Yak-List Digest Archive

Wed 09/06/06


Total Messages Posted: 10



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:42 AM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (A. Dennis Savarese)
     2. 05:11 AM - Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Scooter)
     3. 05:15 AM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (ggg6@att.net)
     4. 10:30 AM - Re: No Spartanburg show. (David McGirt)
     5. 02:52 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
     6. 04:19 PM - Request for Info (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
     7. 04:55 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Tim & Jessie Windsor)
     8. 05:25 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (A. Dennis Savarese)
     9. 05:31 PM - Re: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
    10. 07:57 PM - Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration (Scooter)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:42:50 AM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com> Scooter, Why don't you try the simple test I mentioned yesterday? Put a wrap of duct tape on one of the blades about 2" in from the tip and run the engine. If it improves, you've got the right blade. If it gets worse, remove the tape on that blade and put a wrap on the other blade and run it. Regardless of which blade it is, add a wrap at a time until the vibration becomes acceptable. You can add spray paint to the back side of the blade once you find out which blade needs additional weight. Somewhat crude, but it works and it's a very simple test. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:07 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> > > Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I've checked just about > everything mentioned. I ran it again today and I can quantify the > vibration a bit better. It seems to have several resonant frequencies. > At 44% the instrument panel shakes to a blur. At 50% the pilot shakes > (and everything blurs). It is substantial. > > I am again thinking it must be the prop. I pulled all the plugs, cleaned > them and did a "finger" check on compression. Seemed fine (nothing stuck > open). > > At this point I'm thinking the next step is to make a jumbo prop wrench, > take the blades off, clean out the oil, grease, etc. and replace the seals > while i'm at it. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59798#59798 > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:11:15 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
    --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> I'll give that a shot. What bothers me is why this happened. I went from zero vibration to losing-my-fillings vibration. I'm just wondering if i'll find the answer when i overhaul the hub? dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co wrote: > Scooter, > Why don't you try the simple test I mentioned yesterday? Put a wrap of duct > tape on one of the blades about 2" in from the tip and run the engine. If > it improves, you've got the right blade. If it gets worse, remove the tape > on that blade and put a wrap on the other blade and run it. Regardless of > which blade it is, add a wrap at a time until the vibration becomes > acceptable. You can add spray paint to the back side of the blade once you > find out which blade needs additional weight. Somewhat crude, but it works > and it's a very simple test. > Dennis > > --- Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59896#59896


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:15:26 AM PST US
    From: ggg6@att.net
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    With the intake drain open or a broken drain tube the Engine will idle at about 36%.. Gary -------------- Original message from "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>: -------------- > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" > > Mark, > I have left my intake drain open a couple of times. I did notice it > misssing but not a violent vibration. If that is what Scooter was trying to > relate. > Doc > > > > [Original Message] > > From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E > > > To: > > Date: 9/5/2006 3:31:20 PM > > Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > > > > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, > MALS-14 64E" > > > > > > Not to disagree with anyone's suggestions (all good), but the first > > thing I would do would be to either purchase or borrow an Infra Red > > Temperature gun.... Run the engine for awhile and then go shoot each > > cylinder and check for close to the same readings on each one. It might > > be something so simple as a dead cylinder. Compression checks to > > follow. > > > > Or ... Do the following first: > > > > > > Take a REALLY close look at your intake drain system. A lot of these > > systems were installed with #4 AN fittings and soft aluminum lines. > > Over time theses things are prone to crack and break, leaving you with a > > rather large leak in the intake system, which makes the engine run rough > > just as you have described. The best solution here of course is to use > > flexible steel braided lines. I've seen this one nail four people so > > far... Me being one of them of course. > > > > Best of luck, > > > > Mark Bitterlich > > N50YK > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > <html> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY --> <head></head> <body> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset --> <DIV></DIV>With the intake drain open or a broken drain tube the Engine will idle at about 36%..&nbsp; Gary<BR> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message from "Roger Kemp" &lt;viperdoc@mindspring.com&gt;: -------------- <BR><BR><BR>&gt; --&gt; Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <VIPERDOC@MINDSPRING.COM><BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Mark, <BR>&gt; I have left my intake drain open a couple of times. I did notice it <BR>&gt; misssing but not a violent vibration. If that is what Scooter was trying to <BR>&gt; relate. <BR>&gt; Doc <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; [Original Message] <BR>&gt; &gt; From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <BR>&gt; <MARK.BITTERLICH@NAVY.MIL><BR>&gt; &gt; To: <YAK-LIST@MATRONICS.COM><BR>&gt; &gt; Date: 9/5/2006 3:31:20 PM <BR>&gt; &gt; Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; --&gt; Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, <BR>&gt; MALS-14 64E" <MARK.BITTERLICH@NAVY.MIL><BR>&gt; &gt; <B R>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; Not to disagree with anyone's suggestions (all good), but the first <BR>&gt; &gt; thing I would do would be to either purchase or borrow an Infra Red <BR>&gt; &gt; Temperature gun.... Run the engine for awhile and then go shoot each <BR>&gt; &gt; cylinder and check for close to the same readings on each one. It might <BR>&gt; &gt; be something so simple as a dead cylinder. Compression checks to <BR>&gt; &gt; follow. <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; Or ... Do the following first: <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; <BR>&gt; &gt; Take a REALLY close look at your intake drain system. A lot of these <BR>&gt; &gt; systems were installed with #4 AN fittings and soft aluminum lines. <BR>&gt; &gt; Over time theses things are prone to crack and break, leaving you with a <BR>&gt; &gt; rather large leak in the intake system, which makes the engine run rough <BR>&gt; &gt; just as you have described. The best solution here of course is to use <BR>&gt; &gt; flexible steel braided li nes. I ===== <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY --> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:30:19 AM PST US
    From: "David McGirt" <david@mcgirt.net>
    Subject: No Spartanburg show.
    Hank, There is a pretty large group of us that will be at Sparta, TN this Friday and through the weekend , and flying in the Onieda Airshow.. if you are in the area, look us up. We would be glad to fly with you. David _____ From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hank Gibson Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 10:26 AM Subject: Re: Yak-List: No Spartanburg show. Hi, FNG here. Since Sartanburg is cancelled; Any lead and/or check pilots willing to meet and fly some FAST training sorties in the SE for myself and maybe two others weekend of Sep 16th? Pls contact off list. Hank "Hoot" Gibson cjpilot710@aol.com wrote: Troops, Just called the Spartanburg airport. _____ Get your email and more, right on the new <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=42973/*http:/www.yahoo.com/preview> Yahoo.com


    Message 5


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    Time: 02:52:40 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    Gary, the actual change in idle RPM will vary from engine to engine, and also with the location of the leak and how big it is, not to mention who's version of intake drain kit you have. My engine idles at 20% normally... with the throttle full back. With the intake drain valve open, the idle is almost exactly the same. With my engine, the indicators are: more backfiring in flight with the throttle at idle, and a possible backfire on take-off if the throttle is pushed forward too fast. All of this changes if you simply adjust the carb one or two clicks. For example, when it happened to a PF model M-14, and it was just a cracked tube, the engine was missing in flight at full power and under full load (in the vertical). Everywhere else it was just fine. It is an insidious problem, and no two airplanes are likely to be identical with their particular symptoms. V/R, Mark Bitterlich p.s. And Doc, I agree that the intake drain leak is not likely to give you a violent vibration. However, it does change the way the engine "feels" (per se) as you increase RPM. As I have read about this problem, it seems I did not quite understand just how severe the vibration was. At first I thought it was barely perceptible, but definitely THERE. Now I am hearing: VIOLENT VIBRATION. So... sorry, I misunderstood. I agree with a lot of other peoples recommendations... especially the one where someone suggested that the oil tube might have gotten bent. THAT is very likely considering that when the seals were replaced, the tube would have had to have force applied to it to put everything back in place again. POOF... problem starts on next engine start. After all this, my bet is that it HAS to be in the hub. But hey... nothing wrong with checking that all cylinders are the same temp, and that there are no induction leaks, and a compression check. If those all checked good, along with obvious mag checks, then that pretty much leaves nothing else BUT the hub/prop. ________________________________ From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ggg6@att.net Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 3:06 Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration With the intake drain open or a broken drain tube the Engine will idle at about 36%.. Gary -------------- Original message from "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>: -------------- > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" > > Mark, > I have left my intake drain open a couple of times. I did notice it > misssing but not a violent vibration. If that is what Scooter was trying to > relate. > Doc > > > > [Original Message] > > From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E > > > To: > > Date: 9/5/2006 3:31:20 PM > > Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > > > > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, > MALS-14 64E" > > > > > > Not to disagree with anyone's suggestions (all good), but the first > > thing I would do would be to either purchase or borrow an Infra Red > > Temperature gun.... Run the engine for awhile and then go shoot each > > cylinder and check for close to the same readings on each one. It might > > be something so simple as a dead cylinder. Compression checks to > > follow. > > > > Or ... Do the following first: > > > > > > Take a REALLY close look at your intake drain system. A lot of these > > systems were installed with #4 AN fittings and soft aluminum lines. > > Over time theses things are prone to crack and break, leaving you with a > > rather large leak in the intake system, which makes the engine run rough > > just as you have described. The best solution here of course is to use > > flexible steel braided li nes. I ======


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:19:20 PM PST US
    Subject: Request for Info
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> I've had an on-going problem that many YAK-52 and 50 owners will run into themselves if they hang onto their aircraft long enough. This problem relates to the cowling (both upper and lower halves) and the way it has a 180 degree circular aluminum tube to which the actual metal of the cowl is rolled around and then riveted to. This aluminum tube rests against a metal ring that the engine shutters attach to, and over time it will simply wear through (from vibration) or crack, sometimes in not one, but many places. Any cracks in these tubes should not be ignored, because as they propagate, they will eventually go all the way around the tube itself causing it to fail. When this happens, you can expect to see cracks develop in the actual cowling sheet metal itself since it is now carrying the load. What happens after that is not pretty. Cracks in this tubing can happen more quickly and with more extensive damage if the leather pads that are part of the engine baffling arrangement are allowed to deteriorate. These pads are essential to holding the cowl in place and helping to dampen certain vibration. Needless to say, I have learned all of this the hard way. My YAK-50 has about 700 hours on it now and it has been flown hard. The worst of my damage was due to a previous owner removing the engine shutters, but that is another story. As these tubes have cracked in my aircraft, I have filled them with 9309 Hysol epoxy. This was a temp. fix at best, but gave me a few years of grace before the problem eventually came back. Now I am faced with not only replacing these tubes, but better yet... redesigning them to prevent this problem from coming back in the future. I have managed to obtain two "virgin" tubes from Romania with all the requisite hardware, but instead of using them, I would like to send them someplace to be used as a "form" in order to have new tubes made of thin wall stainless steel. The replacement tubes would have to be dead on perfect (size/shape/arc/thickness, etc) to work. Does anyone know of any anyone in the country, individual or firm, that can take these tubes and duplicate them EXACTLY out of another material? It would be worthwhile for ALL of us to find someone like this and allow them to make some up for stock. For proof of this, take a hard look at these tubes that I am talking about in YOUR 50 or 52. If the folks over in England have already solved this problem (Rob Kent?) PLEASE let me know. Best Regards to all, Mark Bitterlich N50YK


    Message 7


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    Time: 04:55:51 PM PST US
    From: "Tim & Jessie Windsor" <windsorsedge@ozemail.com.au>
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    --> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim & Jessie Windsor" <windsorsedge@ozemail.com.au> Guys I have a standard Russian VHF in my 52 That receives but has stopped transmitting.Sounds like carrier wave only, have tried reracking but still no good Tim in Oz -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese Sent: Wednesday, 6 September 2006 9:41 PM Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com> Scooter, Why don't you try the simple test I mentioned yesterday? Put a wrap of duct tape on one of the blades about 2" in from the tip and run the engine. If it improves, you've got the right blade. If it gets worse, remove the tape on that blade and put a wrap on the other blade and run it. Regardless of which blade it is, add a wrap at a time until the vibration becomes acceptable. You can add spray paint to the back side of the blade once you find out which blade needs additional weight. Somewhat crude, but it works and it's a very simple test. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:07 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> > > Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I've checked just about > everything mentioned. I ran it again today and I can quantify the > vibration a bit better. It seems to have several resonant frequencies. > At 44% the instrument panel shakes to a blur. At 50% the pilot shakes > (and everything blurs). It is substantial. > > I am again thinking it must be the prop. I pulled all the plugs, cleaned > them and did a "finger" check on compression. Seemed fine (nothing stuck > open). > > At this point I'm thinking the next step is to make a jumbo prop wrench, > take the blades off, clean out the oil, grease, etc. and replace the seals > while i'm at it. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59798#59798 > > > __________ NOD32 1.1742 (20060906) Information __________ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com


    Message 8


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    Time: 05:25:38 PM PST US
    From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com> You can ship your radio back to Termikas in Lithuania and they will repair and test it. That is the only company I know of that can do it that we are able to communicate with. http://www.termikas.com/ No idea how much it will cost. But at least you can ask. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim & Jessie Windsor" <windsorsedge@ozemail.com.au> Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 6:55 PM Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim & Jessie Windsor" > <windsorsedge@ozemail.com.au> > > Guys > I have a standard Russian VHF in my 52 > That receives but has stopped transmitting.Sounds like carrier wave only, > have tried reracking but still no good > Tim in Oz > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis > Savarese > Sent: Wednesday, 6 September 2006 9:41 PM > To: yak-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > > --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" > <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com> > > Scooter, > Why don't you try the simple test I mentioned yesterday? Put a wrap of > duct > > tape on one of the blades about 2" in from the tip and run the engine. If > it improves, you've got the right blade. If it gets worse, remove the > tape > on that blade and put a wrap on the other blade and run it. Regardless of > which blade it is, add a wrap at a time until the vibration becomes > acceptable. You can add spray paint to the back side of the blade once > you > find out which blade needs additional weight. Somewhat crude, but it > works > and it's a very simple test. > Dennis > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> > To: <yak-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:07 PM > Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > > >> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> >> >> Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I've checked just about >> everything mentioned. I ran it again today and I can quantify the >> vibration a bit better. It seems to have several resonant frequencies. >> At 44% the instrument panel shakes to a blur. At 50% the pilot shakes >> (and everything blurs). It is substantial. >> >> I am again thinking it must be the prop. I pulled all the plugs, cleaned >> them and did a "finger" check on compression. Seemed fine (nothing stuck >> open). >> >> At this point I'm thinking the next step is to make a jumbo prop wrench, >> take the blades off, clean out the oil, grease, etc. and replace the >> seals > >> while i'm at it. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59798#59798 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > __________ NOD32 1.1742 (20060906) Information __________ > > This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. > http://www.eset.com > > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 05:31:56 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
    --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil> Here are a couple of questions: 1. When you transmit do you have sidetone? Excuse me, that is a military term... When you transmit, can you hear your own voice in the headphones as you transmit? Is your "sidetone" normal or very weak? 2. I am assuming that you listened in on another radio in another airplane and you heard a carrier with no microphone audio? Yes, no? 3. Try more than one frequency. Make sure you try another frequency where each knob on the frequency selector has moved. On the receiving radio, try moving one click to each side of the frequency that is being transmitted on and see if you hear any audio at all. 4. Lastly... There is an adjustment on the front of the Balken 5 R/T that adjusts transmit modulation level. You might try cranking that up a tad and seeing what happens. Actually, there are TWO adjustments on the front of the radio. One is for the modulation level, and umm... Darn, I forget what the other one is for! I'll have to check on the schematics and get back to you. If all else fails, I have a working Balken 20 for sale. You really need to look for the Balken 5, which is more than likely what you have. The Balken 20 is a high power version of the one typically found in the 52, and it has four times the power. Meaning, it ain't cheap. :-) Try George Coy and see if he is selling any radios too... He usually has Balken 5's for around $450 or so. Best of luck, Mark Bitterlich -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim & Jessie Windsor Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2006 19:55 Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration --> Yak-List message posted by: "Tim & Jessie Windsor" --> <windsorsedge@ozemail.com.au> Guys I have a standard Russian VHF in my 52 That receives but has stopped transmitting.Sounds like carrier wave only, have tried reracking but still no good Tim in Oz -----Original Message----- From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese Sent: Wednesday, 6 September 2006 9:41 PM Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration --> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com> Scooter, Why don't you try the simple test I mentioned yesterday? Put a wrap of duct tape on one of the blades about 2" in from the tip and run the engine. If it improves, you've got the right blade. If it gets worse, remove the tape on that blade and put a wrap on the other blade and run it. Regardless of which blade it is, add a wrap at a time until the vibration becomes acceptable. You can add spray paint to the back side of the blade once you find out which blade needs additional weight. Somewhat crude, but it works and it's a very simple test. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 8:07 PM Subject: Yak-List: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration > --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> > > Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I've checked just about > everything mentioned. I ran it again today and I can quantify the > vibration a bit better. It seems to have several resonant frequencies. > At 44% the instrument panel shakes to a blur. At 50% the pilot shakes > (and everything blurs). It is substantial. > > I am again thinking it must be the prop. I pulled all the plugs, cleaned > them and did a "finger" check on compression. Seemed fine (nothing stuck > open). > > At this point I'm thinking the next step is to make a jumbo prop wrench, > take the blades off, clean out the oil, grease, etc. and replace the seals > while i'm at it. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=59798#59798 > > > __________ NOD32 1.1742 (20060906) Information __________ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:57:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Prop seal replacement and subsequent vibration
    From: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net>
    --> Yak-List message posted by: "Scooter" <yakk52@verizon.net> This is sort of interesting. I calculated the resonant frequency of a Yak-52 (assuming it is much like a big violin string) and came up with the following: The resonant frequency of a yak: fn = nv/2L n = harmonic (1,2,3...) v = speed of sound (in steel) = 16,000 ft/sec L = length = 25.42 ft f1 = 314 hz f2 = 628 hz (32% rpm) f3 = 942 hz (49% rpm) f4 = 1256 hz (65% rpm) f5 = 1570 hz (80% rpm) Note: at 50% rpm the engine rpm is 1475. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60115#60115




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