Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:09 AM - Hydro-lock (Richard Goode)
2. 10:21 AM - Radiant overhead tube heaters (MarkWDavis)
3. 11:25 AM - Re: Radiant overhead tube heaters (viperdoc)
4. 12:11 PM - Re: Radiant overhead tube heaters (Dennis Von Ruden)
5. 01:40 PM - Re: Radiant overhead tube heaters (Dale)
6. 03:54 PM - Re: Newbie questions (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
7. 04:17 PM - Re: Newbie questions (Brian Lloyd)
8. 05:18 PM - Re: Radiant overhead tube heaters (Kelley Monroe)
9. 07:09 PM - pneumatic abrasotherapy (Jon Boede)
10. 08:21 PM - Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy (ronald wasson)
11. 09:01 PM - Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy (Joe Enzminger)
12. 09:32 PM - Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy (Walter Lannon)
13. 09:41 PM - Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy (Brian Lloyd)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I am probably old and risk-averse, but it does worry me when people have
a hydo-lock; and then simply just replace the piston and probably the
connecting rod.
Clearly in catastrophic cases, the connecting rod will break, and cause
huge damage, but the engine will normally limp along for a few minutes
to get you down.
However in a simple case where the connecting rod is bent, this does
require a great deal of force, and remember that the crank-shaft pinned
is pinned together, and can slightly move when subjected to these kind
of forces. Also the crank-cases themselves can distort and a variety
of related problems.
To my mind there is only one way to do it properly - that is to
disassemble the engine; check the crank-shaft and crank-case for true,
and then reassemble.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Mob: +44 (0) 7768 610389
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Radiant overhead tube heaters |
With winter coming I'm looking for a way to make heat quickly in my hangar.
Does anyone have experience with overhead radiant tube heaters? I'm concerned
about damage to plexiglas and paint. I'm working with a 12' ceiling height.
With the height a YAK stands up off of the floor I'm trying to see how close
the aircraft can be to the radiant heater without having to put a reflective
radiant barrier over surfaces directly below. I like the idea of using outside
air for combustion that can be done with the systems. Thanks for any suggestions.
Mark Davis
N44YK
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141119#141119
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Radiant overhead tube heaters |
Mark,
I have radiant heaters in my hanger. They are suppended at 12 ft (~) from
the ceiling. We park the planes so that the tails are not directly hit by
the heat from them though. Been doing it for the last 4 years this way
without any damage to the skins.
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MarkWDavis
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Radiant overhead tube heaters
With winter coming I'm looking for a way to make heat quickly in my hangar.
Does anyone have experience with overhead radiant tube heaters? I'm
concerned about damage to plexiglas and paint. I'm working with a 12'
ceiling height. With the height a YAK stands up off of the floor I'm trying
to see how close the aircraft can be to the radiant heater without having to
put a reflective radiant barrier over surfaces directly below. I like the
idea of using outside air for combustion that can be done with the systems.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Mark Davis
N44YK
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141119#141119
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Radiant overhead tube heaters |
I live in Minnesota and have radiant heat in my hanger. The building is
60 feet wide and the units were installed approximately 8 feet from the
walls and 15 feet off the floor. Position the reflectors properly and
you should not have any problems. You want to heat the floor material
and create a huge heat sink. There are differences in the systems...you
get what you pay for. It's the only practical way to heat a hanger in
the part of the world.
Dennis Von Ruden
General Equipment Company
507.451.5510 (P)
507.451.5511 (F)
dvonruden@generalequip.com
-----Original Message-----
From: MarkWDavis [mailto:mark@pld.com]
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: Yak-List: Radiant overhead tube heaters
With winter coming I'm looking for a way to make heat quickly in my
hangar. Does anyone have experience with overhead radiant tube
heaters? I'm concerned about damage to plexiglas and paint. I'm
working with a 12' ceiling height. With the height a YAK stands up off
of the floor I'm trying to see how close the aircraft can be to the
radiant heater without having to put a reflective radiant barrier over
surfaces directly below. I like the idea of using outside air for
combustion that can be done with the systems. Thanks for any
suggestions.
Mark Davis
N44YK
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141119#141119
ALL INFORMATION IN THIS EMAIL, AND/OR ATTACHMENT(S) IS CONFIDENTIAL. If you received
this e mail in error, and are not the recipient(s) or responsible for receiving
this e mail for the recipient, please inform the sender immediately, delete
the e mail and any attachment(s) associated. This email has been scanned
by Barracuda - Email Security System.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Radiant overhead tube heaters |
We are in the process of building 30 T hangars and the code will only allow us
to put radiant heat at 10' above the wing or engine whichever is higher. This
has required up to build the walls at 16' to meet code. Insurance companies
also look for code violations when it comes time for settlements.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141167#141167
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Newbie questions |
Many may disagree with what I am about to say. So with that in mind,
let me just add that this is just my personal opinion, and I am NOT a
professional and I have ZERO experience with Housai engines. NADA ZIP
NOTHING
However, I have some experience with M-14 engines. On the M-14, it is
so common I would almost call it predictable that the #2 cylinder always
seems to be the first one that gives the owner some problems. It was
with mine, and it has been on 4 other M-14's that I have dealt with on
my field. I have no idea why that is... Well, I have an IDEA, but it is
totally unproven. Why doesn't matter, it always seems to be the #2.
Once you see #2 acting up, with a few more hundred hours max, you will
typically start to see one of the other top jugs start losing
compression. The lower ones ALWAYS seem to stay right up there at very
high numbers, with 80/80 not being uncommon.
The question is, how important is that one low cylinder when the rest
are up around 80/75 or higher! Maybe not much. However, in my humble
opinion, it does mean that something is not quite right in there. In my
case, when the #2 when down to 80/67, I yanked the jug, and found one
cracked ring, and an exhaust valve not seating. I reground the valve,
did a little honing on the cylinder, replaced the rings and it has been
in the mid 70's ever since (300 hours have gone by since then). Now #9
is acting up. It very slowly has gone down year by year until it is now
about 80/69 or so. I strongly suspect that the exhaust valve in that
one is leaking as well. Is the engine running ok? Yes. Can I notice
any loss of power? No. Do I trust the engine flying it like that?
Certainly. However, next summer, I am going to yank it off and grind the
valve down and take a careful look at the rings. This is not really
that hard of a project. It can be done in one day. Of course, if you
have money, you can toss a brand new cylinder and rings on that bad bear
and be done with it.
Bottom line is that in my experience it is not all that uncommon to see
a "sort of" low #2 cylinder, or M-14's anyway.
On your engine, what matters really is what the OTHER cylinders read.
If they're all around 80/72 or so, and with is down to 80/69, I would
not be at ALL concerned, or even raise an eyebrow. However, if they're
all in the high 80/78 range or so, and just #2 is down around 80/68,
then my guess is that you probably have a little bit of carbon sticking
underneath #2's exhaust valve. You might stake it and see if you get
lucky, but at the very worst... You might have to yank that one jug. In
any case, I would not hesitate to fly it. Another thing to do is to
check the logs and see how fast this one cylinder dropped to that value.
Compare it to last years Conditional Inspection, and the one before
that, etc. If that one cylinder dropped from say 80/76 to 80/68 in 60
hours or so, and the rest are still way up there, I think you can bet
that something is not quite right in that puppy dog. Not getting ready
to spit fire and metal mind you, just not as perfect as I would prefer
on my airplane.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike & Lyne
Bourget
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 19:23
Subject: Yak-List: Newbie questions
Hi,, all
Newbie from Ottawa, I'm a member of RPA and I've flown in "the dragon"
with Dan Fortin. He convinced me <grin> to sell my RV8 project and I'm
now actively looking for a CJ.
I've found a couple I'm very interested and have a couple of questions.
How concerned would you be about an engine with roughly 330 total time,
that has had a hydro lock? It was professinonally repaired with a new
piston, push rods etc.
Also,, a comp on cyl # 2 is 68. Should I be concerned by this low a
reading? It is on the housai.
I'll have lots more questions, and any advice, words of wisdom are
appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Newbie questions |
On Oct 22, 2007, at 3:53 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Many may disagree with what I am about to say. So with that in mind,
> let me just add that this is just my personal opinion, and I am NOT a
> professional and I have ZERO experience with Housai engines. NADA ZIP
> NOTHING
Oh, we don't worry about that here. ;-)
>
> However, I have some experience with M-14 engines. On the M-14, it is
> so common I would almost call it predictable that the #2 cylinder
> always
> seems to be the first one that gives the owner some problems. It was
> with mine, and it has been on 4 other M-14's that I have dealt with on
> my field. I have no idea why that is... Well, I have an IDEA,
I bet it is the hottest (CHT) cylinder.
> but it is
> totally unproven. Why doesn't matter, it always seems to be the #2.
> Once you see #2 acting up, with a few more hundred hours max, you will
> typically start to see one of the other top jugs start losing
> compression. The lower ones ALWAYS seem to stay right up there at
> very
> high numbers, with 80/80 not being uncommon.
That is because the rings sit in oil which always forms a good seal
even if the rings have blowby.
> The question is, how important is that one low cylinder when the rest
> are up around 80/75 or higher! Maybe not much. However, in my humble
> opinion, it does mean that something is not quite right in there.
> In my
> case, when the #2 when down to 80/67, I yanked the jug, and found one
> cracked ring, and an exhaust valve not seating. I reground the valve,
> did a little honing on the cylinder, replaced the rings and it has
> been
> in the mid 70's ever since (300 hours have gone by since then).
> Now #9
> is acting up. It very slowly has gone down year by year until it
> is now
> about 80/69 or so. I strongly suspect that the exhaust valve in that
> one is leaking as well. Is the engine running ok? Yes. Can I notice
> any loss of power? No. Do I trust the engine flying it like that?
> Certainly.
OTOH, a leaking exhaust valve will burn the valve and seat. If it is
a leaky exhaust valve you want to fix it sooner rather than later.
> However, next summer, I am going to yank it off and grind the
> valve down and take a careful look at the rings. This is not really
> that hard of a project. It can be done in one day. Of course, if you
> have money, you can toss a brand new cylinder and rings on that bad
> bear
> and be done with it.
>
> Bottom line is that in my experience it is not all that uncommon to
> see
> a "sort of" low #2 cylinder, or M-14's anyway.
>
> On your engine, what matters really is what the OTHER cylinders read.
> If they're all around 80/72 or so, and with is down to 80/69, I would
> not be at ALL concerned, or even raise an eyebrow. However, if
> they're
> all in the high 80/78 range or so, and just #2 is down around 80/68,
> then my guess is that you probably have a little bit of carbon
> sticking
> underneath #2's exhaust valve. You might stake it and see if you get
> lucky, but at the very worst... You might have to yank that one
> jug. In
> any case, I would not hesitate to fly it. Another thing to do is to
> check the logs and see how fast this one cylinder dropped to that
> value.
> Compare it to last years Conditional Inspection, and the one before
> that, etc. If that one cylinder dropped from say 80/76 to 80/68 in 60
> hours or so, and the rest are still way up there, I think you can bet
> that something is not quite right in that puppy dog. Not getting
> ready
> to spit fire and metal mind you, just not as perfect as I would prefer
> on my airplane.
BTW, don't forget that the ring gaps can line up and cause the
compression to suddenly drop. Fly it for another 5 hours and then
check again. If it comes back up, OK.
Also, when checking compression you have to listen at the air intake
and at the exhaust. If a valve is leaking you will hear it. Don't
leave a leaking valve. It is bad juju. Stake the valve to try to get
it to seal. If it doesn't, fix it now.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Radiant overhead tube heaters |
Dennis: Have you flown your CJ yet? Thanks Kelley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Von Ruden" <dvonruden@generalequip.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:10 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Radiant overhead tube heaters
> <dvonruden@generalequip.com>
>
> I live in Minnesota and have radiant heat in my hanger. The building is
> 60 feet wide and the units were installed approximately 8 feet from the
> walls and 15 feet off the floor. Position the reflectors properly and
> you should not have any problems. You want to heat the floor material
> and create a huge heat sink. There are differences in the systems...you
> get what you pay for. It's the only practical way to heat a hanger in
> the part of the world.
>
> Dennis Von Ruden
> General Equipment Company
> 507.451.5510 (P)
> 507.451.5511 (F)
> dvonruden@generalequip.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MarkWDavis [mailto:mark@pld.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 12:21 PM
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Yak-List: Radiant overhead tube heaters
>
>
> With winter coming I'm looking for a way to make heat quickly in my
> hangar. Does anyone have experience with overhead radiant tube
> heaters? I'm concerned about damage to plexiglas and paint. I'm
> working with a 12' ceiling height. With the height a YAK stands up off
> of the floor I'm trying to see how close the aircraft can be to the
> radiant heater without having to put a reflective radiant barrier over
> surfaces directly below. I like the idea of using outside air for
> combustion that can be done with the systems. Thanks for any
> suggestions.
>
> Mark Davis
> N44YK
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141119#141119
>
>
> ALL INFORMATION IN THIS EMAIL, AND/OR ATTACHMENT(S) IS CONFIDENTIAL. If
> you received this e mail in error, and are not the recipient(s) or
> responsible for receiving this e mail for the recipient, please inform the
> sender immediately, delete the e mail and any attachment(s) associated.
> This email has been scanned by Barracuda - Email Security System.
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | pneumatic abrasotherapy |
I have some old QSF-2A valves from my gear and flaps and I thought I'd
rehabilitate them.
Ha. Ha ha ha. hahahahaha
So I sat down with a mirror (for its flatness) and sand and emery paper
running from 230 grit all the way up to 1500.
By hand I polished the internal surfaces of both items to an absolutely
MIRROR finish. As a final step I used metal polish on linen paper.
I worked up a little test setup with a scuba bottle and regulator.
Still leaks. It holds to about 60 or 70 psi and then hisses. At 200-300
psi it hisses like crazy.
I spent HOURS doing this. It's now a matter of HONOR. :-)
Any suggestions? As far as I can tell, the two surfaces are flawlessly flat
(well, as far as I can tell) to nearly the microscopic level. I even put
a few drops of mineral oil to see if that helped. Nope.
I can't let this stoopid (yes, with Two O's) thing beat me... help! :-)
Jon
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy |
Get new ones and save your time for parts can't be found. I have been
thru this many times with old cars. If a new part is around it is
always cheaper in the long run.
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy |
I'm no expert, Jon, but you [i]might[/i] have too much time on your hands.
Joe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141241#141241
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy |
Jon;
These surfaces must be "flawlessly flat". The only possible way to achieve
that by hand is with a precision lapping table, fine lapping compound and an
understanding of lapping procedures.
A mirror, for this purpose, is not flat. Paper backed abrasive sheet, even
the best 3M wet-or- dry, is not suitable. Sand and emery paper ( I am sure
you meant wet-or dry) is pretty much guaranteed to destroy the surface.
If you have access to a very good machine shop you could have them re-ground
and lapped but I expect it would be expensive.
Cheers;
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Boede" <jonboede@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 7:09 PM
Subject: Yak-List: pneumatic abrasotherapy
>
> I have some old QSF-2A valves from my gear and flaps and I thought I'd
> rehabilitate them.
>
> Ha. Ha ha ha. hahahahaha
>
> So I sat down with a mirror (for its flatness) and sand and emery paper
> running from 230 grit all the way up to 1500.
>
> By hand I polished the internal surfaces of both items to an absolutely
> MIRROR finish. As a final step I used metal polish on linen paper.
>
> I worked up a little test setup with a scuba bottle and regulator.
>
> Still leaks. It holds to about 60 or 70 psi and then hisses. At 200-300
> psi it hisses like crazy.
>
> I spent HOURS doing this. It's now a matter of HONOR. :-)
>
> Any suggestions? As far as I can tell, the two surfaces are flawlessly
> flat (well, as far as I can tell) to nearly the microscopic level. I
> even put a few drops of mineral oil to see if that helped. Nope.
>
> I can't let this stoopid (yes, with Two O's) thing beat me... help! :-)
>
> Jon
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: pneumatic abrasotherapy |
On Oct 22, 2007, at 7:09 PM, Jon Boede wrote:
> I spent HOURS doing this. It's now a matter of HONOR. :-)
>
> Any suggestions? As far as I can tell, the two surfaces are
> flawlessly flat (well, as far as I can tell) to nearly the
> microscopic level. I even put a few drops of mineral oil to see
> if that helped. Nope.
Once there is enough wear the clearances go up so that the o-ring can
squirm out of the way rather than stay where it is supposed to. You
can win this one unless you weld it up and machine it down again.
Yeah, like you are going to do that.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupry
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|