Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:51 AM - Prop seals (CJcanuck)
2. 04:52 AM - Re: Re: Day to Day ops..... (A. Dennis Savarese)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Prop seals (cjpilot710@aol.com)
4. 06:07 AM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Roger Kemp)
5. 06:33 AM - Re: Prop seals (Doug Sapp)
6. 06:36 AM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Craig Schneider)
7. 09:14 AM - Re: Prop seals (Walter Lannon)
8. 10:11 AM - the lighter side of tools (cjpilot710@aol.com)
9. 10:20 AM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Ron Davis)
10. 10:56 AM - RPA Checklist (John Graham)
11. 11:24 AM - Re: RPA Checklist (Roger Kemp)
12. 11:35 AM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Roger Kemp)
13. 11:57 AM - -50 v. Su-29 (Barry Hancock)
14. 12:03 PM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Roger Kemp)
15. 12:05 PM - Re: RPA Checklist (A. Dennis Savarese)
16. 12:10 PM - Re: pneumatic cancer (A. Dennis Savarese)
17. 01:07 PM - Re: -50 v. Su-29 (b747crew2003@aol.com)
18. 01:52 PM - Re: RPA Checklist (Cliff Coy)
19. 02:20 PM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Roger Kemp)
20. 02:39 PM - Re: RPA Checklist (cjpilot710@aol.com)
21. 03:46 PM - air line restrictors (Doug Sapp)
22. 03:51 PM - Re: -50 v. Su-29 (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
23. 04:08 PM - Re: Prop seals (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
24. 04:26 PM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
25. 04:35 PM - Re: Re: Day to Day ops..... (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
26. 05:49 PM - Re: Prop seals (Doug Sapp)
27. 07:15 PM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Brian Lloyd)
28. 07:40 PM - Re: pneumatic cancer (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
Message 1
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Hi All!
Lately I've noticed an increase in the amount of oil seeping out of the prop hub
and down the prop blades after each flight. I've also started to see some splatter
on the wings (mainly the left) and the windscreen. My AME feels it's
due to the prop seals 'drying out' due to insufficient flying.
We are planning on pulling the prop anyways come annual time, but I was wondering
if anyone has any other ideas, or ways of keeping the prop seals in good condition
during periods of inactivity.
FYI, the prop came from China with zero-time, though from the look of the paint
on the blades it's not a new prop unit, just overhauled.
Thanks!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140396#140396
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Day to Day ops..... |
I'll find out more details and let you know.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
<mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 5:19 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Day to Day ops.....
> MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Really? Where and for how much? Super airplane. I might consider
> letting go of the 50 for one of those.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis
> Savarese
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 22:15
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Day to Day ops.....
>
> --> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
>
> How about a NEW Yak 54! Found out today they are back in production.
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Gagnon" <NiftyYak50@fuse.net>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:57 PM
> Subject: Yak-List: Re: Day to Day ops.....
>
>
>>
>> [quote="cpayne(at)joimail.com"]>
>> > He, like everyone else, really needs a -50. He is a retired fighter
> guy
>> > and loves
>>
>>> the -50 but wants another seat.
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>
>> Sukhoi
>>
>>
>> Craig Payne
>> cpayne@joimail.com (cpayne@joimail.com)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> [b]
>>
>>
>>
>> There has to be a limit to everything! Suks are a bit pricey!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140185#140185
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 3
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In a message dated 10/17/2007 7:52:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
m_kirk69@hotmail.com writes:
First of all fly more often.
Second, the prop seals are easily changed. Just make sure you put them in
the correct way. Make sure there are no scratches. Smooth them out with very
fine emery paper.
Third, I don't think the seal "dry out" really. Because they are not moving
and stationary for a long time, they tend to take a "set" to one side which
allows oil to by pass. Even if you don't fly, Just running the engine and
cycling the prop a number of times, several time a month, help keep that from
happening.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
Hi All!
Lately I've noticed an increase in the amount of oil seeping out of the prop
hub and down the prop blades after each flight. I've also started to see
some splatter on the wings (mainly the left) and the windscreen. My AME feels
it's due to the prop seals 'drying out' due to insufficient flying.
We are planning on pulling the prop anyways come annual time, but I was
wondering if anyone has any other ideas, or ways of keeping the prop seals in
good condition during periods of inactivity.
FYI, the prop came from China with zero-time, though from the look of the
paint on the blades it's not a new prop unit, just overhauled.
Thanks!
Message 4
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
Copy...but add an open flame and there goes the single wide along with half
of the rest of the trailor trash in the park!
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Boede
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
You know, it's sad that distributing information on that missing step is now
"terrorism". Sigh.
>From: Brian Lloyd <brian-1927@lloyd.com>
>To: yak-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:54:42 -0700
>
>
>
>On Oct 16, 2007, at 3:33 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
>MALS-14 64E wrote:
>
>>MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>>Actually Doc, my advice would be to mix some of that gylcerine with high
>>grade fuming nitric acid.
>
>There is an intermediate step you forgot. The devil is always in the
>details.
>
>--
>Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
>brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
>
>I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
> Antoine de Saint-Exupry
>
>PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
>PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
>
>
Message 5
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One thing to keep in mind, the Chinese do not "overhaul" as we here in
the US do, they I.R.A.N. If your prop seals looked good to the fellow
doing the work at the "overhaul" shop he may not have thought it was
necessary to replace them.
*I*nspect, *R*epair, *A*s *N*ecessary.
We all need to understand what "overhaul" means in the various countries.
Always Yakin,
Doug
cjpilot710@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/17/2007 7:52:38 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> m_kirk69@hotmail.com writes:
>
> First of all fly more often.
>
> Second, the prop seals are easily changed. Just make sure you put
> them in the correct way. Make sure there are no scratches. Smooth
> them out with very fine emery paper.
>
> Third, I don't think the seal "dry out" really. Because they are not
> moving and stationary for a long time, they tend to take a "set" to
> one side which allows oil to by pass. Even if you don't fly, Just
> running the engine and cycling the prop a number of times, several
> time a month, help keep that from happening.
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi All!
>
> Lately I've noticed an increase in the amount of oil seeping out
> of the prop hub and down the prop blades after each flight. I've
> also started to see some splatter on the wings (mainly the left)
> and the windscreen. My AME feels it's due to the prop seals
> 'drying out' due to insufficient flying.
>
> We are planning on pulling the prop anyways come annual time, but
> I was wondering if anyone has any other ideas, or ways of keeping
> the prop seals in good condition during periods of inactivity.
>
> FYI, the prop came from China with zero-time, though from the look
> of the paint on the blades it's not a new prop unit, just overhauled.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
>"..............the rest of the trailor trash in the park"
Now why did you have to get Brittany Spears involved?
From: Roger Kemp
Sent: Wed 10/17/2007 9:05 AM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
Copy...but add an open flame and there goes the single wide along with half
of the rest of the trailor trash in the park!
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Boede
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
You know, it's sad that distributing information on that missing step is no
w
"terrorism". Sigh.
>From: Brian Lloyd <brian-1927@lloyd.com>
>To: yak-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 20:54:42 -0700
>
>
>
>On Oct 16, 2007, at 3:33 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
>MALS-14 64E wrote:
>
,
>>MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>>Actually Doc, my advice would be to mix some of that gylcerine with high
>>grade fuming nitric acid.
>
>There is an intermediate step you forgot. The devil is always in the
>details.
>
>--
>Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
>brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
>
>I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
>- Antoine de Saint-Exup=E9ry
>
>PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
>PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
>
>
Message 7
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The seals are the "chevron" type and tend to lose their set over time. The
Chinese ones seem particularly poor in this regard. The Russian ones may be
better.
The oil leakage you see coming from the hub is in fact coming through the
hub from the pitch change unit. The hub is lubricated by grease and has
blade seals intended to retain the grease. They do not work too well with
oil.
You need to replace the two seals on the pitch change piston. Doug Sapp will
have new ones.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "CJcanuck" <m_kirk69@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:50 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Prop seals
>
> Hi All!
>
> Lately I've noticed an increase in the amount of oil seeping out of the
> prop hub and down the prop blades after each flight. I've also started to
> see some splatter on the wings (mainly the left) and the windscreen. My
> AME feels it's due to the prop seals 'drying out' due to insufficient
> flying.
>
> We are planning on pulling the prop anyways come annual time, but I was
> wondering if anyone has any other ideas, or ways of keeping the prop seals
> in good condition during periods of inactivity.
>
> FYI, the prop came from China with zero-time, though from the look of the
> paint on the blades it's not a new prop unit, just overhauled.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140396#140396
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | the lighter side of tools |
This is for those of us who really work on our airplanes. How many of you
will fess-up to this?
Pappy
The REAL purpose of tools.......
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat meta
l
bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heir
loom
piece you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the
workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earne
d
guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Yeou -
DAM#....!!!"
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
until you die of old age.
CIRCULAR SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters. The tool most often used by women.
BELT SANDER: An electric tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs
into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
and the
more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becom
es.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads.
If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense
welding heat to the palm of your hand.
WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the
wheel
hub you want the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1=BD s
ocket you've
been searching for the last 45 minutes.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after
you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly un
der
the bumper.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off
of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool 10 times harder than any known dril
l
bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes, thereby ending any possible future
use.
RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops t
o
scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of
everything you forgot to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably
has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a
drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which
is
not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main
purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm
howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle
of the
Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and
for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shir
t;
but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw
heads. Women excel at using this tool.
BLADE SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert
common slotted screws into non-removable screws.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning powe
r
plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by
hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were
last over-tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and instantly rounds o
ff
their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket
you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used
as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to th
e
object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to make gaping holes in
walls when hanging pictures.
BOX CUTTER: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard carton
s
delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as
seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refu
nd
checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work
clothes, but only while in use.
DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while
yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next
tool that you will need.
TOM MASON
Message 9
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
Ethanol is a component of scotch, bourbon, vodka, and gasahol. It is avail
able in high concentration in many states from liquor stores where it is so
ld as Everclear or grain alcohol. Ethanol does not cause blindness when co
nsumed in any reasonable quantity.
Industrial ethanol is labeled as poisonous either because it has been de-na
tured (poisoned) to make it undrinkable and thus avoid the excise tax on dr
inkable ethanol, or it is labeled poisionous because in today's world prett
y much everything is labeled poisionous despite the fact that people have b
een making ethanol from grapes, corn, barley, and even rice (Budwiser) for
thousands of years.
Blindness does result from drinking methanol, AKA wood alcohol. Methanol m
ay be available at the drug store, but it is incompatable with some types o
f rubber (which is why it isn't used in gasoline) and it's probably a bad i
dea to put it in your pneumatic system before determining if it is compatib
le.
The devil is definitely in the details.
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:32:24 -0500> From: viperdoc@mindspring.com> To:
yak-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer> > --> Yak
-List message posted by: Roger Kemp <viperdoc@mindspring.com>> > moonshine
or Tequila is clear also! Shine definately will clean that linseed oil out
of the system or clogg it up. Just depends on site and date of manufacture.
> But seriouisly if you want to mix 50:50 gylcerine to ETOH, you can get 90
% ethyl alcohol for most pharamacies (Rite Aid has it over the counter).> D
on't drink the ethyl alcohol please! You'll go blind!> Sic> Doc> > -----Ori
ginal Message-----> >From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>>
>Sent: Oct 15, 2007 9:12 PM> >To: yak-list@matronics.com> >Subject: Re: Yak
arese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>> >> >Smirnoff. It's clear. :-)> >Dennis> >
> >> >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@person
a.ca>> >To: <yak-list@matronics.com>> >Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:12
PM> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer> >> >> >> --> Yak-List message
posted by: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@persona.ca>> >>> >> Doug;> >>> >> If y
ou use Kosher glycerine for the first 50%, what do you use for the > >> las
t 50? Jack Daniels or Glenlivet??> >>> >> Cheers;> >> Walt> >> ----- Origin
al Message ----- > >> From: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>> >> To: <yak-l
ist@matronics.com>> >> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:27 PM> >> Subject:
Doug Sapp <rvfltd@televar.com>> >>>> >>> Guys,> >>> Glycerin is one of the
items used in the preservation of flowers, I buy > >>> it in truckload qua
ntities in 55 gallon drums (USP grade), so if anyone > >>> wants any just l
et me know. Heck, I even have a drum of Kosher glycerin > >>> which might b
e preferred by those of you who feel that it is important to > >>> have you
r air line lubricant blessed by a higher power than just your > >>> A&P. I
use it....I need all the help I can get! ;o)> >>>> >>>> >>> Always Yakin,>
>>> Doug> >>>> >>> A. Dennis Savarese wrote:> >>>> >>>> --> Yak-List messag
e posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" > >>>> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>> >>>>> >
>>> A 50-50 mixture of glycerin and alcohol is what is recommended.> >>>> D
ennis> >>>>> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Boede" <jonboede@
hotmail.com>> >>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>> >>>> Sent: Monday, October
15, 2007 4:53 PM> >>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer> >>>>> >>>>
>>>>>> >>>>> I know that people have used Freon detectors since they can b
e borrowed > >>>>> from any number of refrigeration / air-conditioning folk
s. I know that > >>>>> manical L-39 folks have gotten their nitrogen system
s to hold for > >>>>> MONTHS by sniffing things out with a Freon detector.>
>>>>>> >>>>> Alas, my problem is not so subtle. When I turn the main air v
alve on, > >>>>> my front flap valve and my back gear handle hiss noticably
. :-(> >>>>>> >>>>> Oh well, as Brian points out, I'm embarassingly past al
l > >>>>> disassemble-and-clean intervals on my pneumatic system.> >>>>>> >
>>>> Do I really want to fix things up with linseed oil? Anybody have a > >
>>>> better suggestion that will be kind to all the seals in the system?> >
>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14
ics.com> >>>>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>> >>>>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List:
pneumatic cancer> >>>>>> Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:07:20 -0400> >>>>>>> >>
>>>>> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Does a
nyone remember what types of sniff detectors are out there? It> >>>>>> seem
s to me that one time I saw a really hard to find leak in a > >>>>>> nitrog
en> >>>>>> line.. They filled the tank with something like Argon, and then
used > >>>>>> an> >>>>>> Argon sniff detector that could register detection
in some really loss> >>>>>> part per million category. This thing could fi
nd the breath of an> >>>>>> ant... As long as the ant farted argon. That ki
nd of device will find> >>>>>> the most smallest of leaks out there. I know
they also make one for> >>>>>> Freon, but of course we can't pump that stu
ff into our tanks! This> >>>>>> might not be as difficult as it sounds real
ly... I just am not sure > >>>>>> what> >>>>>> is out on the market and for
how much. Ultrasonic leak detectors work,> >>>>>> but take a LOT of time.>
>>>>>>> >>>>>> Mark Bitterlich> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> -----Original Messa
ge-----> >>>>>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com> >>>>>> [mailto:o
wner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Boede> >>>>>> Sent: Mo
nday, October 15, 2007 14:50> >>>>>> To: yak-list@matronics.com> >>>>>> Sub
ject: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer> >>>>>>> >>>>>> --> Yak-List message poste
d by: "Jon Boede" <jonboede@hotmail.com>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> I still had a mino
r overall leak in my air system (would take several> >>>>>> hours to drop t
o zero once the master valve was closed) after > >>>>>> replacing> >>>>>> m
y front flap valve.> >>>>>>> >>>>>> So I decided to be brilliant and put a
couple tablespoons of WD-40 > >>>>>> into> >>>>>> my air tank.> >>>>>>> >>>
>>> This seems to have made the problem much, much worse.> >>>>>>> >>>>>> I
can hear hissing throughout the air system, even at the brand new > >>>>>>
flap> >>>>>> and gear valves in the front seat, and the system won't charg
e up past> >>>>>> about 25.> >>>>>>> >>>>>> I have since drained the WD-40
and put a little bit of air tool oil in> >>>>>> the main tank and this week
I'm going to disassemble the valves,> >>>>>> starting with the aforementio
ned brand new flap valve.> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Anybody got any suggestions on wh
at I should be looking for, mistakes > >>>>>> to> >>>>>> avoid, or just com
miseration? :-)> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks,> >>>>>> Jon> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>
>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>
>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> > >> >>
==============> > >
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
Message 10
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The RPA checklist for a Yak 52 has been a great help to me. I have 3 questions:
1. During the run up it states to set the prop at 64% and move the throttle and
verify the 64% stays constant. What is the purpose of this.
2. Before take off it states to move the flap handle to Neutral. Won't this
depressurize the flap system and slam them down when the flaps are lowered?
3. During climb and after raising the gear, it states to put the gear handle in
Neutral. Any reason for this or can it stay in th UP position.
Thanks (as always) for the help.
John
N15YK
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
Message 11
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John,
None of that is in my now anciently translated version of the original YAK
student pilot's handbook. It says set the prop at full forward and set
"advance" (manifold pressure) at 70%, check mags for not greater than 3%
drop per side.
It only recommends setting the flaps and gear to the neutral position for
the cockpit that is not commanding the gear or flaps. It only specifies
placing the gear handle in neutral to depressurize the system before
blowing the gear down from the emergency system.
Have not looked at in a while but that is the best that I remember of it,
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Graham
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:56 PM
Subject: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
The RPA checklist for a Yak 52 has been a great help to me. I have 3
questions:
1. During the run up it states to set the prop at 64% and move the throttle
and verify the 64% stays constant. What is the purpose of this.
2. Before take off it states to move the flap handle to Neutral. Won't
this depressurize the flap system and slam them down when the flaps are
lowered?
3. During climb and after raising the gear, it states to put the gear
handle in Neutral. Any reason for this or can it stay in th UP position.
Thanks (as always) for the help.
John
N15YK
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
Message 12
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
Ron,
You obviously missed the joke!
Sic
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Davis
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
Ethanol is a component of scotch, bourbon, vodka, and gasahol. It is
available in high concentration in many states from liquor stores where it
is sold as Everclear or grain alcohol. Ethanol does not cause blindness
when consumed in any reasonable quantity.
Industrial ethanol is labeled as poisonous either because it has been
de-natured (poisoned) to make it undrinkable and thus avoid the excise tax
on drinkable ethanol, or it is labeled poisionous because in today's world
pretty much everything is labeled poisionous despite the fact that people
have been making ethanol from grapes, corn, barley, and even rice (Budwiser)
for thousands of years.
Blindness does result from drinking methanol, AKA wood alcohol. Methanol
may be available at the drug store, but it is incompatable with some types
of rubber (which is why it isn't used in gasoline) and it's probably a bad
idea to put it in your pneumatic system before determining if it is
compatible.
The devil is definitely in the details.
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:32:24 -0500
> From: viperdoc@mindspring.com
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
>
>
> moonshine or Tequila is clear also! Shine definately will clean that
linseed oil out of the system or clogg it up. Just depends on site and date
of manufacture.
> But seriouisly if you want to mix 50:50 gylcerine to ETOH, you can get 90%
ethyl alcohol for most pharamacies (Rite Aid has it over the counter).
> Don't drink the ethyl alcohol please! You'll go blind!
> Sic
> Doc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >Sent: Oct 15, 2007 9:12 PM
> >To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
<dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >
> >Smirnoff. It's clear. :-)
> >Dennis
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@persona.ca>
> >To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:12 PM
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Doug;
> >>
> >> If you use Kosher glycerine for the first 50%, what do you use for the
> >> last 50? Jack Daniels or Glenlivet??
> >>
> >> Cheers;
> >> Walt
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
> >> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:27 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Guys,
> >>> Glycerin is one of the items used in the preservation of flowers, I
buy
> >>> it in truckload quantities in 55 gallon drums (USP grade), so if
anyone
> >>> wants any just let me know. Heck, I even have a drum of Kosher
glycerin
> >>> which might be preferred by those of you who feel that it is important
to
> >>> have your air line lubricant blessed by a higher power than just your
> >>> A&P. I use it....I need all the help I can get! ;o)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Always Yakin,
> >>> Doug
> >>>
> >>> A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >>>>
> >>>> A 50-50 mixture of glycerin and alcohol is what is recommended.
> >>>> Dennis
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Boede" <jonboede@hotmail.com>
> >>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:53 PM
> >>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I know that people have used Freon detectors since they can be
borrowed
> >>>>> from any number of refrigeration / air-conditioning folks. I know
that
> >>>>> manical L-39 folks have gotten their nitrogen systems to hold for
> >>>>> MONTHS by sniffing things out with a Freon detector.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Alas, my problem is not so subtle. When I turn the main air valve
on,
> >>>>> my front flap valve and my back gear handle hiss noticably. :-(
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Oh well, as Brian points out, I'm embarassingly past all
> >>>>> disassemble-and-clean intervals on my pneumatic system.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Do I really want to fix things up with linseed oil? Anybody have a
> >>>>> better suggestion that will be kind to all the seals in the system?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
> >>>>>> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>> Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:07:20 -0400
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Does anyone remember what types of sniff detectors are out there?
It
> >>>>>> seems to me that one time I saw a really hard to find leak in a
> >>>>>> nitrogen
> >>>>>> line.. They filled the tank with something like Argon, and then
used
> >>>>>> an
> >>>>>> Argon sniff detector that could register detection in some really
loss
> >>>>>> part per million category. This thing could find the breath of an
> >>>>>> ant... As long as the ant farted argon. That kind of device will
find
> >>>>>> the most smallest of leaks out there. I know they also make one for
> >>>>>> Freon, but of course we can't pump that stuff into our tanks! This
> >>>>>> might not be as difficult as it sounds really... I just am not sure
> >>>>>> what
> >>>>>> is out on the market and for how much. Ultrasonic leak detectors
work,
> >>>>>> but take a LOT of time.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mark Bitterlich
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> >>>>>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Boede
> >>>>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 14:50
> >>>>>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >>>>>> Subject: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I still had a minor overall leak in my air system (would take
several
> >>>>>> hours to drop to zero once the master valve was closed) after
> >>>>>> replacing
> >>>>>> my front flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> So I decided to be brilliant and put a couple tablespoons of WD-40
> >>>>>> into
> >>>>>> my air tank.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This seems to have made the problem much, much worse.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I can hear hissing throughout the air system, even at the brand new
> >>>>>> flap
> >>>>>> and gear valves in the front seat, and the system won't charge up
past
> >>>>>> about 25.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have since drained the WD-40 and put a little bit of air tool oil
in
> >>>>>> the main tank and this week I'm going to disassemble the valves,
> >>>>>> starting with the aforementioned brand new flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Anybody got any suggestions on what I should be looking for,
mistakes
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>> avoid, or just commiseration? :-)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>> Jon
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
=====================
> ===============
>
>
>
_____
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try
chase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now!
Message 13
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On Oct 16, 2007, at 11:58 PM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
> I don't know about that Doc.... Have you ever flown a Sukhoi SU-29?
> It'll eat a YAK-50 for breakfast.
Well, unless you meet at the merge, in which case the -50 is easily the
superior aircraft.
Check six,
Barry
Message 14
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
Ron,
You are correct on the ethanol (ethyl alcohol). But do not drink the 90%
isopropyl alcohol that is OTC at the drug store as a rubbing alcohol. It
does contain contaminates that are not to healthy (isopropyl alcohol). It
causes headache, dizziness, confusion, and excitation. All pretty much
similar symptoms of Ethyl alcohol ingestion( Budweiser, Tequila, wood grain
alcohol ect). It just gets uglier with the more you consume causing
obtundation, coma, respiratory depression, hypothermia, , hypotension,
mylopathy, and hemolytic anemia. Concentrations greater that 66 mmol/L are
fatal. It does not cause blindness unlike methyl alcohol. Methanol above 60
mmol/L will cause obtundation, convulsions, coma and increased osmolal gap.
The blindness is a late manifestation from the increased anion gap,
metabolic acidosis, with the retinal injury being due to the acidosis
causing a secondary accumulation of formic acid, lactic acid and ketones in
the vitreous humor of the posterior chamber of the eye permanently
destroying the retina. Those are late manifestations occurring 15 to 20
hours or later after ingestion.
So what else do you want to know about the 3 most common alcohols that man
has intentionally and accidentally poisoned him/herself with?
And yes you are absolutely incorrect Isopropyl alcohol (not methyl alcohol)
is found in after-shave lotions, antifreeze, window cleaner, solvents, and
rubbing alcohol. Its' metabolite is acetone.
Methanol is found in shellacs, varnishes, paint removers, Sterno,
windshield-washer solutions and copy machine fluids to name a few. It is
also a denaturant used to make ethanol unfit for consumption. And it really
will make you go blind!
So the devil really is in the details.
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Davis
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
Ethanol is a component of scotch, bourbon, vodka, and gasahol. It is
available in high concentration in many states from liquor stores where it
is sold as Everclear or grain alcohol. Ethanol does not cause blindness
when consumed in any reasonable quantity.
Industrial ethanol is labeled as poisonous either because it has been
de-natured (poisoned) to make it undrinkable and thus avoid the excise tax
on drinkable ethanol, or it is labeled poisionous because in today's world
pretty much everything is labeled poisionous despite the fact that people
have been making ethanol from grapes, corn, barley, and even rice (Budwiser)
for thousands of years.
Blindness does result from drinking methanol, AKA wood alcohol. Methanol
may be available at the drug store, but it is incompatable with some types
of rubber (which is why it isn't used in gasoline) and it's probably a bad
idea to put it in your pneumatic system before determining if it is
compatible.
The devil is definitely in the details.
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:32:24 -0500
> From: viperdoc@mindspring.com
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
>
>
> moonshine or Tequila is clear also! Shine definately will clean that
linseed oil out of the system or clogg it up. Just depends on site and date
of manufacture.
> But seriouisly if you want to mix 50:50 gylcerine to ETOH, you can get 90%
ethyl alcohol for most pharamacies (Rite Aid has it over the counter).
> Don't drink the ethyl alcohol please! You'll go blind!
> Sic
> Doc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >Sent: Oct 15, 2007 9:12 PM
> >To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
<dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >
> >Smirnoff. It's clear. :-)
> >Dennis
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@persona.ca>
> >To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:12 PM
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Doug;
> >>
> >> If you use Kosher glycerine for the first 50%, what do you use for the
> >> last 50? Jack Daniels or Glenlivet??
> >>
> >> Cheers;
> >> Walt
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
> >> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:27 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Guys,
> >>> Glycerin is one of the items used in the preservation of flowers, I
buy
> >>> it in truckload quantities in 55 gallon drums (USP grade), so if
anyone
> >>> wants any just let me know. Heck, I even have a drum of Kosher
glycerin
> >>> which might be preferred by those of you who feel that it is important
to
> >>> have your air line lubricant blessed by a higher power than just your
> >>> A&P. I use it....I need all the help I can get! ;o)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Always Yakin,
> >>> Doug
> >>>
> >>> A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >>>>
> >>>> A 50-50 mixture of glycerin and alcohol is what is recommended.
> >>>> Dennis
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Boede" <jonboede@hotmail.com>
> >>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:53 PM
> >>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I know that people have used Freon detectors since they can be
borrowed
> >>>>> from any number of refrigeration / air-conditioning folks. I know
that
> >>>>> manical L-39 folks have gotten their nitrogen systems to hold for
> >>>>> MONTHS by sniffing things out with a Freon detector.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Alas, my problem is not so subtle. When I turn the main air valve
on,
> >>>>> my front flap valve and my back gear handle hiss noticably. :-(
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Oh well, as Brian points out, I'm embarassingly past all
> >>>>> disassemble-and-clean intervals on my pneumatic system.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Do I really want to fix things up with linseed oil? Anybody have a
> >>>>> better suggestion that will be kind to all the seals in the system?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
> >>>>>> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>> Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:07:20 -0400
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Does anyone remember what types of sniff detectors are out there?
It
> >>>>>> seems to me that one time I saw a really hard to find leak in a
> >>>>>> nitrogen
> >>>>>> line.. They filled the tank with something like Argon, and then
used
> >>>>>> an
> >>>>>> Argon sniff detector that could register detection in some really
loss
> >>>>>> part per million category. This thing could find the breath of an
> >>>>>> ant... As long as the ant farted argon. That kind of device will
find
> >>>>>> the most smallest of leaks out there. I know they also make one for
> >>>>>> Freon, but of course we can't pump that stuff into our tanks! This
> >>>>>> might not be as difficult as it sounds really... I just am not sure
> >>>>>> what
> >>>>>> is out on the market and for how much. Ultrasonic leak detectors
work,
> >>>>>> but take a LOT of time.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mark Bitterlich
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> >>>>>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Boede
> >>>>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 14:50
> >>>>>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >>>>>> Subject: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I still had a minor overall leak in my air system (would take
several
> >>>>>> hours to drop to zero once the master valve was closed) after
> >>>>>> replacing
> >>>>>> my front flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> So I decided to be brilliant and put a couple tablespoons of WD-40
> >>>>>> into
> >>>>>> my air tank.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This seems to have made the problem much, much worse.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I can hear hissing throughout the air system, even at the brand new
> >>>>>> flap
> >>>>>> and gear valves in the front seat, and the system won't charge up
past
> >>>>>> about 25.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have since drained the WD-40 and put a little bit of air tool oil
in
> >>>>>> the main tank and this week I'm going to disassemble the valves,
> >>>>>> starting with the aforementioned brand new flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Anybody got any suggestions on what I should be looking for,
mistakes
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>> avoid, or just commiseration? :-)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>> Jon
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
=====================
> ===============
>
>
>
_____
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try
chase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RPA Checklist |
John,
My comments IAW your question numbers -
1. The purpose is to check the prop governor's ability to hold a constant
RPM.
2. Do NOT do this! You are 100% correct. If your copy of the manual says
this, the manual should be changed immediately and you should notify the
creator of manual that it is wrong.
3. Do NOT do this! You are depressurizing the landing gear actuators AND
the uplock assemblies. Unless you remember to put the gear handle BACK to
the UP position BEFORE moving the gear handle to the DOWN position, the
landing gear actuators will slam down. I guarantee it WILL get your
attention and a neophyte back seater will have the crap scared out of them.
Keep the gear handle in the UP position but DO NOT put the slide lock in
place while the gear handle is in the UP position during flight. Too many
people have lowered the gear handle to the neutral position with the slide
lock in place and "heard" the hiss, thinking the gear was down and locked
when in fact, the gear was just hanging limp. They also did not check for
the green lights and assumed the gear was down AND locked because they 1)
felt the firm stop of the gear handle and 2) heard the hiss of the actuators
depressurizing. When the prop goes "ding", "ding" on the runway, you'll
realize you only had the handle in the neutral position and a very loud "Oh,
SH--" is heard emanating from the cockpit.
As I said, wherever the flight manual is posted, it should have these
instructions immediately corrected. Especially #3 because it is inviting a
potential gear up landing.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
>
> John,
> None of that is in my now anciently translated version of the original YAK
> student pilot's handbook. It says set the prop at full forward and set
> "advance" (manifold pressure) at 70%, check mags for not greater than 3%
> drop per side.
> It only recommends setting the flaps and gear to the neutral position for
> the cockpit that is not commanding the gear or flaps. It only specifies
> placing the gear handle in neutral to depressurize the system before
> blowing the gear down from the emergency system.
> Have not looked at in a while but that is the best that I remember of it,
> Doc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Graham
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:56 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
>
>
> The RPA checklist for a Yak 52 has been a great help to me. I have 3
> questions:
>
> 1. During the run up it states to set the prop at 64% and move the
> throttle
> and verify the 64% stays constant. What is the purpose of this.
>
> 2. Before take off it states to move the flap handle to Neutral.
> Won't
> this depressurize the flap system and slam them down when the flaps are
> lowered?
>
> 3. During climb and after raising the gear, it states to put the gear
> handle in Neutral. Any reason for this or can it stay in th UP position.
>
> Thanks (as always) for the help.
>
> John
> N15YK
>
>
> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> that gives answers, not web links.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic cancer |
"....used to make ethanol unfit for consumption. And it really will make
you go blind!"
Someone once told me a LONG time ago about something else that would
make you go blind too if you indulged in it too frequently!
:-----)))))))
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Kemp
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 2:01 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
Ron,
You are correct on the ethanol (ethyl alcohol). But do not drink the
90% isopropyl alcohol that is OTC at the drug store as a rubbing
alcohol. It does contain contaminates that are not to healthy (isopropyl
alcohol). It causes headache, dizziness, confusion, and excitation. All
pretty much similar symptoms of Ethyl alcohol ingestion( Budweiser,
Tequila, wood grain alcohol ect). It just gets uglier with the more you
consume causing obtundation, coma, respiratory depression, hypothermia,
, hypotension, mylopathy, and hemolytic anemia. Concentrations greater
that 66 mmol/L are fatal. It does not cause blindness unlike methyl
alcohol. Methanol above 60 mmol/L will cause obtundation, convulsions,
coma and increased osmolal gap. The blindness is a late manifestation
from the increased anion gap, metabolic acidosis, with the retinal
injury being due to the acidosis causing a secondary accumulation of
formic acid, lactic acid and ketones in the vitreous humor of the
posterior chamber of the eye permanently destroying the retina. Those
are late manifestations occurring 15 to 20 hours or later after
ingestion.
So what else do you want to know about the 3 most common alcohols that
man has intentionally and accidentally poisoned him/herself with?
And yes you are absolutely incorrect Isopropyl alcohol (not methyl
alcohol) is found in after-shave lotions, antifreeze, window cleaner,
solvents, and rubbing alcohol. Its' metabolite is acetone.
Methanol is found in shellacs, varnishes, paint removers, Sterno,
windshield-washer solutions and copy machine fluids to name a few. It is
also a denaturant used to make ethanol unfit for consumption. And it
really will make you go blind!
So the devil really is in the details.
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Davis
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:20 PM
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
Ethanol is a component of scotch, bourbon, vodka, and gasahol. It is
available in high concentration in many states from liquor stores where
it is sold as Everclear or grain alcohol. Ethanol does not cause
blindness when consumed in any reasonable quantity.
Industrial ethanol is labeled as poisonous either because it has been
de-natured (poisoned) to make it undrinkable and thus avoid the excise
tax on drinkable ethanol, or it is labeled poisionous because in today's
world pretty much everything is labeled poisionous despite the fact that
people have been making ethanol from grapes, corn, barley, and even rice
(Budwiser) for thousands of years.
Blindness does result from drinking methanol, AKA wood alcohol.
Methanol may be available at the drug store, but it is incompatable with
some types of rubber (which is why it isn't used in gasoline) and it's
probably a bad idea to put it in your pneumatic system before
determining if it is compatible.
The devil is definitely in the details.
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:32:24 -0500
> From: viperdoc@mindspring.com
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
>
>
> moonshine or Tequila is clear also! Shine definately will clean that
linseed oil out of the system or clogg it up. Just depends on site and
date of manufacture.
> But seriouisly if you want to mix 50:50 gylcerine to ETOH, you can
get 90% ethyl alcohol for most pharamacies (Rite Aid has it over the
counter).
> Don't drink the ethyl alcohol please! You'll go blind!
> Sic
> Doc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >Sent: Oct 15, 2007 9:12 PM
> >To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
<dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >
> >Smirnoff. It's clear. :-)
> >Dennis
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@persona.ca>
> >To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:12 PM
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
> >
<wlannon@persona.ca>
> >>
> >> Doug;
> >>
> >> If you use Kosher glycerine for the first 50%, what do you use
for the
> >> last 50? Jack Daniels or Glenlivet??
> >>
> >> Cheers;
> >> Walt
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
> >> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:27 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Guys,
> >>> Glycerin is one of the items used in the preservation of
flowers, I buy
> >>> it in truckload quantities in 55 gallon drums (USP grade), so if
anyone
> >>> wants any just let me know. Heck, I even have a drum of Kosher
glycerin
> >>> which might be preferred by those of you who feel that it is
important to
> >>> have your air line lubricant blessed by a higher power than just
your
> >>> A&P. I use it....I need all the help I can get! ;o)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Always Yakin,
> >>> Doug
> >>>
> >>> A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >>>>
> >>>> A 50-50 mixture of glycerin and alcohol is what is recommended.
> >>>> Dennis
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Boede"
<jonboede@hotmail.com>
> >>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:53 PM
> >>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>
> >>>>
<jonboede@hotmail.com>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I know that people have used Freon detectors since they can be
borrowed
> >>>>> from any number of refrigeration / air-conditioning folks. I
know that
> >>>>> manical L-39 folks have gotten their nitrogen systems to hold
for
> >>>>> MONTHS by sniffing things out with a Freon detector.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Alas, my problem is not so subtle. When I turn the main air
valve on,
> >>>>> my front flap valve and my back gear handle hiss noticably.
:-(
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Oh well, as Brian points out, I'm embarassingly past all
> >>>>> disassemble-and-clean intervals on my pneumatic system.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Do I really want to fix things up with linseed oil? Anybody
have a
> >>>>> better suggestion that will be kind to all the seals in the
system?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
> >>>>>> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>> Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:07:20 -0400
> >>>>>>
Cherry
> >>>>>> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Does anyone remember what types of sniff detectors are out
there? It
> >>>>>> seems to me that one time I saw a really hard to find leak in
a
> >>>>>> nitrogen
> >>>>>> line.. They filled the tank with something like Argon, and
then used
> >>>>>> an
> >>>>>> Argon sniff detector that could register detection in some
really loss
> >>>>>> part per million category. This thing could find the breath
of an
> >>>>>> ant... As long as the ant farted argon. That kind of device
will find
> >>>>>> the most smallest of leaks out there. I know they also make
one for
> >>>>>> Freon, but of course we can't pump that stuff into our tanks!
This
> >>>>>> might not be as difficult as it sounds really... I just am
not sure
> >>>>>> what
> >>>>>> is out on the market and for how much. Ultrasonic leak
detectors work,
> >>>>>> but take a LOT of time.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mark Bitterlich
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> >>>>>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Boede
> >>>>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 14:50
> >>>>>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >>>>>> Subject: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>>
<jonboede@hotmail.com>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I still had a minor overall leak in my air system (would take
several
> >>>>>> hours to drop to zero once the master valve was closed) after
> >>>>>> replacing
> >>>>>> my front flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> So I decided to be brilliant and put a couple tablespoons of
WD-40
> >>>>>> into
> >>>>>> my air tank.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This seems to have made the problem much, much worse.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I can hear hissing throughout the air system, even at the
brand new
> >>>>>> flap
> >>>>>> and gear valves in the front seat, and the system won't
charge up past
> >>>>>> about 25.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have since drained the WD-40 and put a little bit of air
tool oil in
> >>>>>> the main tank and this week I'm going to disassemble the
valves,
> >>>>>> starting with the aforementioned brand new flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Anybody got any suggestions on what I should be looking for,
mistakes
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>> avoid, or just commiseration? :-)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>> Jon
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
=====================
> ===============
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try
chase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now!
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: -50 v. Su-29 |
Don't think thios was for me Barry!!
Jack Snodgrass
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Hancock <bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com>
Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 2:22 pm
Subject: Yak-List: -50 v. Su-29
<bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com>
On Oct 16, 2007, at 11:58 PM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
> I don't know about that Doc.... Have you ever flown a Sukhoi SU-29?
> It'll eat a YAK-50 for breakfast.
Well, unless you meet at the merge, in which case the -50 is easily the
superior aircraft.
Check six,
Barry
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! -
http://mail.aol.com
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: RPA Checklist |
John, it sounds like you have the instructors manual, not the pilot's
manual.
In any event, unless the compressor is having real problems, there's no
real reason to return the handles to the neutral position after selection.
It's certainly not going to damage anything to select gear neutral after
the gear is locked up.
The uplocks are mechanical latches and will not release until the gear
is selected down.
The same is true from the flap system- it's mechanically locked in
either position.
If either of these systems allow movement after they've reached the
selected position, then you have a failure of the locking mechanism-
most likely due to corrosion.
Dennis is absolutely correct about air cushioning. The gear system
*requires* pressurization on the opposite side of the actuator to slow
the movement of the gear. DAMAGE WILL RESULT from slamming the gear up
or down. The uplocks take the damage from slamming the gear up- most
notably the nose gear. If the little roller wheel is bent off to the
side, then the gear's been slammed up.
If you or your mechanic is slamming the gear down during the emergency
gear system test....You're doing it wrong! And eventually the system is
going to crack at the actuator attach points.
So before selecting up, select down first and vice versa.....or simply
never leave the handles in the neutral position.
Sure if you're low on air and you want to conserve what you've got for
starting, then go ahead and select the neutral positions *before opening
the main air valve* and that will only allow the air to be used for
starting and brakes.
Just don't forget to select gear down and flaps up after the engine is
running.
If anyone needs a gear swing checklist let me know off list.
Cheers,
Cliff
A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
>
> John,
> My comments IAW your question numbers -
> 1. The purpose is to check the prop governor's ability to hold a
> constant RPM.
> 2. Do NOT do this! You are 100% correct. If your copy of the manual
> says this, the manual should be changed immediately and you should
> notify the creator of manual that it is wrong.
> 3. Do NOT do this! You are depressurizing the landing gear actuators
> AND the uplock assemblies. Unless you remember to put the gear handle
> BACK to the UP position BEFORE moving the gear handle to the DOWN
> position, the landing gear actuators will slam down. I guarantee it
> WILL get your attention and a neophyte back seater will have the crap
> scared out of them. Keep the gear handle in the UP position but DO NOT
> put the slide lock in place while the gear handle is in the UP
> position during flight. Too many people have lowered the gear handle
> to the neutral position with the slide lock in place and "heard" the
> hiss, thinking the gear was down and locked when in fact, the gear was
> just hanging limp. They also did not check for the green lights and
> assumed the gear was down AND locked because they 1) felt the firm
> stop of the gear handle and 2) heard the hiss of the actuators
> depressurizing. When the prop goes "ding", "ding" on the runway,
> you'll realize you only had the handle in the neutral position and a
> very loud "Oh, SH--" is heard emanating from the cockpit.
>
> As I said, wherever the flight manual is posted, it should have these
> instructions immediately corrected. Especially #3 because it is
> inviting a potential gear up landing.
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 1:23 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
>
>
>>
>> John,
>> None of that is in my now anciently translated version of the
>> original YAK
>> student pilot's handbook. It says set the prop at full forward and set
>> "advance" (manifold pressure) at 70%, check mags for not greater than 3%
>> drop per side.
>> It only recommends setting the flaps and gear to the neutral position
>> for
>> the cockpit that is not commanding the gear or flaps. It only specifies
>> placing the gear handle in neutral to depressurize the system before
>> blowing the gear down from the emergency system.
>> Have not looked at in a while but that is the best that I remember of
>> it,
>> Doc
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Graham
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:56 PM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
>>
>>
>> The RPA checklist for a Yak 52 has been a great help to me. I have 3
>> questions:
>>
>> 1. During the run up it states to set the prop at 64% and move the
>> throttle
>> and verify the 64% stays constant. What is the purpose of this.
>>
>> 2. Before take off it states to move the flap handle to Neutral.
>> Won't
>> this depressurize the flap system and slam them down when the flaps are
>> lowered?
>>
>> 3. During climb and after raising the gear, it states to put the gear
>> handle in Neutral. Any reason for this or can it stay in th UP
>> position.
>>
>> Thanks (as always) for the help.
>>
>> John
>> N15YK
>>
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
>> that gives answers, not web links.
>> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
YEAH and put hair on your palms too!
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
"....used to make ethanol unfit for consumption. And it really will make you
go blind!"
Someone once told me a LONG time ago about something else that would make
you go blind too if you indulged in it too frequently! :-----)))))))
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Kemp <mailto:viperdoc@mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 2:01 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
Ron,
You are correct on the ethanol (ethyl alcohol). But do not drink the 90%
isopropyl alcohol that is OTC at the drug store as a rubbing alcohol. It
does contain contaminates that are not to healthy (isopropyl alcohol). It
causes headache, dizziness, confusion, and excitation. All pretty much
similar symptoms of Ethyl alcohol ingestion( Budweiser, Tequila, wood grain
alcohol ect). It just gets uglier with the more you consume causing
obtundation, coma, respiratory depression, hypothermia, , hypotension,
mylopathy, and hemolytic anemia. Concentrations greater that 66 mmol/L are
fatal. It does not cause blindness unlike methyl alcohol. Methanol above 60
mmol/L will cause obtundation, convulsions, coma and increased osmolal gap.
The blindness is a late manifestation from the increased anion gap,
metabolic acidosis, with the retinal injury being due to the acidosis
causing a secondary accumulation of formic acid, lactic acid and ketones in
the vitreous humor of the posterior chamber of the eye permanently
destroying the retina. Those are late manifestations occurring 15 to 20
hours or later after ingestion.
So what else do you want to know about the 3 most common alcohols that man
has intentionally and accidentally poisoned him/herself with?
And yes you are absolutely incorrect Isopropyl alcohol (not methyl alcohol)
is found in after-shave lotions, antifreeze, window cleaner, solvents, and
rubbing alcohol. Its' metabolite is acetone.
Methanol is found in shellacs, varnishes, paint removers, Sterno,
windshield-washer solutions and copy machine fluids to name a few. It is
also a denaturant used to make ethanol unfit for consumption. And it really
will make you go blind!
So the devil really is in the details.
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Davis
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
Ethanol is a component of scotch, bourbon, vodka, and gasahol. It is
available in high concentration in many states from liquor stores where it
is sold as Everclear or grain alcohol. Ethanol does not cause blindness
when consumed in any reasonable quantity.
Industrial ethanol is labeled as poisonous either because it has been
de-natured (poisoned) to make it undrinkable and thus avoid the excise tax
on drinkable ethanol, or it is labeled poisionous because in today's world
pretty much everything is labeled poisionous despite the fact that people
have been making ethanol from grapes, corn, barley, and even rice (Budwiser)
for thousands of years.
Blindness does result from drinking methanol, AKA wood alcohol. Methanol
may be available at the drug store, but it is incompatable with some types
of rubber (which is why it isn't used in gasoline) and it's probably a bad
idea to put it in your pneumatic system before determining if it is
compatible.
The devil is definitely in the details.
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2007 08:32:24 -0500
> From: viperdoc@mindspring.com
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
>
>
> moonshine or Tequila is clear also! Shine definately will clean that
linseed oil out of the system or clogg it up. Just depends on site and date
of manufacture.
> But seriouisly if you want to mix 50:50 gylcerine to ETOH, you can get 90%
ethyl alcohol for most pharamacies (Rite Aid has it over the counter).
> Don't drink the ethyl alcohol please! You'll go blind!
> Sic
> Doc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >Sent: Oct 15, 2007 9:12 PM
> >To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
<dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >
> >Smirnoff. It's clear. :-)
> >Dennis
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Walter Lannon" <wlannon@persona.ca>
> >To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:12 PM
> >Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Doug;
> >>
> >> If you use Kosher glycerine for the first 50%, what do you use for the
> >> last 50? Jack Daniels or Glenlivet??
> >>
> >> Cheers;
> >> Walt
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Doug Sapp" <rvfltd@televar.com>
> >> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:27 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Guys,
> >>> Glycerin is one of the items used in the preservation of flowers, I
buy
> >>> it in truckload quantities in 55 gallon drums (USP grade), so if
anyone
> >>> wants any just let me know. Heck, I even have a drum of Kosher
glycerin
> >>> which might be preferred by those of you who feel that it is important
to
> >>> have your air line lubricant blessed by a higher power than just your
> >>> A&P. I use it....I need all the help I can get! ;o)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Always Yakin,
> >>> Doug
> >>>
> >>> A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >>>>
> >>>> A 50-50 mixture of glycerin and alcohol is what is recommended.
> >>>> Dennis
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Boede" <jonboede@hotmail.com>
> >>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:53 PM
> >>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I know that people have used Freon detectors since they can be
borrowed
> >>>>> from any number of refrigeration / air-conditioning folks. I know
that
> >>>>> manical L-39 folks have gotten their nitrogen systems to hold for
> >>>>> MONTHS by sniffing things out with a Freon detector.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Alas, my problem is not so subtle. When I turn the main air valve
on,
> >>>>> my front flap valve and my back gear handle hiss noticably. :-(
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Oh well, as Brian points out, I'm embarassingly past all
> >>>>> disassemble-and-clean intervals on my pneumatic system.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Do I really want to fix things up with linseed oil? Anybody have a
> >>>>> better suggestion that will be kind to all the seals in the system?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E"
> >>>>>> <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> >>>>>> Subject: RE: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>> Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:07:20 -0400
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Does anyone remember what types of sniff detectors are out there?
It
> >>>>>> seems to me that one time I saw a really hard to find leak in a
> >>>>>> nitrogen
> >>>>>> line.. They filled the tank with something like Argon, and then
used
> >>>>>> an
> >>>>>> Argon sniff detector that could register detection in some really
loss
> >>>>>> part per million category. This thing could find the breath of an
> >>>>>> ant... As long as the ant farted argon. That kind of device will
find
> >>>>>> the most smallest of leaks out there. I know they also make one for
> >>>>>> Freon, but of course we can't pump that stuff into our tanks! This
> >>>>>> might not be as difficult as it sounds really... I just am not sure
> >>>>>> what
> >>>>>> is out on the market and for how much. Ultrasonic leak detectors
work,
> >>>>>> but take a LOT of time.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Mark Bitterlich
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> >>>>>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Boede
> >>>>>> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 14:50
> >>>>>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >>>>>> Subject: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I still had a minor overall leak in my air system (would take
several
> >>>>>> hours to drop to zero once the master valve was closed) after
> >>>>>> replacing
> >>>>>> my front flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> So I decided to be brilliant and put a couple tablespoons of WD-40
> >>>>>> into
> >>>>>> my air tank.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This seems to have made the problem much, much worse.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I can hear hissing throughout the air system, even at the brand new
> >>>>>> flap
> >>>>>> and gear valves in the front seat, and the system won't charge up
past
> >>>>>> about 25.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have since drained the WD-40 and put a little bit of air tool oil
in
> >>>>>> the main tank and this week I'm going to disassemble the valves,
> >>>>>> starting with the aforementioned brand new flap valve.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Anybody got any suggestions on what I should be looking for,
mistakes
> >>>>>> to
> >>>>>> avoid, or just commiseration? :-)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>> Jon
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
=====================
> ===============
>
>
>
_____
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RPA Checklist |
In a message dated 10/17/2007 4:53:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
cliff@gesoco.com writes:
John,
I agree totally with all below except for one item. At least on the CJ-6
the flaps do not have lock down or lock up. Pressure holds the flaps down as
long as either flap handle is in the down position. The rear handle
(instructors seat) has presidents over the front handle. Put both handles in
the
neutral position, takes pressure off both sides of the actuator. A bungee cord
in the flap area will pull the flap up. At least on the CJ - I am not sure
about the Yak.
One other detail not mention here is that both the gear and flap lines have
small conical washer with a hole about .05 dia. These are usually located in
the lines where B nuts attach to fittings in the wheel wells. For the flap
they are located right where the line attaches to the flap actuator. If you
take off these lines for any reason, it is very easy for these to drop out
un-noticed. The purpose is to meter the out and in flow. These control to
certain extent the rate that gear and flaps retract. Craig Payne went to a
great deal of fiddling to get his gear to retract evenly and at the same time,
just by adjusting the size of these holes. But you still need the air pressure
to work against.
Leaving gear handle in the up position has absolutely no effect on the wear
of seals in the actuator. As a matter of fact, some CJ (mine is one) have no
up locks at all. The only thing that holds the gear up is the pressure in
the system.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
--> Yak-List message posted by: Cliff Coy <cliff@gesoco.com>
John, it sounds like you have the instructors manual, not the pilot's
manual.
In any event, unless the compressor is having real problems, there's no
real reason to return the handles to the neutral position after selection.
It's certainly not going to damage anything to select gear neutral after
the gear is locked up.
The uplocks are mechanical latches and will not release until the gear
is selected down.
The same is true from the flap system- it's mechanically locked in
either position.
If either of these systems allow movement after they've reached the
selected position, then you have a failure of the locking mechanism-
most likely due to corrosion.
Dennis is absolutely correct about air cushioning. The gear system
*requires* pressurization on the opposite side of the actuator to slow
the movement of the gear. DAMAGE WILL RESULT from slamming the gear up
or down. The uplocks take the damage from slamming the gear up- most
notably the nose gear. If the little roller wheel is bent off to the
side, then the gear's been slammed up.
If you or your mechanic is slamming the gear down during the emergency
gear system test....You're doing it wrong! And eventually the system is
going to crack at the actuator attach points.
So before selecting up, select down first and vice versa.....or simply
never leave the handles in the neutral position.
Sure if you're low on air and you want to conserve what you've got for
starting, then go ahead and select the neutral positions *before opening
the main air valve* and that will only allow the air to be used for
starting and brakes.
Just don't forget to select gear down and flaps up after the engine is
running.
If anyone needs a gear swing checklist let me know off list.
Cheers,
Cliff
A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
> <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
>
> John,
> My comments IAW your question numbers -
> 1. The purpose is to check the prop governor's ability to hold a
> constant RPM.
> 2. Do NOT do this! You are 100% correct. If your copy of the manual
> says this, the manual should be changed immediately and you should
> notify the creator of manual that it is wrong.
> 3. Do NOT do this! You are depressurizing the landing gear actuators
> AND the uplock assemblies. Unless you remember to put the gear handle
> BACK to the UP position BEFORE moving the gear handle to the DOWN
> position, the landing gear actuators will slam down. I guarantee it
> WILL get your attention and a neophyte back seater will have the crap
> scared out of them. Keep the gear handle in the UP position but DO NOT
> put the slide lock in place while the gear handle is in the UP
> position during flight. Too many people have lowered the gear handle
> to the neutral position with the slide lock in place and "heard" the
> hiss, thinking the gear was down and locked when in fact, the gear was
> just hanging limp. They also did not check for the green lights and
> assumed the gear was down AND locked because they 1) felt the firm
> stop of the gear handle and 2) heard the hiss of the actuators
> depressurizing. When the prop goes "ding", "ding" on the runway,
> you'll realize you only had the handle in the neutral position and a
> very loud "Oh, SH--" is heard emanating from the cockpit.
>
> As I said, wherever the flight manual is posted, it should have these
> instructions immediately corrected. Especially #3 because it is
> inviting a potential gear up landing.
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Kemp" <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
> To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 1:23 PM
> Subject: RE: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
>
>
>>
>> John,
>> None of that is in my now anciently translated version of the
>> original YAK
>> student pilot's handbook. It says set the prop at full forward and set
>> "advance" (manifold pressure) at 70%, check mags for not greater than 3%
>> drop per side.
>> It only recommends setting the flaps and gear to the neutral position
>> for
>> the cockpit that is not commanding the gear or flaps. It only specifies
>> placing the gear handle in neutral to depressurize the system before
>> blowing the gear down from the emergency system.
>> Have not looked at in a while but that is the best that I remember of
>> it,
>> Doc
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Graham
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:56 PM
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
>>
>>
>> The RPA checklist for a Yak 52 has been a great help to me. I have 3
>> questions:
>>
>> 1. During the run up it states to set the prop at 64% and move the
>> throttle
>> and verify the 64% stays constant. What is the purpose of this.
>>
>> 2. Before take off it states to move the flap handle to Neutral.
>> Won't
>> this depressurize the flap system and slam them down when the flaps are
>> lowered?
>>
>> 3. During climb and after raising the gear, it states to put the gear
>> handle in Neutral. Any reason for this or can it stay in th UP
>> position.
>>
>> Thanks (as always) for the help.
>>
>> John
>> N15YK
>>
Message 21
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| Subject: | air line restrictors |
CJ guys who want to check the number of and the proper location of the
"dampers" (AKA air line restrictors) go to your parts book and look at
pages 280--288. If your manual is translated look in the first column
for the word "damper" get the item # then go to the dwg on page 279 and
locate the number. If your manual is not translated and you don't read
Mandarin go to the part number column and look for H2-5500-02 or H2-5500-19.
As Jim said you can alter the timing of the gear by changing the size of
the hole in the restrictor. Randol Webb was the first to do this back
in 1999. All three of his gear hit the wells at the same time.
Note that there is also a damper in the oil pressure system.
Always Yakin,
Doug
cjpilot710@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/17/2007 4:53:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> cliff@gesoco.com writes:
>
> John,
>
> I agree totally with all below except for one item. At least on the
> CJ-6 the flaps do not have lock down or lock up. Pressure holds the
> flaps down as long as either flap handle is in the down position. The
> rear handle (instructors seat) has presidents over the front handle.
> Put both handles in the neutral position, takes pressure off both
> sides of the actuator. A bungee cord in the flap area will pull the
> flap up. At least on the CJ - I am not sure about the Yak.
>
> One other detail not mention here is that both the gear and flap lines
> have small conical washer with a hole about .05 dia. These are
> usually located in the lines where B nuts attach to fittings in the
> wheel wells. For the flap they are located right where the line
> attaches to the flap actuator. If you take off these lines for any
> reason, it is very easy for these to drop out un-noticed. The purpose
> is to meter the out and in flow. These control to certain extent the
> rate that gear and flaps retract. Craig Payne went to a great deal of
> fiddling to get his gear to retract evenly and at the same time, just
> by adjusting the size of these holes. But you still need the air
> pressure to work against.
>
> Leaving gear handle in the up position has absolutely no effect on the
> wear of seals in the actuator. As a matter of fact, some CJ (mine is
> one) have no up locks at all. The only thing that holds the gear up
> is the pressure in the system.
>
> Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
>
>
>
>
> John, it sounds like you have the instructors manual, not the pilot's
> manual.
>
> In any event, unless the compressor is having real problems,
> there's no
> real reason to return the handles to the neutral position after
> selection.
>
> It's certainly not going to damage anything to select gear neutral
> after
> the gear is locked up.
> The uplocks are mechanical latches and will not release until the
> gear
> is selected down.
> The same is true from the flap system- it's mechanically locked in
> either position.
>
> If either of these systems allow movement after they've reached the
> selected position, then you have a failure of the locking mechanism-
> most likely due to corrosion.
>
> Dennis is absolutely correct about air cushioning. The gear system
> *requires* pressurization on the opposite side of the actuator to
> slow
> the movement of the gear. DAMAGE WILL RESULT from slamming the
> gear up
> or down. The uplocks take the damage from slamming the gear up- most
> notably the nose gear. If the little roller wheel is bent off to the
> side, then the gear's been slammed up.
>
> If you or your mechanic is slamming the gear down during the
> emergency
> gear system test....You're doing it wrong! And eventually the
> system is
> going to crack at the actuator attach points.
>
> So before selecting up, select down first and vice versa.....or
> simply
> never leave the handles in the neutral position.
>
> Sure if you're low on air and you want to conserve what you've got
> for
> starting, then go ahead and select the neutral positions *before
> opening
> the main air valve* and that will only allow the air to be used for
> starting and brakes.
>
> Just don't forget to select gear down and flaps up after the
> engine is
> running.
>
> If anyone needs a gear swing checklist let me know off list.
>
> Cheers,
> Cliff
>
> A. Dennis Savarese wrote:
>
> > <dsavarese@elmore.rr.com>
> >
> > John,
> > My comments IAW your question numbers -
> > 1. The purpose is to check the prop governor's ability to hold a
> > constant RPM.
> > 2. Do NOT do this! You are 100% correct. If your copy of the
> manual
> > says this, the manual should be changed immediately and you should
> > notify the creator of manual that it is wrong.
> > 3. Do NOT do this! You are depressurizing the landing gear
> actuators
> > AND the uplock assemblies. Unless you remember to put the gear
> handle
> > BACK to the UP position BEFORE moving the gear handle to the DOWN
> > position, the landing gear actuators will slam down. I
> guarantee it
> > WILL get your attention and a neophyte back seater will have the
> crap
> > scared out of them. Keep the gear handle in the UP position but
> DO NOT
> > put the slide lock in place while the gear handle is in the UP
> > position during flight. Too many people have lowered the gear
> handle
> > to the neutral position with the slide lock in place and "heard"
> the
> > hiss, thinking the gear was down and locked when in fact, the
> gear was
> > just hanging limp. They also did not check for the green lights
> and
> > assumed the gear was down AND locked because they 1) felt the firm
> > stop of the gear handle and 2) heard the hiss of the actuators
> > depressurizing. When the prop goes "ding", "ding" on the runway,
> > you'll realize you only had the handle in the neutral position
> and a
> > very loud "Oh, SH--" is heard emanating from the cockpit.
> >
> > As I said, wherever the flight manual is posted, it should have
> these
> > instructions immediately corrected. Especially #3 because it is
> > inviting a potential gear up landing.
> > Dennis
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Kemp"
> <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
> > To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 1:23 PM
> > Subject: RE: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
> >
> >
> <viperdoc@mindspring.com>
> >>
> >> John,
> >> None of that is in my now anciently translated version of the
> >> original YAK
> >> student pilot's handbook. It says set the prop at full forward
> and set
> >> "advance" (manifold pressure) at 70%, check mags for not
> greater than 3%
> >> drop per side.
> >> It only recommends setting the flaps and gear to the neutral
> position
> >> for
> >> the cockpit that is not commanding the gear or flaps. It only
> specifies
> >> placing the gear handle in neutral to depressurize the system
> before
> >> blowing the gear down from the emergency system.
> >> Have not looked at in a while but that is the best that I
> remember of
> >> it,
> >> Doc
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
> Graham
> >> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:56 PM
> >> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Yak-List: RPA Checklist
> >>
> <cubflyer1940@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> The RPA checklist for a Yak 52 has been a great help to me. I
> have 3
> >> questions:
> >>
> >> 1. During the run up it states to set the prop at 64% and move
> the
> >> throttle
> >> and verify the 64% stays constant. What is the purpose of this.
> >>
> >> 2. Before take off it states to move the flap handle to Neutral.
> >> Won't
> >> this depressurize the flap system and slam them down when the
> flaps are
> >> lowered?
> >>
> >> 3. During climb and after raising the gear, it states to put
> the gear
> >> handle in Neutral. Any reason for this or can it stay in th UP
> >> position.
> >>
> >> Thanks (as always) for the help.
> >>
> >> John
> >> N15YK
> >>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's new
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 22
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It's of course all a matter of opinion, and of course, it also depends
HUGELY on the pilot.
Still... I'm interested in why you hold that opinion.
Make no mistake, I love my 50, but ....
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Barry Hancock
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 14:22
Subject: Yak-List: -50 v. Su-29
--> <bhancock@worldwidewarbirds.com>
On Oct 16, 2007, at 11:58 PM, Yak-List Digest Server wrote:
> I don't know about that Doc.... Have you ever flown a Sukhoi SU-29?
> It'll eat a YAK-50 for breakfast.
Well, unless you meet at the merge, in which case the -50 is easily the
superior aircraft.
Check six,
Barry
Message 23
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Let me add something to what Walt said if I may. If you have oil
leakage coming out of the prop seals it can also come from a leaking
seal where the oil feed tube is screwed down to the front of the engine.
There is a gasket under where that tube screws down that you can
sometimes get to stop leaking simply by applying more torque to the tube
"nut" (per se). If that fails, you need to replace the gasket.
Doug, do you have these as well? I need one myself!
Mark Bitterlich
N50YK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Lannon
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:13
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Prop seals
The seals are the "chevron" type and tend to lose their set over time.
The Chinese ones seem particularly poor in this regard. The Russian ones
may be better.
The oil leakage you see coming from the hub is in fact coming through
the hub from the pitch change unit. The hub is lubricated by grease and
has blade seals intended to retain the grease. They do not work too well
with oil.
You need to replace the two seals on the pitch change piston. Doug Sapp
will have new ones.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "CJcanuck" <m_kirk69@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:50 AM
Subject: Yak-List: Prop seals
>
> Hi All!
>
> Lately I've noticed an increase in the amount of oil seeping out of
the
> prop hub and down the prop blades after each flight. I've also
started to
> see some splatter on the wings (mainly the left) and the windscreen.
My
> AME feels it's due to the prop seals 'drying out' due to insufficient
> flying.
>
> We are planning on pulling the prop anyways come annual time, but I
was
> wondering if anyone has any other ideas, or ways of keeping the prop
seals
> in good condition during periods of inactivity.
>
> FYI, the prop came from China with zero-time, though from the look of
the
> paint on the blades it's not a new prop unit, just overhauled.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140396#140396
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
You know Brian.... I actually knew that. However, just to prove the point, here
ya go dude.
Prepare a mixture of 200 mL of 98-100% nitric acid and 300 mL of 98-100% sulfuric
acid by slowly adding one to the other in a 1000-mL beaker. Place the beaker
into a salt-ice bath during the mixing so it may cool, allow the temperature
to drop below 10 C after mixing. You can keep the cold acid in the salt-ice
bath or you can transfer the acid mix into a round-bottomed 1000-mL Florence flask
for better heat dispersion. In either case, prepare a fresh salt-ice bath.
Because of the possibility of friction, standard stirring methods are not advised.
Instead, use an aquarium pump to blow air into the acids as a means to
cool and stir them. Regulate the air flow so the acid is being well stirred yet
not spattering out. Using a buret suspended above the flask, very slowly add
drop by drop 112 mL of glycerol that has been previously cooled to 15 C. Carefully
monitor the temperature of the reaction at all times, the temperature must
stay below 20 C, preferably below 15 C for extra safety. If at any time the
temperature goes near this, stop adding glycerin until it cools. You can use
the rate of addition to control the temperature. If the temperature ever rises
above 20 C it is ruined as no more nitro will be made and you are in great danger
of the existing nitro detonating. If the temperature goes above 30 C, there
is a sudden rise in temperature, or a red gas is noticed, DUMP IT INTO COLD
WATER IMMEDIATELY!. Keep a bucket of ice water on hand for this task. After adding
all of the glycerin, allow the temperature to drop to 15 C and sit for 15
minutes. Carefully pour the reaction mix into a large beaker containing an equal
volume of room temperature water. Add this mix to a separatory funnel and
allow the nitroglycerin to settle out, it will form a layer on the bottom of
the funnel. Drain off the nitro layer and keep the acid waste layer for further
extraction. Place the nitro back into a clean separatory funnel and add plenty
of 38-45 C water, mix, then separate. Wash the nitro again, then wash with
a !
warm 4%
sodium carbonate solution. Wash with warm water three more times. Give it a final
wash of concentrated sodium chloride solution, and let it sit one day before
separating the layers. Separate and check the nitro for acidity with litmus
paper. If it is still acidic keep washing. It must be neutral or it will explode.
Dry the neutral nitro over sulfuric acid in a desiccator, this may take several
days. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer
to monitor the temperature.
To extract any nitro that may still be in the waste acid, first neutralize
the acid with sodium carbonate solution. Next add an equal volume of chloroform
to the neutral waste acid. Mix well then place it into the separatory funnel.
Remove the bottom nitro layer and let it stand in the open for one day so the
chloroform may evaporate. Add this nitro to the washing process above.
One unit of glycerol will yield about 2.5 of nitro. Exposure to nitroglycerine
will cause severe headaches. Keep it cool, the warmer it is the more sensitive
it is to detonation. Frozen nitro can not be detonated therefore it is stable
BUT partially frozen nitro is extra sensitive! Although nitroglycerin is
very dangerous when confined, it is merely flammable when spread out in the open
air. Nitroglycerin can be destroyed by boiling in a solution of potassium
or sodium hydroxide and ethyl alcohol.
So Brian, my friend... Is that in enough detail?
Your BUD, Mark.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 23:55
Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
On Oct 16, 2007, at 3:33 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Actually Doc, my advice would be to mix some of that gylcerine with
> high
> grade fuming nitric acid.
There is an intermediate step you forgot. The devil is always in the
details.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Day to Day ops..... |
No, you're right, they don't (have retractable gear). However, they can
pull way way more G than the 50, and in my opinion carry more energy
than the 50. I will say that the ones I have experience with all had
400 HP PF model engines and also the 3 blade MT-9-260's, and my poor 50
was struggling along with 360 HP and a 2 blade. Right there I am pretty
much hosed... But side by side speed comparisons left me in the dust.
The 29 was simply faster. My low speed performance was better than his,
but he never had to GET that low to kick my butt.
Just as a side note, I'll never forget going into the break with Hubie
Tolson on my wing. He was tucked in tight, (on the right) and I mean
RIGHT THERE tucked in. I decided to intentionally lose the guy, and I
left full power on and just pulled as hard as I could after a full
deflection roll to 90 degrees left. I pulled over 7 G's in that break,
and when I rolled level he was RIGHT THERE, laughing his butt off at me.
Of course I am not in the same league with Hubie, but it still amazed
me.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 22:42
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Day to Day ops.....
Yeah but neither the 54 or the 29 fold their feet up. If I am thinking
of the same aircraft.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich,
Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 4:50 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Day to Day ops.....
--> Point,
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
I don't know about that Doc.... Have you ever flown a Sukhoi SU-29?
It'll eat a YAK-50 for breakfast. It does not have the slow speed
handling that the 50 does, but that's because of the wing the 50 has. I
tend to agree with Craig. Further, it has much more fuel... Etc., etc.
On the other hand, there is the matter of price..... Which is going to
be about 5 times that of the 50.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 22:51
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Re: Day to Day ops.....
He'll regret that if he ever flies a 50!
Doc
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Craig Payne
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Re: Day to Day ops.....
>
> He, like everyone else, really needs a -50. He is a retired fighter
> guy and loves the -50 but wants another seat.
>
Sukhoi
Craig Payne
cpayne@joimail.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 26
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Mark,
Yep sure do, it's part number G1-0017, item #3 on page 125 of vol 2 of
the CJ IPBs. It fits just under the oil transfer tube (on your 50 it's
called a "tube nut" I guess) ;o) Contact me off list and I get one
coming your way.
A note to others, recently I have seen no less than three props which
someone had substituted a rubber 0 ring in place of this alu crush
seal. This is a huge No No, on one engine "most" of the 0 ring was
found, on the other only a very small piece. You just gotta
wonder............
Always Yakin,
Doug
Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E wrote:
>
>Let me add something to what Walt said if I may. If you have oil
>leakage coming out of the prop seals it can also come from a leaking
>seal where the oil feed tube is screwed down to the front of the engine.
>There is a gasket under where that tube screws down that you can
>sometimes get to stop leaking simply by applying more torque to the tube
>"nut" (per se). If that fails, you need to replace the gasket.
>
>Doug, do you have these as well? I need one myself!
>
>Mark Bitterlich
>N50YK
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Lannon
>Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 12:13
>To: yak-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Yak-List: Prop seals
>
>
>The seals are the "chevron" type and tend to lose their set over time.
>The Chinese ones seem particularly poor in this regard. The Russian ones
>may be better.
>
>The oil leakage you see coming from the hub is in fact coming through
>the hub from the pitch change unit. The hub is lubricated by grease and
>has blade seals intended to retain the grease. They do not work too well
>with oil.
>
>You need to replace the two seals on the pitch change piston. Doug Sapp
>will have new ones.
>
>Walt
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "CJcanuck" <m_kirk69@hotmail.com>
>To: <yak-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:50 AM
>Subject: Yak-List: Prop seals
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi All!
>>
>>Lately I've noticed an increase in the amount of oil seeping out of
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>prop hub and down the prop blades after each flight. I've also
>>
>>
>started to
>
>
>>see some splatter on the wings (mainly the left) and the windscreen.
>>
>>
>My
>
>
>>AME feels it's due to the prop seals 'drying out' due to insufficient
>>flying.
>>
>>We are planning on pulling the prop anyways come annual time, but I
>>
>>
>was
>
>
>>wondering if anyone has any other ideas, or ways of keeping the prop
>>
>>
>seals
>
>
>>in good condition during periods of inactivity.
>>
>>FYI, the prop came from China with zero-time, though from the look of
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>paint on the blades it's not a new prop unit, just overhauled.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140396#140396
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: pneumatic cancer |
On Oct 17, 2007, at 6:48 AM, Jon Boede wrote:
>
> You know, it's sad that distributing information on that missing
> step is now "terrorism". Sigh.
It is also sad that a girl wearing a circuit board with flashing LEDs
on her jacket and carrying some play-doh is arrested at Boston Logan
for having a simulated bomb. What is even sadder is that most of the
people writing in about it think that the department of homeland
stupidity (DHS) was right-on for arresting her.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
Message 28
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| Subject: | pneumatic cancer |
Oh, it gets worse Brian. Read the last paragraph and you'll see that even carrying
a stereo in a backpack can land you in jail these days. You all look out
for those Zombie Party Terrorists now... Ya hear?
'Zombie Party' Participants Arrested In Mpls.
(AP) Minneapolis Six friends spruced up in fake blood and tattered clothing were
arrested in downtown Minneapolis on suspicion of toting "simulated weapons of
mass destruction."
Police said the group were allegedly carrying bags with wires sticking out, making
it look like a bomb, while meandering and dancing to music as part of a "zombie
dance party" Saturday night.
"They were arrested for behavior that was suspicious and disturbing," said Lt.
Gregory Reinhardt, a police spokesman. Police also said the group was uncooperative
and intimidated people with their "ghoulish" makeup.
One group member said the "weapons" were actually backpacks modified to carry a
homemade stereos and the suspects were jailed without reason.
AND WAIT WAIT..... YOU JUST GOT TO HEAR HOW THE POLICE EXPLAINED THEIR REACTION!
"Given the circumstance of them being uncooperative ... why would you have those
(bags) if not to intimidate people?" said Inspector Janee Harteau. "It's not
a case of (police) overreacting"
NAH, THEY JUST DIDN'T LIKE THAT GOOD OLE ROCK AND ROLL I GUESS......
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 22:14
Subject: Re: Yak-List: pneumatic cancer
On Oct 17, 2007, at 6:48 AM, Jon Boede wrote:
>
> You know, it's sad that distributing information on that missing step
> is now "terrorism". Sigh.
It is also sad that a girl wearing a circuit board with flashing LEDs on her jacket
and carrying some play-doh is arrested at Boston Logan for having a simulated
bomb. What is even sadder is that most of the people writing in about it
think that the department of homeland stupidity (DHS) was right-on for arresting
her.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
- Antoine de Saint-Exupry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
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