Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:19 AM - Re: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting (Roger Kemp)
2. 07:54 AM - Re: Airplane wax (Barry Hancock)
3. 08:25 AM - More wax (Barry Hancock)
4. 08:36 AM - Re: Airplane wax (Yakjock)
5. 01:46 PM - Re: Airplane wax (Roger Kemp)
6. 03:42 PM - Re: Airplane wax (Ben Marsh)
7. 08:42 PM - Oxygen Tank Explosion, Hydrotesting (Mike Bell)
8. 10:41 PM - Desert Thunder III (Barry Hancock)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting |
Cliff,
>From talking to Rob Kent, it is not complete. Seems our aircraft were kind of
hand built and each one was somewhat different in each way. Later today, I will
try to get you what he sent me in addition to what I had.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: netmaster15@juno.com
Sent: 9/18/2006 10:06:44 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting
Doc,
Schematic received, excellent, thanks very much.
Cliff
-- "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com> wrote:
Cliff,
Here is a emial version that is the same as the hardcopy that I have. Hope it helps.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: netmaster15@juno.com
Sent: 9/13/2006 11:21:27 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting
Doc,
I would be most appreciative if you would fax me a wiring diagram of the electrical
system. My fax is : 1 828 321 0878. Thankyou.
Cliff
-- "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com> wrote:
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Good discription Mark, I am not an electrician/avionics guy by any sense of
the word. Took in physics and remember a thimb full. I will send you the
wiring diagram I currently have courtesy of Tim Gagnon. Credit be given
where due. Send me a fax # offline and when I get back to the office
tomorrow.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil&g t;.
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 9/12/2006 4:18:49 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>
> Harry, I do not have a 50 electrical diagram (Doc if you have one, I'd
> dearly love to get a copy), but I have traced out a lot of it, and most
> of what I have seen duplicates the 52 in many ways. I am going to need
> the full electrical&nbs p;diagram to help you out further, but I have a lot of
> comments to make here. Also, please excuse my lack of tact, I am an
> EA-6B Avionics Tech Rep by profession and I work on problems like this
> ALL the time. There are a few general rules that you always go by when
> dealing with this type of nonsense.
>
> A. Always suspect what was last worked on as the FIRST place you should
> look for a problem. If human hands have recently been involved anywhere
> near wiri ng, and you now have an electrical problem that you never had
> before... GO WHERE PEOPLE RECENTLY PUT THEIR HANDS AND LOOK THERE FIRST.
> You'd be amazed at how often that rule is ignored out of simple ego, but
> boy is it accurate!
>
> B. If you are dealing with a system of wires, switches, lights, etc.,
> always suspect any part that moves, like switches, as being the first
> thing you check for failure.
>
> C. NEVER EVER reset a circuit breaker more than once if it pops.& nbsp; You
> NEVER, EVER EVER troubleshoot a problem like this by pulling this wire,
> or that wire, and then turning on the breaker again to see if it pops.
> There are many reasons for this, but the most obvious is that you can
> easily end up starting an electrical fire, and please keep in mind where
> the fuel tanks are in your YAK-50. For example, let's say a wire was
> arcing out against your fuel tank. Not hard to imagine since it is only
> inches away from your wiring. Eac h time you reset that breaker you get
> an ARC. Eventually the arc actually cuts a hole in the tank and now you
> have gas fumes adding into the mess. Explosion, fire, you name it. You
> can also generate a wiring fire, even without gas involved. Bottom
> line, stop doing that and never do it again... Please. Anyone that says
> I am wrong in this regard is an idiot.... Avoid them.
>
> Ok. So you now ask... How do I troubleshoot this problem WITHOUT doing
> that? The answer requires you to have a grasp of the basics of
> electrically, which you admitted that you do not have, but here we go, I
> am going to teach you one trick now and anyone else who bothers to read
> this.
>
> You did exactly the right thing when you took the wires off the circuit
> breaker/switch. You need to get an electrical meter and learn how to
> read DC VOLTS with it. It's pretty easy. Set it to DC VOLTS, hook the
> black wire to aircraft& nbsp;ground (any good bonding point in the aircraft
> itself to the frame) and then use the red wire to touch a wire and read
> voltage. Turn on your electrical master.. The one marked BATTERY. Now
> look at the switch going to the gear. With the switch turned off, one
> side will have 28 volts on it, and the other side will have NO volts on
> it. The side with NO volts on it will be the one we want to mess with
> first. In this case, you have already done that pa rt... You have
> located a wire that if you pull it off, it stops the problem. Luckily
> nothing that we know of blew up in the process. God loves you.
>
> What you need to do now is to learn how to troubleshoot to the next
> step. One good way to accomplish this is by rigging the aircraft so
> that it limits the current draw to this wire. The wire that you found
> is going to a short circuit, and that is why the breaker is popping.
> You need to locate&nb sp;some 28 volt light bulbs. If you do not have any, I
> will send you some. Let me know. You get about a 25 watt bulb rated at
> 28 volts (again, I will be glad to give you as many as you need). You
> solder two wires to this light bulb. Now, hook one wire of the bulb (it
> does not matter which one) to the terminal on the switch. Hook the
> other wire soldered to the light bulb to the wire that you have hanging
> that used to connect to the switch.&nb sp;
>
> Now when you turn on your switch, your light bulb will come on, because
> you have a short to ground in the aircraft wiring SOMEPLACE. But the
> circuit breaker/switch will NOT blow anymore, because the light bulb
> that you just installed in series between the wire you pulled off, and
> the switch itself, will limit the current to ONE AMP (plus or minus a
> tiny bit). All the wiring and crap in the aircraft can handle one amp
> with ease. If you want to lower the amoun t of current, just use a
> smaller bulb... For example a 12 watt bulb would give you a maximum
> current draw of about 1/2 amp. Current in this case will be equal to
> the wattage of the bulb divided by the voltage.
>
> You can now start trying to find the problem by tracing and removing
> other wires, as you were doing before, or simply by jiggling things
> around.
>
> Some might recommend that instead of doing it this way, you simply use
> an OHM METER connected ;to your wire that you pulled OFF the switch.
> This will also work if you know exactly what you are doing, but the
> light bulb trick makes finding a problem like this easier and it is an
> ACTIVE versus a PASSIVE check. If the bulb is brightly lit, you have a
> short circuit involved. Which is of course what you DO have. When the
> bulb goes out, or gets very dim... You just located the problem.
>
> You need to be more detailed with your explanation if you could please.< BR>>
>
> There are NO SQUAT switches in the YAK-50. A SQUAT switch is one that
> closes when you LAND THE AIRPLANE and put weight on the landing gear.
> The YAK-50 does not have anything like that.
>
> Instead there are FOUR switches that control the landing gear lights on
> the 50. One switch for each light on the dash. There are two switches
> on the left side, and two switches on the RIGHT side. ONE SWITCH FOR
> EACH LIGHT! You are only seeing the switch&n bsp;back behind the gear
> actuator where the wheels go into the hole. There is ANOTHER switch
> that is located underneath a panel right behind the gear leg itself.
> The panel right behind that landing gear fiberglass shroud.
>
> I do not know of any electrical motors behind the instrument panel.
> There is of course the electrical inverter for the attitude indicator
> (if you still have it installed) behind the seat. At this point, I
> would not waste a lot of time looking for the weird noise... Since you
> already have enough other weird crap already happening.
>
> You took the fairings off the wing root(s) and have access to the wiring
> connections going out to the pitot probe and the switches. REMEMBER
> AGAIN... Two switches on each landing gear! Anyway, that is a good
> thing. You might want to do the same for the other side too, so that
> you can access that wiring, but I suspect the wiring short circuit is
> not out there.
>
> QUESTIONS:
>
> What h appens in the cockpit when you leave the instrument breaker OFF
> and just turn on the landing gear breaker?
> What happens when you turn on the instrument breaker and leave the
> landing gear breaker off?
>
> REALLY NEED TO KNOW THE ABOVE ANSWERS.
>
> What is obvious here is that when you apply voltage to wire 05-cw2-01 by
> connecting it to the switch and turning it on, the voltage through this
> wire is shorting to some other WIRE that it should not be doing. The
> ;problem is that this wire is also obviously the main voltage feed for
> the landing gear circuits. The voltage on this wire feeds to all four
> of the landing gear switches... The two UP switches and the two DOWN
> switches. Wires coming back from these switches then go to the light
> bulbs in the cockpit themselves and make them come on. So picture that
> in your mind.... Voltage comes out this wire (the one hooked to the
> switch), and someplace goes to a terminal board and splits to go& nbsp;out to
> all four switches. It then comes BACK from those switches and goes BACK
> into the instrument panel and to the lights themselves.
>
> Next, consider that you have had a problem on the LEFT side of the
> aircraft for quite some time. This has been a case where the landing
> gear DOWN switch has probably gone bad or is out of adjustment. Again,
> you need to locate that switch, because that is yet another problem,
> probably not related to this current mess.
>
> ; The short circuit you are dealing with is probably NOT in the wings.
> When you pressed the switch on the right landing gear, and then the
> light for the left gear lit up, this is not a case of a wire switched
> around, this is a case of some wires that are SHORTED TOGETHER.
>
> So some advice.
>
> When describing what switches you are pushing in the future, make sure
> you name them correctly. One is for right gear down and locked. One is
> for right gear UP and locked. Same thing for the left side. No squat
> switches ok?
>
> It appears that the wire that is shorted is one of the wires coming BACK
> from one of the switches TO the lights on the instrument panel. One of
> THOSE wires has shorted to another wire or wires causing all the other
> lights to come on. Most likely it is a short to the TEST SWITCH that
> causes all those other lights to come on. So to repeat, this is
> probably a dead short between&nbs p;one of the wires coming back from the
> landing gear position switches, that is shorted to the TEST switch
> WIRING.
>
> To repeat again, the way I would try to find this would be to pull the
> 05-CW2-01 wire off the switch as you already had done. The install the
> 28 volt light bulb with the wires connected to it in series. It will
> go: switch, wire, bulb, wire, then hooked to the 05-CW2-01 wire itself.
> In SERIES. You will then limit the current draw and will pose little
> to zero risk of blowing anything up any further. When you turn on the
> switch, this light will come on brightly. If you want, you can put
> plenty of wire on the bulb and remote it out of the cockpit so it does
> not get in the way. Have someone watch this bulb like a hawk. Now get
> your hands back in the wiring and start moving wires and wire bundles
> around... All over the place. When you see that light bulb start
> flickering wildly, you are on to p of the problem.
>
> A complete wiring diagram will be really handy. I do not have one.
> HOWEVER... This is not a case of a failed component. This is a case of
> some wires shorting together that were never meant to be. Wire
> CHAFFING, or rubbing under a clamp, etc.
>
> There is a very VERY small chance of a relay failing internally ...
> Literally falling apart inside, and shorting everything out that could
> cause this. This would be the light bulb TEST RELAY tha t is turned on
> with the light test push button, and we would definitely need the
> schematics to identify which relay this is. It is also possible that
> this relay got fried during this failure. So other than wiring, this
> would be the first component I would spot light for sure.
>
> Harry.. You're out on the west coast aren't you?
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
> P.s. Rewiring the aircraft is a do-able thing, but man oh man, it would
> cost a small fortune.&nbs p;
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harry
> Hirschman
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 14:38
> To: Yaklist Yaklist
> Subject: Yak-List: Yak-50 Electrical System Troubleshooting
>
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Harry Hirschman <hairball192@yahoo.com>
>
> All:
>
> I'd appreciate any assistance people are willing to provide to assist me
> in troubleshooting my Yak-50's electrical system.
>
> Symptoms:
> 1. Chronic problem of the left gear down indicator light on or off-on
> when landing gear is up (with two red up-and-locked lights also on)
>
> 2. Recently all annunciator lights (all four gear indicators,
> generator, Over-G, chip, all cells on fuel
> ladder) flashing on-off; Last flight all annunciator lights were on and
> steady (same look as pushing the press-to-test by the gear handle)
>
> 3. My electrical switches are labeled "Gear" and "Inst"; The "Inst"
> switch controls the proper reading of the fuel l adder (ie: it reads the
> correct amount of fuel with this switch on), generator annunciator light
> and engine instruments; The "gear" switch controls the landing gear
> position indicator lights, all the light cells on the fuel ladder (same
> as pushing the "k"
> button to test the fuel indicator), the chip light and the over-G light
>
> In troubleshooting over the weekend, I performed the following steps and
> got the following results:
>
> 1. Turned on the following switches: Battery, inst, and gear; All
>&n bsp;annunciator lights came on, I heard what I think is some kind of
> electrical motor wind up for a few seconds, then the "Gear"
> switch-breaker flipped itself off and the associated annunciator lights
> went off and the sound ceased
>
> 2. After cycling the switch a half dozen times with my head under the
> panel to try to locate the noise, the motor stopped coming on with the
> gear switch, but it continues to break to the off position after several
> seconds in the on position; There is&n bsp;about a 2 amp draw with the "gear"
> switch on as indicated by the aircraft guage; The noise was coming from
> behind the instrument panel, but I couldn't locate the component
>
> 3. There are two wires attached to the "gear" switch; Removed the wire
> labeled 05-CW1 and turned on the batt, inst and gear switches with the
> same result -- 2 amp draw and gear switch breaks to off after several
> seconds
>
> 4. Removed the wire labeled 05-CW2-01 and turned on the batt, inst and
> ; gear switches and now the gear switch does not break, the elec system
> remains on; The landing gear indicator lights, fuel ladder lights, chip
> light, and over-G light do not illuminate (proper fuel indication,
> generator light on, and engine instruments are powered) -- so the bad
> wire is this one, I think
>
> 5. Re-installed both wires and verified that the system fails in the
> same way as before
>
> 6. Friends manually held both landing gear position squat switches in
> the "gear -up" position and turned the electrical switches off with the
> same result -- Gear switch breaks to off after several seconds
>
> 7. Disconnected the left gear position squat switch at the bus bar in
> the wing root by removing the lower three of the four wires (I believe
> the top wire is for pitot heat) and turned on the batt, inst and gear
> switches -- GOT IT -- Same result as step 4 above -- Gear switch does
> not break, the elec system remains on with a right gear down gree n
> light; I'm fuzzy on this part, but I believe I did the push-to-test for
> the annunciator lights and all worked EXCEPT the chip light and over-G
> light
>
> 8. And then the plot thickens -- With the electrical system on,
> manually depressed the RIGHT landing gear squat switch -- The RIGHT gear
> down light went out and the LEFT gear up light went on (hopefully a
> simple crossed wire) AND got a 2.5 amp draw and the gear switch broke to
> the off position after several seconds
>
> Only two things scare me and both of them are electricity, so I wouldn't
> have been able to do any of this without the able help of some airport
> buds (Ken and John). I hope I've given those who know something about
> this enough information to narrow things down for me.
>
> I've got a couple of specific questions in addition to the overall
> recommendations I hope will be
> forthcoming:
>
> - What electrical component do you think was making the noise described
> in t roubleshooting steps 1 and 2?
>
> - It looks like there are separate parts for the left and right landing
> gear squat switches; Is that true?
>
> - From anyone out there has removed the entire Russian electrical system
> and rewired new, how much time and money did that take? Do you have a
> parts list for the new system?
>
> - Does anyone out there have an electrical diagram for the Yak-50?
>
> Many thanks in advance to everyone who's read this far and to those who
> ;take the time to respond.
>
> Regards,
> Harry
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
&======================== - The&np;Matronics List Features Navigator to
browse
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
On Sep 18, 2006, at 11:58 PM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
> Has anyone tried any of the new "NanoWaxes", or micro-particulate
> polishes?
Sir Demon of Speed,
Racer's Edge Aircraft Polish is slick as snot, easy to apply, and
only needs to be applied about once a year if the plane is hangared.
Works well enough for many of the racers at Reno....
So when do we get to see the gal all dolled up and ready for the dance?
Cheers,
Barry
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Yak-List message posted by: Barry Hancock <barry@flyredstar.org>
I forgot to mention another product I really like....Dry Wash by Aero
Cosmetics. You simply spray it on, even a dirty airplane, wipe it
off, and lightly buff the surface to a luster. Two guys can finish a
CJ in about 15 minutes. Then all you need is a California Duster to
wick off the dust for a perfectly clean and shiny airplane. They
also have a version that cuts oil, but I agree with SOB that the
Simple Green for Aircraft does a nice job on the oil...
My .02
Barry
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
Craig,
I use the Poly Glide from Sporty's. Easy to apply and you don't have to be
as clever as a Fox to polish it out. Can do a whole clean plane in about an
hour. Do not put it on over dirt or water marks. A light touch does fine.
I assume from your question that your airplane is now a work of art?
Pictures?
I agree that the new Simple Green is easy to use and really effective. The
best stuff I've ever used is Floway from Kano Labs. They also make Kroil,
the best penetrating oil I've seen.
Hal
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Airplane wax |
Another simple to use product is Bike Clean by Turtle Wax. Works on bugs and grease.
Spray it on and wipe it off. That fast.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: Yakjock
Sent: 9/19/2006 10:47:45 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Airplane wax
Craig,
I use the Poly Glide from Sportys. Easy to apply and you dont have to be as clever
as a Fox to polish it out. Can do a whole clean plane in about an hour.
Do not put it on over dirt or water marks. A light touch does fine. I assume
from your question that your airplane is now a work of art? Pictures?
I agree that the new Simple Green is easy to use and really effective. The best
stuff Ive ever used is Floway from Kano Labs. They also make Kroil, the best
penetrating oil Ive seen.
Hal
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Having just returned from Reno for the Races where I had occasion to
work
with the first and second place winners of Unlimited Gold and Silver
races,
I can tell all with some authority that the Aero Glaze product is a
superior
method of both cleaning and waxing a painted surface. Aero Glaze is
awesome
stuff.
As well, there was some excitement at the Races we all should make note
of.
Stu Eberhart's P-51 blew-up. No, I am not referring to the motor he
smoked,
but the oxygen bottle he over charged. He apparently had a low pressure
system, he pressurized to 1800 psi. Bang! Words to the wise: Pressure
check your pneumatic system. If it lets go in flight, your airplane
will
come apart and that will be bad. Just ask Stu Eberhart what he thinks
about
it.
Regards,
BHM
_____
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Airplane wax
Another simple to use product is Bike Clean by Turtle Wax. Works on bugs
and
grease. Spray it on and wipe it off. That fast.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: Yakjock <mailto:yakjock@msn.com>
Sent: 9/19/2006 10:47:45 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Airplane wax
Craig,
I use the Poly Glide from Sporty=12s. Easy to apply and you don=12t
have to be
as clever as a Fox to polish it out. Can do a whole clean plane in
about an
hour. Do not put it on over dirt or water marks. A light touch does
fine.
I assume from your question that your airplane is now a work of art?
Pictures?
I agree that the new Simple Green is easy to use and really effective.
The
best stuff I=12ve ever used is Floway from Kano Labs. They also make
Kroil,
the best penetrating oil I=12ve seen.
Hal
<>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oxygen Tank Explosion, Hydrotesting |
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Mike Bell" <yakflyr@comcast.net>
Ben mentioned the oxygen tank explosion at Reno. I was shooting video of his team's
gorgeous Grumman Tigercat when I heard the big boom. The picture below shows
what that does to a Mustang.
Jill and Carl at M-14P can now do your hydrotesting. The turnaround is fast and
they won't ruin your tanks using the wrong fittings.
--------
Mike Bell
Yak 52
Elk Grove, CA
yakflyr@comcastdotnet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62673#62673
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/reno_2006_008_e_314.jpg
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Desert Thunder III |
"The most fun I've had in an airplane in 100 years, if not ever" -
Blitz Fox
The time is quickly approaching for the much anticipated return of
the tactical flying environment to the skies of the California
desert...DESERT THUNDER III is only a month away. This is the
closest thing you'll get to real military flying....and all at less
than 4 G's.
IMPORTANT: Many people have assumed that they are not qualified for
this event because they do not have a tactical background, or are not
FAST qualified, or don't have a Commie warbird...this is NOT true!
ANYONE with the desire to participate will fill a necessary role and
have a blast doing it....or your money back!
Registration is still open...don't delay. Hotel reservations must be
made IMMEDIATELY in order to preserve our group rate of $119/night.
This is an excellent hotel and was enjoyed by all this spring - you
can double up to save on costs if you wish. Call 800-827-2946 for
reservations and mention Desert Thunder or Red Star for group rate.
Your mission orders will be sent to you in the weeks leading up to DT
III, so make sure to register now.
Cost of the event will depend on the number of participants...but
expect between $150 and $300 for pilots and half that for GIBs, which
covers the costs for training materials, etc., and our volunteer
instructors..without whom an event of this nature is simply not
possible! Contact Barry Hancock at barry@flyredstar.org for questions
and information. See you there!
Register HERE: http://www.flyredstar.org/T_EventDetail.aspx?ID=10
Fast facts:
-When: Oct. 26-29. Arrivals on the afternoon of the 26th with an
1800 welcome party and in-brief.
-Where: Thermal, CA. (KTRM)
-Number of aircraft registered so far: 14, including a number of
T-28's and T-34's. L-29/39's and other "heavy iron" welcome!
-Fuel discount negotiated
-5 lb. bags of flour (Mk. 5 Baker Boy) for CAS mission secured ;)
See you in the desert skies...and check six!
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|