Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:02 AM - Re: Re: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! (Genzlinger, Reade)
2. 10:34 AM - approved alternator conversion (was: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! ) (Brian Lloyd)
3. 11:48 AM - Re: Re: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
4. 12:09 PM - Re: Re: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! (Genzlinger, Reade)
5. 12:40 PM - Re: Re: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! (Wesley Warner)
6. 03:43 PM - Re: Recommendation for M-14P, Inc (Tim Gagnon)
7. 03:52 PM - M14PF Electric start on e bay (N395V)
8. 05:03 PM - Re: Re: Recommendation for M-14P, Inc (doug sapp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
Hi Doc -
Yeah - we're deep into all of that now. Interestingly enough, only
certain parts of the system are "Russian" - a good number of parts, like
all the relays, are quite different from what's in my Yak. As many of
you probably know, the AI-14 engine that the Wilga's use was the
original engine in the CJ's. It was fairly quickly changed to the
285hp.
Reade Genzlinger
Cairnwood Cooperative Corporation
mailto:readeg@cairnwood.com
215.914.0370
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp
M.D.
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:56 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: RE: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion!
<viperdoc@mindspring.com>
I do not know much about the Wilga but does it have a power distribution
panel? Does it have BNP 200? Where are your Russian fuses mounted. I
would
take them out of the circuit and ohm them out. Particularly the 30 amp
fuse
inline with the carbon pile regulator and the BNP 200. Mark B+9 can help
with this one a bunch. He helped me.
Doc
Message 2
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| Subject: | approved alternator conversion (was: Yak-List - It's a Mark |
& Brian discussion! )
> Can't
> change out the generator - it's licensed in the normal category so I
> don't think I can go the alternator route (i.e. no approved
> alternators
> for this application).
Getting a one-time STC for something like this is usually not too much
trouble. In fact, it would probably be pretty easy to get something
that already has an STC on something else to be approved.
Hmm, how many normal-category aircraft are certified with an M14 in
them? I was going to suggest that you start with the B&C but given
just how much the FAA hates Bill Bainbridge, I bet you would have a
hard time getting a one-time approval to retrofit with that.
Still, it is worthwhile to talk to the engineering guys at the local
FSDO. Occasionally you find someone who has a clue and would be
willing to work with you. After all, alternators are not something new
to the FAA.
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brianl AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
Reade, is the system on the Wilga anything like the YAK's and Sukes? I
would think that it is. Steps to consider:
1. Make sure your generator really is off-line. Just because a light
stays on and does not go out, does not necessarily mean your generator
is not working. If you have a volt meter installed, or an ammeter...
Check that and see if you can see the voltage increase, or... The
current change with engine RPM.
2. Pull the cowl and look inside of the generator and make sure it
actually moves as you pull the prop through. The generator is built
with a shaft that is intended to shear on certain loads. Yours could
have sheared. Have someone pull the prop through as you look at the
insides very closely.
3. Somehow connect a voltmeter to the two main contacts on the
generator, leaving all the normal wiring in place. Be wary of alligator
clips, they tend to blow off. Start the engine and be very careful of
watching exactly what the voltmeter is doing. If it climbs to 28 volts
(+/- 1 or so) and then stabilizes and goes no higher as you increase
engine RPM past 60%, then your generator and voltage regulator are ok.
This is a critical step and from here the path splits in two directions.
A. Your main contactor is not pulling in, and this requires a whole
series of testing steps, and will probably result in a device called the
"Combined Device" being bad.
B. The generator itself is bad.
This is enough to get you started... Sort of.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Genzlinger,
Reade
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 21:14
Subject: Yak-List: RE: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion!
--> <ReadeG@Cairnwood.com>
OK - you guys jinxed me - all this talk about generators has done me in.
I go to fly the Wilga yesterday - first time in ages - she fires up -
good, go to warm up speed and generator comes on line - good, taxi
around and go to low idle - generator goes offline - good, bring rpm
back up and oops - no generator! Go low idle and back to high idle -
nothing. Reset generator switch - nothing. Cycle overvoltage
protection - nothing. Cycle low voltage circuit - nothing. Shut
down/restart - no change. So, now I get to do the generator trouble
shoot thing and I hope I have what I need in the spares kits. Can't
change out the generator - it's licensed in the normal category so I
don't think I can go the alternator route (i.e. no approved alternators
for this application). And it was the first nice day in ages - oh
well....
BTW - after reading the hours of stuff you guys put out I believe I'm
ready for the generator/alternator CEU test. How much credit is it
worth?
Signed,
I like fixing most everything except the stuff with wires.
Reade Genzlinger
Cairnwood Cooperative Corporation
mailto:readeg@cairnwood.com
215.914.0370
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
Reade, is the system on the Wilga anything like the YAK's and Sukes? I
would think that it is. Steps to consider:
1. Make sure your generator really is off-line. Just because a light
stays on and does not go out, does not necessarily mean your generator
is not working. If you have a volt meter installed, or an ammeter...
Check that and see if you can see the voltage increase, or... The
current change with engine RPM.
[Reade Genzlinger] Checked and no change in volts or amps.
2. Pull the cowl and look inside of the generator and make sure it
actually moves as you pull the prop through. The generator is built
with a shaft that is intended to shear on certain loads. Yours could
have sheared. Have someone pull the prop through as you look at the
insides very closely.
[Reade Genzlinger] Will do.
3. Somehow connect a voltmeter to the two main contacts on the
generator, leaving all the normal wiring in place. Be wary of alligator
clips, they tend to blow off. Start the engine and be very careful of
watching exactly what the voltmeter is doing. If it climbs to 28 volts
(+/- 1 or so) and then stabilizes and goes no higher as you increase
engine RPM past 60%, then your generator and voltage regulator are ok.
This is a critical step and from here the path splits in two directions.
[Reade Genzlinger] OK - will do.
A. Your main contactor is not pulling in, and this requires a whole
series of testing steps, and will probably result in a device called the
"Combined Device" being bad.
[Reade Genzlinger] We suspect the relay and I am waiting to hear from my
mechanic on this one.
B. The generator itself is bad.
[Reade Genzlinger] naw - we won't go there (yet)......
This is enough to get you started... Sort of.
[Reade Genzlinger] Thanks - as you may know - there is NO room to work
on anything from the instrument panel forward on a Wilga.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Yak-List - It's a Mark & Brian discussion! |
Reade,
I'm no expert with this kind of thing, and don't know the Wilga
wiring. That being said... I had a Yak 55M that had a similar thing
happen. My Yak had a large-ish electrical box behind the instrument
panel that housed relays etc... I opened that box and found one of
the larger wires had broken at the terminal. It was a fast easy fix.
Just figured I'd pass that along.
Wes
On Mon, Feb 25, 2008 at 9:13 PM, Genzlinger, Reade <ReadeG@cairnwood.com> wrote:
>
> OK - you guys jinxed me - all this talk about generators has done me in.
> I go to fly the Wilga yesterday - first time in ages - she fires up -
> good, go to warm up speed and generator comes on line - good, taxi
> around and go to low idle - generator goes offline - good, bring rpm
> back up and oops - no generator! Go low idle and back to high idle -
> nothing. Reset generator switch - nothing. Cycle overvoltage
> protection - nothing. Cycle low voltage circuit - nothing. Shut
> down/restart - no change. So, now I get to do the generator trouble
> shoot thing and I hope I have what I need in the spares kits. Can't
> change out the generator - it's licensed in the normal category so I
> don't think I can go the alternator route (i.e. no approved alternators
> for this application). And it was the first nice day in ages - oh
> well....
>
> BTW - after reading the hours of stuff you guys put out I believe I'm
> ready for the generator/alternator CEU test. How much credit is it
> worth?
>
> Signed,
>
> I like fixing most everything except the stuff with wires.
>
>
> Reade Genzlinger
> Cairnwood Cooperative Corporation
> mailto:readeg@cairnwood.com
> 215.914.0370
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Recommendation for M-14P, Inc |
The tailwheel actuator end cap was replaced and done so in the nick of time. Had
I waited any longer, I would have had big problems.
I also had new FWD end caps made on the mains. One had been JB welded by the previous
owner and it finally failed and started to leak. The boys in AZ machined
two new ones for me and they are NICE!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166459#166459
Message 7
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| Subject: | M14PF Electric start on e bay |
M14PF 400HP electric Start for sale on e bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/M14PF-400-HP-electric-start-Radial-Engine-83hrs-TT_W0QQitemZ230226868438QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230226868438
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166464#166464
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Recommendation for M-14P, Inc |
Tim and other 50 drivers,
I don't think the 50's actuators differ from the Yak 18, I discovered that
the main gear actuator on the 18 is the same as the nose gear actuator on
the CJ6 except for the placement of the diverter valve.
I stock the US made 4140 end caps which come with the new bearings pressed
in. I also have most if not all of the proper square cut 0 rings. Round
profile 0 rings will work but not as long or as well as the square cut 0
rings.
On Tue, Feb 26, 2008 at 3:39 PM, Tim Gagnon <NiftyYak50@fuse.net> wrote:
>
> The tailwheel actuator end cap was replaced and done so in the nick of
> time. Had I waited any longer, I would have had big problems.
>
> I also had new FWD end caps made on the mains. One had been JB welded by
> the previous owner and it finally failed and started to leak. The boys in AZ
> machined two new ones for me and they are NICE!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166459#166459
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
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