Today's Message Index:
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1. 11:30 AM - LOL (Jim Bernier)
2. 01:34 PM - Re: Heating (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
3. 05:53 PM - 1996 Yak-52 for sale (Steve Wieland)
Message 1
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Gents
I have applied for my revised LOL and received it very quickly. I have not
signed it. (Didn't need to meet with him face to face. Sent by certified
mail.) However, with the deletion of the proficiency area, it appears that
I am confined to flights to listed events and maintenance. There is no
mention of proficiency flying. Could anyone send a copy of their new and
improved LOL (something that they are happy with) to jbernier@dart.org
.
Thanks, Jim B
Message 2
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Exact same brand as I use, and I highly endorse them as well. Been on
for years now without a problem.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Herb Coussons
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 23:13
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Heating
I meant to say "not concerned about condensation"
herb
On Dec 4, 2007, at 6:14 PM, Herb Coussons wrote:
i have added the heat pads to the Yak 52 and the 55. The
company is EZ Heat in Chetek, WI http://www.e-zheat.com/
The model 540 is a 2 pad system for the oil tank and the model
?154 is for the sump. With both plugged in and a blanket over the cowl
- I had to move the 55 about 100NM flight yesterday. Surface temp 7
degrees F with wind blowing 15 gusts 24 and light snow. I preped the
plane in the hanger ( the cowl and the engine itself was quite warm)
and rolled her out then cranked within 5 mins. Within 5-10 mins the
CHTs were 180 degress and the oil temp was 60 degrees. The pads really
work well and with the heat they put out at a constant rate I would be
concerned about condensation. I am very happy with the units. If I
keep the Wilga they will go on there also.
The cost was about 280$ for the pads.
Herb
On Dec 4, 2007, at 3:56 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry
Point, MALS-14 64E wrote:
Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Hi Jan,
1. before startup, we eventually heat the oil
with a small electrical
"spiral" device (the things used for heating water in a
cup). I
personally turn the prop AT LEAST 25 blades; prime left
and right 4
times, pull the prop 5 or 6 blades; prime again the
cylinders 2 to 3
times; the engine usually fires after I saw moving three
to four blades
(three-bladed prop).
I've read some negative comments about directly heating
oil with a
device that actually goes into the oil itself to heat
it. As memory
serves, it had something to do with condensation. I
can't swear to that
though! Personally I use electric heating "pads" that
are placed on the
exterior of the oil tank and heat the whole tank. I do
not have one,
but if you were to do this the RIGHT way, you'd also add
one of these
pads to the engine oil sump, and if you were REALLY
concerned, put one
somehow on the oil cooler. In North Carolina it simply
never gets that
cold really, so I have been fine with just heating the
oil tank itself.
Oil in cylinders when it is cold is a serious problem in
that it simply
doesn't want to come out very easily. Especially true
as well in the
intake tubes. This seems to be more of a problem in the
50 than the 52
... Due to tilt? Maybe. Anyway, I usually pull about
4-5 blades and
then prime a little simply because the gas tends to mix
with the oil,
thin it and then allow it to drain out easier. This is
a personal
preference and is not based on any expert input. I then
pull it through
a whomp more times (as you suggested) then prime the
crap out of it
again, pull it through another couple of blades and
start. Pretty much
the same sequence as yourself. I have an intake drain
kit installed.
When I prime the engine I want to see the extra fuel
come out of that
tube. Having that makes it pretty much impossible to
over-prime.
2. at startup, the prop control is fully fine
(governor control lever
completely to the front),
Yep.
3. when engine started, I let it run at 42 %
(with throttle control
very slowly up until 40 or 42 % is reached, prop all
this time full
fine) until the proper temperatures are reached.
Ok.
4. then I taxi to the holding point, prop still
full fine, but reducing
the throttle a lot less than 40 %,just above idle,
otherwise my Yak 50
rolls too fast
Ok
5. run-up tests: check first if the engine still has the
proper
temperatures (oil above 40 degrees, CHT at 150 degrees);
then throttle
up to 70 % for the magneto checks, and then 3 times
governor control by
pulling back and forth the prop lever; not too fast, but
firmly (with
the Extra 300 that I may fly, the owner asked me to do
this prop checks
very quickly because they only have to take away the air
bubbles in the
governor; he got this advise when he bought his Extra
300 new from the
factory; I suppose this makes sense for his specific
governor
mechanism).
The prop check for the YAK aircraft is different. They
want you to set
a certain RPM and then pull the prop lever full aft and
see that it
holds a certain RPM. It is not a cycle back and
forward, repeat three
times deal, but I can not address which way is better.
I will say that
I think you should hold it back to try and get warm oil
into the prop
itself and that quick cycling MAY not do that. Again, I
really am not
sure.
6. at take-off, my prop control is full fine,
and I SLOWLY advance the
throttle to full power, so having the Yak 50 roll
smoothly. I don't push
the stick forward, but keep it in the middle, slightly
back, so that the
plane gets airborne from the three wheels at the same
time. Then I lower
the nose, gear up, let speed go up; when at 500 feet, I
reduce the RPM
to 82 % but leave the throttle full open. In cruise
flight, I always
have the prop/throttle settings slightly "oversquare"
i.e. 70 % prop, 75
throttle or 60/65.
Each person has his or her own method for the above. I
really am not
going to say "right or wrong" with anything you say. It
obviously works
and I do much the same myself. Especially with the RPM
method you just
mentioned.
7. in final approach, I have the prop control at
70 % and use the
throttle (and nose position and trim) to establish the
correct speed
(145 to 150 km/h, is what I need for a good
three-pointer). I aim for
the numbers, and just above the numbers, I have the
throttle completely
idle.
When landing, I always have the prop control full
forward. I only put
it there after the gear is down and I am slowed to near
approach speed.
THEN I push the prop full forward. Doing it that way
keeps the prop
from reversing the load on the thrust bearing, and also
has me
completely prepared for a go around.
8. for run-down, I advance the throttle a bit, I
put the prop governor
again at fully fine, and the throttle to 65 %, have it
scavenge the oil
for 25 seconds, then I pull back the throttle to 43 %,
shut down the
magneto's and immediately I advance the throttle fully.
(in my
experience this helps to avoid big flames at the exhaust
pipes; I've
seen this on several engines).
I do much the same, but reduce to idle before killing
the mags... I
believe your methods are so close to what the book calls
for that there
is not reason to concern yourself in any way Jan. Just
my 2 cents. -= -- Please Support Your Lists (And Get
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Message 3
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| Subject: | 1996 Yak-52 for sale |
398 TTA&E NDH...Grey camo..see trade-a-Plane add...contact me off
list...704-987-3155...Steve "Wheels' Wieland N42SW
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