Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:37 AM - Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... (Matt Dralle)
1. 04:44 AM - Re: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right. (A. Dennis Savarese)
2. 07:32 AM - Re: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right. (forrest johnson)
3. 03:05 PM - QS2B (doug sapp)
4. 11:23 PM - Re: Shinden33 Rough Running ()
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Subject: | Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response
has been very good, but we are behind last year in the number of people that have
made a Contribution and as a percentage of the total number of subscribers.
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right. |
For the Yak 52 guys, the QS-1 valve on the CJ6, which I believe is
located in the center belly of the CJ fuselage inside the large
inspection panel, is exactly the same as the Yak 52's brake reducing
valve located in the rear cockpit under the floor panel on the right
side of the control stick. The parts are interchangeable. So if your
52's brake reducing valve goes T.U., and you can't find one from the 52
parts suppliers, try our good friend Doug Sapp.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: ggg6@att.net
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right.
I'am not sure wheather this schmatic of the air system will come thur
on the site, but will try to forward it. It shows what and where the
QS-1 Valve is in the Sys.... Gary
-------------- Original message from KingCJ6@aol.com: --------------
Jim - for those of us without immediate access to the manual,
what/where is the "QS-1" valve?
Thanks, Dave
In a message dated 11/28/2006 4:57:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cjpilot710@aol.com writes:
Well I found out what the problem was. The QS-1 valve was the
culprit. It was full of rust and corruption. I started the search by
pressurizing the system with nitrogen to replenish the system tank since
it was to low for a start. In doing so I could hear air escaping from
somewhere in the belly. I traced it to the QS-1. I replaced it with
one I already had on the shelf. Bingo problem solved. Test flight with
some acro thrown in, showed all back to "normal".
I can replace the rubber seal in the valve and the steel springs
inside and she'll be put on the parts shelf, well oiled and greased in a
baggy.
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right. |
You dont have to replace the valve,overhaul with new seals from Sapp. Cost
is 12$ for the QS2.
very easy to do.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Laird" <dave@davelaird.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right.
>
> On the CJ6 the QS-1 is the brake pressure reducing valve... pull the
> brake handle and the cable feeds down under the front cockpit and pulls a
> lever attached to this valve... the air comes out of this and goes to the
> QS-2 differential braking valve. The position of the rudder pedals moves
> an arm on this valve which allows air to go to the left, both, or right
> brakes. Center the Pedals: air equally to both brakes. Full Left Pedal:
> air only to left brake, etc.
>
> I had a similar leak to Pappy's last month, but it was my QS-2, not my
> QS-1, that was going bad. My initial symptoms were loss of pressure
> during taxi and run-up... but ONLY if I had a lot of left pedal in... if
> I taxied/turned to the right I had no loss of pressure! Well, maybe a
> small loss.... afterall....we do kind of dance on the pedals on these
> birds, so any jab of left rudder would leak some air out. At first I
> didn't notice it because by the time you did a run-up the gauge would be
> back to 55 again...but after a time, the problem got progressively worse
> until I DID notice it!
>
>
> I isolated the problem by opening the main air valve prior to start and
> pulling the brake handle and moving the rudder to full left deflection...
> you could hear the air go into the brake circuit...but unlike the right
> side, which would give a whoosh then the satisfying little "squeal"
> followed by silence when the right brake/line was full of air, the left
> side would go whoosh and it would keep gushing air out of the valve as
> long as you had left rudder held in...if you held it in long enough, all
> air from the main system would be exhausted in this manner.
> You'd hear it under your seat, because that is where the sucker lives!
> If you centered the rudder amidship, or pushed right rudder, the nasty
> hissing sound would go away.
> I then opened up the access panel and with a helper, could feel the air
> coming out of the QS-2's front side.
> So I bought a new unit ( actually a QS-2B) from Doug, installed it and
> all is well.
>
> Dave Laird
> N63536 1983 CJ-6A "Betty"
> Dallas
>
>
>
Message 3
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Dennis and all,
The QS2B is the very latest version of the QS2. Used in CJ's 2000 and
later year models. I have not had a reason to pull one apart yet but
they look like a somewhat improved version. Bolt up is identical.
Also, just got in a shipment from China which has a few landing lights
in it. First come first served.
1.. Landing light bulbs
2.. QS2B diff brake valves
3.. nose wheel tires and tubes
4.. Main air tanks
5.. Factory new 285 hp carburetors
6.. QDF-1 start solenoid valves
7.. GKY-5 heated pitots
8.. BYQ80-1A air pressure gauge
9.. Main wheel assemblies
10.. QSF-6A main and emergency air valve
11.. Nose gear incline brace
12.. Brake drums
13.. Brake pads
14.. New cowling
15.. New wing panels L&R
16.. New ailerons
17.. New main gear legs
18.. New J9-G1 propellers and blades
19.. New V530 blades
20.. Manifold pressure gauges
21.. 3/1 gauges
22.. Yak an CJ heavy insulated cowling blankets
23.. Wing walk roll (allows mechanic to walk on right side of stub
wing/fuse without damage)
24.. Lower and upper gear door hardware
25.. Oil tanks
26.. New rudders
Please give me a call @ 509-826-4610 or contact me OFF LIST.
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Dennis Savarese
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 4:43 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right.
For the Yak 52 guys, the QS-1 valve on the CJ6, which I believe is
located in the center belly of the CJ fuselage inside the large
inspection panel, is exactly the same as the Yak 52's brake reducing
valve located in the rear cockpit under the floor panel on the right
side of the control stick. The parts are interchangeable. So if your
52's brake reducing valve goes T.U., and you can't find one from the 52
parts suppliers, try our good friend Doug Sapp.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: ggg6@att.net
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Hmmmmmmmmm That ain't right.
I'am not sure wheather this schmatic of the air system will come
thur on the site, but will try to forward it. It shows what and where
the QS-1 Valve is in the Sys.... Gary
-------------- Original message from KingCJ6@aol.com:
--------------
Jim - for those of us without immediate access to the manual,
what/where is the "QS-1" valve?
Thanks, Dave
In a message dated 11/28/2006 4:57:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cjpilot710@aol.com writes:
Well I found out what the problem was. The QS-1 valve was the
culprit. It was full of rust and corruption. I started the search by
pressurizing the system with nitrogen to replenish the system tank since
it was to low for a start. In doing so I could hear air escaping from
somewhere in the belly. I traced it to the QS-1. I replaced it with
one I already had on the shelf. Bingo problem solved. Test flight with
some acro thrown in, showed all back to "normal".
I can replace the rubber seal in the valve and the steel springs
inside and she'll be put on the parts shelf, well oiled and greased in a
baggy.
Message 4
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Subject: | Shinden33 Rough Running |
Yup - all cylinders were 69+/80
S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry Lewis
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 3:36 PM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Shinden33 Rough Running[LashBack]
Did you run a compression test on these three cylinders?
Terry Lewis
----- Original Message -----
From: shinden33@earthlink.net
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Shinden33 Rough Running[LashBack]
Dennis,
We've done all tests/run-ups on both mags and each mag separately
with identical results. I did pull the cap on the left mag and checked
everything that you mentioned below and checked out good. It would have to
be spectacular luck (good or bad your choice of words) to have identical
ignition failures on both mags at the same time or to have the time go out
the same amount. Unless of course, there is some form of crossover I am not
aware of. Thanks for the advice though.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 4:47 AM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Shinden33 Rough Running[LashBack]
You did not say you tried isolating the problem to one mag or the
other? Have you looked inside the magnetos under the mag caps and checked
for adequate lubrication on the cam? Also look for obvious binding at the
points. Verify the point gap is between .25 mm and .35 mm or .010 to .14.
Ideally, .3 mm or .012. Look inside the mag cap for carbon tracks. Gary's
suggestion is also very sound and highly recommended. Check the timing on
both mags. Let me know what you did or found.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: ggg6@att.net
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:16 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Shinden33 Rough Running[LashBack]
Have you checked the spark plug leads with a high tension lead
tester, it sounds like the leads may be breaking down under a load... Gary
-------------- Original message from "Scott T Glaser (E-mail
2)" <shinden33@earthlink.net>: --------------
Thanks for the advice guys. I've tried everything short of
installing the plug kit. I'm not sure that's the issue.
The roughness seems to be getting worse & I did discover
using a laser thermometer and the WD40 test that the #5, 7 and 9 cylinders
seem not to be firing. We measured the temps of the exhaust stacks just
after shut down and all were 220+ deg except those three which were 112ish.
We also did the WD40 test (sprayed WD40 on the exhaust just aft of each
cylinder). Again it showed that these 3 cylinders were not operating
properly (WD40 did not vaporize). I have pulled and checked all the plugs,
checked the left mag (another suspected problem), checked all the wires,
checked the fine fuel filter, checked the carb fuel filter, compression
checked all the cylinders (all 69+/80) and have not found the problem. I've
consulted with local mechanics who seem to be out of ideas. I'm about ready
to call in an M14 mechani c.&nbs p; Let me know if anyone has any
suggestions.
Scott
8252
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 5:36 AM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Shinden33 Rough Running
[LashBack]
The fine fuel filter is the black canister above the
yellow sphere on the right side of the firewall. On the bottom side of the
black canister is a 27 mm nut, usually safety wired. Remove the 27 mm nut
and extract the fuel screen. It will be a little tight coming out. Clean
the screen with a tooth brush and be sure to inspect the inside of the cap
you removed for debris. Make very sure the small rubber O-ring is on the
top end of the screen when it comes out and when it goes back in.
The American Champion REL37B's are not the plugs in the
conversion kit. If you'd like to read about the conversion kit, go to my
web site, www.yak-52.com, and click on the MODIFICATIONS button, then click
the PLUG CONVERSION button. Or click on the link on the home page. By
comparison, the plugs in the conversion kit will cost you about $2 per plug
when you have to replace them. ONE Champion REL37B will cost almost as much
as 18 plugs. The kits have been shipped all over the world and I have kits
in stock.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Shinden33
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Shinden33 Rough Running
[LashBack]
To all ye salesman - already have the american plugs.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Working on the load testing of the system. Where is the
fine fuel filter?
S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of MICHAEL ROEHR
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 5:08 AM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: Yak-List: Shinden33 Rough [LashBack] Running
[LashBack]
Suggest you also check the fine fuel filter and clean
if necessary. The spark plug conversion is definitely the way to go
regardless of this problem.
Mike Roehr
beach@digitalexp.com
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