Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:38 AM - Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 (JN(Canada))
2. 07:20 AM - Re: Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 (ByronMFox@aol.com)
3. 08:57 AM - Re: Sun N Fun.. Whos going??? (Yak52w@aol.com)
4. 09:21 AM - 50 Tail wheel shimmy (flir47)
5. 10:52 AM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Roger Kemp)
6. 11:08 AM - Re: Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 (Doug Sapp)
7. 11:26 AM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (flir47)
8. 11:30 AM - EMS (Jay Land)
9. 11:49 AM - Re: EMS (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
10. 11:58 AM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
11. 12:00 PM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
12. 12:05 PM - Re: Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Roger Kemp)
13. 12:08 PM - Re: EMS (Roger Kemp)
14. 12:27 PM - Re: EMS (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
15. 12:31 PM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Jan Mevis)
16. 01:17 PM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (flir47)
17. 01:42 PM - YAK-50. tailwheel (Roger Kemp)
18. 03:01 PM - Re: Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
19. 03:11 PM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
20. 06:45 PM - Re: Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Roger Kemp)
21. 09:21 PM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Jan Mevis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 |
Hi All,
Good news. I have met the boss at Nanachang Manufacturer and asked if they can
make some stainless exhaust for me. I got a good deal. If I can order over 20
sets, the price will be only $1100 per set, which is great that everyone can afford
to upgrade to stainless exhaust system. Anyone interested please contact
me offlist at info@jntrading.com.
Thanks
Andrew Zheng
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 |
In a message dated 4/16/2007 12:39:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
andrewzheng@shaw.ca writes:
I got a good deal. If I can order over 20 sets, the price will be only $1100
per set,
You've got to love this guy. Despite his deplorable record of performance,
he keeps on seeking the greater fool. ...Blitz
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Sun N Fun.. Whos going??? |
3 aircraft are arriving on Monday from Spruce Creek
Tim Stevens
Tom Renyolds
Phil cogan
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
If so what is the silver bullet?
--------
You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
Message 5
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| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Jack the tail up. Check 6 things as follows;
1) lateral movement (play) in the vertical strut. The shim on the mounting
bolt that goes thru it to support the entire assembly attaching the shaft
to the fusalage can be worn.
2) take the fork with the tailwheel locked and try to rotate it from side
to side (left and right). If it will rotate slightly, check the shim tab
that goes into shaft of the strut. this tab is right above the neck of the
fork. It looks something like rectanglar nail head like the kind used to
hold rails in the 1800's togather for lack of a better way to discribe it.
3) Check the locking pin as it slides down into the metal ring on the shaft
of the fork. Does it have lateral play. Does it completely lock?
4) What shape are your tailwheel bearings in? You will have to pull the
wheel off the assembly to check those. Are the races smooth or pitted. How
old is the grease that is in them.
5) Is the wheel collar nut tight (but not so tight as to impeed the free
rotation of the tire.) This has nothing to do with shimmy, but is the
collar nut safety wired?
6) What shape is your rear wheel tire in? Scuffed, worn, out of round. Does
the tailwheel make grinding noises when spun? Is it properly inflated?
This has nothing to do with shimmy but it will make the tailwheel bounce if
it is not properly inflated. That is the aft strut shock absorber. It also
will contribute to fore/aft play in the tailwheel if the bearings in the
shaft and aft cap (where it mounts to the aft bulkhead) are worn. Combine
the worn bearing (aft shock absorber cap/bulkhead mount) with a worn shim
on the main bolt that mounts the vertical tailwheel shaft to the empanage
and you get a tailwheel assembly that will just flop around in any
direction when push, pulled or rotated. That gets your attention too.
Hope this helps. I will send you the excellent article that Tom Johnson did
on the tail wheel assembly. It did a better job than our handbook did on
sorting out tailwheel issues.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: flir47 <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 11:37:28 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
> Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
>
> If so what is the silver bullet?
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 |
Geeze Andrew buy the dam exhaust yourself, put them in stock and if your
price is good folks will buy them. It's that simple, don't ask the
community to pre pay or pre order just because you don't have faith in
the market or your ability to sell the product in the long term. I stock
this same exhaust along with over 700 other line items for the CJ6, all
in stock and on the shelf because I have made the commitment and have
faith in the longevity of the community at large. I don't mean to be
rude or argumentative, or come off sounding like competition is not good
for everyone, it is good, but IMOH you need to either step up and make
the investment, stock the parts,and make a full time commitment to the
community or not offer it at all. To make a offer like this only causes
more problems for those of us who are attempting to maintain a full
range of parts for CJ owners,and in the end will only serve to
discourage us from stocking the hard to get or seldom needed parts. It
would be a sad day indeed if the only way we could support our aircraft
would be to wait 90 to 120 days for hard to find parts to arrive from
China. Try buying just one of anything from China,it won't happen. Yes,
stocking parts cost money, and yes if you don't stock many parts you can
sell the bread and butter items cheaper than I can. You might think that
is smart business, but if you stop to think about it, it is really
contrary to your primary business which is selling aircraft. If the new
owners of your aircraft cannot find the small hard to find items when
they are AOG, your (and for that matter,our) aircraft will soon fall
from the favor they now enjoy. I'm gonna stop now, this is turning into
a rant and I try not to do that on the list.
All just one mans opinion,
Always Yakin,
Doug
JN(Canada) wrote:
>
>Hi All,
>
>Good news. I have met the boss at Nanachang Manufacturer and asked if they can
make some stainless exhaust for me. I got a good deal. If I can order over 20
sets, the price will be only $1100 per set, which is great that everyone can
afford to upgrade to stainless exhaust system. Anyone interested please contact
me offlist at info@jntrading.com.
>
>Thanks
>
>Andrew Zheng
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Thanks DOC!!!!!! You da man!
--------
You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107346#107346
Message 8
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Has anyone had any luck hooking up an EMS engine monitor (such as the Dynon)
to an M14? I know it only monitors 6 cylinders, but any other issues with
the other connections (oil pressure, etc..)
Thanks,
Jay
Message 9
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Hubie Tolson just hooked up a 9 cylinder CHT to his M-14, along with a
really slick 4 in one gage that does all our current 3 in one does, but
also adds manifold pressure. He put in all new senders for this stuff,
and it opened up a lot of panel space.
Hubie can be reached at: Hmm... It's either:
hubie@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com or tolson@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Land
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 14:32
Subject: Yak-List: EMS
Has anyone had any luck hooking up an EMS engine monitor (such as the
Dynon) to an M14? I know it only monitors 6 cylinders, but any other
issues with the other connections (oil pressure, etc..)
Thanks,
Jay
Message 10
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| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
These are all good things Doc, and well worth mentioning.
However, what I have found to be the biggest contributor to tail wheel
shimmy is simply that the tail wheel is NOT LOCKED when you touch down.
In a lot of YAK-50's, as soon as you take off and for any reason push
the stick forward, the tail wheel will unlock and then it will COCK off
to one side in flight. When you go to land, the pin is not in the hole
and the tail wheel will start a very violent swing back and forth and
then will suddenly STOP as you get slow enough for the locking pin to
drop into the hole.
None of the steps you have listed below will stop this.
The only solution I found was to re-design the point where the tail
wheel releases with the stick. I wrote an article on exactly how to do
that some years ago, and I think Tom might have published it again from
time to time. He also has done a good job accumulating a lot of
information others have written, along with what he has discovered
himself.
In my 50, I have it now where the control stick has to be pushed ALL the
way forward... I mean to the limit... Before it will unlock the tail
wheel. This means it is kept locked for the entire flight and then
LANDS with it locked. MAJOR shimmy is now gone... Very minor stuff is
still there, but it is caused by the issues you have explained below.
If anyone wants to know how to go about doing this, send me a line and I
will dig up the article and send it again, or I can explain it person to
person.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 13:52
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Jack the tail up. Check 6 things as follows;
1) lateral movement (play) in the vertical strut. The shim on the
mounting bolt that goes thru it to support the entire assembly attaching
the shaft to the fusalage can be worn.
2) take the fork with the tailwheel locked and try to rotate it from
side to side (left and right). If it will rotate slightly, check the
shim tab that goes into shaft of the strut. this tab is right above the
neck of the fork. It looks something like rectanglar nail head like the
kind used to hold rails in the 1800's togather for lack of a better way
to discribe it.
3) Check the locking pin as it slides down into the metal ring on the
shaft of the fork. Does it have lateral play. Does it completely lock?
4) What shape are your tailwheel bearings in? You will have to pull the
wheel off the assembly to check those. Are the races smooth or pitted.
How old is the grease that is in them.
5) Is the wheel collar nut tight (but not so tight as to impeed the
free rotation of the tire.) This has nothing to do with shimmy, but is
the collar nut safety wired?
6) What shape is your rear wheel tire in? Scuffed, worn, out of round.
Does the tailwheel make grinding noises when spun? Is it properly
inflated?
This has nothing to do with shimmy but it will make the tailwheel bounce
if it is not properly inflated. That is the aft strut shock absorber. It
also will contribute to fore/aft play in the tailwheel if the bearings
in the shaft and aft cap (where it mounts to the aft bulkhead) are worn.
Combine the worn bearing (aft shock absorber cap/bulkhead mount) with a
worn shim on the main bolt that mounts the vertical tailwheel shaft to
the empanage and you get a tailwheel assembly that will just flop around
in any direction when push, pulled or rotated. That gets your attention
too.
Hope this helps. I will send you the excellent article that Tom Johnson
did on the tail wheel assembly. It did a better job than our handbook
did on sorting out tailwheel issues.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: flir47 <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 11:37:28 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
> Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
>
> If so what is the silver bullet?
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
It depends on what type of shimmy it is. What kind of landings are you
doing? Wheel or 3 point?
Is the shimmy very violent and then suddenly stops as you slow down?
Or is it bad to start and then decreases evenly with speed.
If it is the latter, then follow Doc's recommendations. If it is the
former, we need to talk.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of flir47
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 12:21
Subject: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
If so what is the silver bullet?
--------
You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Thanks but not really! Just had to deal with a case of it from the aft
shock absorber bushing, the strut shim, wheel bearings, and later having
to replace the aft shock absorber after the aluminum end cap (the aft
bearing mount) elongated. Am still looking for a replacement shock absorber
after a friend gave me his extra new one.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: flir47 <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 1:42:44 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
> Thanks DOC!!!!!! You da man!
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107346#107346
>
>
Message 13
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|
Got any 3x5 glossies of that setup?
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 2:01:38 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: EMS
>
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Hubie Tolson just hooked up a 9 cylinder CHT to his M-14, along with a
> really slick 4 in one gage that does all our current 3 in one does, but
> also adds manifold pressure. He put in all new senders for this stuff,
> and it opened up a lot of panel space.
>
> Hubie can be reached at: Hmm... It's either:
> hubie@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com or tolson@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Land
> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 14:32
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: EMS
>
>
>
> Has anyone had any luck hooking up an EMS engine monitor (such as the
> Dynon) to an M14? I know it only monitors 6 cylinders, but any other
> issues with the other connections (oil pressure, etc..)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay
>
>
Message 14
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Would not take much to go over and accomplish that. Remember though
that it is a Sukhoi 31 and the Panel setup on that puppy is very
different than our Yaks... Same instruments by and large though. What I
am REALLY impressed with is the autopilot install that he just had done.
There are two guys here in New Bern, and one Avionics Guru from Rocky
Mount NC, and when you get them all working as a team, some really nice
designs emerge. This has to be the best autopilot setup I have seen in
my life on a Suke. How it will WORK is another story... Don't know yet.
Hubie has also pulled out the Tach and the Tach Gen (do not pull the
Tach Gen unless you are damn sure of what you are doing) and has
replaced it with a electronic tach that also monitors mag status... Nice
instrument. It also pulls more weight out of the nose. Some issues
with RFI to the radio though.
Pictures to follow.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 15:08
Subject: RE: Yak-List: EMS
Got any 3x5 glossies of that setup?
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 2:01:38 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: EMS
>
> --> Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Hubie Tolson just hooked up a 9 cylinder CHT to his M-14, along with a
> really slick 4 in one gage that does all our current 3 in one does,
> but also adds manifold pressure. He put in all new senders for this
> stuff, and it opened up a lot of panel space.
>
> Hubie can be reached at: Hmm... It's either:
> hubie@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com or tolson@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Land
> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 14:32
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: EMS
>
>
>
> Has anyone had any luck hooking up an EMS engine monitor (such as the
> Dynon) to an M14? I know it only monitors 6 cylinders, but any other
> issues with the other connections (oil pressure, etc..)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Very interesting, Mark! I certainly would also prefer having the tailwheel
locked when landing. But does this mean that your tailwheel is also locked
during taxi ? This could be nasty if you have to make a relatively short
turn. Or am I (again) missing something? If you've got to unlock the
tailwheel by pushing the stick completely forward, then a taxi with tail
wind might also be rather awkward. I'd liked to get a copy of that article!
All the best,
Jan Mevis
RA2005K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: maandag 16 april 2007 20:58
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
These are all good things Doc, and well worth mentioning.
However, what I have found to be the biggest contributor to tail wheel
shimmy is simply that the tail wheel is NOT LOCKED when you touch down.
In a lot of YAK-50's, as soon as you take off and for any reason push
the stick forward, the tail wheel will unlock and then it will COCK off
to one side in flight. When you go to land, the pin is not in the hole
and the tail wheel will start a very violent swing back and forth and
then will suddenly STOP as you get slow enough for the locking pin to
drop into the hole.
None of the steps you have listed below will stop this.
The only solution I found was to re-design the point where the tail
wheel releases with the stick. I wrote an article on exactly how to do
that some years ago, and I think Tom might have published it again from
time to time. He also has done a good job accumulating a lot of
information others have written, along with what he has discovered
himself.
In my 50, I have it now where the control stick has to be pushed ALL the
way forward... I mean to the limit... Before it will unlock the tail
wheel. This means it is kept locked for the entire flight and then
LANDS with it locked. MAJOR shimmy is now gone... Very minor stuff is
still there, but it is caused by the issues you have explained below.
If anyone wants to know how to go about doing this, send me a line and I
will dig up the article and send it again, or I can explain it person to
person.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 13:52
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Jack the tail up. Check 6 things as follows;
1) lateral movement (play) in the vertical strut. The shim on the
mounting bolt that goes thru it to support the entire assembly attaching
the shaft to the fusalage can be worn.
2) take the fork with the tailwheel locked and try to rotate it from
side to side (left and right). If it will rotate slightly, check the
shim tab that goes into shaft of the strut. this tab is right above the
neck of the fork. It looks something like rectanglar nail head like the
kind used to hold rails in the 1800's togather for lack of a better way
to discribe it.
3) Check the locking pin as it slides down into the metal ring on the
shaft of the fork. Does it have lateral play. Does it completely lock?
4) What shape are your tailwheel bearings in? You will have to pull the
wheel off the assembly to check those. Are the races smooth or pitted.
How old is the grease that is in them.
5) Is the wheel collar nut tight (but not so tight as to impeed the
free rotation of the tire.) This has nothing to do with shimmy, but is
the collar nut safety wired?
6) What shape is your rear wheel tire in? Scuffed, worn, out of round.
Does the tailwheel make grinding noises when spun? Is it properly
inflated?
This has nothing to do with shimmy but it will make the tailwheel bounce
if it is not properly inflated. That is the aft strut shock absorber. It
also will contribute to fore/aft play in the tailwheel if the bearings
in the shaft and aft cap (where it mounts to the aft bulkhead) are worn.
Combine the worn bearing (aft shock absorber cap/bulkhead mount) with a
worn shim on the main bolt that mounts the vertical tailwheel shaft to
the empanage and you get a tailwheel assembly that will just flop around
in any direction when push, pulled or rotated. That gets your attention
too.
Hope this helps. I will send you the excellent article that Tom Johnson
did on the tail wheel assembly. It did a better job than our handbook
did on sorting out tailwheel issues.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: flir47 <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 11:37:28 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
> Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
>
> If so what is the silver bullet?
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m wrote:
> It depends on what type of shimmy it is. What kind of landings are you
> doing? Wheel or 3 point?
>
> Is the shimmy very violent and then suddenly stops as you slow down?
>
> Or is it bad to start and then decreases evenly with speed.
>
> If it is the latter, then follow Doc's recommendations. If it is the
> former, we need to talk.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> --
Mark
I just got the 50 and Im not used to 3 points yet. The nose up attitude takes some
getting used too. That being said. Wheel landings letting the tail settle
on its own at anything more than 10 mph I get a bad shimmy. After it drops below
10 mph or so it just stops. BTW: It trashed the tire on the flight home. Down
to the cords.. Bummer!
Now if I force the tail down with the stick (mind you if it doesnt leave the pavement
again) same shimmy until it slows down to 10 or so mph.
I will give it a worn parts inspection this week.
Where can I get a replacement tire??
Thanks for the help guys!
--------
You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107382#107382
Message 17
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| Subject: | YAK-50. tailwheel |
As promised. The list server rejected the first due to the size of the file.
This will get your attention when you touch down.
Doc
Roger "Doc" Kemp
viperdoc@mindspring.com
Aint no sound like a Radial
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
It is more than likely that your tail wheel is coming unlocked in flight, and then
is "canting" off to one side. Take a look at Doc's picture to see a very
vivid example of that very thing.
When you wheel land the aircraft... Which to many is much easier than 3 pointing
it .. You are going a lot faster. As you lower the tail to the ground gently,
the tail wheel is thrown violently to the other extreme, and it is more than
likely that the tail wheel locking pin will not have time to drop through the
hole. This means that the tail wheel will be slamming back and forth with
great speed and will tear the shit out of the tail wheel.
There are some things you can do as a pilot that will help. When you let the tail
wheel down, do so gently and then lift it back up again. If you are lucky,
it will lock and then you can lower it again without shimmy. Gently is the
key here, force is not needed.
The other alternative... And a better one as far as I am concerned, is to adjust
the linkages on the cable that control the locking pin, so that it stays in
the hole longer as you push in on the stick. This adjustment is NOT at the tail
wheel, but instead is underneath of the right horizontal stab's fiberglass
fairing. If you let the pin down too far, you can cause it to come right out
of the housing, and that is just as bad if not worse than what you have now.
The answer is to have the pin come down through the whole correctly, and then STOP..
But to only do that when the stick is all the way forward. To accomplish
that, you will need to move the cable end to the next hole back in the bolt
pattern to where it attaches to the elevator tube that connects the left horizontal
stab to the right horizontal stab. You then attach a wire SNUB to the
cable so that it will not go down too far. This snub will grip the cable itself
and come to a stop at the cable housing.
Pictures would help here.. But....
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of flir47
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 16:15
Subject: Yak-List: Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m wrote:
> It depends on what type of shimmy it is. What kind of landings are
> you doing? Wheel or 3 point?
>
> Is the shimmy very violent and then suddenly stops as you slow down?
>
> Or is it bad to start and then decreases evenly with speed.
>
> If it is the latter, then follow Doc's recommendations. If it is the
> former, we need to talk.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> --
Mark
I just got the 50 and IEUR(tm)m not used to 3 points yet. The nose up attitude
takes some getting used tooEUR. That being saidEUR. Wheel landings letting the
tail settle on itEUR(tm)s own at anything more than 10 mph EURI get a bad shimmy.
After it drops below 10 mph or so it just stops. BTW: It trashed the tire
on the flight home. Down to the cordsEUR.. Bummer!
Now if I force the tail down with the stick (mind you if it doesnEUR(tm)t leave
the pavement again) same shimmy until it slows down to 10 or so mph.
I will give it a worn parts inspection this week.
Where can I get a replacement tire??
Thanks for the help guys!
--------
You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107382#107382
Message 19
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| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Jan, I have simply changed the point at where the tail wheel unlocks and
where the control stick is when that happens.
In most 50's when you push slightly forward of neutral, the tail wheel
will unlock. Thus, if you wheel land it and push forward on the stick,
you just made SURE that the tailwheel was unlocked.
On mine, I changed this to where you have to push the control stick
every inch of the way FORWARD in order to unlock the tailwheel. So. You
can still unlock it for taxi as you mentioned, but unless you are doing
heavy inverted stuff like tumbles and so forth, it is doubtful that you
will ever push the stick ALL the way forward in flight ... That in turn
causes the tailwheel to unlock. The only time I actually UNLOCK the
tailwheel now is when I have to make a sharp turn.
Probably one of the best ideas I had, and never implemented, was to
simply move the cable away from the stick and attach it to something
else so that I could lock and unlock the tailwheel by a different device
... I.E. NOT THE STICK. This is how all the Sukhois do it anyway.
You are perfectly correct about the issue of now having to push the
stick all the way forward to unlock it when you are also dealing with a
tailwind. It IS rather awkward in that situation. But that situation
is not all that common. Landing is. This small issue is still yet
another reason to just put in a stand alone lever to control tail wheel
locking.
Mark
P.s. I'll look for the article Jan but you could also search the
archives and search for "tail wheel shimmy".
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 15:29
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Very interesting, Mark! I certainly would also prefer having the
tailwheel locked when landing. But does this mean that your tailwheel is
also locked during taxi ? This could be nasty if you have to make a
relatively short turn. Or am I (again) missing something? If you've got
to unlock the tailwheel by pushing the stick completely forward, then a
taxi with tail wind might also be rather awkward. I'd liked to get a
copy of that article!
All the best,
Jan Mevis
RA2005K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich,
Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: maandag 16 april 2007 20:58
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
--> Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
These are all good things Doc, and well worth mentioning.
However, what I have found to be the biggest contributor to tail wheel
shimmy is simply that the tail wheel is NOT LOCKED when you touch down.
In a lot of YAK-50's, as soon as you take off and for any reason push
the stick forward, the tail wheel will unlock and then it will COCK off
to one side in flight. When you go to land, the pin is not in the hole
and the tail wheel will start a very violent swing back and forth and
then will suddenly STOP as you get slow enough for the locking pin to
drop into the hole.
None of the steps you have listed below will stop this.
The only solution I found was to re-design the point where the tail
wheel releases with the stick. I wrote an article on exactly how to do
that some years ago, and I think Tom might have published it again from
time to time. He also has done a good job accumulating a lot of
information others have written, along with what he has discovered
himself.
In my 50, I have it now where the control stick has to be pushed ALL the
way forward... I mean to the limit... Before it will unlock the tail
wheel. This means it is kept locked for the entire flight and then
LANDS with it locked. MAJOR shimmy is now gone... Very minor stuff is
still there, but it is caused by the issues you have explained below.
If anyone wants to know how to go about doing this, send me a line and I
will dig up the article and send it again, or I can explain it person to
person.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 13:52
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Jack the tail up. Check 6 things as follows;
1) lateral movement (play) in the vertical strut. The shim on the
mounting bolt that goes thru it to support the entire assembly attaching
the shaft to the fusalage can be worn.
2) take the fork with the tailwheel locked and try to rotate it from
side to side (left and right). If it will rotate slightly, check the
shim tab that goes into shaft of the strut. this tab is right above the
neck of the fork. It looks something like rectanglar nail head like the
kind used to hold rails in the 1800's togather for lack of a better way
to discribe it.
3) Check the locking pin as it slides down into the metal ring on the
shaft of the fork. Does it have lateral play. Does it completely lock?
4) What shape are your tailwheel bearings in? You will have to pull the
wheel off the assembly to check those. Are the races smooth or pitted.
How old is the grease that is in them.
5) Is the wheel collar nut tight (but not so tight as to impeed the free
rotation of the tire.) This has nothing to do with shimmy, but is the
collar nut safety wired?
6) What shape is your rear wheel tire in? Scuffed, worn, out of round.
Does the tailwheel make grinding noises when spun? Is it properly
inflated?
This has nothing to do with shimmy but it will make the tailwheel bounce
if it is not properly inflated. That is the aft strut shock absorber. It
also will contribute to fore/aft play in the tailwheel if the bearings
in the shaft and aft cap (where it mounts to the aft bulkhead) are worn.
Combine the worn bearing (aft shock absorber cap/bulkhead mount) with a
worn shim on the main bolt that mounts the vertical tailwheel shaft to
the empanage and you get a tailwheel assembly that will just flop around
in any direction when push, pulled or rotated. That gets your attention
too.
Hope this helps. I will send you the excellent article that Tom Johnson
did on the tail wheel assembly. It did a better job than our handbook
did on sorting out tailwheel issues.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: flir47 <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 11:37:28 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
> Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
>
> If so what is the silver bullet?
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Mark,
If you can send me those pictures when you can. I had not thought of moving
the cable attachment to the lower bolt on the elevator attachment (for the
right and left).
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 5:14:14 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> It is more than likely that your tail wheel is coming unlocked in flight,
and then is "canting" off to one side. Take a look at Doc's picture to see
a very vivid example of that very thing.
>
> When you wheel land the aircraft... Which to many is much easier than 3
pointing it .. You are going a lot faster. As you lower the tail to the
ground gently, the tail wheel is thrown violently to the other extreme, and
it is more than likely that the tail wheel locking pin will not have time
to drop through the hole. This means that the tail wheel will be slamming
back and forth with great speed and will tear the shit out of the tail
wheel.
>
> There are some things you can do as a pilot that will help. When you let
the tail wheel down, do so gently and then lift it back up again. If you
are lucky, it will lock and then you can lower it again without shimmy.
Gently is the key here, force is not needed.
>
> The other alternative... And a better one as far as I am concerned, is to
adjust the linkages on the cable that control the locking pin, so that it
stays in the hole longer as you push in on the stick. This adjustment is
NOT at the tail wheel, but instead is underneath of the right horizontal
stab's fiberglass fairing. If you let the pin down too far, you can cause
it to come right out of the housing, and that is just as bad if not worse
than what you have now.
>
> The answer is to have the pin come down through the whole correctly, and
then STOP.. But to only do that when the stick is all the way forward. To
accomplish that, you will need to move the cable end to the next hole back
in the bolt pattern to where it attaches to the elevator tube that connects
the left horizontal stab to the right horizontal stab. You then attach a
wire SNUB to the cable so that it will not go down too far. This snub will
grip the cable itself and come to a stop at the cable housing.
>
> Pictures would help here.. But....
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of flir47
> Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 16:15
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
>
> mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m wrote:
> > It depends on what type of shimmy it is. What kind of landings are
> > you doing? Wheel or 3 point?
> >
> > Is the shimmy very violent and then suddenly stops as you slow down?
> >
> > Or is it bad to start and then decreases evenly with speed.
> >
> > If it is the latter, then follow Doc's recommendations. If it is the
> > former, we need to talk.
> >
> > Mark Bitterlich
> >
> >
> > --
>
>
> Mark
>
> I just got the 50 and IEUR(tm)m not used to 3 points yet. The nose up
attitude takes some getting used tooEUR. That being saidEUR. Wheel
landings letting the tail settle on itEUR(tm)s own at anything more than
10 mph EURI get a bad shimmy. After it drops below 10 mph or so it just
stops. BTW: It trashed the tire on the flight home. Down to the
cordsEUR.. Bummer!
>
> Now if I force the tail down with the stick (mind you if it
doesnEUR(tm)t leave the pavement again) same shimmy until it slows down to
10 or so mph.
>
> I will give it a worn parts inspection this week.
>
> Where can I get a replacement tire??
>
> Thanks for the help guys!
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107382#107382
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
Thanks, Mark! I'm going to implement your modification too.
As for tailwheel issues, the biggest problem I once had was the tailwheel
construction getting disconnected from the oleo due to improper
safety-wiring. The connecting rod could rotate almost freely in the oleo.
This happened after taxi and take-off from a rough gras field. Fortunately I
could make a very short emergency landing on another grass field.
Jan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: dinsdag 17 april 2007 0:11
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Jan, I have simply changed the point at where the tail wheel unlocks and
where the control stick is when that happens.
In most 50's when you push slightly forward of neutral, the tail wheel
will unlock. Thus, if you wheel land it and push forward on the stick,
you just made SURE that the tailwheel was unlocked.
On mine, I changed this to where you have to push the control stick
every inch of the way FORWARD in order to unlock the tailwheel. So. You
can still unlock it for taxi as you mentioned, but unless you are doing
heavy inverted stuff like tumbles and so forth, it is doubtful that you
will ever push the stick ALL the way forward in flight ... That in turn
causes the tailwheel to unlock. The only time I actually UNLOCK the
tailwheel now is when I have to make a sharp turn.
Probably one of the best ideas I had, and never implemented, was to
simply move the cable away from the stick and attach it to something
else so that I could lock and unlock the tailwheel by a different device
... I.E. NOT THE STICK. This is how all the Sukhois do it anyway.
You are perfectly correct about the issue of now having to push the
stick all the way forward to unlock it when you are also dealing with a
tailwind. It IS rather awkward in that situation. But that situation
is not all that common. Landing is. This small issue is still yet
another reason to just put in a stand alone lever to control tail wheel
locking.
Mark
P.s. I'll look for the article Jan but you could also search the
archives and search for "tail wheel shimmy".
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 15:29
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Very interesting, Mark! I certainly would also prefer having the
tailwheel locked when landing. But does this mean that your tailwheel is
also locked during taxi ? This could be nasty if you have to make a
relatively short turn. Or am I (again) missing something? If you've got
to unlock the tailwheel by pushing the stick completely forward, then a
taxi with tail wind might also be rather awkward. I'd liked to get a
copy of that article!
All the best,
Jan Mevis
RA2005K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich,
Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: maandag 16 april 2007 20:58
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
--> Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
These are all good things Doc, and well worth mentioning.
However, what I have found to be the biggest contributor to tail wheel
shimmy is simply that the tail wheel is NOT LOCKED when you touch down.
In a lot of YAK-50's, as soon as you take off and for any reason push
the stick forward, the tail wheel will unlock and then it will COCK off
to one side in flight. When you go to land, the pin is not in the hole
and the tail wheel will start a very violent swing back and forth and
then will suddenly STOP as you get slow enough for the locking pin to
drop into the hole.
None of the steps you have listed below will stop this.
The only solution I found was to re-design the point where the tail
wheel releases with the stick. I wrote an article on exactly how to do
that some years ago, and I think Tom might have published it again from
time to time. He also has done a good job accumulating a lot of
information others have written, along with what he has discovered
himself.
In my 50, I have it now where the control stick has to be pushed ALL the
way forward... I mean to the limit... Before it will unlock the tail
wheel. This means it is kept locked for the entire flight and then
LANDS with it locked. MAJOR shimmy is now gone... Very minor stuff is
still there, but it is caused by the issues you have explained below.
If anyone wants to know how to go about doing this, send me a line and I
will dig up the article and send it again, or I can explain it person to
person.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 13:52
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Jack the tail up. Check 6 things as follows;
1) lateral movement (play) in the vertical strut. The shim on the
mounting bolt that goes thru it to support the entire assembly attaching
the shaft to the fusalage can be worn.
2) take the fork with the tailwheel locked and try to rotate it from
side to side (left and right). If it will rotate slightly, check the
shim tab that goes into shaft of the strut. this tab is right above the
neck of the fork. It looks something like rectanglar nail head like the
kind used to hold rails in the 1800's togather for lack of a better way
to discribe it.
3) Check the locking pin as it slides down into the metal ring on the
shaft of the fork. Does it have lateral play. Does it completely lock?
4) What shape are your tailwheel bearings in? You will have to pull the
wheel off the assembly to check those. Are the races smooth or pitted.
How old is the grease that is in them.
5) Is the wheel collar nut tight (but not so tight as to impeed the free
rotation of the tire.) This has nothing to do with shimmy, but is the
collar nut safety wired?
6) What shape is your rear wheel tire in? Scuffed, worn, out of round.
Does the tailwheel make grinding noises when spun? Is it properly
inflated?
This has nothing to do with shimmy but it will make the tailwheel bounce
if it is not properly inflated. That is the aft strut shock absorber. It
also will contribute to fore/aft play in the tailwheel if the bearings
in the shaft and aft cap (where it mounts to the aft bulkhead) are worn.
Combine the worn bearing (aft shock absorber cap/bulkhead mount) with a
worn shim on the main bolt that mounts the vertical tailwheel shaft to
the empanage and you get a tailwheel assembly that will just flop around
in any direction when push, pulled or rotated. That gets your attention
too.
Hope this helps. I will send you the excellent article that Tom Johnson
did on the tail wheel assembly. It did a better job than our handbook
did on sorting out tailwheel issues.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: flir47 <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 11:37:28 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
> Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
>
> If so what is the silver bullet?
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
>
>
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