Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:10 AM - Vertical Rolls (Drew)
2. 10:22 AM - Metal Lathe for Sale (Ernest Martinez)
3. 12:41 PM - CJ Flap problem (Jay McIntyre)
4. 01:21 PM - Re: CJ Flap problem (A. Dennis Savarese)
5. 01:26 PM - Re: CJ Flap problem (doug sapp)
6. 01:34 PM - Re: Vertical roll (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
7. 02:36 PM - Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication ()
8. 02:57 PM - Re: Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication (Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E)
9. 03:03 PM - Re: Vertical roll (Herb Coussons)
10. 03:22 PM - Vertical Roll (Paul Dumoret)
11. 07:45 PM - Re: Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication (Roger Kemp M.D.)
Message 1
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I would call Alex Land and discuss, he is more "gabby" talking aero in the CJ ;)
Drew
You can also reach me at lacloudchaser@gmail.com
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Metal Lathe for Sale |
For any of you local Florida guys. I have my JET 1340GHB Metal lathe
and accesories for sale excellent deal.
Contact me off list for more info.
Ernie
Message 3
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Hi all.
I have been having an intermittant flap problem as follows:
Occasionally when putting the flaps down they exptend partially and then
stop. Air continues to vent from the front cockpit flap selector. It is
almost like there is a leak across the actuator seals and the air load on
the flap itself is equalising with the air across the actuator piston.
However, if the rear cockpit lever is selected down then the flaps work
normally - full extension and no leaks. The flaps will then work normally
with the front selector for a few extensions and then the original problem
will occur again.
Sometime ago I replaced both flap system shuttle valves and this cured the
problem for some 12 months or so. Just recently I changed out the front flap
selector, but this seems to have had no effect.
So, where to now? I suspect the shuttle valves again, but getting the damn
things apart is such a drama!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I do not believe the problem to
be in the flap actuator itself.
Regards, Jay
New Zealand
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Flap problem |
Did you replace the rear cockpit flap selector? If not, I would
seriously consider replacing it or having it properly overhauled.
Remember, with the rear flap selector in neutral, air pressure passes
through the rear selector to the front, giving control to the front
selector. If the rear selector is leaking, even if it is in neutral, it
will cause the air pressure to bleed off going to the flap actuator.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay McIntyre
To: yak list
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 2:37 PM
Subject: Yak-List: CJ Flap problem
Hi all.
I have been having an intermittant flap problem as follows:
Occasionally when putting the flaps down they exptend partially and
then stop. Air continues to vent from the front cockpit flap selector.
It is almost like there is a leak across the actuator seals and the air
load on the flap itself is equalising with the air across the actuator
piston.
However, if the rear cockpit lever is selected down then the flaps
work normally - full extension and no leaks. The flaps will then work
normally with the front selector for a few extensions and then the
original problem will occur again.
Sometime ago I replaced both flap system shuttle valves and this cured
the problem for some 12 months or so. Just recently I changed out the
front flap selector, but this seems to have had no effect.
So, where to now? I suspect the shuttle valves again, but getting the
damn things apart is such a drama!
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I do not believe the
problem to be in the flap actuator itself.
Regards, Jay
New Zealand
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Flap problem |
Jay,
I have developed the tools to correctly disassemble both types of the
diverter valves without breaking them or crushing the bodies out of round.
Most of the div valve problems I have seen stem from rusty springs, out of
round due to crushing during disasembly, and of course just plain old gunk
in the air system binding up the shuttle.
You are correct, about the "drama", and until I built the proper tooling I
destroyed a few myself. Send me your valves and I will overhaul them with *new
shuttles*, *seals* and the *new style stainless steel springs*. Note that I
now also have stainless steel springs for the check valves.
If your pneumatic system is clean and you are maintaining your desiccant
filter, the new overhauled valves with stainless springs should last a long
long time. However if your system is full of gunk, no amount of overhauling
is going to help you much long term until you get it 100% cleaned out.
I also doubt that your problem is in your actuator, or the cockpit valve
(QSF2A). If you have loose gunk moving in your system you might just have a
plugged air line restrictor, but my first choice would be to look at the div
valve if that fixed the problem last time.
Good luck,
On Thu, Mar 13, 2008 at 12:37 PM, Jay McIntyre <cjaviator@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all.
> I have been having an intermittant flap problem as follows:
> Occasionally when putting the flaps down they exptend partially and then
> stop. Air continues to vent from the front cockpit flap selector. It is
> almost like there is a leak across the actuator seals and the air load on
> the flap itself is equalising with the air across the actuator piston.
> However, if the rear cockpit lever is selected down then the flaps work
> normally - full extension and no leaks. The flaps will then work normally
> with the front selector for a few extensions and then the original problem
> will occur again.
> Sometime ago I replaced both flap system shuttle valves and this cured the
> problem for some 12 months or so. Just recently I changed out the front flap
> selector, but this seems to have had no effect.
> So, where to now? I suspect the shuttle valves again, but getting the damn
> things apart is such a drama!
> Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I do not believe the problem to
> be in the flap actuator itself.
>
> Regards, Jay
> New Zealand
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 6
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Thanks to both Herb and Scott for excellent corrections and additional advice.
Like I said, while I do love Aerobatics, I am no where near as good as most people
on this list.
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Herb Coussons
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 21:17
Subject: Re: Yak-List: Vertical roll
Mark,
Excellent and exactly on !!
The key to the vertical roll is the perfect zero G line. Not positive or negative.
and wingtips even, as the plane slows more left rudder is needed and as the
plane enters the first 1/4 loop gyroscopic force has to be countered. If the
plane hits the perfect vertical line the roll is as simple of an aileron roll
as possible. Rolling to the right is easier on the up and down line. The
elevator controls load and the rudder controls yaw. If these are on there is
no adverse yaw due to the roll.
You can cheat a little to nail the vertical line by pulling with the right wing
slightly low (right roll) now you correct on the way up with the left rudder.
At zero airspeed almost all of the left foot is in and when you alternate and
stand on the right rudder the pivot is amazingly sharp and fast !!
The hint about the humpty below 50 knots is perfect - pumping the elevator provides
enough airflow to complete the rotation at the top without a stall.
To stall inverted the plane must start over on its back, then push the stick forward
= inverted stall. If either foot is heavy on a rudder = inverted spin.
If the power is on and outspin aileron is entered = inverted flat spin. So it
takes some effort to put the Yak into an inverted flat spin. And to recover,
power off and neutralize the controls - if you have enough altitude it will
recover nose down.
It is my understanding that besides a CG forward of the center of lift, minimal
fuel load in the wings is critical. If either upright or inverted spin is allowed
to fully develop into autorotation and the fuel load is such that inertia
moves the mass of the plane outboard, there may not be enough rudder to recover.
Fly Safe
Herb
On Mar 12, 2008, at 4:52 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> I'm curious... And this is kind of off the subject line. I infer
> from what Brian said that the rudder control on a CJ is not all that
> powerful. I do not know this, I have never flown a CJ in my life,
> so I am not bad mouthing anything. However, I am curious how many
> pilots here have worked with the elevator doing humpty-bumps on the
> vertical line?
>
> As far as vertical rolls go, the real trick of these is to...
> Well... To get VERTICAL in the first place. Step two is to learn
> how to watch your wingtips and learn how to use your rudder to KEEP
> the vertical line by comparing wingtip placement compared to the
> horizon. A perfect vertical roll is something you kind of feel in
> your butt when you get it really nailed. Sadly, doing rolls going
> down is a totally different experience than doing them going up. A
> lot of that has to do with where you end up focusing your eyes.
>
> Brian mentions maintaining enough airspeed that the rudder still
> works in a CJ. Being the nit-picker that I am, in a true
> hammerhead, you do not have enough airspeed for the rudder to work
> at all, or the ailerons for that matter. What gives the rudder
> control authority at all is the fact that the engine is creating air
> flow past the rudder giving it enough control authority to commence
> the hammerhead. A true hammerhead is a pivot on a point with very
> little forward aircraft motion, and if done perfectly... About zero
> forward energy. If you start a hammerhead too early with forward
> speed, you will ARC through the turn and not pivot. Again, knowing
> nothing about a CJ, I differ to people who have flown it to know
> what is necessary to do what. That said, in most aerobatic aircraft
> that I have flown, I practice zero airspeed recoveries on the
> vertical line. Anyone that decides to attempt a vertical roll is
> probably going to sooner or later run out of airspeed while still in
> the vertical. Contrary to some belief, airplanes don't really like
> to tail slide. If you get into the vertical and realize you have
> run out of airspeed and ideas at about the same time, there are many
> thoughts on how to recover, from letting go of everything, to many
> other ways. My personal way is to try and force the hammerhead and
> leave power on. However if you really are out of ideas and totally
> unsure of what to do next, I would pull the power to idle and hold
> it there. Neutralize everything and then just hang on for the
> ride. In many cases, it is just fun to do that and see what happens
> anyway. It is a great confidence builder to know that the airplane
> will recover itself even after you have run out of great ideas. It
> is life preserving to be damn sure your aircraft is within CG limits
> before doing this by the way.
>
> On the same topic is a humpty-bump when you go up in a vertical line
> and use elevator to more or less... Half loop it, right over the
> top, and then head straight down again. The interesting thing here
> is the speed that you can do this, which in many cases is much less
> than you might imagine. There is a trick. You start this maneuver
> on a vertical up line, and then pull into a half loop ending up
> going straight down, hold the line, then recover. On the second
> attempt, hold the vertical line a little longer... Lose more
> airspeed, and continue as before. Do it again, even LESS airspeed.
>
> Sooner or later you will slow to the point that when you pull back
> on the stick, you will feel it become loose in your hands... Which
> at this point you have actually detached the air flow over the
> surface of the elevator. Quickly push the stick forward again, and
> then pull it back again ... Once more you will get some aircraft
> movement and then it will stop as the stick comes loose in your
> hands. Do this, in what looks like a rapid push forward, a pull
> back, then a rapid push forward again... In a very fast kind of
> pumping motion. What you are doing is pulling back to airflow
> detachment, then pushing it forward to re-attach air flow and then
> pulling back until it breaks flow again, and then repeating. This
> can allow you to pull over the top of a vertical line and regain a
> downward line at a much slower speed than you would have ever
> believed possible. Sergei Boriak taught me this. It works.
>
> I usually limit my input to electrical stuff. I am not a really
> great aerobatic pilot... But I hang out with some really good
> ones! :-)
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> N50YK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 14:56
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Vertical roll
>
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2008, at 6:37 AM, fougapilot wrote:
>
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I remember reading in an very very old copy of "Warbird Flyers" (the
>> predecessor to RedAlert) about someone doing a vertical roll with a
>> CJ.
>>
>> Does anyone here ever did one and would like to share their tips/
>> techniques?
>>
>> I know, I know the Yak can do it...bla, bla, bla. I don't want to
>> fuel
>> the already heated who's better discussion, just looking for tips on
>> how to fly MY airplane better. [Laughing]
>
> How many degrees of roll do you want? I think you would be very hard
> pressed to reach 360 degrees of roll on an up-line before running
> out of airspeed. I have done partial rolls (90 degrees and
> occasionally 180 degrees) but one needs to maintain enough airspeed
> that the rudder still works. With the CJ that is pretty tough.
>
> --
> Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
> brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
> +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
>
> I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty
> things . . .
> - Antoine de Saint-Exupry
>
> PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
> PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A
> 1B6C
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication |
High All,
I'm having trouble with a Gen Fail Indication on my '52. I was running on
the ground in the RPM ranges where the gen should have been on line and the
gen fail light was flickering. I shut down and checked with my local guru
who warned me of wire chaffing on the voltage regulator damper plate. I did
find a wire that was on it's way to being chaffed but that didn't seem to be
all the way through the sheath. I repaired the wire, reconnected the
voltage regulator and ran the engine. Much to my dismay the gen fail light
is now on all the time. I checked the reset button on the voltage gadget
box on the firewall above the voltage regulator, it had not been tripped. I
also opened he circuit box on the right side behind the access panel and saw
no smoking guns. Any help or suggestions as to what could be the culprit
would be greatly appreciated!
Scott
N8252
Message 8
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| Subject: | Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication |
Contact me at 252-671-7005
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
scott.glaser@thedefiantcompany.com
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 17:33
Subject: Yak-List: Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication
High All,
I'm having trouble with a Gen Fail Indication on my '52. I was running
on the ground in the RPM ranges where the gen should have been on line
and the gen fail light was flickering. I shut down and checked with my
local guru who warned me of wire chaffing on the voltage regulator
damper plate. I did find a wire that was on it's way to being chaffed
but that didn't seem to be all the way through the sheath. I repaired
the wire, reconnected the voltage regulator and ran the engine. Much to
my dismay the gen fail light is now on all the time. I checked the
reset button on the voltage gadget box on the firewall above the voltage
regulator, it had not been tripped. I also opened he circuit box on the
right side behind the access panel and saw no smoking guns. Any help or
suggestions as to what could be the culprit would be greatly
appreciated!
Scott
N8252
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical roll |
And I'll leave the electrical issues to you guys !!
On Mar 13, 2008, at 3:31 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:
> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>
> Thanks to both Herb and Scott for excellent corrections and
> additional advice. Like I said, while I do love Aerobatics, I am no
> where near as good as most people on this list.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Herb Coussons
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 21:17
> To: yak-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Vertical roll
>
>
> Mark,
> Excellent and exactly on !!
>
> The key to the vertical roll is the perfect zero G line. Not
> positive or negative. and wingtips even, as the plane slows more
> left rudder is needed and as the plane enters the first 1/4 loop
> gyroscopic force has to be countered. If the plane hits the perfect
> vertical line the roll is as simple of an aileron roll as possible.
> Rolling to the right is easier on the up and down line. The
> elevator controls load and the rudder controls yaw. If these are on
> there is no adverse yaw due to the roll.
>
> You can cheat a little to nail the vertical line by pulling with the
> right wing slightly low (right roll) now you correct on the way up
> with the left rudder. At zero airspeed almost all of the left foot
> is in and when you alternate and stand on the right rudder the pivot
> is amazingly sharp and fast !!
>
> The hint about the humpty below 50 knots is perfect - pumping the
> elevator provides enough airflow to complete the rotation at the top
> without a stall.
>
> To stall inverted the plane must start over on its back, then push
> the stick forward = inverted stall. If either foot is heavy on a
> rudder = inverted spin. If the power is on and outspin aileron is
> entered = inverted flat spin. So it takes some effort to put the
> Yak into an inverted flat spin. And to recover, power off and
> neutralize the controls - if you have enough altitude it will
> recover nose down.
>
> It is my understanding that besides a CG forward of the center of
> lift, minimal fuel load in the wings is critical. If either upright
> or inverted spin is allowed to fully develop into autorotation and
> the fuel load is such that inertia moves the mass of the plane
> outboard, there may not be enough rudder to recover.
>
> Fly Safe
> Herb
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2008, at 4:52 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
> MALS-14 64E wrote:
>
>> Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
>>
>> I'm curious... And this is kind of off the subject line. I infer
>> from what Brian said that the rudder control on a CJ is not all that
>> powerful. I do not know this, I have never flown a CJ in my life,
>> so I am not bad mouthing anything. However, I am curious how many
>> pilots here have worked with the elevator doing humpty-bumps on the
>> vertical line?
>>
>> As far as vertical rolls go, the real trick of these is to...
>> Well... To get VERTICAL in the first place. Step two is to learn
>> how to watch your wingtips and learn how to use your rudder to KEEP
>> the vertical line by comparing wingtip placement compared to the
>> horizon. A perfect vertical roll is something you kind of feel in
>> your butt when you get it really nailed. Sadly, doing rolls going
>> down is a totally different experience than doing them going up. A
>> lot of that has to do with where you end up focusing your eyes.
>>
>> Brian mentions maintaining enough airspeed that the rudder still
>> works in a CJ. Being the nit-picker that I am, in a true
>> hammerhead, you do not have enough airspeed for the rudder to work
>> at all, or the ailerons for that matter. What gives the rudder
>> control authority at all is the fact that the engine is creating air
>> flow past the rudder giving it enough control authority to commence
>> the hammerhead. A true hammerhead is a pivot on a point with very
>> little forward aircraft motion, and if done perfectly... About zero
>> forward energy. If you start a hammerhead too early with forward
>> speed, you will ARC through the turn and not pivot. Again, knowing
>> nothing about a CJ, I differ to people who have flown it to know
>> what is necessary to do what. That said, in most aerobatic aircraft
>> that I have flown, I practice zero airspeed recoveries on the
>> vertical line. Anyone that decides to attempt a vertical roll is
>> probably going to sooner or later run out of airspeed while still in
>> the vertical. Contrary to some belief, airplanes don't really like
>> to tail slide. If you get into the vertical and realize you have
>> run out of airspeed and ideas at about the same time, there are many
>> thoughts on how to recover, from letting go of everything, to many
>> other ways. My personal way is to try and force the hammerhead and
>> leave power on. However if you really are out of ideas and totally
>> unsure of what to do next, I would pull the power to idle and hold
>> it there. Neutralize everything and then just hang on for the
>> ride. In many cases, it is just fun to do that and see what happens
>> anyway. It is a great confidence builder to know that the airplane
>> will recover itself even after you have run out of great ideas. It
>> is life preserving to be damn sure your aircraft is within CG limits
>> before doing this by the way.
>>
>> On the same topic is a humpty-bump when you go up in a vertical line
>> and use elevator to more or less... Half loop it, right over the
>> top, and then head straight down again. The interesting thing here
>> is the speed that you can do this, which in many cases is much less
>> than you might imagine. There is a trick. You start this maneuver
>> on a vertical up line, and then pull into a half loop ending up
>> going straight down, hold the line, then recover. On the second
>> attempt, hold the vertical line a little longer... Lose more
>> airspeed, and continue as before. Do it again, even LESS airspeed.
>>
>> Sooner or later you will slow to the point that when you pull back
>> on the stick, you will feel it become loose in your hands... Which
>> at this point you have actually detached the air flow over the
>> surface of the elevator. Quickly push the stick forward again, and
>> then pull it back again ... Once more you will get some aircraft
>> movement and then it will stop as the stick comes loose in your
>> hands. Do this, in what looks like a rapid push forward, a pull
>> back, then a rapid push forward again... In a very fast kind of
>> pumping motion. What you are doing is pulling back to airflow
>> detachment, then pushing it forward to re-attach air flow and then
>> pulling back until it breaks flow again, and then repeating. This
>> can allow you to pull over the top of a vertical line and regain a
>> downward line at a much slower speed than you would have ever
>> believed possible. Sergei Boriak taught me this. It works.
>>
>> I usually limit my input to electrical stuff. I am not a really
>> great aerobatic pilot... But I hang out with some really good
>> ones! :-)
>>
>> Mark Bitterlich
>> N50YK
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
>> ] On Behalf Of Brian Lloyd
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 14:56
>> To: yak-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Yak-List: Vertical roll
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 12, 2008, at 6:37 AM, fougapilot wrote:
>>
>>> <fougapilot@hotmail.com>
>>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> I remember reading in an very very old copy of "Warbird Flyers" (the
>>> predecessor to RedAlert) about someone doing a vertical roll with a
>>> CJ.
>>>
>>> Does anyone here ever did one and would like to share their tips/
>>> techniques?
>>>
>>> I know, I know the Yak can do it...bla, bla, bla. I don't want to
>>> fuel
>>> the already heated who's better discussion, just looking for tips on
>>> how to fly MY airplane better. [Laughing]
>>
>> How many degrees of roll do you want? I think you would be very hard
>> pressed to reach 360 degrees of roll on an up-line before running
>> out of airspeed. I have done partial rolls (90 degrees and
>> occasionally 180 degrees) but one needs to maintain enough airspeed
>> that the rudder still works. With the CJ that is pretty tough.
>>
>> --
>> Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
>> brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
>> +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
>>
>> I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty
>> things . . .
>> - Antoine de Saint-Exupry
>>
>> PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
>> PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A
>> 1B6C
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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Hey Dan,
Back a few years ago in my first CJ with the 285, myself and a buddy
Peter Herzig, who was a competition acro dude with a Suk 26MX did verts
in the CJ. Like a lot of guys said, I don't think we did get a complete
360 but ended up with about a 270 before running out of steam. Entered
at 180K and 6G's and it works quite well, vertical line is a definite
key, level wings etc. We got supreme reprimand from father Lannon for
speed and stress, but I did keep doing them myself (outa site), then
tried a mild entry and fell off the top out of speed, pulled over
backwards and let the heavy end find its way down. Wasn't pretty at all
so I never relaxed that entry again. Have not yet done any in my M14P,
but it should do a lot better.
Fly Safe,
Paul Dumoret
Message 11
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| Subject: | Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication |
I'm certain by now you have talked to Mark and he has more eloquently said
what I'm about to say. Having gone through exactly this with the help of
Mark and Dennis it was sorted out. First thing to do is ohm out your fuses
in the power panel. Unfortunately on the 52, it is behind your seat! You
need to pull the fuses out of the circuit to check them otherwise all you
are going to do is ohm out your circuit. I found that it was my 30 amp fuse
that was between the main circuit between the BMP 200 and the carbon pile
regulator. Sorry for my generality but my 52 wiring diagram is at the
hanger.
Start with the simple, check your fuses. If you have a need for a spare BMP
200, I have one! :>)
Doc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bitterlich, Mark G
CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: Yak-List: Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication
MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich@navy.mil>
Contact me at 252-671-7005
Mark Bitterlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
scott.glaser@thedefiantcompany.com
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 17:33
Subject: Yak-List: Yak-52 Gen Fail Indication
High All,
I'm having trouble with a Gen Fail Indication on my '52. I was running
on the ground in the RPM ranges where the gen should have been on line
and the gen fail light was flickering. I shut down and checked with my
local guru who warned me of wire chaffing on the voltage regulator
damper plate. I did find a wire that was on it's way to being chaffed
but that didn't seem to be all the way through the sheath. I repaired
the wire, reconnected the voltage regulator and ran the engine. Much to
my dismay the gen fail light is now on all the time. I checked the
reset button on the voltage gadget box on the firewall above the voltage
regulator, it had not been tripped. I also opened he circuit box on the
right side behind the access panel and saw no smoking guns. Any help or
suggestions as to what could be the culprit would be greatly
appreciated!
Scott
N8252
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