Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:47 PM - Compressor (Scooter)
2. 03:11 PM - Mike Richardson (Steven A Johnson)
3. 04:10 PM - Re: Compressor (Bill Tally)
Message 1
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Always a fun topic. So the issue is the compressor is a bit lethargic. Maybe
making about 40atm and taking some time to do it. After landing and using the
brakes a bit I might only have 35 when i put it away.
After running there's enough residual pressure to blow the snot out but maybe not
as much as before. If I add external air the pop-off operates up around 50atm.
I removed the cowl and checked hose couplings with the engine running and didn't
detect any leaks (I would guess that it would be noticeable with your hand clamped
over the fitting?). Haven't yet attempted to charge the pump-to-snot section
and check for leaks.
I'm thinking this will probably require a compressor rebuild and am assuming it
will most likely be the rings on the piston. Any chance I can pull the cylinder
and replace these rings or should I pull the entire assembly? Anyone know
roughly what a rebuild costs? Note that I've read the previous posts on removing
the compressor, etc. great advice and I'm not looking forward to it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128649#128649
Message 2
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Does anyone have an email address for Mike Richardson?
Steve Johnson
Yak 52, N9900X
0B5, MA, USA
413 522-1130 Cell
Message 3
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I claim to be no expert on this subject (there are many on this forum much more
knowledgeable than I am), but I went through exactly the same thing over the
course of a couple of months. We first noticed low or no air production and little
or no snot. After ruling out leaks, I cleaned the output valve by soaking
in solvent. That worked for a while but output soon fell off again. That
cycle was repeated a two or three times with the same result.
I was convinced that the compressor was bad and actually bought a rebuilt compessor.
I quickily learned that the job of replacing the compressor is a real beast
(to be very polite) and requires biblical patience and specialized tools.
I spent the better part of a day trying to figure out how how to access several
nuts that you can barely see, much less reach. That convinced me to try
the output valve one more time. This time, I completely disassembled it, cleaned
it and polished all the moving parts. I lubed everything well and put it
back in. To my amazement, it worked and has worked perfectly ever since. That
may not fix your problem, but it's much easier than fooling with the compressor.
You are getting some output, so you can rule out a sheared drive shaft. The problem
has to be either a leak, a problem with the output valve, or an internal
pump problem (internal valves, rings, etc.).
As you said, leaks should be ruled out first, especially around the banjo fittings
and the coiled tube going to the moisture collector. You can pressurize the
system with shop air by disconnecting the tube where it goes into the moisture
collector. Wrapping a few turns of black electrical tape around the nozzle
of an ordinary shop blow gun allowed us to get a good seal on the tube and to
pressurize the system. If there are no leaks, then go to the output valve.
Take it apart and make sure it's completely clean. Note how it goes back together;
it is possible to put the valve in upside down. Use new aluminum crush
washers everywhere, including the banjo fitting. Some have also suggested squirting
turbine oil or some simliar lube into the pump inlet (behind the filter)
to free up the internal valves.
The moral to the story is that pump replacement is a difficult task best avoided
if at all possible. If the compessor needs overhaul, it has to come off. There
is no other practical way to get it apart without creating a huge mess.
(Don't be tempted by those nuts on the top.)
If you need crush washers, parts, or a pump, Jill at Carl Hays Enterprises can
help you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128662#128662
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