Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:22 AM - Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution Today! (Matt Dralle)
1. 01:41 AM - Re: Panel upgrade (keithmckinley)
2. 06:36 AM - CJ Emerg bottle (Jim Shanks)
3. 07:12 AM - Re: CJ Emerg bottle (ronald wasson)
4. 09:44 AM - Re: sputtering on stop (doug sapp)
5. 09:51 AM - Re: CJ brake adjustment (doug sapp)
6. 09:52 AM - Re: CJ brake adjustment (cjpilot710@aol.com)
7. 10:11 AM - Re: Yak-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 11/09/08 (SD737@aol.com)
8. 10:16 AM - Yak List 52 Successor (Richard Goode)
9. 10:26 AM - Re: Re: Yak-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 11/09/08 (doug sapp)
10. 11:04 AM - Re: CJ Emerg bottle (hkgibby@yahoo.com)
11. 12:54 PM - Re: Loose Cylinders (doug sapp)
12. 02:15 PM - Re: Yak List 52 Successor (Bill1200)
13. 02:50 PM - Re: CJ brake adjustment (A. Dennis Savarese)
14. 03:10 PM - Re: CJ brake adjustment (Peter K. Van Staagen)
15. 03:25 PM - Re: CJ brake adjustment (doug sapp)
16. 03:36 PM - Re: CJ brake adjustment (Jon Boede)
17. 03:39 PM - Carb airbox (Jill Gernetzke)
18. 05:44 PM - Re: Air Leak (Mozam)
19. 06:02 PM - Thanks Doug Sapp (Mozam)
Message 0
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| Subject: | Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Panel upgrade |
Mike,
I've emailed you a couple times with no response. Contact me off line about the
gyro.
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700 HS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213289#213289
Message 2
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Due to a faulty PRV on my CJ that allowed some overpressure while
flying a long leg (55 ATM), I now need to bleed the emerg tank down a
bit. What's the easy way?
Thanks.
Jim Shanks
shankeroid@verizon.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Emerg bottle |
remove the right front cockpit side panel and crack loose a nut on the
emergency valve line and let it leak slowly.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: sputtering on stop |
Jon,
What is your shut down proceedure?
Doug
On Sun, Nov 9, 2008 at 8:56 PM, Jon Boede <jonboede@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have a 285 hp CJ that seems (as much as anyone can tell that sort of
> thing) to be running a little rough.
>
> Seems to cough a bit and turns backwards when it stops although that seems
> normal for a radial, but it seems to be doing it more than it was in the
> past.
>
> Adjusted all exhaust valves and compression check turns up 70+ on all
> cylinders cold, except #4 that gets about 50 (cold) and is scheduled for a
> good valve re-lapping.
>
> Wobble pump doesn't seem to do much in this Chang... could that have
> anything to do with things?
>
> Thanks,
> jon
>
> *
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: CJ brake adjustment |
Jon,
You most likley have a problem in your QS2 valve. Bladders can be checked
by submersion in water to check if it's leaking. I't not impossible that
you have a leaking bladder but If you did it would be the first one I have
seen. My money is on the hunch that you have a QS2 valve which needs to be
replaced or overhauled.
Please contact me off list if you need to order parts.
Always Yakin,
Doug
On Sun, Nov 9, 2008 at 8:54 PM, Jon Boede <jonboede@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have a CJ that doesn't like to turn left.
>
> Tested brake pressure at both left and right wheels = about 150 psi.
>
> Changed brake drums and that seemed to help. Was going to change brake
> pucks but in looking at the current ones, the new ones were exactly the same
> thickness.
>
> Is there an adjustment to make the brake grab better? Does this mean that
> the left bladder is going out? How does one check that?
>
> Thanks,
> jon
>
> *
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: CJ brake adjustment |
In a message dated 11/9/2008 11:55:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jonboede@hotmail.com writes:
jon,
You may have a bladder leaking.
Pappy
I have a CJ that doesn't like to turn left.
Tested brake pressure at both left and right wheels = about 150 psi.
Changed brake drums and that seemed to help. Was going to change brake
pucks but in looking at the current ones, the new ones were exactly the same
thickness.
Is there an adjustment to make the brake grab better? Does this mean that
the left bladder is going out? How does one check that?
Thanks,
jon
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List)
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other
Holiday needs. Search Now.
-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 11/09/08 |
I have seen two Yak-52 primer lines that leak ONLY when you prime the
engine. Like John mentioned, the leaks are ONLY visible when you pressurize the
primer line with a primer shot.
One leak resulted in the line spraying fuel and immediately resulted in a
small, quick flash fire upon that ignited from the generator that did no damage
other than cause alot of smoke. The primer line continued to burn like a
"TIki" torch for a few moments. Not good....
It's something you must check with another guy watching the primer line from
where it attaches to the firewall all the way along the line to the engine.
Fire in the hole!
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other
Holiday needs. Search Now.
-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Yak List 52 Successor |
Most pilots go directly onto the L-39 when first flying.
The Airforce is still using a number of Yak-52's, and I believe a few of
the 52M (big canopy; long range fuel; 3-blade prop; pilot extraction
systems) have been delivered of the hundred or so ordered.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340 120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340 129
www.russianaeros.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Yak-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 11/09/08 |
This item should be added to the RPA's annual "to do" list for both
aircraft.
Always Yakin,
Doug
On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 10:10 AM, <SD737@aol.com> wrote:
> I have seen two Yak-52 primer lines that leak ONLY when you prime the
> engine. Like John mentioned, the leaks are ONLY visible when you pressurize
> the primer line with a primer shot.
>
> One leak resulted in the line spraying fuel and immediately resulted in a
> small, quick flash fire upon that ignited from the generator that did no
> damage other than cause alot of smoke. The primer line continued to burn
> like a "TIki" torch for a few moments. Not good....
>
> It's something you must check with another guy watching the primer line
> from where it attaches to the firewall all the way along the line to the
> engine.
>
> Fire in the hole!
>
>
> ------------------------------
> AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday
> .
>
> *
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: CJ Emerg bottle |
SXMgNTUgQVRNIG91dCBvZiBsaW1pdHM/ICBTZWVtcyBpbiB0aGUgcmFuZ2UgdG8gbWUuLi53aHkg
bWVzcyB3aXRoIGl0Pw0KDQpIb290DQpDSi02DQpKYWNrc29udmlsbGUNClNlbnQgZnJvbSBteSBW
ZXJpem9uIFdpcmVsZXNzIEJsYWNrQmVycnkNCg0KLS0tLS1PcmlnaW5hbCBNZXNzYWdlLS0tLS0N
CkZyb206ICJKaW0gU2hhbmtzIiA8c2hhbmtlcm9pZEB2ZXJpem9uLm5ldD4NCg0KRGF0ZTogTW9u
LCAxMCBOb3YgMjAwOCAwODozMTo0OCANClRvOiBZYWsgTGlzdDx5YWstbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3Mu
Y29tPg0KU3ViamVjdDogWWFrLUxpc3Q6IENKIEVtZXJnIGJvdHRsZQ0KDQoNClRoaXMgaXMgYSBt
dWx0aS1wYXJ0IG1lc3NhZ2UgaW4gTUlNRSBmb3JtYXQuDQoNCg=
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Loose Cylinders |
Loose Studs:
Yes the studs are moving inside the nuts. The way to correct the problem is
to remove all the studs for that cly, send them out to be crack checked.
This is important because after the repair is done if a stud breaks it is a
bugger to get it out. After you are sure your studs are good, send them out
to have the threads copper plated on the bottom half of the stud only, (the
portion which screws into the case). This adds about a thousandths to the
dia and the copper is soft so it helps to secure the stud when it's
reinstalled. Clean the hole in the case extreamly well, using MEK or some
other serious solvent. Use a brush and screw it into the hole to clean out
the threads. Once clean, reinstall the stud useing red loctight and let it
sit at 72'F for 24 hours before you install and torque the cly.
I have the cyl base nut lock tabs,cyl seals and gaskets in stock if you need
them. Used studs only, no new studs in stock at this time.
Please contact me off list to order parts.
Always Yakin,
Doug
On Sun, Nov 9, 2008 at 3:20 AM, Craig Payne <cpayne@joimail.com> wrote:
> Loose cylinders occur on Huosai engines as well as the M-14 variety too.
> However, the root problem often turns out to be loose CYLINDER STUDS, not
> just nuts. They appear to "back out" while the nut looks intact with tab
> bent over correctly.
>
> The Chinese type are solid while the Russian type is semi-hollow. The fix
> I use on Huosai's is to install the Russian type. In a pinch, use Lock Tight
> on the Chinese studs after cleaning out the case threads with carb cleaner
> and drying the threads. Also be sure to install a new gasket and cylinder
> O-ring on the cylinder as well.
>
> Of course when the cylinder is off, it's then a good time to ..... well you
> know, it gets worse from there.
>
>
> Craig Payne
> cpayne@joimail.com
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Yak List 52 Successor |
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213371#213371
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: CJ brake adjustment |
Doug,
If he has equal pressure of 150 PSI on both sides, why would the brake
differential valve be the problem?
I'm wondering if a there was/is a bad rear grease seal on the drum which
allowed the grease from the rear bearing to be slung out over the brake
pucks. If that's the case and I have seen this before, the brake pucks
will not grab as well on the one side. Evidence of the grease would be
all over the backing plate behind the drum. Remove the pucks and clean
them in avgas. The avgas dries rapidly and leaves no oily film on the
pucks. Reinstall the pucks and lightly sand them with 60-80 grit
sandpaper. Reassemble the wheel assembly and try it out.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: doug sapp
To: yak-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ brake adjustment
Jon,
You most likley have a problem in your QS2 valve. Bladders can be
checked by submersion in water to check if it's leaking. I't not
impossible that you have a leaking bladder but If you did it would be
the first one I have seen. My money is on the hunch that you have a QS2
valve which needs to be replaced or overhauled.
Please contact me off list if you need to order parts.
Always Yakin,
Doug
On Sun, Nov 9, 2008 at 8:54 PM, Jon Boede <jonboede@hotmail.com>
wrote:
I have a CJ that doesn't like to turn left.
Tested brake pressure at both left and right wheels = about 150
psi.
Changed brake drums and that seemed to help. Was going to change
brake pucks but in looking at the current ones, the new ones were
exactly the same thickness.
Is there an adjustment to make the brake grab better? Does this
mean that the left bladder is going out? How does one check that?
Thanks,
jon
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 14
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| Subject: | CJ brake adjustment |
I had this same problem and it was exactly what Dennis described. I was
missing the inner felt grease seals and the pucks were contaminated.
Beware, the brakes will be awesome if this was your problem, so go easy on
the brake lever the first few flights or you'll be flat spotting tires.
Pete
__|__
__|__ ----=(*)=---- __|__
----=(*)=---- __|__ ----=(*)=----
----=(*)=----
From: owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ brake adjustment
Doug,
If he has equal pressure of 150 PSI on both sides, why would the brake
differential valve be the problem?
I'm wondering if a there was/is a bad rear grease seal on the drum which
allowed the grease from the rear bearing to be slung out over the brake
pucks. If that's the case and I have seen this before, the brake pucks will
not grab as well on the one side. Evidence of the grease would be all over
the backing plate behind the drum. Remove the pucks and clean them in
avgas. The avgas dries rapidly and leaves no oily film on the pucks.
Reinstall the pucks and lightly sand them with 60-80 grit sandpaper.
Reassemble the wheel assembly and try it out.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: doug sapp <mailto:dougsappllc@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ brake adjustment
Jon,
You most likley have a problem in your QS2 valve. Bladders can be checked
by submersion in water to check if it's leaking. I't not impossible that
you have a leaking bladder but If you did it would be the first one I have
seen. My money is on the hunch that you have a QS2 valve which needs to be
replaced or overhauled.
Please contact me off list if you need to order parts.
Always Yakin,
Doug
On Sun, Nov 9, 2008 at 8:54 PM, Jon Boede <jonboede@hotmail.com> wrote:
I have a CJ that doesn't like to turn left.
Tested brake pressure at both left and right wheels = about 150 psi.
Changed brake drums and that seemed to help. Was going to change brake
pucks but in looking at the current ones, the new ones were exactly the same
thickness.
Is there an adjustment to make the brake grab better? Does this mean that
the left bladder is going out? How does one check that?
Thanks,
jon
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?Yak-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: CJ brake adjustment |
Sometimes the QS2-09 rubber seal will devolop a problem and become
intermitant. But you do have a point and this bad grease seal (or lack of)
should be checked out. Back in the days before I had these seals in
constant stock many guys either went without or made their own.
Doug
On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 2:49 PM, A. Dennis Savarese <
dsavarese0812@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Doug,
> If he has equal pressure of 150 PSI on both sides, why would the brake
> differential valve be the problem?
>
> I'm wondering if a there was/is a bad rear grease seal on the drum which
> allowed the grease from the rear bearing to be slung out over the brake
> pucks. If that's the case and I have seen this before, the brake pucks will
> not grab as well on the one side. Evidence of the grease would be all over
> the backing plate behind the drum. Remove the pucks and clean them in
> avgas. The avgas dries rapidly and leaves no oily film on the pucks.
> Reinstall the pucks and lightly sand them with 60-80 grit sandpaper.
> Reassemble the wheel assembly and try it out.
> Dennis
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* doug sapp <dougsappllc@gmail.com>
> *To:* yak-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, November 10, 2008 11:50 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Yak-List: CJ brake adjustment
>
> Jon,
> You most likley have a problem in your QS2 valve. Bladders can be checked
> by submersion in water to check if it's leaking. I't not impossible that
> you have a leaking bladder but If you did it would be the first one I have
> seen. My money is on the hunch that you have a QS2 valve which needs to be
> replaced or overhauled.
>
> Please contact me off list if you need to order parts.
>
> Always Yakin,
> Doug
>
> On Sun, Nov 9, 2008 at 8:54 PM, Jon Boede <jonboede@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a CJ that doesn't like to turn left.
>>
>> Tested brake pressure at both left and right wheels = about 150 psi.
>>
>> Changed brake drums and that seemed to help. Was going to change brake
>> pucks but in looking at the current ones, the new ones were exactly the same
>> thickness.
>>
>> Is there an adjustment to make the brake grab better? Does this mean that
>> the left bladder is going out? How does one check that?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> jon
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Always Yakin,
> Doug Sapp
> Phone 509-826-4610
> Fax 509-826-3644
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *
>
>
--
Always Yakin,
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 16
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| Subject: | CJ brake adjustment |
I changed out the felt seals when I changed the drums. Didn't change the p
ucks. I suppose what we'll do is change the pucks and dump all the old puc
ks in a bucket of #1 aviation solvent (that's 100LL for those in Rio Linda)
and see if that fixes things.
Anybody have a brake bladder they'd like to sell? Doug is out of stock rig
ht now.
Jon
From: dougsappllc@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ brake adjustment
Sometimes the QS2-09 rubber seal will devolop a problem and become intermit
ant. But you do have a point and this bad grease seal (or lack of) should
be checked out. Back in the days before I had these seals in constant sto
ck many guys either went without or made their own.
Doug
On Mon=2C Nov 10=2C 2008 at 2:49 PM=2C A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812@be
llsouth.net> wrote:
Doug=2C
If he has equal pressure of 150 PSI on both sides=2C why would the brake di
fferential valve be the problem?
I'm wondering if a there was/is a bad rear grease seal on the drum which al
lowed the grease from the rear bearing to be slung out over the brake pucks
. If that's the case and I have seen this before=2C the brake pucks will n
ot grab as well on the one side. Evidence of the grease would be all over
the backing plate behind the drum. Remove the pucks and clean them in avga
s. The avgas dries rapidly and leaves no oily film on the pucks. Reinsta
ll the pucks and lightly sand them with 60-80 grit sandpaper. Reassemble t
he wheel assembly and try it out.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: doug sapp
Sent: Monday=2C November 10=2C 2008 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: Yak-List: CJ brake adjustment
Jon=2C
You most likley have a problem in your QS2 valve. Bladders can be checked
by submersion in water to check if it's leaking. I't not impossible that y
ou have a leaking bladder but If you did it would be the first one I have s
een. My money is on the hunch that you have a QS2 valve which needs to be
replaced or overhauled.
Please contact me off list if you need to order parts.
Always Yakin=2C
Doug
On Sun=2C Nov 9=2C 2008 at 8:54 PM=2C Jon Boede <jonboede@hotmail.com> wrot
e:
I have a CJ that doesn't like to turn left.
Tested brake pressure at both left and right wheels = about 150 psi.
Changed brake drums and that seemed to help. Was going to change brake puc
ks but in looking at the current ones=2C the new ones were exactly the same
thickness.
Is there an adjustment to make the brake grab better? Does this mean that
the left bladder is going out? How does one check that?
Thanks=2C
jon
--
Always Yakin=2C
Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
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Doug Sapp
Phone 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
Message 17
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Group,
I am looking for a carburetor airbox for a Yak 52. Contact me offlist.
Thank you.
Jill Gernetzke
M-14P, Incorporated
4905 Flightline Drive
Kingman, AZ 86401 -7417
(928)-681-4400
Fax(928)681-4404
www.m-14p.com
Message 18
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OK guys,
Here's the follow up I promised.
My problem was the air leaking out entirely overnight. But, my compressor had
no problem pumping the system up to 5.5 as I flew it. The only leak I could find
was out the vent holes in the pop-off valve.
I replaced the piston in the pop-off valve (it had lasted 700 hours) with one Cliff
Coy sent me, which matched the original one exactly. I *think* the one Cliff
sent me was not new. I suspect Cliff told me it wasn't *new*, but I missed
that part. I only heard what I wanted to hear...know what I mean?
Then I tried another "new" piston I bought from Doug Sapp. It was very different
from the original (smaller height and diameter) and leaked like a sieve. I
think it was a CJ piston. Doug probably assumed I had a CJ.
So, I thought maybe the spring was weakened.
Finally, I replaced both the spring and piston with new parts from Jill at M-14P.
Worked perfect.
Don't know if it was a bad piston or spring, but since both together are less than
$100, I suggest replacing both if your leak is out the pop-off valve vent
holes..
Cheers,
Steve Dalton
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213414#213414
Message 19
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| Subject: | Thanks Doug Sapp |
Fellow Yaksters/CJ'ers
Earlier in the year, the section of my exhaust containing the heat shroud for cabin
heat had failed internally. I was breathing LOTS of straight CO from the
exhaust. This pipe section had to be removed from the aircraft to find this
CO leak (burned out internal pipe).
I purchased a replacement section from Doug Sapp. However, when I tried to install
it I found it had a Housai exhaust connection nut. So, I had to send it
back to Doug. Doug did a super job of replacing the Housai nut with one for an
M-14P and DID NOT CHARGE ME for fixing this.
Today, I used the cabin heat for the first time and just wanted to thank Doug.
Thanks Doug, it was nice to have non-CO heat again!!
-Steve Dalton
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213415#213415
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