Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:05 AM - Re: Re: Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 (Craig Payne)
2. 04:55 AM - Re: EMS (Daniel Fortin)
3. 02:25 PM - Re: 50 Tail wheel shimmy (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Exhaust for CJ-6 |
>
>
>You've got to love this guy. Despite his deplorable record of performance,
>he keeps on seeking the greater fool. ...Blitz
>
Blitz.
I call it the "P.T. Barnum Principle"; sucker born every minute so just keep fishing.
Craig Payne
cpayne@joimail.com
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I heard through the grape vine that the owner of Dynon avionics just
purchased an M14 powered Murphy. One could expect a 9 cylinders EMS from
them in the near future... Plus for the D10A equipped airplanes, you only
need the sensors / computer and can read it directly from your EFIS.
>From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
><mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Yak-List: EMS Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 15:21:54 -0400
>
>MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
>Would not take much to go over and accomplish that. Remember though
>that it is a Sukhoi 31 and the Panel setup on that puppy is very
>different than our Yaks... Same instruments by and large though. What I
>am REALLY impressed with is the autopilot install that he just had done.
>There are two guys here in New Bern, and one Avionics Guru from Rocky
>Mount NC, and when you get them all working as a team, some really nice
>designs emerge. This has to be the best autopilot setup I have seen in
>my life on a Suke. How it will WORK is another story... Don't know yet.
>Hubie has also pulled out the Tach and the Tach Gen (do not pull the
>Tach Gen unless you are damn sure of what you are doing) and has
>replaced it with a electronic tach that also monitors mag status... Nice
>instrument. It also pulls more weight out of the nose. Some issues
>with RFI to the radio though.
>
>Pictures to follow.
>
>Mark Bitterlich
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
>Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 15:08
>To: yak-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Yak-List: EMS
>
>
>Got any 3x5 glossies of that setup?
>Doc
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
><mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> > To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> > Date: 4/16/2007 2:01:38 PM
> > Subject: RE: Yak-List: EMS
> >
> > --> Point,
>MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >
> > Hubie Tolson just hooked up a 9 cylinder CHT to his M-14, along with a
>
> > really slick 4 in one gage that does all our current 3 in one does,
> > but also adds manifold pressure. He put in all new senders for this
> > stuff, and it opened up a lot of panel space.
> >
> > Hubie can be reached at: Hmm... It's either:
> > hubie@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com or tolson@uhfdevelopmentgroup.com
> >
> > Mark Bitterlich
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Land
> > Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 14:32
> > To: yak-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Yak-List: EMS
> >
> >
> >
> > Has anyone had any luck hooking up an EMS engine monitor (such as the
> > Dynon) to an M14? I know it only monitors 6 cylinders, but any other
> > issues with the other connections (oil pressure, etc..)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 50 Tail wheel shimmy |
The problem is HOW you go about adjusting it so that you CAN move the
unlock position all the way forward.
If you take the fairing at the right horizontal stab root off, you will
be able to see the mechanism that controls the up and down movement of
the tail wheel locking pin. The adjustment that you see at this
location is there to control the DEPTH of the pins movement into the
locking ring hole located just above the tail wheel tire. Adjusting this
does not really solve the problem very well, because it is possible to
adjust the pin down too far, and then... You simply run out of pin and
it drops down through the locking pin hole with cable hanging on behind
it.
You will notice that the cable itself is connected to a BOLT on the
shaft that connects the left and right horizontal stabs together. If
you move the cable attachment to another bolt you can make it to where
the pin pulls out (upwards) ONLY when the stick is moved ALL the way
forward.
However, when you do this... You will notice that when you start to pull
the stick all the way AFT.... There will be so much extra slack in the
cable that the pin will drop DOWN and then OUT of the locking ring hole
To prevent THIS from happening, you have to build a cable snubber. This
can be something so simple as a bolt and a nut with a vertical groove
cut down the middle of the threaded portion of the bolt itself. Picture
that in your mind. You slide the cable through the vertical cut in the
bolt, and then when you screw on a nut.. The nut will PINCH the cable to
the top of the cut slot as you tighten it. You then position this
device on the cable so that you control how far DOWN the LOCKING PIN can
go as you pull the stick AFT.
A picture would really help here.
However, if you pull the fairing off, and then look at it as you read
this message, I am betting that it will become obvious.
I invented this method a few years ago, and have been using this lashup
ever since... It really stopped the tail wheel shimmy cold... At least
the VIOLENT type that just eats your tail wheels ALIVE. I used to get
just months out of the tail wheels, now I get years.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 0:20
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Thanks, Mark! I'm going to implement your modification too.
As for tailwheel issues, the biggest problem I once had was the
tailwheel construction getting disconnected from the oleo due to
improper safety-wiring. The connecting rod could rotate almost freely in
the oleo.
This happened after taxi and take-off from a rough gras field.
Fortunately I could make a very short emergency landing on another grass
field.
Jan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich,
Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: dinsdag 17 april 2007 0:11
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
--> Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Jan, I have simply changed the point at where the tail wheel unlocks and
where the control stick is when that happens.
In most 50's when you push slightly forward of neutral, the tail wheel
will unlock. Thus, if you wheel land it and push forward on the stick,
you just made SURE that the tailwheel was unlocked.
On mine, I changed this to where you have to push the control stick
every inch of the way FORWARD in order to unlock the tailwheel. So. You
can still unlock it for taxi as you mentioned, but unless you are doing
heavy inverted stuff like tumbles and so forth, it is doubtful that you
will ever push the stick ALL the way forward in flight ... That in turn
causes the tailwheel to unlock. The only time I actually UNLOCK the
tailwheel now is when I have to make a sharp turn.
Probably one of the best ideas I had, and never implemented, was to
simply move the cable away from the stick and attach it to something
else so that I could lock and unlock the tailwheel by a different device
... I.E. NOT THE STICK. This is how all the Sukhois do it anyway.
You are perfectly correct about the issue of now having to push the
stick all the way forward to unlock it when you are also dealing with a
tailwind. It IS rather awkward in that situation. But that situation
is not all that common. Landing is. This small issue is still yet
another reason to just put in a stand alone lever to control tail wheel
locking.
Mark
P.s. I'll look for the article Jan but you could also search the
archives and search for "tail wheel shimmy".
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 15:29
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Very interesting, Mark! I certainly would also prefer having the
tailwheel locked when landing. But does this mean that your tailwheel is
also locked during taxi ? This could be nasty if you have to make a
relatively short turn. Or am I (again) missing something? If you've got
to unlock the tailwheel by pushing the stick completely forward, then a
taxi with tail wind might also be rather awkward. I'd liked to get a
copy of that article!
All the best,
Jan Mevis
RA2005K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich,
Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: maandag 16 april 2007 20:58
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
--> Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
These are all good things Doc, and well worth mentioning.
However, what I have found to be the biggest contributor to tail wheel
shimmy is simply that the tail wheel is NOT LOCKED when you touch down.
In a lot of YAK-50's, as soon as you take off and for any reason push
the stick forward, the tail wheel will unlock and then it will COCK off
to one side in flight. When you go to land, the pin is not in the hole
and the tail wheel will start a very violent swing back and forth and
then will suddenly STOP as you get slow enough for the locking pin to
drop into the hole.
None of the steps you have listed below will stop this.
The only solution I found was to re-design the point where the tail
wheel releases with the stick. I wrote an article on exactly how to do
that some years ago, and I think Tom might have published it again from
time to time. He also has done a good job accumulating a lot of
information others have written, along with what he has discovered
himself.
In my 50, I have it now where the control stick has to be pushed ALL the
way forward... I mean to the limit... Before it will unlock the tail
wheel. This means it is kept locked for the entire flight and then
LANDS with it locked. MAJOR shimmy is now gone... Very minor stuff is
still there, but it is caused by the issues you have explained below.
If anyone wants to know how to go about doing this, send me a line and I
will dig up the article and send it again, or I can explain it person to
person.
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 13:52
Subject: RE: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
Jack the tail up. Check 6 things as follows;
1) lateral movement (play) in the vertical strut. The shim on the
mounting bolt that goes thru it to support the entire assembly attaching
the shaft to the fusalage can be worn.
2) take the fork with the tailwheel locked and try to rotate it from
side to side (left and right). If it will rotate slightly, check the
shim tab that goes into shaft of the strut. this tab is right above the
neck of the fork. It looks something like rectanglar nail head like the
kind used to hold rails in the 1800's togather for lack of a better way
to discribe it.
3) Check the locking pin as it slides down into the metal ring on the
shaft of the fork. Does it have lateral play. Does it completely lock?
4) What shape are your tailwheel bearings in? You will have to pull the
wheel off the assembly to check those. Are the races smooth or pitted.
How old is the grease that is in them.
5) Is the wheel collar nut tight (but not so tight as to impeed the free
rotation of the tire.) This has nothing to do with shimmy, but is the
collar nut safety wired?
6) What shape is your rear wheel tire in? Scuffed, worn, out of round.
Does the tailwheel make grinding noises when spun? Is it properly
inflated?
This has nothing to do with shimmy but it will make the tailwheel bounce
if it is not properly inflated. That is the aft strut shock absorber. It
also will contribute to fore/aft play in the tailwheel if the bearings
in the shaft and aft cap (where it mounts to the aft bulkhead) are worn.
Combine the worn bearing (aft shock absorber cap/bulkhead mount) with a
worn shim on the main bolt that mounts the vertical tailwheel shaft to
the empanage and you get a tailwheel assembly that will just flop around
in any direction when push, pulled or rotated. That gets your attention
too.
Hope this helps. I will send you the excellent article that Tom Johnson
did on the tail wheel assembly. It did a better job than our handbook
did on sorting out tailwheel issues.
Doc
> [Original Message]
> From: flir47 <me262pilot@comcast.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 4/16/2007 11:37:28 AM
> Subject: Yak-List: 50 Tail wheel shimmy
>
>
> Anyone had an issue with TW shimmy on a Yak 50???
>
> If so what is the silver bullet?
>
> --------
> You built and fly an RV.......BIG DEAL!!!!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107305#107305
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|