The seals looked fine
so I assumed a pinched seal or I dumped it in when i pulled the piston off?
4. Reassembled, ran engine and same vibration.
5. Disassembled prop piston and found no oil in hub.
6. Reassembled, ran engine and same vibration.
The vibration is minimal from 35 to 45%, peaks at 50% and subsides up to 60
and 70%. Mag drops are normal and prop cycles normally at 70%. The
vibration at 50% is significant - definately not healthy for any period.
On disassembly there appears to be roughly 16 fluid ounces of oil in the
prop piston but, again, none in the hub.
Any ideas? This one has me baffled.
Thanks!
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
I don't have a good feeling about this (it's been a long night). It is an M-14p.
The vibration at 50% is significant - I definately would have noticed before.
I can't imagine that I inadvertantly removed anything since the job was so
simple (cotter-pin, nut, safety wire, screw).
Unfortunately I'm starting to think worst case. I am religious about pulling the
prop through and I did this prior to starting (with the intake drain open).
The engine hadn't been run in a week and the drain was left open over that week.
I used four shots of primer but i'm a little fuzzy on whether i pulled the
prop through after that. Could this have caused a hydraulic lock and bent
rod? How do I go about checking this or what do I tell the local A&P to check?
Thanks.
[quote="cjpilot710(at)aol.com"]Scooter,
First - Is this an M-14 or HS-6?
Second - Are you sure this vibration was not in the engine before? You may be
noticing it now that you're 'sensitive' to the fact that you've worked on worked
on it for the first time.
If its an M-14 did you leave the prop level while working on it. Moisture in
the wood blades can 'flow' to the tip of one blade and the hub of the other,
if left vertical.? Maybe this is the vibration you feel.
If there is no oil in the hub than its fairly assured that the seals are working
as they should.
If this is M-14 check that all the prop bolts on the prop flange are there -
tight and secured.
Also check to see if you may have inadvertently removed any balance weights.
This will be interesting. Good luck
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59350#59350
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Scooter,
Since you say the vibration started after you removed and replaced the seals
in the dome and piston and you said you did nothing else, the only other
possibility which is rather remote is to remove the dome and rotate it 90
degrees and see if that changes anything. I doubt it will, but it won't
hurt to try.
Check to see if you have any "slop" in the counter weight arms. That is,
try moving one side and see if there is any play. Now try the other
counterweight. You may just have a worn hub. BTW, did you try moving the
counterweights fore and aft when you had the dome and piston removed. They
should move with some reasonable restriction. Most importantly, they should
move and you should be able to push/pull on one counterweight and be able to
move both blades.
It is not logical that you have had a hydraulic lock that is causing the
vibration. I have seen several Yak 52's that have the vibration somewhere
between 47% to 53%. As an experiment, try putting a wrap of duct tape on
one of the blades about 1-2" in from the tip. Run the engine and see if it
gets worse or better. If better, add another wrap of duct tape. If worse,
try the same thing on the other blade. Once you determine which blade needs
the weight, you can add weights to that side of the hub or if it requires
very little weight, you can use spray paint on the back side of the blade to
balance the blade.
Make sure all the parts labeled "1" and "2" are all on the same side of the
hub. That includes the blades which have a "1" or "2" stamped in the metal
blade shanks. Even the small locking plates on each side of the front of
the hub are labeled "1" and "2". If you removed the blades by unscrewing
just the blades from the hub, use a digital level or protractor to reset the
blade angles. This is not the same as removing the large castellated nuts
to access the bearings and races.
Finally, find someone to dynamically balance the prop.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 7:39 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
>
> I don't have a good feeling about this (it's been a long night). It is an
> M-14p. The vibration at 50% is significant - I definately would have
> noticed before. I can't imagine that I inadvertantly removed anything
> since the job was so simple (cotter-pin, nut, safety wire, screw).
>
> Unfortunately I'm starting to think worst case. I am religious about
> pulling the prop through and I did this prior to starting (with the intake
> drain open). The engine hadn't been run in a week and the drain was left
> open over that week. I used four shots of primer but i'm a little fuzzy
> on whether i pulled the prop through after that. Could this have caused a
> hydraulic lock and bent rod? How do I go about checking this or what do I
> tell the local A&P to check?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> [quote="cjpilot710(at)aol.com"]Scooter,
>
> First - Is this an M-14 or HS-6?
> Second - Are you sure this vibration was not in the engine before? You
> may be noticing it now that you're 'sensitive' to the fact that you've
> worked on worked on it for the first time.
>
> If its an M-14 did you leave the prop level while working on it.
> Moisture in the wood blades can 'flow' to the tip of one blade and the
> hub of the other, if left vertical.? Maybe this is the vibration you
> feel.
>
> If there is no oil in the hub than its fairly assured that the seals are
> working as they should.
>
> If this is M-14 check that all the prop bolts on the prop flange are
> there - tight and secured.
>
> Also check to see if you may have inadvertently removed any balance
> weights.
>
> This will be interesting. Good luck
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
>
>> [b]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59350#59350
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Scooter,
Talk to Shane Golden about this. He had a similar problem after servicing
his prop (changing the seals, repacking the races and bearings).
Even though you did not pull the blades, are the slides still engaged with
the hub of the blade. If I remember correctly, they allow the coordinated
change in the pitch of the two prop blades. Sorry I do not have 52
Maintenance manual at hand to give the exact part names. I will dig it out
when I go up to the hanger today and correct my errors above.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Scooter <yakk52@verizon.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/3/2006 6:40:29 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
>
> Okay. Thought i was doing something simple but apparently not so.
>
> I replaced the two seals in the prop "piston" and now have some
substantial vibration. Here's the scenario:
>
> 1. Replaced two seals in piston (see diagram for orientation of the
v-shape of the seals). Note: I did not disassemble the blades or change
blade angle in any way.
> 2. Ran the engine and noticed prop vibration.
> 3. Disassembled prop piston and found oil in the hub. The seals looked
fine so I assumed a pinched seal or I dumped it in when i pulled the piston
off?
> 4. Reassembled, ran engine and same vibration.
> 5. Disassembled prop piston and found no oil in hub.
> 6. Reassembled, ran engine and same vibration.
>
> The vibration is minimal from 35 to 45%, peaks at 50% and subsides up to
60 and 70%. Mag drops are normal and prop cycles normally at 70%. The
vibration at 50% is significant - definately not healthy for any period.
>
> On disassembly there appears to be roughly 16 fluid ounces of oil in the
prop piston but, again, none in the hub.
>
> Any ideas? This one has me baffled.
> Thanks!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59280#59280
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/prop_hub_seals_897.jpg
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
Thanks. I'm beginning to think that the vibration problem is coincidental to the
seal replacement. The blade angle can be changed by pulling on the counterweights
- the blades move together and I didn't detect any slop. The prop doesn't
have any knicks or missing hardware. If I run it up to 70% and cycle the
prop it goes between 70% and 50% (pretty much like it always has).
The vibration is pretty significant. It's hard to quantify but it bounces me around
pretty good. I took the piston out yet again today (5th time?) and didn't
find any oil in the hub.
I spoke with a mechanic at the airport who is leaning towards a stuck valve. He's
going to do a compression test on wednesday. A stuck valve sounds better
than a bent rod...
dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co wrote:
> Scooter,
> Since you say the vibration started after you removed and replaced the seals
> in the dome and piston and you said you did nothing else, the only other
> ---
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59454#59454
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: JOE HOWSE <joeh@shaw.ca>
Sounds like an engine problem,
Try changing the mag coil which also incorporates the condenser.
Joe
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Scooter,
Did you not say the mag check did not change the engine vibrations?
Viperdoc
> [Original Message]
> From: JOE HOWSE <joeh@shaw.ca>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/4/2006 5:47:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: JOE HOWSE <joeh@shaw.ca>
>
> Sounds like an engine problem,
>
> Try changing the mag coil which also incorporates the condenser.
>
> Joe
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
Stuck valve? hummmmm..... I seriously doubt a stuck valve is going to
work properly at 60% and above and not work properly at only 50%.
No oil in the hub means you installed the inner seal correctly. And outer
seal improperly installed will cause the worst oil leak you ever saw when
you run the engine. When you remove the dome and piston, separate the
piston from the dome. Then dump out all the oil from the dome. Now insert
the piston only back on the oil tube and look at the gaps on the top,
bottom, left and right. They should all be pretty close to the same. If
the gaps are way off, the oil tube is bent and should be replaced. You'll
have to remove the prop to remove the oil tube unless you have a VERY deep
well socket.
With oil in the hub dome and piston, is there any play in the counterweight
movement. There shouldn't be any play. If there is, the hub may need to be
overhauled.
Try the duck tape tests I mentioned earlier.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 5:03 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
>
> Thanks. I'm beginning to think that the vibration problem is coincidental
> to the seal replacement. The blade angle can be changed by pulling on the
> counterweights - the blades move together and I didn't detect any slop.
> The prop doesn't have any knicks or missing hardware. If I run it up to
> 70% and cycle the prop it goes between 70% and 50% (pretty much like it
> always has).
>
> The vibration is pretty significant. It's hard to quantify but it bounces
> me around pretty good. I took the piston out yet again today (5th time?)
> and didn't find any oil in the hub.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic at the airport who is leaning towards a stuck
> valve. He's going to do a compression test on wednesday. A stuck valve
> sounds better than a bent rod...
>
>
> dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co wrote:
>> Scooter,
>> Since you say the vibration started after you removed and replaced the
>> seals
>> in the dome and piston and you said you did nothing else, the only other
>> ---
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59454#59454
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
If it's a mag coil problem, it can be eliminated from the ground tests by
turning off one or the other mag. If it doesn't go away, it isn't mag
related. Mag coils either work or they don't work. They typically don't
exhibit a failure at 50% rpm and then work well at 60% and above. When a
coil fails the symptom is a complete engine shutdown for a split second.
Everyone that has experience a coil failure knows precisely what I'm talking
about. Right Doc?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOE HOWSE" <joeh@shaw.ca>
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
> --> Yak-List message posted by: JOE HOWSE <joeh@shaw.ca>
>
> Sounds like an engine problem,
>
> Try changing the mag coil which also incorporates the condenser.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Scooter,
Wth the radial you may never feel a struck or burned valve. Been there, got
the T shirt. Did not even feel the dead cylinder (#4, home of the master
rod). Definately felt the dead mag but certainly not to the point of
causing violent airframe vibration. It was just miss firing a bunch.
Definately felt the bad coil when the engine misfired (backfired) causing a
heartbeat engine shutdown. These engines do not act like flat ones when
they have a stuck valve. Where as the flat engine will either completely
shutdown or vibrate your eye teeth out, the radial does not generally do
that. To date with my limited experience, seems that each of the engines
that I know of that had a connecting rod failure sucked a piston into the
nosecase, sheared the prop shaft and ended up with a freewheeling prop.
They did it pretty much without much warning.
Are you seeing a chip detector light? Granted it only sees the chunks of
metal not the fine shavings. .
You are correct to do a compression check. That will tell you if you have a
cylinder related problem. When you pull the prop thru, is it free moving
with the normal resistance on pull through with the plugs in? Do you hear a
hissing in the exhaust stacks when you are pulling through compression
strokes? Is it harder to pull through than normal? With all the plugs
pulled for the compression test, pull the blades all the way thru for a
minimum of 8 blades, do you feel resistance to the free movement of the
prop? If so, then there is problem with the connecting rods or the pleniary
gears. Just a theory on my part though.
This was not happening prior to you pulling the piston out of your prop to
change the seals? No missing bolts from the prop hub? Still sounds like a
prop issue but as I said above, I can be wrong.
Dennis Savarese, Doug Sapp, Steve Culp, Carl Hayes, or George Coy are a lot
smarter than me on this one. Need to keep picking their brains. Will be
interested to hear what you find.
Viperdoc
> [Original Message]
> From: Scooter <yakk52@verizon.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/4/2006 5:17:45 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
>
> Thanks. I'm beginning to think that the vibration problem is
coincidental to the seal replacement. The blade angle can be changed by
pulling on the counterweights - the blades move together and I didn't
detect any slop. The prop doesn't have any knicks or missing hardware. If
I run it up to 70% and cycle the prop it goes between 70% and 50% (pretty
much like it always has).
>
> The vibration is pretty significant. It's hard to quantify but it
bounces me around pretty good. I took the piston out yet again today (5th
time?) and didn't find any oil in the hub.
>
> I spoke with a mechanic at the airport who is leaning towards a stuck
valve. He's going to do a compression test on wednesday. A stuck valve
sounds better than a bent rod...
>
>
> dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co wrote:
> > Scooter,
> > Since you say the vibration started after you removed and replaced the
seals
> > in the dome and piston and you said you did nothing else, the only
other
> > ---
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59454#59454
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
Actually the vibration peaks at 50%. It is present from idle to 70% (I haven't
pushed it any higher). It ramps up from idle to 50% then ramps down. It's difficult
to quantify exactly.
Mag drops at 70% were normal.
I'll try those tests. Any other advice will be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind
that everything was absolutely normal prior to removing the dome and piston.
Thanks.
dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co wrote:
> Stuck valve? hummmmm..... I seriously doubt a stuck valve is going to
> work properly at 60% and above and not work properly at only 50%.
> No oil in the hub means you installed the inner seal correctly. And outer
> seal improperly installed will cause the worst oil leak you ever saw when
> you run the engine. When you remove the dome and piston, separate the
> piston from the dome. Then dump out all the oil from the dome. Now insert
> the piston only back on the oil tube and look at the gaps on the top,
> bottom, left and right. They should all be pretty close to the same. If
> the gaps are way off, the oil tube is bent and should be replaced. You'll
> have to remove the prop to remove the oil tube unless you have a VERY deep
> well socket.
>
> With oil in the hub dome and piston, is there any play in the counterweight
> movement. There shouldn't be any play. If there is, the hub may need to be
> overhauled.
>
> Try the duck tape tests I mentioned earlier.
> Dennis
>
>
> ---
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59479#59479
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: JOE HOWSE <joeh@shaw.ca>
Dennis
Not so, the condenser part of the coil can exhibit a similar problem , I
have experienced it twice, also found this problem on Hal's airplane years
ago.
Cured by changing coils
You are correct with american mag coils that have a seperate condenser.
Joe
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
YOU BET! Been there more than once and have a T shirt to prove it. It is a
heart stopping shutdown followed by it running like nothing happened for
about another 15 minutes then it starts again! Guarenteed you will suck the
seat pack halfway up your backside!
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/4/2006 6:46:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese"
<dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
>
> If it's a mag coil problem, it can be eliminated from the ground tests by
> turning off one or the other mag. If it doesn't go away, it isn't mag
> related. Mag coils either work or they don't work. They typically don't
> exhibit a failure at 50% rpm and then work well at 60% and above. When a
> coil fails the symptom is a complete engine shutdown for a split second.
> Everyone that has experience a coil failure knows precisely what I'm
talking
> about. Right Doc?
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "JOE HOWSE" <joeh@shaw.ca>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 5:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
>
>
> > --> Yak-List message posted by: JOE HOWSE <joeh@shaw.ca>
> >
> > Sounds like an engine problem,
> >
> > Try changing the mag coil which also incorporates the condenser.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Generator Won't Generate |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>
Test ran my Yak-52 after months of work only to find the "Generator Damage" light
is on and ammeter confirms. Run-up to 70% doesn't make a difference. I have
checked the overvoltage button (not popped), looked around in the "power supply"
box (wiggled the fuses, and continuity confirmed on the big 30 amp fuses).
I pulled the perfectly-running generator a few months ago to replace the brushes.
Measured wrong and the old brushes were OK but since it was off put in new
ones. My recollection is that I ran it and the generator was fine but now I'm
not positive about that. The 3 wires to the generator are in correctly. Lots
of activity around the engine lately with new hoses and all, but no wiring touched.
An old post mentioned the DMP-200D reverse current relay can fail, same with the
voltage regulator or the TS-9M-2 transformer.
Surely there is a logical way to pin down the problem without replacing components
one at a time. Could the generator need the field flashed, or is that just
urban legend? Appreciate any advice. Once this is fixed it will finally be
flying again.
--------
Mike Bell
Yak 52
Elk Grove, CA
yakflyr@comcastdotnet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59518#59518
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Generator Won't Generate |
Hi Mike, Gary Gabbard here, I have not had the problem on my CJ as I had an Alternator
installed when when I put the M-14P in, but also have a 140 Cessna, the
other day I started it and the Generator would not come on line, so shut down
and flashed the field, started it up and the Generator came on line, no problem
since... So it is not an Urban Legend.. Gary. Good Luck.
-------------- Original message from "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>: --------------
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Mike Bell"
>
> Test ran my Yak-52 after months of work only to find the "Generator Damage"
> light is on and ammeter confirms. Run-up to 70% doesn't make a difference. I
> have checked the overvoltage button (not popped), looked around in the "power
> supply" box (wiggled the fuses, and continuity confirmed on the big 30 amp
> fuses). I pulled the perfectly-running generator a few months ago to replace
the
> brushes. Measured wrong and the old brushes were OK but since it was off put
in
> new ones. My recollection is that I ran it and the generator was fine but now
> I'm not positive about that. The 3 wires to the generator are in correctly. Lots
> of activity around the engine lately with new hoses and all, but no wiring
> touched.
>
> An old post mentioned the DMP-200D reverse current relay can fail, same with
the
> voltage regulator or the TS-9M-2 transformer.
>
> Surely there is a logical way to pin down the problem without replacing
> components one at a time. Could the generator need the field flashed, or is
> that just urban legend? Appreciate any advice. Once this is fixed it will
> finally be flying again.
>
> --------
> Mike Bell
> Yak 52
> Elk Grove, CA
> yakflyr@comcastdotnet
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59518#59518
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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<DIV></DIV>Hi Mike, Gary Gabbard here, I have not had the problem on my CJ as I
had an Alternator installed when when I put the M-14P in, but also have a 140
Cessna, the other day I started it and the Generator would not come on line,
so shut down and flashed the field, started it up and the Generator came on line,
no problem since... So it is not an Urban Legend.. Gary.
Good Luck.<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message from "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>:
-------------- <BR><BR><BR>> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Mike
Bell" <YAKFLYR@COMCAST.NET><BR>> <BR>> Test ran my Yak-52 after months
of work only to find the "Generator Damage" <BR>> light is on and ammeter
confirms. Run-up to 70% doesn't make a difference. I <BR>> have checked the
overvoltage button (not popped), looked around in the "power <BR>> supply"
box (wiggled the fuses, and continuity confirmed on the big 30 amp <BR>>
fuses). I pulled the perfectly-running generator a few months ago to replace
the <BR>> brushes. Measured wrong and the old brushes were OK but since it
was off put in <BR>> new ones. My recollection is that I ran it and the generator
was fine but now <BR>> I'm not positive about that. The 3 wires to the
generator are in correctly. Lots <BR>> of activ
ity ar
ronics
ibutio
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